Im gouki

Thought all Audi S3 intercoolers were all Ally ? Have they changed the design ?

This new square styling of the VAG range has yet to grow on me ......Their cars are starting to look very generic. Let's hope they don't do the " lets enlarge the same shape " that BMW is currently doing.......... come back Bangle all is forgiven . :think:

Sorry to hear about your woes , but as has been suggested , get the dpf removed and mapped to suit. Do a search on this forum as it has been covered many times. It will be a lot cheaper and hopefully worry free from then on. Good luck !

Sounds like just the air rushing in and at 4500 rpm something resonates .....!

I have a venom kit , it makes a nice roaring noise. Is the noise constant ?

Totally agree with meta55b , unless of course your planning auto-light sensors ( don't know if they are available for the octavia ). Now that would make it all a workable idea.

Just come accrss this. WAI ? not really seen it termed like that. But no big stumbling block. Warm air into the engine usually decreases perfomance and economy , cold air usually increases performance and economy. It's all about air on the inlet side of the engine. Colder , denser air has more oxygen , than warm air. So in colder air you get a bigger bang , than warmer air. All the engine is doing is igniting air and fuel. This is all in simplistic terms of course , it can get really complicated when other factors are concerned. Buy don't need to worry about it. You might have noticed yourself if you drive on warm day , your car feels o.k. Then later in the colder evening the car feels a little more energetic , a bit quicker. That's the effect of colder denser air. As regards the WAI and reduced pumping losses and wider throttle openings is a contradiction as with wider throttle opening usually means more fuel , with more fuel comes poor economy as more fuel needs more air ( more oxygen in fact ) so it does not add up. The only time warm is ever good is on the startup cycle of an engine in cold climates. There is a thing called the stoichiometric ratio , or more commonly know as air to fuel ratio ( for this instance ) this determines how efficiently fuel is burned in air. It's trying to maintain this ratio that we strive for for both econommy and perfomance. It's massive area of debate and a lot of science. So simply for us mere mortals , cooler air usually better for your engine than warm air. Hope i have not confused you more.

Why so keen to change an already quite rare colour ? Why not just tone it down with the matt battle ship grey or a grey carbon fibre wrap on the bonnet , roof and tailgate , with the antracite wheel colour ...or better still wrap the again the bonnet,roof and tail gate in an antracite wrap same colour as the wheels ....leave some of the yellow on the car. Yellow and black has been done already ( quite decent looking to boot).

My two pence , get the k04 kit , many tuners sell it and will support the mods to give you 300bhp. There is no point pushing the K03 to it's limits to get 300bhp you will only shorten the life of the turbo. The kits usually have the manifold and all the bit's needed. Also an uprated intercooler , and aluminum rad ( would suggest ). Along with the injector mods and mapping , the uprated fuel pump either the replacement HPFP or as some companies have started doing , uprated intank pumps. Better bakes , suspension mods mentioned. A front diff would help with the getting the power down. That's assuming you are starting with a 2.0 tfsi. They are slight diffences with the 2.0 tsi ....but effectively the same route. To be honest for relaible 300bhp , you will need supporting mods. Nobody wants a 300bhp once engine. If your car is an older model would suggest budget for engine and coolant silicone hoses for the sake of reliability. Good luck if you do and hope it gives you what you looking for.

Aluminum radiator ( if your suit case is big enough ).... :think:

Have to say the VR6 lump is one of the best sounding VW engines. Long time ago my friend had a mk2 with the conversion , even though now he has an S3 , he still misses that vr6 mk2. R36 sweet :love:

Have to admit before i had the skoda , had the jaguar x-type 3.0 sport with 4wd ...the proper system , not the elctronic version of the later models. Nice car , but too sedate , hopeless for tuning despite what the figures say , it was quite a slow hector. The 4wd system had a problems with the transfer box , any quick launches would produce an awfull smell and it did not feel right for a while afterwards. Then I looked it the madza 6 mps , subaru legacy / impreza even a mitisbushi galant 4wd. All nice motors , but running costs was a bit too high. The skoda really fitted the bill, can't knock it too hard.

Have to agree , it's brand marketing. Personally I would rather a front diff on the Octavia. For 4wd forget the haldex system , go for a A4 quattro if you want a saloon/estate. Seeing as they already have the Golf R and also the passat 4 motion all in the £30k + price range like Jonno VRs says , it would be range madness to introduce a skoda octavia that would threaten those cars.

Lower the suspension a little yes , but stiffer is not always the best way to go. Thing is with these newer cars is the they conform to Noise , Vibration and Harshness programs. So suspension components have a lot of play. So a regime of changing certain bushes to polyurathane ( not the track orientated versions) , stiffing up the chassis with chassis braces ( see the american ebay sites for the vw golf and jetta mk5 for how much is available ). From experience the lower chassis braces have a more significant effect than the usual upper strut braces. Stuff like that works , but in reality were are trying to achieve BMW M3 type handeling from a basic fwd saloon is a very tall order. An old fwd drag tip for managing weight transfer is to have the front slightly lower than the back. Don't know if they are available for the octavia , but on my old corrado i had 10mm lower front suspension top mounts. A small but worthwhile mod. If you don't want to or can't lower the suspension , then just uprate the dampers ( i'm sure that is an uprated set of dampers for standard springs ) , then anti-roll bars front and rear. I think it will improve the standard chassis a great deal. Personally after fitting the walk kit and the h&r pro springs ( only 15mm lower than standard ) totally transformed the way the car handled. I'm looking at new dampers and a rear uprated anti-roll bar. There is also the dog mount kit too. All these changes taylor the car to your needs. I'm sure others here have tried these things and will gladly give or have already given they opinions on how they have or have not changed the way the car feels and handles. Personally I'm looking forward to GTI international , they are usually lots of sellers , but the most interesting conversation i had was with the polybush rep ..... reading between the sales pitch you can pick up so much info. Again going back to my corrado , had the whole car polybushed front and back suspension. Sweetest fwd car going , yep went the normal route , peugeot gti ... the 309 route ...less of a widow maker than the 205 , also cut my vw teeth on a mk2 golf gti 16v with 8v gearbox ....! It takes time and reseach to filter out what you need. I'm hoping to make the most of the Octavia chassis within my budget , without destroying all the good bits of the car. But trying to keep it realistic and affordable . It still has to have the virtues and practicallity of the original car , otherwise it's a failure. I live in london so understand the speed bump virus. Here we are lucky enough that most places have bus/ambalance friendly versions , so a small tip a wider wheel track means that you can just skip over them ( once you line it up accurately ) ...downside is track needs to be checked every 6 to 8 months and your car can't be too low. On the plus side a slightly wider track improves handling. I'm still doing my research. Luckily many things have already be tried , so it's just a matter of serching through all the info for what seems best. It's a lot better than and less expensive than trying everything yourself .....ahhh the wonders of the internet , where were you 15 years ago. :think:

Ok, i see where your at. But having owned a rwd 320 bhp nissan skyline, with no traction control or abs. Set up for grip and handeling as opposed to the usual drift spec. It was a handful in the damp and wet. Suspect more modern rwd coupe would do better. Gave it lots of respect in wet it was a hoot to drive. we also forget that these cars are set up to be safe and comfortable. The only company that offers a more drivers focus set up is Renault with their cup upgrade, but even that option is only availabe on certain models. No 4/5 door models.

Wait a sec, am i wrong in thinking that chassis of the current octavia is the same as the highly praised one in the vw golf mk5/6? Cause it seems that people are unfairly slagging it off. It is what it is. The v.a.g range have their hireacy , so a medium range model will never feel or drive like the top end model even if they are based on the same floor plans. As regards launching from standstill get wrong regradless of what drive you have will result in a mess. It's a fine balance of grip vs. traction for fwd and rwd. 4wd requires the ability not to bog down the car. All techniques require practice to be proficient. As to vrs777's problem with traction will assume your technique is good, so would lead me to suspect issues with suspension geomentry or your tps or even the electronic acelarator map.

There is no car quiker than a hire car eh!

I have been looking at these for sometime. Would be very insterested in how you fit it and your impressions. Was planning to go just the S3 intercooler route, but might leave the standard intercooler uprate the radiator and use this fmic instead. Hopefully you can do a full pictured post.

The mention of these older cars just clouds the discussion, they are all analogue cars. Like my old b.b.r corrado. There is no way i would expect a big 4/5 door family car to handle like they used to.

Funny thing is the haldex system is front wheel drive until the system detects the front wheels slipping and then goes 4wd until the fronts stop slipping. So unless you are really pushing or in very poor traction conditions the S3 is mainly fwd. Unlike the permanent real quattro system.

Have to admit as good as the bmw is, it's pig ugly if the first one is anything to go by the ride will be poor and the interior cramped at best. Here in london there is a bit of a stigma attached to the 1 series. RWD in the damp or wet is not as quick as fwd on the road. Because you don't have space to exploit nature of rwd. There is simply no space to step the back out in a bend or corner.

Well by sorted i mean the little things that are usually missed in discussions like this. Main example is despite the S3 grip levels the built in understeer will automatically lessen your speed through corners.In the vrs the walk kit quells this to some degree allowing the ability to carry more speed through corners. Better brakes for that confidence when you have to brake. Uprated suspension be they dampers and/or springs even anti-roll bars. A quickshift,good tyres along with the suspension geometry set up. If you mean business the obligitory stage 2 map. To me that's a sorted Vrs that should hold it's own in most hot family car company. The mods i have mentioned many of the forum have. Anyone who thinks a standard vrs with a generic stage 1 will be a match for a well driven standard S3 is not being realistic. But is it not a nice feeling when people can't believe they can't leave or get beaten by skoda. It's worth owning a tuned skoda just for that feeling alone. Also when you add in the other great things about owning the octavia .....what more do you really need ? This is my first skoda and i'm lovin it .... this does not mean my next car will another one. But they will be one the list of possibilities.

Nah, don't be sorry. It's interesting to read people views. As to your original question with both cars being standard and both drivers of roughly the same ability the S3 would out perform the Vrs no question. But could not gaurentee which one would put a bigger smile on your face. When you start modding it all changes, a well sorted Vrs can easily play with a standard S3. Thing is how often would meet a standard S3?

Would only consider the diesel if doing big miles ...ie 10,000 + a year. Hope you get a good one.