wokwon

I re-uploaded it to this post:

Diesel engine doesn't generate hot water very quickly, this one provides more immediate warmth. Particularly useful here in AU where we could not option the heated windscreen. I also had a time when my DSG thermostat stuck open and the PTC was able to supplement the heat output. This was during a winter holiday in Tasmania, the coldest part of our country. No settings to adjust, but the device itself controls the output using presumably PWM as there are a bunch of large MOSFETs in the controller. The vehicle also regulates the output with regard to other electrical consumers, e.g. if electrical output is in demand the PTC element is down-regulated in favor of other consumers. It is disabled when the water temperature reaches 75degC. It also self-regulates, as is natural with PTC elements however the 'regulating' temperature of these elements is not published as far as I know. Easier wiring. The non-CAN one needs 2 relays installed and connections from the HVAC controller to the relay carrier, along with heavy wiring back from the relay carrier to the element (there are three wires, ground, low and high power). The CAN one only needs one wire run from the engine bay, a heavy power supply. The GND is already inside. The CAN is available at the HVAC controller. It's much easier to install. I suppose if one wanted a more DIY install, the non-CAN item would be easier as you just need to get switched 80A power to it somehow (I'd guess solid state relay would be simplest). That's entirely up to you. If you're happy with your heater, then you don't need it. If you curse at the amount of time it takes to defrost your windscreen then it might be worth it to you.

Probably R4 or R11

The arch trim piece at rear, I've broken multiple clips off the black plastic piece when removing it. Be very very gentle when prising it off.

I'd say boost leak based on that description. This should also throw a EPC light and code if it's enough of a leak. So start by checking all of the intake path between the turbo and the manifold.

I kept this one from 2008 as I found it interesting, it seems to largely match what the Superb does. Despite the file name it is in English. Adaptivni_svetlomety_AFS_ENG_07_2008.pdf

Yes all three are on the same fuse. See below diagrams. Take them with a grain of salt, these diagrams are from 2017 and VAG likes to change things all the time, especially which fuse does what. Screenshot 1: Fuse 40 definition states sockets U1, U5, U9. and U18. Screenshot 2: You can see the fuse "SC40" connects at "B150" to three points on another diagram, points 436, 443 and 447. The numbers in the boxes refer to the numbers at the bottom of the page; you find the page with the numbers and that's where the lines reappear. Screenshot 3: The three red/green lines reappear, going to U1, U5 and U18. U18 is the one in the luggage compartment. Screenshot 3 also doesn't explain that: U and U1 are the same thing, but it depends on the smokers pack. If smokers pack installed, then you get a lighter socket with the heated element. Otherwise it's just a power socket. U5 and U9, same as U and U1 above. U18 - no option to light a ciggy, just a power socket. If you have the U13 230V socket in the middle row seats, then that's a different fuse and the other pages of the diagram imply that both the 12V and 230V outlet there are on fuse 46 but the front and luggage ones remain on fuse 40. Here is the fuse box. See fuse 40 (highlighted yellow) has room to move down (red marking) which is different to all the other fuses around it. To repeat, not all cars had the metal contacts fitted in the lower position. Mine did not. You can check yours with a flashlight.

Look at the fuse box behind the glove compartment.. The fuse for the lighter circuits (can't remember the number). You'll see this fuse holder position is slightly different than the nearby ones, there is a 2nd position where you can move it halfway down. The lower position will make the sockets switched (terminal 15), the upper position is always on (terminal 30). In some markets, the lower position won't have the metal contacts in there. Here in AU the contacts weren't there. It's simple to buy the contact (I think it was part number 927839 but I'm not totally sure on this) and enable the lower position. I just ran a wire at the rear of the fuse box from an upper fuse on T15 down to that lower position contact and now I can change it as desired from T15 to T30. Sorry this is all vague, I didn't document or take any pictures of this process. I recall it was a pain working in the tight space behind the glove box. TLDR: Look and see if your fuse box already has the extra contact in the lower position for the lighter socket and if so it will be easy.

@blakep82 Have a read through my writeup (below) There is a PDF linked in the comment with instructions. I retrofitted the PTC heater to my 2013 3T Combi.

It's called "optical" because it comes up on the head unit as a picture with lines. Self parking still uses ultrasonic sensors. @hoffren you need a scan by VAS or VCDS to get more information. But it sounds like you may have a cabling problem if you're getting bulb out messages with no bulb failures.

I never managed to figure out how it knows which wheel is which. There are measuring blocks in the module that list things like signal strength and 'calculated distance' etc. I looked into it but never found a decisive answer on how VAG does it. I found generally across manufacturers there are four ways: - Direct assignment, i.e. you register the sensor in the position - Antennae in each wheel arch liner that is for that one sensor (I think FCA does this) - Using the ABS modules at each wheel to wake up the sensor on demand to figure out which is which - Some other sort of magic. Anyway all the howto's I read for VAG said put it in the rear, so that's what I did. In my picture in my thread, it was hard against the rear bumper-sheetmetal-bit and I had issues with the front-left (furthest away) dropping out sometimes, particularly when roads are wet. I moved the module forward a little bit with a 3dprinted bracket and it's been mint ever since. The other big problem I had was purchasing Chinese sensors, they all failed after about 18 months. I replaced with genuine Huf sensors and they've all lasted > 3 years now. In terms of why do it, before I had direct TPMS I checked the tyre pressures every week manually. With direct TPMS now I can check whenever I want without mucking around. Still have to haul out the spare wheel every month though so it's not a total solution. Could get standalone TPMS for that I guess but it's less important to me as I also carry a compressor anyway.

I have done this. I put the receiver under the rear bumper, drivers side. You do need ODIS-E to program the module once, as it will not come with appropriate settings. Once ODIS-E'd, you can then just use VCDS to adjust. My thread here:

To close this one out, I sent two requests to Skoda via their web form. Both never received a response but the map updates are back for my unit as of some time last week on this address: https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ I downloaded the latest one and it's updating now.

I do, I'll put it back in if/when I sell the car.

My dealer here (Eastside Skoda in Nunawading) just quoted $1,320 AUD for just the fronts. I told them "yeah, nah". I'll DIY it.

Sunroof? Your drains are blocked. This forum has some suggestions around it, try the search term 'sunroof drains'. I used an air compressor on mine with limit set to 30PSI.

My Kodiaq (2nd MY19 I've owned) has MIB 2, not MIB2.5. I think some time in 2020 the AU models changed to MIB2.5 as I had a loan car during a service with that awful spinny circle interface thingy. That's a shame about the maps, I'll look at the BMW solution, thanks.

MY19 Kodiaq in Australian market. I used to occasionally go to https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ but recently when I've done that and put the VIN in, I get a "There were no maps for the VIN". I don't even get offered the older maps. Does anyone know if VAG has stopped producing updates for the MIB2? I'll ask the dealer at next service but they're generally pretty clueless and usually more occupied with leaving snarky comments on the service record about my modifications.

Our 2013 3T Superb Elegance Combi came with the RNS-510 (Columbus) and the amplifier under the passenger seat. I added a Tiguan handle reversing camera about 6 months into ownership. The RNS-510 is really showing it's age so it seemed like time for an update. I gambled on the Eonon Q53Pro as it claimed to 'Work with Fender Audio' which in some markets is what Volkswagen calls the amplifier package. Turns out, yes it does, with no config needed. The unit works well: - Android Auto and Carplay work fine, flawlessly in wireless mode. The Android Auto seems to be a bit flakey in the wired mode but Carplay was fine in wired mode. - Worked with the amp, no special wiring or adapters other than what was supplied needed - Came with a dual-fakra socket to handle the dual radio antennas (some reviews mentioned that it needed a diversity adapter as it had only one antenna socket, my unit came with the adapter) - It has configurable sleep. I set it to 1-day, so as long as the car is driven within 24 hours start-up is instant. Otherwise startup takes around 30 seconds - The reversing camera, I got the A0580 converter and it just works. The old camera looks low-def on the large screen of this unit when it looked fine on the (comparatively) tiny screen of the RNS-510. I might install the supplied Analogue High Def camera as that should have a better picture and in theory will be able to show maneuvering lines. - Steering wheel controls work fine. The volume can be a bit laggy some times but it does work. Skip forward and back are fine. - Ultrasonic sensors work fine and have the car-info on screen, both front and rear - Bright/dark etc works automatically with headlights. Unfortunately this unit only has red-button illumination. I understand the newer unit has configurable button color - The mic that came with it for hands-free is ok but not great. I'll probably make a near-field cancellation circuit and replace with that. - Sound quality is fine and super-configurable. The tired 10 speakers in that car sound way better than they did on the RNS-510. An oddity is that there is no working front-rear fader. Fading to the rear results in no sound at all. It's not a deal-breaker for me. Yes, rear speakers are working. Bonus is there is a sub-out which I might make use of as I have a Blaupunkt active sub from two cars ago sitting in the garage. It came with a GPS patch antenna, but I got a Fakra to SMA adapter so I could use the inbuilt roof antenna. It works 100% I used VCDS to code out the old nav unit and bluetooth unit. This wasn't needed for correct operation, it was just flagging fault codes in the logs. Downsides (but none are deal breakers for me): - You can't turn it on without ignition being on. Once ign on, it will stay on until drivers door is opened. - Interface is wildly inconsistent both with styling between functions and some odd translations - Charging from the car-play USB port is very slow. I don't use it now, I use a proper QC capable charger and let Android Auto/Carplay be wireless - No 4g modem in this one. The newer unit does have this. - No SD card slot, although it has a spare USB port and you could plug mass-storage into this if you wanted. - Bluetooth data sharing: It seems to be capable of using the data from my phone via bluetooth, but it stops when the Android Auto connects and then to get it working again needs to be toggled and reconnected. - Fuel remaining is mistranslated as "Remained Oil". This is technically correct I guess as Diesel is fuel-oil - It does support pop-up of HVAC settings, but it randomly pops up when no adjustment has been made. I turned it off as the HVAC panel shows everything you need to know anyway - It supports a pop-up for door-open status, but it shows a generic drivers door open picture regardless of door and covers up the interface so you can't do anything else. I turned it off - The row of capacitive buttons below the screen are super-sensitive and easy to mis-press if you're trying to hit an on-screen button near the bottom of the screen. - I've not figured out how to set the AM radio to 9kHz channel spacings yet. Have emailed support to ask. - The old AUX port and the weird iPod connector thingy in the centre storage obviously doesn't work any more as it's not connected to anything. I don't think I ever used this anyway. Oddly, my iPod classic 160GB was still in there, plugged in and still worked. I forgot about it probably 5 years ago. - The volume control is a bit coarse. This may be an artifact of having the under seat amp, but the jumps between levels are significant. Some pics of the unit installed. It does poke out a bit around the edges but not obnoxiously so. So the point of this post is, if you're sick of your RNS-510 but like me were worried about the under seat amp, don't be. This unit was around $500 Australian Dollarydoos including the GPS antenna adapter and the camera adapter.

Interesting, thanks. Mine came pre-assembled. Makes me wonder now if they were counterfeit.

The valve stem on the ones I ordered are part of the sensors. As far as I can tell the valves themselves are just bog standard schrader valves screwed into the stem. If you do find out that they are a variant of the standard schrader valve please do update this thread as I'd like to know that.

I retrofitted the TPMS to my Skodiaq, but I've used 5Q0907275 sensors. I did make the mistake once of choosing Chinese clones of them and they all failed (all 4) within about 9 months. Since then I've replaced them all with branded (Huf) units which have all lasted. The failure mode was that they'd start reporting 0psi for a short time which would get longer and longer until they stop reporting completely. The ebay items for these sensors claim these part numbers are interchangeable although I've not validated it: 5Q0907275B,5Q0907275C,3AA998275,5Q0998270 I just change them myself when they failed as I have a bead breaker and some 600mm tyre irons. The TPMS module that I fitted to the car was 5Q0907273B; not sure if different modules have different sensor requirements (regional frequencies maybe).

Presumably they mean a 'clean display mode'. My home alarm panel has this, where you start the mode and touches are not registered for 30 seconds while you wipe the display.

I got a third party one from AliExpress that fitted perfectly and came with the correct clips. The link is now dead but you might want to search there too.

It's probably the whole door card. There are two actual LED emitters in the middle, each one feeds into a light pipe that spreads it out. Sounds like one of the emitters has failed. If they can just replace the emitter (it's a little PCB) great, but not sure it has a single SKU which might mean the whole card gets replaced. For the modules: See my post here: