PrawnStar

I just went from a 66 plate 220tsi sportline to a 69 plate l&k 4x4 tsi. I prefer the black bits from the sportline, but I have to say the l&k is much more refined on the road. My thoughts are that the DCC makes a world of difference, particularly on the tiny bits of road between the potholes that Edinburgh City council kindly provide us. 😉 The "sport" setting feels less harsh than the factory suspension on the sportline (and nothing like as firm as an Audi S3 with DCC). Night and day compared to my first '52 plate v6 tdi as I fondly remember 😁

My 02 V6 diesel usually runs about 150-200 worth of repairs each MOT. Suspension arms, track rod ends, that sort of stuff. That said, the steering rack needed to be replaced once, and that wasn't cheap, but that wasn't at MOT time - it was just when we were buying our house. :( Overall I've no real complaints, it's no more expensive in repairs than my previous passats. It does have a tendancy to eat tyres mind you, perhaps something to do with heavy right foot driving.

I think the best advice (as I read here before I'm sure) is to order a new lock from the dealers (or a scrappy if you trust 'em) and take a large chisel and hammer to the lock from inside the door. I had the same problem on a rear door before - and that was a real pig to get the trim off

There is no need to destroy the door card, but it is really awkward to get into some of the screws - the lower ones can be removed after lifting the front edge of the rear seat. It might be easier to gain if you remove the front seat, but this will probably bring up faults due to the airbag being detached. In any case, be careful with the wiring on the door electrics/speakers etc - the cables are quite short. Once you've got the door card off you will need to undo the plastic retaining pin that holds the window in place - there is a large black rubber grommit that you can open (or just take out) - lower the window to it's lowest position in order to see the retaining clip and use a punch and a mallet/hammer to hit the center pin through. If you lift the window a fraction then it won't hit the side impact reinforcing bar that you want to be kept straight in order to re-fit (kinda fiddly). Once you have both parts of the pin/clip removed, lift the window to the top and tape it in place using a few strips of insulating tape or similar. Once you are sure the window won't drop, lower the mechanism. At this point you might want to disconnect the battery. Then you will need to start detaching the wiring loom and other door hardware (the door lock has a supporting bracket held in place by two plastic pins - again, just punch these through) from the metal door panel, and remove the bolts that secure it to the door. There is a rubber seal between the panel and the door which tends to keep the panel fairly well secured even with the bolts out - gently prise it all around to release it. Once it has been released you should be able to lift the panel up slightly and then out (again, the seat is going to get in the way, but you should manage to get it out with some patience). Once the door panel is out of the way all you need to do is remove wires/cables from and attack the door lock until it unlocks - it took me a few smacks with a 4" bolster chisel and 2lb mash hammer In any case, you should now be able to open the door using the external handle - a good excuse to stretch your legs and grab a coffee/tea/whatever. Recover the pins that you popped out into the inner door (it's a bit yucky in there) along with the smashed bits of the lock. In order to remove the lock you'll need to detach the cable from the door handle - pull the door handle out gently and take a note of the position of the cable in the handle before popping it out (it can be adjusted with patience if you forget - but if it's too tight on refitting you can't open the door again as it doesn't properly close, too slack and it won't open). then just remove the screws that secure the lock to the door. Refitting is just a reversal or removal, but a bit easier as you can open the door. and actually see things. I would suggest that you purchase the new lock before you start, along with a couple of new pins/dowels for the window/lock just in case. It'll probably cost around £100 in parts from the dealer, and should take you an hour or two to complete. One caveat is that you might have problems securing the window pin/dowel if there is a lot of clearance between the window rail and the side impact bar - I used mole grips to bend it out slightly. Good luck!