snacr63

I had the same problem after an oil change. Turned out to be a faulty oil pressure switch, £7 from Euro car parts. 10 mins to fit it.

The climatronic has a self diagnostic feature. The flashing display indicates a fault and could be something simple like low gas pressure. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://pics.tdiclub.com/data/517/Climatronic_Self_Diagnostics.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwirlt-Bsqv9AhVSPcAKHRErAV4QFnoECA0QAQ&usg=AOvVaw2ip3Q98Pl8uvFkB6iJXonX

I had the same problem - intermittent light and bong sounding. It first started just after a service. I had to change the oil pressure sensor twice before it cleared the problem. Even the brand new one was faulty. Only £7 from gsf and took 10 minutes to do on the drive.

I had the same problem with my Fabia 1.4tdi. I bought a set of picks off of eBay for about £3 and it is possible to hook the sidelight holder and pull it backwards. No need to pull the wires as this may cause damage. The holders were very stiff and required a very strong pull but they do come out. There is no need to move the diesel filter.

I had the same problem a few years ago. This was the solution. I have just had the same problem on my 1.4 Greenline 08 plate. I took it to the local garage that I use for servicing and they suggested it was the gearchange cables that needed replacing. I decided to investigate on the internet myself and came across a number of videos on YouTube that suggested it was the gearchange relay shaft that was seizing up. This affects the left to right movement across the gate. I asked my son in law mechanic if he would take a look and this is what we found. 1. Disconnect battery. 2. Remove battery. 3. Remove air cleaner box to help with access. 4. Remove battery tray held on by 3 screws. This gives access to the gearchange linkages on top of the gearbox. 5. Disconnect the gearshift cable connectors which connect to the gearshift relay. On mine they just pushed on to the shaft although on some models there is a circlip holding it on. Do not move the springs on the end of the gear cables otherwise you will have to calibrate your gearchange afterwards. Try moving the gearchange from inside the car. If the cables are to blame it will feel stiff. Mine were free to move. 6. You should then be able to try and move the gearchange relay. It will be very stiff due to corrosion or dryness on the shaft. On some the shaft is metal and goes through plastic bushes at each end, and locked on the end by a circlip. I think mine has the updated one as there was no circlip on the end, just an expanding compression end which opens when it is in place. Rock the relay back and forth whilst compressing the end of the shaft with fine nosed pliers. The whole shaft is plastic and needs great care when forcing it out with a prybar but plenty of wd40 and gentle rocking back and forth will ease it out. Once out I could see that the plastic shaft was bone dry. 7. If you have any Emery tape just clean out the tunnel that the pivot goes through. 8. Lubricate the shaft of the relay with high melting point lithium grease. And push the relay back on. It should pop back in easily and move freely. 9. Pop the gearchange linkages back on. Test the gearchange from inside the car. It should be so much easier. 10. Put it all back together...simples. This video shows what it looks like. It took us about 90 minutes in total and could easily be done by a non mechanic (me). This problem started after being parked for 2 weeks at the airport whilst on holiday. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/460703-gearstick-stuck-not-moving-left-or-right/?do=findComment&comment=5170825

I had the same problem. It came back on when I banged the headlight lens. It happened on both sides intermittently. The problem was the bulbs themselves. Change the bulb and it will sort it.

https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/climatronic-diagnostic-mode-reference-guide.6935204/

Have a look at this link

I have just had the same problem on my 1.4 Greenline 08 plate. I took it to the local garage that I use for servicing and they suggested it was the gearchange cables that needed replacing. I decided to investigate on the internet myself and came across a number of videos on YouTube that suggested it was the gearchange relay shaft that was seizing up. This affects the left to right movement across the gate. I asked my son in law mechanic if he would take a look and this is what we found. 1. Disconnect battery. 2. Remove battery. 3. Remove air cleaner box to help with access. 4. Remove battery tray held on by 3 screws. This gives access to the gearchange linkages on top of the gearbox. 5. Disconnect the gearshift cable connectors which connect to the gearshift relay. On mine they just pushed on to the shaft although on some models there is a circlip holding it on. Do not move the springs on the end of the gear cables otherwise you will have to calibrate your gearchange afterwards. Try moving the gearchange from inside the car. If the cables are to blame it will feel stiff. Mine were free to move. 6. You should then be able to try and move the gearchange relay. It will be very stiff due to corrosion or dryness on the shaft. On some the shaft is metal and goes through plastic bushes at each end, and locked on the end by a circlip. I think mine has the updated one as there was no circlip on the end, just an expanding compression end which opens when it is in place. Rock the relay back and forth whilst compressing the end of the shaft with fine nosed pliers. The whole shaft is plastic and needs great care when forcing it out with a prybar but plenty of wd40 and gentle rocking back and forth will ease it out. Once out I could see that the plastic shaft was bone dry. 7. If you have any Emery tape just clean out the tunnel that the pivot goes through. 8. Lubricate the shaft of the relay with high melting point lithium grease. And push the relay back on. It should pop back in easily and move freely. 9. Pop the gearchange linkages back on. Test the gearchange from inside the car. It should be so much easier. 10. Put it all back together...simples. This video shows what it looks like. It took us about 90 minutes in total and could easily be done by a non mechanic (me). This problem started after being parked for 2 weeks at the airport whilst on holiday.

Thank you, I'll look for that one.

The coolant fan on my mk2 Fabia 1.4tdi is running constantly, even when the engine has stopped and the keys are out of the ignition. I noticed the other day having been on a short journey that the fan ran on after I had stopped and locked the car. The fan completely flattened the battery as a result. I suspect that the fan control relay is to blame. Has anyone ever replaced this? Is it an easy repair? Where is it located? Thanks.

My wifes Citroen had a similar problem and it took me a few days to figure it out. The accelerator pedal was catching on the ribbing of the rubber mat underneath causing it to stick on slightly. I pulled the mat further back and it sorted the problem.

I had the same problem on my fabia and it got gradually worse until I could put up with it no more and shelled out for a full set of discs and pads all round. The used ones showed little signs of wear and the pads were still good. All went well for a couple of weeks and then the problem began to reappear. So I began to investigate what other reasons could cause these symptoms and came up with the following article. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths I do not brake heavily so it appears the cause of the judder is a build up of friction material on the discs as mentioned in the article. I decided to test their theory and did a number of high speed stops to burn off the friction material.........and guess what...........it worked! I have now started to use my brakes more forcefully and the brake judder has now gone. Perhaps this may be your cause?

Keith, I think I have the same model as you i.e. an 08 plate 1.4tdi greenline. I bought the pressure sensor from my local dealer and it was about £50 incl postage. Simple to fit when you know how (about 15 mins) - took me a few minutes to find it but it is on the top of the engine so access is good. They do not need calibrating as I confirmed this with my local service dept prior to fitting it. Once fitted I started the engine and within 30 seconds the warning lights had gone out. Take a look at this thread http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/186137-dpf-talk/page-2 entry #49. Any problems just send me a message. John

have alook at this thread http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/186137-dpf-talk/page-2 I have Greenline I but if it is the same type of sensor they fail regularly. They areb easy to fit to the 1.4tdi engine - took me about 15mins.