vRSAnt

Used the plasti filler to smooth out ( yet to sand down )

Dogbone mount? Suspension? (less movement when loaded) I got 13.8s quarter one time I was convinced to go down to the pod and that was a first try, novice not even trying, nothing removed from the car and with std suspension etc on that attempt. That matched almost a mate with a VXR6.2L so it couldn't be that bad to launch!

Its only very occasionally intermittently showing on this L+K so hardly a priority but great info sharing on the problem, I will go down this route with ordering + video if it becomes more glitchy.

Its a non concern from what I've seen Got this on the L+K myself There is a fix kit you can apply Its not a break thing, just an annoyance pretty sure ? As it doesn't cause any change of gear or anything. My scan was B116229 - Selector lever park position lock switch implausible signal Intermittent Some nice Irish dude talks through the entire fix https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iwLVR5WvWfk

£7.50 collected bargain https://www.toolstation.com/big-boy-plastic-flexi-filler/p31685

I got to this horrible bump (original below) Improved shape/ pushed out a lot a little earlier in the week with some prodding - but still seems to have some distortion given the big crease whatever it was did to it, I think it was stretched too much so can't be perfect. This was the worse damage on the car. Still, its too good a bumper to waste say £200+ on a breaker part or pattern I initially slapped a bit of rough paint just to cover, however I think I need to get some flexible bumper filler then sand to get 100% shape back before paint, yet to decide which product there are so many to choose from...3m, isopon, upol

Ah you should have probably posted your own new question then, I as the original OP posted my own point here about upgrading the firmware of a specific HU If this is something OT then probably best to take it OT to a new thread ;)

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You need to establish exactly which model HU you have and version/ long click the MENU for about 10S and go to the details for software versions. They are very specific updates. Its possible you may be mismatching with the one here. Funnily enough I've just been checking my 2nd Octavia mk3 and it has the same EXACT part number and stereo as here so I will be repeating this update on this one as that is stock on 435 ! Since he long went on about the L+K being "top of the range" upmarket from my vRS etc ( or that is how it was sold him) quelle surprise - exact same stereo lol. Thought it might have been a columbus or MIB2 but nope, its the same. I offered to check and update for my dad originally but he wasn't bothered and here we are, now I have to think about repeating this myself ! Found I still have a copy of this on my desktop

In my honest opinion for coding I would bite the bullet and get full proper VCDS ( no cheap copy virus china edition ) and just determine how many license you need for it. I think OBD11 is alienating people with its insistence of yearly annual which isn't exactly low, if you can imagine needing for a few years I think it may pay for itself in hobby coding - or pro if you start helping others Its a different platform with OBD pushing more to mobile BT users vs laptop/usb admittedly but VCDS was always the daddy.

12V sounds low from your smart charger though, are you sure the new battery isn't borked? My new one was over 12.5V and I think on charge was North of that around 13V

Ah I didn't read properly sorry, so its a good battery that if conditioning should reach over 12.5V? Lidl do cheap ones which is where I got mine from. Ah the recoding - Sorry you will need PRO (or be inventive in looking for an APK at own risk) to find a way to do that, maybe a VCDS member local to you might help ?

Also "coolant level dropped 20%." This would also bother me a little, in my history you are either talking coolant loss, thermostat failure ( its stuck shut and boiling off the coolant) or HGF ( sometimes can result in a direct external leak from head - like I had with one of my non Skoda cars with a weak design elastomer gasket and was replaced with triple metal - or it might be directly mixing the oil and coolant through breakdown of the gasket material which should be obvious, after running will be signs of mayo such as on the dipstick )

step 1 replace the battery if you haven't conditioned it to a min 12.2v 12v sounds low. Battery is a critical part of any car, if you can't condition it to usable then replace. Not withstanding there is still possible other issues though like alternator but at least you are starting from known good. Once replaced - scan and clear all errors, you can use the non pro version of ODBEleven or similar interfaces to do this. I'm talking from recent first hand experience as I had a multitude of errors caused on a low battery car gifted to me but had been standing. I also found some errors seemed sticky but driving this car (DSG) seemed to resolve most of them. I have found some intermittent ones but that seems quite common for any old cars and can be a case of trying to resolve them one by one. e.g. B116229 - Selector lever park position lock switch implausible signal Intermittent Quick google / you tube video for this indicates an upgrade bit of wiring. Its just something I've seen quite sporadically show up not all the time and must be a well known fault. It doesn't mean it needs any immediate attention and can still drive the car in the meanwhile.

Alright here we go: Stage 1 AFTER The bonnet is still a problem but I didn't get a very good colour mix I think or have to accept spray but its a very small area of damage, no idea what he hit but it dimpled it in slightly ! Always room to try, try, try again.... The right side is beginning to polish in, still some work on the rear door scratch but note, its only first attempt an hour spent outside on polishing and most of it wasn't that most obvious scratch left. Admittedly the rear bumper is far too big an area to acceptably brush in, maybe the inokraft gravity electric spray will be out soon to test! Will be great for DIY'ers !!!

Could wait for release of these ! In for the long game :D https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mi-VdWCe6-g Looks handy Its really that rear arch that I'm least confident of making invisible repair, the rest is just how much time I'm prepared to throw at it. I've literally repaired mong-based vandalism on my black octavia so I'm a bit of an old hand at fixing scratches more easily.

Yeah might have to relinquish to that in some places I think you are right, already invested in a pot of paint rather that touch up stuck so could potentially also get compressor, spray kit and thinners and maybe have a go I had a go today and polishing/cutting down what he'd done and clear far too much paint was previously slap dashed on to hide the damage ( ok but not carefully) although in the case of the bumper looked like it had gone down to the plastics so this would need more paint and be hard to blend in like a scratch, admittedly. I've gone over it again (more subtly/carefully) though and see what I can do in regard to blending down the more scratch like marks though but leaving that to harden before I cut that in. I've had positive results blending out vandalism like this before so I'm optimistic about the scratches but less so the bumper and I might be worth looking into compressor kit and see if I can work that out myself ? I've painted via aerosol based but mixed results, the colour match and blending can suffer and will be even more difficult with this being metal.

Maybe just 1 of 25 according to H.M.L ! https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/vehicle/skoda_octavia_laurin_&_klement_tsi

This is pre repair condition so as I attack it I'm hoping can compare the pics before and after and so its proven to be worthwhile ^^^

I've mostly polished out the left side which is nearer to mint condition now. This rear bumper ding could be interesting to deal with

Not sure if I might contemplate selling this at a later date ( what is it worth I'm thinking when closer to mint at least £8K right>), but for now at least offers me one means to travel around when I get around to doing my vRS clutch which I'm loathed to use for now as it feels like its more urgent for replacement Under dads ownership he claimed this car is perfect but its not mint mint unfortunately his rose tints must have been on (buts its a decent spec with very low miles for year I mentioned elsewhere < 20k and very grateful for the car) Worth targetting improvement of these areas which I hope to get them looking pretty seamlessly as perfect as I can with my own hands before looking into any costs ? Already spent a couple hours tidying up the wheels as seen, they aren't mint but touching in the diamond cut rash with a little paint for now. Maybe useful to use this for comparison for improvement - maybe this hobby may become my retirement income lol

Clutch release, naturally already have one ( I think it was Sachs part, sitting waiting to be fitted when I get around to it). I wasn't aware of the spigot and grateful for your feedback thanks so much. I see advice now recommending that also is switched ( via google AI) Cost is pence, will need to read into how to remove though

Prepping to do 2.0TSi clutch in future - plenty of time and opportunity as I mentioned recently I have a 1.8T L&K Octy also ! I'd seen a comment at some point someone recommending to change rear main seal whilst you are in there. Something to watch for? Also as below

Wow, do you feel the Fabia is kind of the bruiser? I did. Or more connected with it like you feel faster or want to go faster? That was the case for me when I had mine. The 280 must be pretty capable but if its like my (Octy 2T) vRS its kind of a sterile fast, I usually don't drive that quickly (or as fast as it could be :D) These cars are just too fast actually and sort of disconnected.

I did have a garaged queen Fisher Fury with a bike engine for a while but it was a bit too untame for my liking, fair build quality by last guy but I just didn't have the patience for it. Bad time to track day but went out on Nov and slipped off track twice ( it was wet) and had trouble getting back on with clutch lol. Not long after that decided it was a bit rough and raucious. Done bikes too obviously, not now though. I see where you are at with that Baxlin, you really feel with that regardless of progress. We also have a convertible low mileage MG he gave me too which gives you more of a connected motoring feel but no where near as fast as both as these ( actually to 60 about same for the 1.8T ). From rolling the MG feels kind of slow though you have to really wind that up despite its lowish weight.