vRSAnt

Hi I think I need a driveshaft puller / pusher as I'm looking to easily remove them. Currently not drifting out easily with light force hence I'm thinking they are better being pressed out more easily with a tool. Any recommendations on such a tool ? Sealey Ak713 is one, or Draper 78588 cheaper version? Principle is very similar to brake backing tool which I have, I just don't have thick metal sheet to go between the 2 wheel studs that would allow it to sit inbetween otherwise would do exactly the same job I think!

Did some light work today but wasn't rushing to complete ( already have all the battery and support stuff out the way ) Nice day for it tho Unscrewed and Removed the GB pendulum mount Drained gearbox oil I got the cables off the gearbox selector, Removed the driveshaft nuts and ones to control arms, but they don't seem to come out easily so may need to press them out. Then should just be all the bolts around the gearbox and accessories around to drop it.

Thanks. Only a tiny bit of progress after work, spent a little time looking at the ECU Got frustrated by inability to shift the cables release to it so have found it possible to just push the battery tray out the way for now to work on the the bolts underneath thankfully. Huge lol at this. On that K-AW YT video looks like at some point (12:50) the ECU appears to magically disappears lol, and I thought this was needed to move the battery tray out. Stoopid me! I think it was just a change of angle of the camera lol. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QYZ7UcSIbo Also not sure why VW specifically have a mount for the GB ? As per the K-AW video (10:04) he is happily just using a meaty jack with some kind of extention/rubber block - I suppose a block of wood could be used although may not have the stability of a proper support. You can apparently get transmissions adapters, not sure the benefit but whatever. Can probably end up cobbling something up like I did for my "backup 2nd axle stand location" which is under the oem bellshaped supports with removeable grommets, I'm just using some small slats of wood with champagne corks lol instead of "VAG Jacking Point Insert Powerflex https://www.powerflex.co.uk › product-details › VAG+Ja... A 95A durometer polyurethane bung that presses up into the vacant hole in the chassis providing a fit and forget solution for safer lifting." Also noting application of red rubber grease for this job. Good I got plenty, but have to apply sparingly and where applicable only. Following the above video I made an index to go with it, which helps explain exactly what Kevin-Albert Williams is doing Useful:- clutch alignment tool https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9heclvh79I 1:25 GB pendulum mount off X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P59 2:00 gearoil drained then bolt replaced X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P58 8.2 Draining and filling gearbox oil On P82 3:25 Arch liner removal 4:40-7:00 driveshafts X-ref "Axles Steering.pdf": 40 – Front suspension (7.2 Removing and installing drive shaft) On P52 7:40 cable mount X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P57 9:00 removing gearbox bolts -Unscrew engine/gearbox connecting bolt -arrow- in area of right-hand drive shaft seal. X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P57 -Remove lower engine/gearbox connecting bolts X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P61 10:12 jack to support GB up 10:20-13:00 battery and support removed and undertray moved 13:23-15:50 gear selector cables and levers X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P57 16:00 GB jacked and removing top mounting bolt "Remove hexagon bolt -arrow- for left-hand hand assembly mounting from gearbox mounting" X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P60 16:34 (Obstructing electrical connector removed) 17:12 Securing bolts for gearbox bracket -A- must be accessible: Remove gearbox bracket -A-. X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P60 17:28-20:00 Starter motor removal "Remove upper engine/gearbox connecting bolts -arrows-" X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P57 20:05 Remove slave cylinder -arrows-, lay to side and secure. Donot disconnect pipes. X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P57 20:14 Remove plug X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P59 20:28-21:41 Further bolts removed X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P61 21:41-22:20 Wrestling out GB! 22:35 Clutch removed and flywheel surface cleaned, then reassembled with release bearing X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 30 Clutch (2.1 Assembly overview - clutch/2.2 Removing and installing clutch) On P32,1.15 Assembly overview - clutch release mechanism on P29 Refitting is reverse of removal ? :D

Read somethiing about using polo 200mm clutch to upgrade, anyone heard about that ? Would that mean this one? LuK BR 0222 620 3322 00 Clutch kit https://www.autodoc.co.uk/luk/7623700

Credit to that Kevin Williams guy, although it doesn't have any specific nuances of the manual which I can now see it does give a good overview which should give confidence to anyone whose never tackled a clutch job before ( like me). Done plenty of engines, brakes and other work though

Alright I now found 2011-2018_SKODA_Citigo_SM/Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf which should help compliment the procedure.

This is why I'm tackling myself. Then you can do it again having learnt. Ouch Big job for such a small car though https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QYZ7UcSIbo

My wifes citigo ( 18 plate) is currently up in the air, fully raised to start doing clutch and just wondered does anyone have any tips or caveats I should know about or point me to any guides? Backstory to this is she is ill herself with C currently working through Chem treatment about half way, not returning to work yet anyway so in theory I have 3 months to do it but actually prob going to get it done now I started. Sadly she lost both parents to the same just last year and was actually trying to reach one of them in the car before they shortly passed away in hospital but following tyre puncture the clutch was damaged in an effort to get the car somewhere safe. In the morning cold around xmas last year I waited with the car for recovery for 4 hours or so and finally got it back to our drive. That was fun. Very burnt smelling so I guess that was clutch burnt out. I'm only just getting around to it now as its got a bit nicer to work. I've seen Up video (the Kevin Williams one) so feel that is enough to be pretty well prepared but its just a video so nothing in writing and just wonder if I need to know anything else I would make more of a effort to start today but I'm in no rush and got dragged out to do some essential shopping, so all I have done is just make sure its robustly supported in the air ready, nearside arch liner removed, along with battery. Considering the aging halfords hydraulic jack I had was questionable after it ****ed out fluid last year but I managed to recondition it and it managed to safely raise the car (whilst still having both wheels attached) to the highest stand position for them to sit under the jacking points, I'm pretty flush with that result even if its not much. Plan to get aligment tool and actual clutch once I have the parts to compare and see what I can see. If anyones done this any has any words of guidance also I'm very grateful.

Thank you ! Sorry, totally my mistake I was confusing by looking at 2 different types of left over/ unused oils as I also have to do a job on the MFG VVC and that has some leftover 10w40 It is indeed the 5w40 502 stuff and perfectly ok for fixed services ! So I can use on either. Old age conundrum. Stupid thing is I got 2x these earlier ( and used some clearly, probably on her citigo which is why I have 1L+ left). The only question really I guess which car is best to use on - should I use the Quantum on my vRS and the cheapest whatever I can get for her citigo. e.g. I can get PETRONAS Syntium 3000 E 5W-40 Fully Synthetic Car Engine Oil 5 Litres for £23, I'm guessing this will be inferior to the Quantum but is still a pretty decent oil

I have 5L + some more of unused Quantum Platinum, think it is the 10w40 stuff I believe....for regular service, for my vrs is only 4k miles approx I'm pending service my wifes citigo 1.0 and this my petrol 2014 vRS Would you use the Quantum in my car or hers...if not quantum i'd be getting petronas or fuchs or something otherwise in 5w40 for my vRS

I had identical problem but managed to find this thread and opened it up ( for 2nd time but this time using this had confidence to tackle the motor part / shroud itself). All sorted. Seems a bit of a rubbish design IMHO, why send water through a motor moving part 🤷‍♂️ Simply not very clever

That's nice offer of you thanks. Will do

I was looking into this and noting not long ago fitted canbus enabled towbar module ( for my O3) and also fitted cruise on my fabia vrs - so I'd imagine I'm well competent enough with the right guidance instructions at least..... This Citigo is the model with the mobile stand not navs (2017) and I'm a little unclear if a specific model required but I did see something suggesting all from 2012 up to the e model which this is not. I'm wondering if installation is common and follows this guide for the UP although I'm not certain about that. (part I have seen suggested = 1S0054630 with 1S0919475 control module) ? https://www.upownersclub.co.uk/threads/fitting-original-retrofit-parking-sensors.11263/ Also If going to the effort it would be really cool to have the proper enabled beep lines show up on the ( still standard) radio also though, less keen on aftermarket. Anyone know if it works? I wonder if it matter if you have the Navigon/Garmin or none like this car I originally bought which takes mobile bracket/charging and apps instead. Thanks

Towbar working. not fully tested but get lights and brake lights so its module is def working. ODB11 seems to have enabled ok. The 2013 continued to throw some "ODB11" coding oddities also though. on the car electrics module 1 or whatever, had to search for the byte was different from 1, about 5 or so down German for towbar is "Anhängerkupplung" so long coding word starts like that in one of the modules......I think maybe vcds may have been easier/ better translation lol here is my addendum / review for 2013 cars on video if useful to others: another just talking about BCM Another zooming into the exact wiring useful other videos from others https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2truGm1lL_Y

Towbar working. not fully tested but get lights and brake lights so its module is def working. ODB11 seems to have enabled ok. The 2013 continued to throw some "ODB11" coding oddities also though. on the car electrics module 1 or whatever, had to search for the byte was different from 1, about 5 or so down German for towbar is "Anhängerkupplung" so long coding word starts like that in one of the modules......I think maybe vcds may have been easier/ better translation lol here is my addendum / review for 2013 cars on video if useful to others: another just talking about BCM Another zooming into the exact wiring

Actually its easish to drop the exhaust back box but needs a bit of fairy....also the shield retainer with stupid plastic locks, just push them out the way and try and spin it down with pliers or driver. Just after all the hassle on the electric side was hoping it would be easier I can see the back slot clearly through one on one side now - all good.

I have my car apart already for towbar and thinking I could route kit through for installation at the same time taking the low route for install! Anyone got an old camera for an old car ( 91mm handle) to hand as oem style wiring ideally ? or maybe someone sell on ebay with fast despatch ?

Petrol so both sides fun on the rear holes I can get through underbody ok thanks that is fine, its just getting access to those rear ones....given up for today will be for the rest of the weekend to finish it off, nearly there, plastics off for the bumper cut. (There are SOME holes right at the back, but this towbar isn't long enough to reach them so yeah, succumbing to exhaust fun I guess) Not sure how the heat shield can be dropped itself, it has some rubbish metal grommet things but also some extra plastic steps preventing that moving Not sure the best leverage to get the back boxes off rubber hanger itself too probably comes to brute force I've given up with for now, presume I could lubricate the rubber hangar itself in fairy or something and try and push it off the mount/exhaust might work

BCM was sorted. Going at this slowly like a 50 year old. Oh well, I'm nearly 50 perhaps is why. I have the plastic bumper off after lights ( came off carefully/easy) but for superficially the 2 bolts at front for the towbar fitting because unlike the instructions more delay - the bloody exhaust and heatshielding is in the way ?? May have to drop the silencers out the way so that's fun.

Those 3 wires just snapped in the right place now I just have to do the BCM and the actual towbar fitting and cable routing but hopefully now thats the less critical part for me.

All sorted, a 2013/2014 car confusion lol. In case anyone is ever wondering, the 2013 car ( up to around June) dont need the extra fuse harness but the 2014 cars do..... They appear to have a totally different fusebox layout....I find reading these "instructions" difficult at best, what happened to written instruction..... On my car ( for 13 socket lectrics) you need F28, 38 and 44 and pair the loom DIRECT. DO NOT follow OCTAVIA-MK3-REMOVABLE-TOWBAR-FITTING-IMG-v1.0.pdf as this is seemingly for 2014 fuseboxes I was kind of getting in limbo between the guides and following that and should have stopped and focussed on original guide from scratch. This explains the differences better, you don't pair them into the fusebox which is the mistake I made and now have to remove them lol. I couldn't plug in those other wires as they are really meant for D122 / J126 for later 2014 on cars. I think the 3 tails I plugged into the fusebox extra, probably fit easily into the 2013 fusebox. Many thanks to Dezmonde who refused any repartiation for his time, though I felt so glad to be helped I would have happily done so.

Thank you so much. They are just so tight, they are not push fit or even with force down with a screwdriver Its the pre-cabled extra fuse holder (6r0937530A) Its the bit where you Clip snap tail wires into additional fuse box rear....they just are so tight they don't want to push in ! I got one about 3/4 down and just not fully seating. and the other only just in or half way so I got it back out again before trying to force any further.

help urgently please, can't get westfalia pinout cables piggy back slotted into back of fusebox They are tight as hell to push in and won't just push in even, wondering if they actually have something needing removing from them or ideally a special tool to push them firmly in from rear. They do seem to be caged in a surround but presuming this ( with springs) is part of the fitting. Also I don't have existing fuses at F28 and F38, should there be fuses in front of the fusebox as well as in the accessory fusebox ? It only came with 3 fuses already in the accessory one. I will donate £10 in beer funds to anyone who can give me successful advice please, otherwise I'm seeking an auto electrician to complete it annoyingly ! Still got the BCM to do yet also ! This sucks, it went reasonably well to this point, mousing the cables and plastics removed carefully etc.

Just received some nice wiring through the post and looking to do this job soon. Hi I'm looking to do this towbar wiring having acquired the plug in kit, will need VCDScoding after I do the wiring, wonder if anyone can help with the VCDS (and maybe a little wiring help / second opinion )? Got my head around most of it, some minor questions. I think I can work out the answers: ( Electric extension kit I think is mentioned as 300 029 300 113, this is presumably where a super bulky white connector block with 2 wires coloured YW and BR/WH thick wires are (some 12" before the termination for the main control unit). Couldn't work out what that is for so must be superfluous/ specific to that it doesn't seem to be mentioned elsewhere) Its this Westfalia kit for non tow prepped, which is because my car is an earlier 2014 ( regd about April 2014 apparently) and not tow reading, I saw the wiring for at least half price for Westfalia Kit. Got a tow trust bar for a fair price not so keen to fit the PCT ZR2500 relay it came with, which would have needed wiring to the car side anyway missing. A bit funny about cutting the wires so I managed to get the westfalia dedicated wiring. https://www.pfjones.co.uk/westfalia_fitting/305406300113.pdf Happy to make some agreement of cash someones way of course too !

Thanks all. I have PCT2500 relay already so its an option ? Will get the balance of opinions - have reached out to Sasha too. I do hope to buy a trailer on the sooner than later, its for a lightweight race car build to have it checked out by some pros and completion works - in case anyone interested see the pic ! Cost me originally 2 grand, and a lot of messing about with it since 2020 at home..... when towed the car is light should only be 400kg the car itself and I'd be delicately driving it about...... I guess even if I did do the devils scotchlocks then the likelihood of heavens falling I suppose is minimal for just going and picking up a trailer as a one off ? As mentioned I did just want to get the westfalia detachable and would have had them just coded tbh, but as they were literally unavailable from all sources this was the next best towbar for now and I'm open.