captain uncertain

I think by fitting different springs (to what was there) I've upset things. Just not sure why it's only (most noticeable) when on left hand bends! Thanks!

Not sure if this is linked to me fitting new shocks (see https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/489523-octavia-scout-mk3-rear-suspension/ for details – did go stiffer for towing) or wheel alignment or something weird going on with the Haldex but my Scout has a mildly disconcerting bounce/lurch at times. Particularly when on left hand curves. Does anyone know what I should be checking? The garage have checked and told me everything is where it should be and all bolts etc torque'd. Have I just upset the handling? But if so, why especially when steering left? Andy advice/suggestions welcome. Thanks, Jonathan [2015 Scout]

Carslton, Karhunik – many thanks. So very helpful. Order placed.

So, best springs to fit to the rear to match Eibach R15459 springs, ride height and general driving but as stiff as is reasonable to assist towing/loaded driving please? SACHS 992 103? Or the EIbach or Bilstein? Thanks.

Carlston, can I join the ranks of people thanking you for your knowledge (and patience!) and, I hope, have you help me please? 2015 Scout – just had the front shocks/springs replaced but garage (do love ’em, genuinely) suggesting the rear shocks could do with replacing too (car is at 140,000 miles) . Front shocks (just) fitted are BILSTEIN B4 OE with Eibach R15459 springs. I'd like level ride height but I do tow my Panda about (and load the car for road-trips) so a stiffer rear spring would likely make sense. Rear shocks, https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bilstein/7503724 with a Eibach R10494 spring a good pairing with the front set-up I now have? Many thanks, Jonathan VIN is TMBMJ7NE9F0112414 Actually would this spring be as good/stiff as the Eibach? https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bilstein/633021 You did say a MK II spring will fit a MK III (even if Autodoc doesn't think so!) :O)

That sounds much worse than mine was (is, I think it's mildly returned but it doesn't affect drive-ability and I might be imagining) – it was a lull, dip, hesitation more than a significant loss of power. Definitely cured by the (software?) upgrade from the dealer but I can imagine it's 'reprogrammed' itself since. Yes, ignorant driver view, no idea of the tech. :O)

Didn't know that. Useful. Thanks… I’m at 70% (and so’s my battery :O)

Oddly the car is sometimes hesitating on starting, just a few seconds, first time from cold. Not checked the battery condition (but I'll ask next time it's at Bourne Motors – Bob and Andrew and Steve love my visits!). Never had it as bad as your “Normally it would do the sudden loss of power (as if someone is pressing the brake pedal hard) 3 times in a row. Kind of jolting the car forward.” …that sounds unsettling. If I was worried the car was going to let me down and endanger lives I'd certainly want it sorted. Hope you resolve it. My situation is just (currently) annoying.

To be honest it had sorted it but I’ve a feeling it's back. But it’s not a 'big thing' – a slight change in engine engagement (that doesn't describe it very well) and it doesn't affect my driving. If I'm 'pressing on' it's not an issue. Just an oddness around town when about 1500 revs. Wondering if it has reappeared as I had the 'injection rail' worked on (there are two things? one each end? had them replaced – I think) and upset all the sensors and computer bits?! It certainly was fixed by the updates but having reappeared I'm not going to chase a solution as just glad the car is delivering (and there's a stone chip in the windscreen to watch and save for – new screen £285 plus vat!). I got 38mpg towing my track Panda 100HP on a trailer from Eastbourne to Bedford and Cadwell and back it was great so I'm loving it.

Power map and DPF/EGR delete – well beyond my car knowledge, and the "start/stop" button come to that. Wish you all the best – hope you get it sorted.

I do believe the software update (or whatever Skoda dealer calls it) has sorted it. Driven 2000 miles since (and some very enjoyable driving in the west of Scotland) and not had 'it' happen once. It's going well. Didn't miss a beat. So, I'd suggest you book it in for £99 diagnostics at your Skoda dealer and have them report back. As well as the update I got the enitre car checked over, video underside etc, treatment. Money well spent.

@GrahamSkinner Update for anyone who's interested. Might (!) have got somewhere. Yesterday was Skoda dealer diagnostics. Birchwood in Eastbourne. Impressed with the service I got (particularly Harrison in the service dept. and Chris and Michael who carried out the work). They checked the whole car over (I got a funky video with tyre, pads, etc etc checks) but crucially connected it to Skoda HQ mothership. They updated the engine management software (see attached, might be relevant) and so far (driving the car back from the garage and again this morning) I can't get it to misbehave. No oddness at 1700 revs in third. Smooth at urban cruising speeds. Feels good. Might well be fixed, £99 well spent :O) Any relapses and I'll report back.

I've had it souped up – proper Campbell! Yes, sorry, typo 1700 :Op

@GrahamSkinner Sorry it's been so long since I posted on this topic. I've had my rear diff fixed (and coupling replaced). Sorted that but still the surging/lurching at 17,000 revs in third (etc). Diplocks Injectors in Hailsham took it for a drive, he felt the car behaving oddly at numerous gear/rev combos. I'm now going to paraphrase his words to me (but he knows his stuff and any inaccuracies here are mine)… “Skoda… could be the injectors, could be the EGR valve (not calibrated correctly slightly too open too closed at various points), or something else really not possible to discover what’s going on with that car and it ain’t a problem so all okay to stick with it. You could map out the EGR (!) but ultimately it’s fine if it is not a problem. You could spend hours and hundreds of pounds looking for it but if you test the injectors out of the car you won't get the same situation, and EGR is a b*st*rd to get to to replace/test. There might have been a recall / software update but you'll only know that if you go to a Skoda dealer” I summarise. The man knows his stuff, was lovely to talk to and wouldn't take payment (but beer and biscuits will be delivered next week) …so, I've booked a £99 diagnostics with Skoda as last port of call before I just live with it (or get it mapped and see if that sorts it!). Skoda will connect to VAG Mothership (motherboard) and that will show if any tech. solution/recall/update.

Update from me. I paid Pilbeam (Hailsham, Sussex) about £1100 and they took out my rear diff. Car sat for two weeks or so at their yard whilst Bexhill Gearboxes serviced the diff (they fitted one new bearing I believe, and the £380 they charged was in the Pilbeam invoice). Pilbeam put it all back together again. Bill included fitting a new coupling (which I bought from Autodoc for £140 I think). Car is now quiet and going well (although I still have my issue, see another thread, with my lurching/eccentric sensation at ~1700rpm in third, ~1600 in fourth, and odd at other times – car booked in to Diplocks Injectors, Hailsham on 15th to check fuel delivery system). Diff fixed £1250 :O)

Yes – very keen to have all the bearings checked/replaced. I've been quoted £400 for the refurb/rebuild. £500 for the getting it out and putting it back in (and I'm hoping that will include fitting a new rear coupling as that's knackered (and I have a new one from autodoc). All this will be mid-August at the earliest. Thanks.

FYI – my car is booked in for the 25th July but a 10 working day turn around for the diff rebuild (once it's out and at Bexhill people), so all being well I will be driving it middle of August. I'll endeavour to find out what the rebuild entailed (assuming successful) and how it drives. Fingers crossed :O)

Well, after all that, my finances now look like refurbing the original DIFF is now the only option so my diesel/petrol query is no longer a factor. I'll just be pushing the refurb people to get it right (and not fob me off with a 'fubar' diagnosis – reading here it suggests the common issues with VAG DIFFs are very fixable). Do appreciate all the advice and info here though, so thank you. I'll be back once the DIFF is sorted to restart my 'why is my Scout surging… fuel injection issues?' thread – see elsewhere in these fora! I will get my car to 100% ~96% :0)

Help please – got an option on a 0CQ525010L differential that I'm told will work for my diesel car (VIN TMBMJ7NE9F0112414) but also been told a diff for diesel is different (no pun intended) to a petrol one and the diff I've been offered is coming from a petrol car. Are DIFFs fuel specific? Thanks.

Slight aside – any thoughts on which coupling to go for? https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/drive-shaft-coupler-10807/skoda/octavia/octavia-5e3/108649-2-0-tdi-4x4?criteria[100][0]=H I was going to opt for FEBI BILSTEIN as I've heard of BILSTEIN (shocks on my Panda)

Wow – 'shop grafting gents! I've just watched the Aussie and Dutch Rear Diff removal (and servicing) videos. Well beyond my pay-grade! Question, I've been told I need 0BR525010Q rear diff, but lllparts.co.uk says the Q model replaced by L and S variants. Is there any way of finding out which 'part number' models will fit my Skoda please? Prices are such that I might have to 'send the diff away' to be rebuilt (and lose a (summer) month of car use!). Thanks.

I'll not be pleased if I have to pay 20% of the £5,084 Skoda dealer price! :OP Don't mind paying 20% of the amount I pay for the item (I'm sure the government will take my money and spend it wisely!) I'll let you know!

Found the rear diff just searching eBay – they have been efficient in requesting VIN and confirming the correct part. I've no idea if it's local manufacture or not – the pictures clearly show 'made in Austria' on the unit but they also say "To avoid customs problems, we might have to remove the logo on parts." …it's tricky to know who is who and what is what these days. Guess I take a punt – benefit of the doubt. As for the coupler – garage man shunted it this way and that and told me it needed replacing – trust him and makes sense to get it sorted when the back of the car is being dismantled/repaired. Thank you for you thoughts.

Extra update from me. Couple of pics. I'm likely going to buy a 'new' unit from China/eBay – anyone else done that? Appreciate breakers unit is an option but difference in price makes me think a new unit better than a XX,000 miles one. And I want the car back on the road asap – save time if new one replaces old unit in one 'garage session' rather than 'send away for refurb'. Opinions welcome (particularly of people getting OEM stuff from faraway). And, best place to get the 'coupling' (see picture) that needs replacing too. Thanks.

Dellbert, you messaged me asking how I was getting on, for benefit of anyone else… Not sorted yet. Options 1. Get existing diff out, send to rebuild people (who will take three weeks approx) to fix (if they can about £380, £1500 if they can't, and need to cannibalise another diff) …plus removing/fitting costs 2. Get diff out and have 'new' unit fitted (currently trying to confirm unit on eBay from China is legit.) £1200 for unit (plus duty/vat??) and plus removing/fitting costs 3. Get diff out and have 'breakers yard' unit fitted (£400-750 but can I be sure it's from the mileage/car they say – what guarantee?) – plus removing/fitting costs. 4. New unit from Skoda dealer £5,084 – plus removing/fitting costs :O) 5. Keep driving it until it breaks, then one of the above 6. Just sit and cry I'm thinking 2 as that way I can have the car for August (garages are massively booked) …and refurb loses August driving! I have garage booked for July 25th (!) to get diff out (and looking to sort it so 'new' diff can go straight in) – time enough to source a 'new' diff I can trust/afford. I've been told (and this is my non-tech recollection) that exhaust has to come off and rear sub-frame dropped as the diff bolts in from the top! It seems they do put cars together with little thought for later access! Guess you could cut in from above – joke!!