Taylor93

Im following this too. From my investigation, alot more of the wiring into the cabin is usable than some may believe. Dont get me wrong, there are differences, but judging by the 1.8T Looms sat at home, they arent that big. Im talking put the 1.8T loom into the engine bay, then modifiy it to fit the Fabias pin out. on the connector block under the windscreen. I look forward to seeing how this pans out.

Ooohohohohhohohohohoho Id love to have a '73 GTV 2000, or a '71 GTAm but mega bucks!

Missus? Ha! No time for one of them in this ownership. I have been taking full advantage of her 7000 rpm redline

but unfortunately adam i think you will struggle to find an 1890's Mercedes motor wagen on the used market

i have 4 years on this girl, whos in better shape i dont know haha got another little project on the go (mk1 fabia elegance which needs a clutch) so the alfa will be behaving itself for a week

So about 20mpg. Not too bad for a GTV haha

Making up for lost time im driving her everywhere. However after thr sprinted driving Sunday, i am now looking at 300 miles to £80-90 of petrol LOL Love ittttttt!!!!!

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/340729-14-mpi-oil-pressure-switch-guide/ I made a guide on this

St Margarets bay this afternoon/evening. Was two things, 1) Tin ware catching on a cam pulley, 2) a bit dropped down behind the cambelt cover (was stuck against the alternator bracket) but that was the cause of the awful rattle last night which i mistook for the Alfa "Death Rattle" Im happy with it. the 120 miles i spent on the road today (bit of a coastal run) alot of it was A roads, almost no motorway driving, but i did find that it does seem a bit floaty, doesnt seem planted. Thats a sign of worn shocks, they do look a bit past it, and an Alfa specialist (who carried out a repair on the car last year under a different owner) did also say that they looked a bit worn. Perhaps a new set of shocks will be on order soon Massive change of mood given this morning i wanted to take my jerry can to the petrol station then go back and torch the car.... so its looking better

Well i had a "ting" noise.. I didnt like the sound of it, and those who experienced it before found it was due to the timing being slightly off. So i decided id give it another crack. And yes it was marginally off. Retimed and Retensioned it. Tensioning it was a PITA as space is an issue and with it being in the car its difficult. if it was out its quite easy to tension as you can easily see the indicator whereas im using a mirror to check and eliminate any paralax error. but obviously that wasnt enough... because on starting it, it sounds like i have the death rattle. exhausted and tired. so will confirm tomorrow, worst case is its 24 valves have decided to marry 6 pistons and a £1000 bill to fix it. Best case is the timing is fine but the cambelt is rubbing on the tinware, the tinware is in a crap condition so maybe slightly damaged and causing some nasty sounds

If this is taken on as a project, i am willing to help/assist the new owner with the wiring for a sensible price . I have all the wiring diagrams drawn out just a matter of completing the work.

or did i miss understand the question?

if you have 2V forward voltage per LED, then 5 in series would have a potential difference of 10V, with 20mA of constant current flowing through them. you have 3 of these series networks. so across each branch of 5 LED's there is a voltage drop of 10V, but the total current going through them is 60mA (20mA in 3 paths), this 60mA would then also flow through the series resistor. So if your powering it from 12V, you know where 10 of those 12 Volts are dissipated, so that leaves the remaining 2V to be dissipated at the series resistor. Apply Ohms Law, Voltage/Current = Resistance. Therefore Desired Resistor is 2 Volts / 60 mA = 2 Volts / 0.06 Amps (use SI units) = 33.33 Ohms per each 15 LED group. so a 33 Ohm resistor would be fine. Cheap ones tend to be +/- 10% so will be close enough for this. Lower resistance will mean brighter but will burn out the LED's, Higher resistance will dim them.

1999/2000? I was 6/7... So it would have been a Nissan Skyline R34 GTR... On Gran Turismo Of course

In my local area there are "cars for under £XXX" pages on facebook, i just posted on there asking for quotes when scrapping my old 1.3 Ford Fiesta. Scrapped it about July/August time and got £140 for it. He came over looked to see if it had its Cat, it didnt start/run so he was happy, paid me then i left the car key in the ignition with the window open. We filled out the V5 scrap bit, then we sent it off. I went to work the next day and came home and it was gone.

Just like to add that Y1 FGF is in good nick, last year had a new down pipe including cat and bit of a clean up. its in good condition for its age and is a baragin for 500 quid!

For the sake of the car i hope her ass wasnt too firm, the jeans could scratch the paint I like the CSCC plan, would be epic to get into the international series and go out to Spa.

buying a set of vRS hubs and a normal 1.4 16v is cheaper than buying a whole vRS and breaking it for bits anyway, thats for another thread. come on Richard when are you buying your next FGF?

Diesels have fuel radiators/heaters under the car, for simplicity, of the fuel rails the 1.4 16v is ideal as it has the fuel return etc. However it along with the 1.2 does have a front mounted exhaust so the subframe is the wrong shape. If i were doing it i would start with a 1.4 16V and swap the subframe and running gear from polo/ibiza. I reckon the wiring can be modded at the bulkhead rather than swapping the entire loom over.

^ This that way you can easily make a Cayenne Orange 1.8T or any other unusual colours haha

perfect place to start working on it obviously, many hands make light work, we would have it done in a day hahah

id have custom driveshafts over bodywork. i dont have the patience for that.

hopefully not just the camera, but the trailer too

MoT is still going ahead for tomorrow. Although the reverse light switch has decided to not play ball. Wasnt working, removed it, cleaned it, it worked, fitted it to the car it worked, drive home and its stopped working lol

An emotional roller coaster tonight. Loosing hope i went back to basics. Within 5 minutes i Found all 6 coil packs are grounded at thr same point, a nut hidden by general view by the loom. It sparked blue (while the engine was runninh) and at that point i knew my problem Tightened it up and misfire gone! Whooooooooooo But the smoother running is now allowing me to hear a worrying noise. Sounds like the cambelt is rubbing the cambelt cover at the bottom. The belt csnt be moved without removing tension. Which means i need to refit the cam lockd dti down cylinder number 1 etc But i reckon i will have it done in a weekend at a relaxed pace May need a new cambelt depending on how much its rubbed. Or possibly a tensioner. Failed ones are known for going at an angle and forcing the belt into the covers. New parts? Ha! Its not tom jones for new parts to come with problems. Even though they are SKF etc.