skodacarman

If the sump plug hole has been stripped, you'll need to take the sump pan an engineering shop to get the thread repaired, or source a second hand pan from a breaker. You could try fitting a 'helicoil' at home, but I wouldn't chance it.

It won't be rings/bores/pistons if there's oil on the ground.

If it's a PD, definitely not.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/163448-replace-front-cigarette-lighter-socket/

The fault may be in both. If the alternator hasn't been working properly, the battery will die from lack of charging; and there won't be enough juice from a faulty alternator to run the car without the battery.

Broken rings, worn bores, worn valve stem seals.

Email these people for advice & a quote [email protected];

Penny to a pound it's the water pump. It's driven by the cam belt, nestles in a hole in the engine block, and leaks invisibly into the area under the cam belt cover. Coolant doesn't run out of the cover because it dries out on the hot block.

Eliminate the possibility of a loose (silent) or knackered (rumbling) wheel bearing somewhere. Jack up each wheel in turn off the ground and grasp the tyre at the top and the bottom. It shouldn't be possible to rock it. Check that it spins freely and quietly, apart from some normal brake disc scuffing.

If you pull out the headlight unit, it's much easier to read the filter type stamped on the side of housing.

Sounds like valve stem seals.

Your motor will run better on cool wet air, due to natural 'charge cooling'.

They'll want to do the cam belt because the pump usually leaks over it and can result in weakening of the belt.

No, I've no expertise to offer you there. I daresay that oil pressure can be checked by VAG diagnostics kit, or a pressure checker that the garage can screw into the pressure sender connector. You need an expert to check.

Get it checked by the people who fitted the turbo. Oil light coming on when the level is halfway down the dipstick? Sounds like an oil pressure (pump fault?) rather than an oil level (leak?) issue. Check for traces of oil in the coolant. Check for oil drips/traces in and around engine.

There may yet be a sliver lining to your cloud! The 1.9 PD motor's cam belt-driven pump is a pain to change, but some of the CR diesel motors are fitted with an electric driven pump. If this is the case with your motor, then water pump replacement will be a much easier job.

On my 1.9, had to remove the cam belt cover to see the leak. The pump is driven by the belt.

Don't know about 1.6 CR. but 1.9 TDIs have well known issues with water pumps that leak coolant. Symptoms usually include 'invisible' coolant loss due to the fluid running down behind the cam belt cover and evaporating on the hot engine block before it has a chance to drip out. Can result in cam belt damage.

Don't worry about the capacity too much, particularly if it's over spec. Main things to check are "will it fit my battery tray?" and "has it got the right size & shape connection posts?".

Extract from the MOT regs, which I think means that if side lights are fitted, then they have to stay on when dipped/mains are on: Obligatory front and rear position lamps are lamps required by Regulations to be fitted to a vehicle to indicate its presence and width when viewed from the front or rear. Two front position lamps must be fitted, one on each side and show a steady white light to the front (or yellow if incorporated in a yellow headlamp) . Two rear position lamps must also be fitted, one on each side, showing a steady red light to the rear

I'm with Dr Zoidberg on this one. Here's an interesting link on the topic: http://www.mini2.com/forum/maintenance-mini-care/59467-truth-about-jet-washing.html

I have had exactly the same experience as bigjohn with my 2009 1.9 Octavia (55k miles). After a service and an oil fill to the top of the mark, it will quickly use oil down to the middle of the hatched bit on the dipstick, and then use none at all after that.

This is the type of strap wrench you'd need: http://store.apextoolgroup.com/hand-tools/automotive-specialty/gearwrench-3529d-heavy-duty-oil-filter-strap-wrench-3-8-or-1-2-drive.html Doesn't have a big handle sticking out sideways to get in the way. Fits in very narrow spaces. Use a 1/2" square drive socket extension bar rising vertically from the knuckle, and a ratchet on the top and clear of the confined space.

Invest in a good quality strap wrench.

Not going to be PAS fluid, since the power steering is electric.