DSS199

Fixed now guys. Was a ball ache and never want to see another door latch again ever!!!

It's worth noting I changed the drive shafts the knocking still there

For top mounts I'm Not rushing but will do. He said play with wheel bearing but I do keep getting knocking from that wheel in right hand turns

Yeas for bearings not for rubber mount cups.

Yeah, I have changed the rubber bush at the top and the bearings twice in 10,000 miles

I have been advised that my top mounts have play, but I have change the bushes and bearings twice abd there genuine skoda parts.... Any ideas what else could cause this. Also it has been mentioned that my wheel bearing needs doing. Anyone know any parts suppliers with a decent price, and is it easier to just fit a new hub?

When I did that it bent and I don't want to need a new one, could dropping the window and manipulating the rubbers help loosen them? I have re bbuilt the door card as waiting on cable

I'm just trying to think of ways to make it easier to get door card off as mine stick hard in. As for the link I sent wrong page but I agree seems to be same part http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=130826797625&index=9&nav=SEARCH&nid=74632216084

Yes I removed all screws as per yours and the Haynes manual instructions, was just a tight bugger, can you not do thus with window completely down

Does this look correct for the interior door latch cable??? http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=130826797625&cmd=VIDESC

My problem was I had done all the steps to remove door card as you pointed out, but the door card would not realease from the top of the door(where the window is) Nearly broke the bloody thing trying

Went to open the door and crack the interior latch has broken an I right in believing that they are cables in the door attached to the latch not a rod, and does anyone know the correct part number for the drivers do

Nothing I can see, car is in for a service on Tuesday, so will get him to look, heard it once today on ice but that it.

Why would one side be worse??? As left wheel spins silently

Left wheel seems to be way quieter when it slides, the right side (drivers) is a horrid loud grind

Where is the best location for the venting of the gasses, all my attempts have resulted in a hint of the smell coming from the air vents when turned on. So far I have placed the pipe in the wheel arch (as seen on here) and in front if the radiator (sane as on here) both results in the bad smell in the cabin. I was planning on venting under the car but my jack has broke, was just curious about if I'm the only one with smell issues.

Yes

Hi all I have noticed with the cold weather that I am getting a short grinding noise when I set off on a patch of ice, doesn't continue when I drive off tho... Any clues

What's the advantage of the wire wool in the tank? Is it essential

Well I gave bought the kit to make the elephant mod, just waiting for catch tank. Was just wondering with elephant mod where shall I lead the pipe down while bot using the catch tank. As I will have to wait for tank but want to start addressing the issue first.

Been researching the elephant mod, any ideas if this would affect the warm up of the engine in cold conditions as the hot air is not circulated back into the intake.

You are not aware of any guide on how to do this correctly as I'm new to fiddling with turbo diesel and don't want to damage anything.

I would like to turn down the EGR Valve on my 110 octavia TDI 2001 I heard this help with the gunge in the valve

I have moved house yesterday so have very limited tools, would spraying down the flexi pope immediately before the egr be a useful temp fix????

I was going to have a go a temp maintenance on my old motor, I have used the 10k boost on the past with medium results, I was recommended to try wynns for the egr valve, but am getting different reports on where to spray in the intake system. As not to risk damage to car can anyone clarify with a picture If possible.... Cheers guys