skodacarman

Something like this http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/207654-tts-short-shifter/

I seem to recall that there's a kit for converting the gear linkages to a 'short throw' type that speeds up the changes. Try a 'Google'.

The stick-to-box gear linkages are worked by Bowden cable and cranks. Cable can stretch over times and may drop out of adjustment. Never adjusted them myself, but suggest you get hold of the Haynes manual (no. 5549) and go from there. Looks a bit fiddly, but only rates '2 spanners' out of a possible 5 for difficulty.

If the under tray hasn't come off in a while due to suction-type oil changes, be prepared to mash up the screws holding the tray on, and have some spares handy.

Congrats on getting a 1.9 PD. Lovely motor. Usual symptoms of low/worn gearbox oil are notchy or baulky changes into first or when cold, so the problems with third might be a synchro thing, but first off check the condition and adjustment of the gear change linkages. The gearbox isn't sealed, so the level can be checked and the oil changed. On the 5 speed box there's no level plug, so you will need to drain and refill. Do a search on the forum for a 'how to'. Skoda don't actually recommend changing the gearbox oil, but I would if it's done over 100k, and it just might solve the problem in 3rd. Don't worry about the clutch. If it's fully engaged with your foot off, and fully released when you've pressed it to the floor, it's working OK. Can't comment on the smoke, but I've never seen this on mine in 50k. The 1.9 PDs won't be hurried, they're dedicated to giving you a smooth relaxed ride. Don't try to rush the box. Relaxed smooth gear changes with a teensy hesitation in neutral between each gear are the way to go.

If your fuel filter is clogged, you'd be getting better mpg, not worse. Bear in mind that once the motor is up to operating temperature cool damp air will get you better mpg than warm dry air and could account for a 5mpg difference. Was it cooler where you were?

My 2009 BXE estate gets same MPG as reported by Stormchaser - anywhere between 50 and 60mpg averaged over a tankful. Never had it drop below 50.

It could well use a lot less as the engine gets older and you get some nice soot & varnish 'piston rings' building up.

Fin 69, I salute your persistence & tenacity. It just goes to show what you can achieve when as an individual you take on the might of the big companies.

A leak from the water pump, either from the spindle or the seating in the block, will often not show any signs of damp, as the water collects in cam belt housing and evaporates off due to the heat of the block. It's important to rule this out, as cam belt contamination can result in premature failure of the belt. Whip the covers off and inspect, especially the belt and around the crank pulley area.

Sure was. And the loud crack was from the crankcase!!! :peek:

Yes, I guess that could happen, and then it would be a lot worse! I guess I'm put off the hammer-type drivers by once trying to disassemble a motorcycle with one, and making a huge crack in an almost priceless Bonneville alloy crank case. Never had any trouble with the 12V impact drivers. Another trick is to use a Dremel or even a good old hacksaw to cut a slot in the head of the offending bolt and then use a flat blade screwdriver to get it out.

Arm yourself with one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/360928424506?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0 Cheap & effective. They have the advantage that, unlike the simple manual ones, you don't have to hit them with a hammer and risk damage like cracking the fuel filter case.

As a temporary fix, hit the lock button on the remote twice. It disables any faulty intrusion alerts.

Yes, you could just trust the oil quality sensor..........................................................

If the low average mileages are the result of frequent short journeys rather than infrequent long ones, then they're harder work for the car's oil. Personally, I'd switch to annual services if it's the former.

Most likely problem is valve stem seals going; or a bit less likely, worn rings. Both will cause white smoke when you accelerate.

Beware of hidden expenses - If you get the roof covered in vinyl, you'll also have to have a set of 80's 'go faster' stripes painted on the bonnet, and you'll have to have the doors welded shut.

Mats from a Golf Mk5 are the same. Worth a search on ebay and the like for a good second hand set. Got mine from a boot sale for £5. Better than generic ones, as they've got the little snap-in pegs/eyelets that hold them in position.

Take 'em out and wire them straight to the battery to test them. If they work OK then it's a wiring fault (faulty supply or faulty earth). If not, it's time for new horns.

PD cam belts have to work the mechanical unit injectors (Pumpe Duse) in each cylinder as well as the valves, so they work harder than the belts in the later CR (Common Rail) diesels; hence they need to be changed more often. PD motors are also 'interference' designs, so they will trash any valves that happen to be in the open position when the belt lets go.

I think that it will automatically go from flexible to yearly service if you reset the service indicator yourself using the instructions in the handbook. Did with mine.

Sounds like a very good idea. But how would I put it back to read KPH for continental trips, as there's no KPH scale marked on the UK MPH speedo?

Here's a vid for a BKD. In Czech though! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q4xtBXhhM1Y

Agree with goneoffSKi. Rough running & difficult starting could be something as simple as a faulty or dirty spark plug. They're cheap, and easy to replace so try that first. Be sure to torque 'em in properly.