retiredbri

Hi there, see my post "Fitting Door sill and rear Bumper Guards" by retiredbri, 26 September, 2014 in Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 onward) forum

My wife recently purchased an Octavia 3, 1.4tsi DSG hatch and having seen the benefit of sill guards on the previous Fabia, wanted them on the Octavia. She also wanted the rear bumper guard as well. The adverts for the genuine Skoda Door Sill covers on EBay were confusing saying the part number 5E0 071 303 (2 front door and 2 rear door sills, black) was for the Saloon (does not exist). I can confirm that 5E0 071 303 is the correct part number for the Octavia 3 Hatch. I remembered how easy it was to get the sill guards stuck in the wrong place on the Fabia so decided to get the Door Sill templates at the same time as the sill guards. The templates (set of four) have part number 5E5 071 718. The Rear Bumper Guard came from http://www.rearguards.co.uk/ with part number “RBP603 - OCTAVIA III 5DR 2.2013>” (about a week ago, they were listed as for an Octavia IV that also does not exist). The car had Autoglym LifeShine applied by the dealer. We chose a warm day 18 degC (instructions between 15 – 30 degC), and washed the sills with detergent and water, rinsed then dries them. We used Methylated Sprits to degrease the surfaces (look at the positions of the adhesive strips to just clean these areas). I used 4 lots of cloth for each sill with fresh meth’s each time. You could see the surface loose its shine after the 3rd cloth. I used a hairdryer to make sure the surface was dry (it’s easy for moisture/meth’s to remain under the rubber seals). Because there is a lip on the door sill guard, if you push the sill guard under the rubber seal, the lip will stop it from sticking flat. It’s worth doing a number of dry runs to make sure the “lip” would sit correctly – once it is stuck, it will not unstick and be ruined. Also, there are small “distance” pads under the lip – these do not stick. I can say, it was well worthwhile getting the door sill templates. One person held the template while the other carefully get the guard in place before pressing down. (The Templates have gone on EBay to benefit others). Interestingly, Rearguard say do not degrease the surface by going across, only along it and in one directions only. I could see the reason for this – if you go back and forth, you spread the wax from the right back onto the left. They also supply a 3M “VHB” cleaner tissue so I used that after the meth’s on the rear bumper. From the pictures you can see the rear bumper guard has a good sized lip and covering the whole of the surface. It is quite thick and able to take the inevitable abuse that a hatch lip suffers. I can imagine it not being damaged by dog clawers.

Had the 7 speed DSG on the previous 1.2tsi Fabia in 2011 and 34k miles later, absolutely no problems. Just traded it in for the Octavia SE Hatch, 1.4tsi 7 speed DSG. Note: previous poster mentioned the 6 speed DSG. I believe this has wet clutches compared with the 7 speed that has dry clutches.

Thanks for the pictures Miz, they help a lot more than talking about it. I was confused by the Rearguards description as "OCTAVIA IV 5DR 2.2013" but can now order the RBP603 for my Corrida Red car with confidence.

Ordered SE 1.4 dsg with cruise control & parking assist 22 May, picking it up Thursday 18 Sep. This is within 1 week of date promised by factory that was given 2 weeks after order went from dealer to the factory. Can't understand why some are on time and some are "sometime/never"

Thanks for all the replies - I'm coming round to thinking that it could be useful sometimes so switching it off and on (I'll be getting the DSG version) is the way to go.

I will shortly be getting :no: an Octavia SE 1.4 tsi, DSG and I understand that it has stop start. Many of the discussions talk about SS using a conventional starter motor. This does not seem to make sense, the reason being that on a 55 plate Citroen C3 with SS that I had many years ago, they had got rid of the starter motor, the solenoid and the thick/heavy copper leads and just used extra, higher voltage & thinner windings in the alternator to turn it into a motor that started the engine silently using the drive belt. I think they used the electronics to convert the 12 v DC to a higher AC voltage and because the current drawn from the battery much lower then the current needed by the older type of starter motor, the battery did not suffer from frequent "high current" demands and therefore lasted for ages. Also, there was no bendix drive to wear out the flywheel teeth. Do VAG use the same principle as Citroen for its stop-start engines?

Hi, slightly off topic but does the SS use the starter motor of the alternator (acting as a motor) and the belt to start the engine. The reason I ask is that on a 55 plate Citroen C3 with SS, they had got rid of the starter motor, the solenoid and the thick/heavy copper leads and just used extra, higher voltage & thinner windings in the alternator to turn it into a motor. The electronics upped the 12 v DC to 120V ac when the start was required. The start was therefore quiet and because the current drawn from the battery was only 1/10th of the current needed by the older type of starter motor, the battery did not suffer from frequent "high current" demands.

Interesting. While looking at http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar/skoda/octavia-2013/?section=good it said " ....1.4 TSI 140 is timing belt, not chain and reader thinking of buying one was honestly quoted by the dealer £374 in 4 years time for replacing the belt" So question is: how can you inspect a timing belt? Normally manufacturers say "Replace after xxx miles". Any ideas?

I looked carefully (and at the video) and to me, it seemed like just a cylindrical profile cam when not in use which equals no valve movement?

I saw the video explanation of the valves/cylinders and it seemed that the middle two cylinders had all valves closed, fuel is cut off but still sparking. Surely, two "closed" cylinders will have some resistance and use power. Equally, I'm certain the valves could not stay open because of hitting the pistons. All in all, I'm glad I'm not getting ACT - better it becomes established for a year or two before it is rolled out here. retiredbri

Hi guys - been away a few days. Just wondered how did the diesel engine get into the petrol engine ACT topic?

Hi everyone Just ordered the Octavia SE with 1.4 TSI 140ps with DSG and told about 12 weeks so maybe BW 34 - mid August but not holding my breath. Is there any indication that ACT will be introduced to the Skoda 1.4tsi stables. Also, from the VW site http://www.volkswagenag.com/content/vwcorp/info_center/en/news/2013/06/tsi.html in 2013 it says the ACT version is 140ps (138bhp, 103kw). I cannot see how shutting two cylinders doe can make 150ps Can someone can shed some light on the ACT availability particularly since the 1.4 tsi is £1200 more than the 1.2 tsi engine? regards Retiredbri

Hi everyone I started in early 2011 with the long wait (then) for the Fabia 1.2 TSI DSG. Got it in June 2011 but well worth the wait. Just ordered the Octavia SE with 1.4 TSI 140ps with DSG and told about 12 weeks so maybe BW 34 - mid August but not holding my breath this time.

Skoda Fabia TSi 1.2 with DSG bought Jun 2011 There have been a number of threads about the 1.2TSi and annoying rattling. The one that I'm talking about can be heard once the engine has warmed up and when sitting in the driver’s seat. It sounds like "diesel engine-like" tapping when the car is at idle and at the slowest engine revolutions. The slightest touch on the accelerator (probably only increasing the revs by 20 or 30) stops the noise. Engaging D with the foot on the brake increases the engine revs just enough to stop the noise. Note: This thread NOT about air intake or air-conditioning pipe noises but specifically for the noise that comes from the pulsating petrol pipe. This pipe runs under the driver's seat and emerges in the engine compartment on the left when looking under the bonnet. The petrol pump causes the pipe to pulsate and this gets coupled into the body/drivers compartment. I can make it come and go to order (see photos) and was able to get the Skoda garage not only to hear it but get onto Skoda UK. They admitted that there was a known problem and had made an official mod kit called "foam sound deadening piece to fit to fuel lines" It was fitted to my car at the same time as the 10,000 mile service. An upgrade called "24W6" (to fit shim to turbo and update software) was done at the same time. You may want to try to make the noise come and go (as photos) so as to be confident that the noise is not from other sources. Note: My own unofficial mod kit was to jam a piece of foam to keep the fuel pipe forward as in picture 1 but I think that this was just moving the pipe run under the driver's seat. Over a period of time, the foam would deform and the noise would return. It's early days yet to see if the official mod works. Let’s see how it goes. retiredbri

If you ordered and paid the deposit in July then this is the point that the final price was fixed for contractual purposes. The "VAT" off deal was not really VAT free - that would be illegal. What Skoda did was discount the price of the car so that when VAT was added to this discounted price, the price that you agreed to pay was the "equivalent" of it being VAT free. The finance deal was part of the contracted price. retiredbri

In my original post, I said that I had at least 7 litres in the tank so I was not letting it get to the crap at the bottom. regards, retiredbri

I've been monitoring the mpg on the 1.2TSI + DSG by filling up each time (brim full). It was achieving a consistent 44mpg - all types of motoring The other day, armed with a Tesco 5p per litre off voucher, I filled up. The forecourt is on a slope and I wanted the maximum amount and continued to fill after the clicks and it took 49litres (read the book later - shouldn't have done this :no:) The book also said that the capacity is 45 litres which includes the 7 litre reserve Before refuelling, the car was not down to anywhere near the "7litre reserve" so it means that the tank is holding at least 56 litres. With only 376 miles since last fill, using this "brim-full", the consumption was way down to 34.8mpg Leaving the garage, the "miles to go on this tank full" said 420 miles. After about 10 miles of gentle driving, it said 425 miles. Now, a week and 155 miles later, it still indicates full, and says 425 miles. Has anyone else noticed a "big tank" in their Fabia retiredbri

The £56 looks all embracing and seems to be for the Fabia Estate only We have a Fabia Hatch and got a plastic boot liner for £32 and a Rear Bumper Foil with warning triangle KDX710001 Fabia 2007 £ 8.00 http://www.accessories.skoda.co.uk/productsList.aspx?type=a&id=16&main=Car%20Care%20and%20Protection⊂=Bumper%20Protection Picture = http://www.accessories.skoda.co.uk/productdetail.aspx?p_no=KDX710001 It bolts to two fixings inside and folds down flat. I leave it in all the time and fold it out when loading anything - shopping, rubbish for the tip etc. The plastic boot liner goes in and out as required. retiredbri

Now up to 1950 miles, 40% town, local urban stuff and 60% motorway with cruise control set to 70 and getting 44.5 mpg overal = 12p per mile for just fuel. Very pleased I got the 1.2tsi with DSG :yes:

I've noticed the rad fan will keep running with the ignition off. I've heard the "humming/bubbling" that I think is the small pump that keeps cooling water going to the turbo. retiredbri

I'm confused. I've heard the extra water pump running (and popping noises from the top-up bottle) but didn't know about an extra oil pump? After 55 mins on a recent constantly fast (but not excessively fast)journey, I needed fuel and at 131.9, pulled in quickly and just switched off so as to refuel and be on my way. Was this wrong? retiredbri

Went on 80 mile each way trip on Sunday and the cruise control was fantastic (1.2TSI & DSG). Enough space to stretch both legs out and speed held spot on. 10 miles on A14 with average speed cameras and it sat spot on 70mph (speedo value, 68.5 SATNAV). 60 miles on A1M was very easy and relaxed. Where it wasn't so good was about 4 miles of straight & wide country road that had slight rises and dips every 200 yds. The car would try reduce power on the dips and the power up on the inclines - you felt it through the seats and the passenger said it was quite nauseous. retiredbri

If you want power from the battery for the timer then use the Aux 12v supply (cigarette lighter socket by the handbrake) is on all the time as far as I know.

Mine does it - both D and R. I had the handbrake on and took footbrake off and felt car wanting to move (Did it once - not good for the clutches so never again) Page 97 of latest manual (x A05_Fabia_OwnersManual.pdf - from "Official Fabia II documentation available for download from SKODA" at top of this forum) says: "When the engine is running and the vehicle is stationary, it is necessary to hold the car with the brake pedal in all the positions of the selector lever (except P and N) since the power transmission is never completely interrupted, also not when the engine is idling - the vehicle creeps." retiredbri