wokwon

I re-uploaded it to this post:

Diesel engine doesn't generate hot water very quickly, this one provides more immediate warmth. Particularly useful here in AU where we could not option the heated windscreen. I also had a time when my DSG thermostat stuck open and the PTC was able to supplement the heat output. This was during a winter holiday in Tasmania, the coldest part of our country. No settings to adjust, but the device itself controls the output using presumably PWM as there are a bunch of large MOSFETs in the controller. The vehicle also regulates the output with regard to other electrical consumers, e.g. if electrical output is in demand the PTC element is down-regulated in favor of other consumers. It is disabled when the water temperature reaches 75degC. It also self-regulates, as is natural with PTC elements however the 'regulating' temperature of these elements is not published as far as I know. Easier wiring. The non-CAN one needs 2 relays installed and connections from the HVAC controller to the relay carrier, along with heavy wiring back from the relay carrier to the element (there are three wires, ground, low and high power). The CAN one only needs one wire run from the engine bay, a heavy power supply. The GND is already inside. The CAN is available at the HVAC controller. It's much easier to install. I suppose if one wanted a more DIY install, the non-CAN item would be easier as you just need to get switched 80A power to it somehow (I'd guess solid state relay would be simplest). That's entirely up to you. If you're happy with your heater, then you don't need it. If you curse at the amount of time it takes to defrost your windscreen then it might be worth it to you.

Probably R4 or R11

The arch trim piece at rear, I've broken multiple clips off the black plastic piece when removing it. Be very very gentle when prising it off.

I'd say boost leak based on that description. This should also throw a EPC light and code if it's enough of a leak. So start by checking all of the intake path between the turbo and the manifold.

I kept this one from 2008 as I found it interesting, it seems to largely match what the Superb does. Despite the file name it is in English. Adaptivni_svetlomety_AFS_ENG_07_2008.pdf

Yes all three are on the same fuse. See below diagrams. Take them with a grain of salt, these diagrams are from 2017 and VAG likes to change things all the time, especially which fuse does what. Screenshot 1: Fuse 40 definition states sockets U1, U5, U9. and U18. Screenshot 2: You can see the fuse "SC40" connects at "B150" to three points on another diagram, points 436, 443 and 447. The numbers in the boxes refer to the numbers at the bottom of the page; you find the page with the numbers and that's where the lines reappear. Screenshot 3: The three red/green lines reappear, going to U1, U5 and U18. U18 is the one in the luggage compartment. Screenshot 3 also doesn't explain that: U and U1 are the same thing, but it depends on the smokers pack. If smokers pack installed, then you get a lighter socket with the heated element. Otherwise it's just a power socket. U5 and U9, same as U and U1 above. U18 - no option to light a ciggy, just a power socket. If you have the U13 230V socket in the middle row seats, then that's a different fuse and the other pages of the diagram imply that both the 12V and 230V outlet there are on fuse 46 but the front and luggage ones remain on fuse 40. Here is the fuse box. See fuse 40 (highlighted yellow) has room to move down (red marking) which is different to all the other fuses around it. To repeat, not all cars had the metal contacts fitted in the lower position. Mine did not. You can check yours with a flashlight.

Look at the fuse box behind the glove compartment.. The fuse for the lighter circuits (can't remember the number). You'll see this fuse holder position is slightly different than the nearby ones, there is a 2nd position where you can move it halfway down. The lower position will make the sockets switched (terminal 15), the upper position is always on (terminal 30). In some markets, the lower position won't have the metal contacts in there. Here in AU the contacts weren't there. It's simple to buy the contact (I think it was part number 927839 but I'm not totally sure on this) and enable the lower position. I just ran a wire at the rear of the fuse box from an upper fuse on T15 down to that lower position contact and now I can change it as desired from T15 to T30. Sorry this is all vague, I didn't document or take any pictures of this process. I recall it was a pain working in the tight space behind the glove box. TLDR: Look and see if your fuse box already has the extra contact in the lower position for the lighter socket and if so it will be easy.

@blakep82 Have a read through my writeup (below) There is a PDF linked in the comment with instructions. I retrofitted the PTC heater to my 2013 3T Combi.

It's called "optical" because it comes up on the head unit as a picture with lines. Self parking still uses ultrasonic sensors. @hoffren you need a scan by VAS or VCDS to get more information. But it sounds like you may have a cabling problem if you're getting bulb out messages with no bulb failures.

I never managed to figure out how it knows which wheel is which. There are measuring blocks in the module that list things like signal strength and 'calculated distance' etc. I looked into it but never found a decisive answer on how VAG does it. I found generally across manufacturers there are four ways: - Direct assignment, i.e. you register the sensor in the position - Antennae in each wheel arch liner that is for that one sensor (I think FCA does this) - Using the ABS modules at each wheel to wake up the sensor on demand to figure out which is which - Some other sort of magic. Anyway all the howto's I read for VAG said put it in the rear, so that's what I did. In my picture in my thread, it was hard against the rear bumper-sheetmetal-bit and I had issues with the front-left (furthest away) dropping out sometimes, particularly when roads are wet. I moved the module forward a little bit with a 3dprinted bracket and it's been mint ever since. The other big problem I had was purchasing Chinese sensors, they all failed after about 18 months. I replaced with genuine Huf sensors and they've all lasted > 3 years now. In terms of why do it, before I had direct TPMS I checked the tyre pressures every week manually. With direct TPMS now I can check whenever I want without mucking around. Still have to haul out the spare wheel every month though so it's not a total solution. Could get standalone TPMS for that I guess but it's less important to me as I also carry a compressor anyway.

I have done this. I put the receiver under the rear bumper, drivers side. You do need ODIS-E to program the module once, as it will not come with appropriate settings. Once ODIS-E'd, you can then just use VCDS to adjust. My thread here:

To close this one out, I sent two requests to Skoda via their web form. Both never received a response but the map updates are back for my unit as of some time last week on this address: https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ I downloaded the latest one and it's updating now.

I do, I'll put it back in if/when I sell the car.

My dealer here (Eastside Skoda in Nunawading) just quoted $1,320 AUD for just the fronts. I told them "yeah, nah". I'll DIY it.