BigJakk

Hello guys, no doubt this will sound like a silly question. I need to paint a new brake caliper so that it matched the others. I've found somewhere that sells Pantone 348C Green high temperature engine paint which i believe is the correct colour code? I was just wanting to check this is correct, also what sort of finish would give the best match, it is available as "Matt", "Satin", "Semi Gloss" or "Gloss" Cheers guys

Just an update for this, re contacted garage who still had the arm with the noise dampener on it sat on the workbench. Mechanic knew what it was as apparently they used to fit them as a modification, but the new caliper came with a helper spring and he couldn't see how to fit it onto the dampened arm, so just took it off. :no: In terms of getting the spring on over the dampers, the actual dampener/bush/weight is held on with a hex head screw, used a ratchet handle to get this off (a ratchet driver wouldn't work as it is realy well screwed in and couldnt get enough torque onto it) and then with some tension already applied to the spring with some mole grips just installed the spring as per normal, using a piece of gardening wire looped through the hook to pull it into place. I did have to straighten out both ends of the spring ever so slightly with a pair of pliers to get them to seat properly into the holes. Then just reattached the dampener/bush/weight. Job done! Cheers for the help guys!

As above, scan it. I have heard of something similar being caused by a vac leak, I'd give all the pipework a check over while your waiting to get it scanned

Not right happy with the garage at the moment. Just been and had a look under the car and where the new caliper had been fitted they have fitted it with a spring. Annoying given I have the pair on my kitchen table I got off eBay last week. Even more annoying, they've removed the damper on that side and replaced it with a new, undampened piece! So, nearside is currently noisr dampened with no spring, off side has no noise dampers but a spring. I shall be fizzing if the mooing returns

Last year with Brentacre I found myself a quote with one of the other modified/performance specialists which was £50 cheaper. Rang Brentacre up to see if there was anything they could do, got put on hold for a few minutes and they came back and said okay and matched the price. Same price and saved the chew of registering with someone anew. Always worth chancing your hand.

Took it down to VW Specialists near work today, diagnosed a seized OSR Caliper :( 250 Sheets later I have a new caliper (which needs painting) and two new brake pads on at the rear (they changed the gearbox oil as well I must add). Handbrake seems sorted at least, need arms like Thor to put the bugger up to four clicks now. Might leave the springs off for time being until they all bed in as heard the springs make handbrake even harder to apply? Next job, paint that caliper, which will be a new one on me - I do love this DIY lark!

Spent rather a lot of money replacing a seized caliper :(

Yep, baffled me for a few minutes the other day, not immediately obvious is it!

Brentacre have always been good for mine

Mine came out when I changed my fuel filter today, if you look towards the sill, directly opposite where the filter sits, there's a rubber bung with a hole in it, push the flat end into that and then turn it so the bottom of the U hook points downwards and that secures it in place

I made a day of it

Changed the oil and filter, air filter, cabin filter and fuel filter (bit worried by this given the horror stories about snapping the fuel line clips but was easy in the end!), greased up all the door hinges, checked all the other fluid levels, inflated the tyres, failed to locate a rattle in my drivers seat, bottled doing a gear linkage adjustment as the locking pin seemed fragile and wouldn't go into the locking position, then had a cup of tea and looked at it.

Had a look again today, yarking on the underside of the seat base where it goes into the runners as hard as i could has failed to reproduce any noise, so i think the rollers are okay. Went and sat in the car and the noise definitely seems to be coming from the seat back whenever I move/adjust my weight so that my lower back comes onto or off it. Think i may have to roll the seat cover up and have a look at what's going on. Dont think that will be enjoyable, didn't bother today as hands were pitted from doing an oil change

Sods law struck today anyways, went to get the trolley jack out to find that its kaput! Had to crack out the widow maker but this wont raise the car enough to allow me to get my axle stands to the chassis rails. As such, had to do as I have in the past, fortunately no damage! Might invest in those jacking pads, not to mention a decent low profile trolley jack Cheers chaps

Hello guys, In the past I've always used the jacking points on the sills, using the "widowmaker" jack to lift and then bunging the axle stand directly next to the jack on the sill. I've read countless horror stories about jacking up on the sills and don't really want to continue this practice on sills which are 10yrs old, as its only a matter of time before I bend one of them. I've read a few comments about placing the axle stands under the chassis rails, I take it that the chassis rails are what is pictured here? The underside of my motor is covered in anti-corrosion treatment however in terms of the front of the car these look to me to be the two boxy rails behind the engine bay area, the drivers side one of which has what I believe to be brake/fuel lines into it? Am I right in this assumption and are these areas really strong enough to support the weight of the car as the last thing i want to do is crush a brake/fuel line! If so, is there a specific point on the rail that is reinforced etc. that I need to place the stands specifically at? Cheers again

I've read somewhere in the past that when manufacturers refer to something as being on a "lifetime" service plan they are actually referring to the "lifetime" of the warranty they provide for the vehicle. This sort of makes sense as nothing can last forever. My attitude to "lifetime" parts is that they do need changing, just not necessarily on a frequent or annual basis like you would engine oil etc. (e.g. im having the "lifetime" manual transmission oil on mine changed soon as the car has now done 70,000 miles)

Cheers mate, Sounds like the rolleys could be a good starter for ten, I'm fairly convinced that its not anything to do with the seat base as I've had the seat out of the car twice in the last 6 months and checked the base over and lubed all the moving parts up with lithium grease,, it also doesnt make the noise when i apply pressure to the base on its own with my hands etc. I'm also not entirely convinced its anything wrong with the lumbar functions as they are working and adjusting properly. Although the seat is secured in properly at the front bolts I never through to check the rollers at the rear. Hoping to give the car its yearly service tomorrow (weather permitting) so will have a look at the rollers then. I take it then just bolt off and on? Cheers

Don't happen to know the part number do you Phil? Just in case.

The keys got it out fine, wouldn't get em from Halfords though, sold me the wrong type! Heard of people using pieces of old credit card cut into strips instead

Lumbar adjuster still seems to be working, I took the seat out a few weeks ago and went a bit mad with the lithium grease on the height adjustor mechanism and the seat rails but hasn't fixed it, which made me think it wasn't the base. I'll have a look at it next week see if there's any springs loose or obviously missing. Cheers!

Your comments 're: the springs, do you mean you can hook the spring around the back of the noise dampers and then hook it into the slot in the metal plate or do you just pull it over the damper and then hook the spring onto the back edge of the metal plate? Looked at the other wheel and that also seems to have the problem with the arm being pulled down low, hoping its cables and not calipers

Hello guys, i've been chasing a rattle in my VRS for a while now, I would describe it as a very hollow metallic ringing noise somewhat akin to a rusty spring contracting, relatively quiet and could be easily drowned out with the stereo, would only ever happen under breaking or steering (i.e. changing the balance of the car). My initial thoughts were suspension issues, however after a while i realised the noise was coming from "inside" the car. I believe I have tracked it to the drivers seat back, whenever i shift my (not inconsiderable) weight in the seat, I get the noise. I've checked and it is definitely coming form the seat back and not the base (changed that last year). I've had a search and cannot see any similar issues or how to/DIY's etc for this issue and wondered f anyone else has experienced the same? Cheers

Not the best photo but it seems like the control arm for the cable is being pulled down far too low. It's going in for service next week anyway so will let them look, starting to think its an overstretched cable too https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B4fk_YZGH-JiVkVneFdNRWc3R2c/edit?usp=docslist_api

Just been out and had another look, when releasing handbrake the nearside cable/arm moves freely and by a good few millimetres. The offside however barely moves at all and moves very slowly like the arm is hummed up or something

Garage reckons they're not needed (although I am growing increasingly sceptical of some of their "wisdom")