wokwon

Do you have a sunroof? If so, the drains are blocked or the drain tubes have detached. It's happened to me twice. I clean them out 4 times per year now.

My dealer quoted $1300AUD just for front pads and disks. Told them no and DIY'd it. Might have been because I had a prepaid service pack on the car so the service was otherwise paid for; they might have been trying to recoup that thin margin by making an ambit claim for the brakes.

Got a brand new gateway from Ebay. Appeared to be third-shift product as it had the proper label but the Audi/VW logo was missing on the label. Device itself works fine. Did have a minor shock where pretty much every module in the car showed in the gateway as 'module incorrectly coded'. Car started and ran fine. The root cause turned out to be the new gateway came OOB coded as left-hand drive and all my other modules are coded right-hand drive. Correcting it in the gateway made all the errors go away and it just worked. Have stored the Octavia one in case something similar happens again.

Yes before every winter now we do it. The front ones I poke the innards of a bowden cable down from outside and then use the air compressor with the regulator wound down to minimum (~30psi). The rear ones are easy, just drop down the rear headliner and can take the tubes off the barbs.

So to close this off it turned out it was water ingress to the CAN gateway. Apparently when the sunroof drains block, water runs down the inside of the drivers side A pillar. The CAN Gateway is apparently mounted connector side up so it's basically a bottle with an open top. The water runs down the cabling and fills up the plastic casing and corrodes the board. At least it's a cheap-ish part to replace. The dealer stuck a second hand one in from an Octavia for now, which means everything works except the sunroof as the Octavia doesn't have LIN-bus sunroof. I'll get the appropriate one for the Superb from ebay and replace it myself. Learnings: Turns out the cluster-dead thing can be proven by just pressing the reset/set button on the cluster. Even without CAN it will wake up then. You can't replace the start/stop button if you can't unlock the steering wheel, as you need to rotate it 90deg to expose the cover screws. There doesn't appear to be a procedure to override/unlock the steering wheel if the module doesn't do it. The trim around the gear stick requires a surprising amount of force to remove to expose the gearstick-unlock-yellow-button-thing. VW master techs are worth their weight in platinum. VW 'repair wires' are absurdly over priced.

Update: - All fuses fine, including the ones in the engine bay fuse compartment - Disconnected battery for 10 mins, reconnected, no change - The hazard lights work fine, but the green indicators <-- and --> in the cluster do not illuminate with the hazards which is odd. Hoping it's not a cluster fail as that will be extremely expensive.

2013 Skoda Superb 2 Combi at approx 180,000km. Worked fine yesterday. Today, no start. Doors unlock fine. Upon opening the drivers door, the steering wheel did not make its normal unlock noise. Pressing start/stop button does not light up the dash or turn on any power. Pressing start/stop button with the keyfob, same as above. Battery fine, resting at 12.3V. Terminals clean. I still need to: Inspect fuses inside and in the engine bay I will: Order a Kessy button as apparently they can fail Problem: Cannot scan with VCDS as the car won't turn on the power Anyone seen this before? Found plenty of searches where the start/stop button starts to become unreliable but this one was all of a sudden. I'm hoping it's not the entry/auth module as I think you need a dealer to code that one.

Recommend wedge halogen lamp, but the blue tinted ones. Mine came with those from factory and they are the same colour as the HID lights. Currently still original bulbs from 2013. I've not tried to replace the sidelights with LEDs as I rely on the DRL lights next to the fogs (I did replace those with LEDs).

Hi @Carlston do you have same info for the rears, I'm coming up for those soonish. I put Bosch pads on the front last time and the dealer made a snarky note on the service sheet "aftermarket brake pads fitted". This was after I refused their quote for AUD$1300 for front discs and pads.

Scan with VCDS. My Superb 2 had the servo that drives the recirculate flap fail in an open poisition (actually the feedback part of the servo failed, not the motor). This meant that the outside air was selected 50% all the time. This was visible in VCDS as follows: 3 Faults Found: 9472881 - Motor for Fresh Air / Recirculated Air Flap B108B 71 [009] - Actuator stuck Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 12 Mileage: 127565 km Date: 2018.07.28 Time: 00:08:00 9472882 - Motor for Fresh Air / Recirculated Air Flap B108B 54 [009] - Missing Calibration / Basic Setting Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 12 Mileage: 127565 km Date: 2018.07.28 Time: 00:08:00 9476881 - Position Sensor for Fresh/Recirculated Flap Motor B109B 11 [008] - Short to Ground Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 5 Reset counter: 52 Mileage: 127565 km Date: 2018.07.28 Time: 00:08:00 I've noticed that when the car is switched off, it closes the recirculate flap (i.e. selects inside only air). I assume when the Climatronic is set to off the same thing happens, but I've never looked. My theory there is: - If selecting Clima off closes the outside air flap, and - Yours isn't working, then - You're getting outside air all the time

I re-uploaded it to this post:

Diesel engine doesn't generate hot water very quickly, this one provides more immediate warmth. Particularly useful here in AU where we could not option the heated windscreen. I also had a time when my DSG thermostat stuck open and the PTC was able to supplement the heat output. This was during a winter holiday in Tasmania, the coldest part of our country. No settings to adjust, but the device itself controls the output using presumably PWM as there are a bunch of large MOSFETs in the controller. The vehicle also regulates the output with regard to other electrical consumers, e.g. if electrical output is in demand the PTC element is down-regulated in favor of other consumers. It is disabled when the water temperature reaches 75degC. It also self-regulates, as is natural with PTC elements however the 'regulating' temperature of these elements is not published as far as I know. Easier wiring. The non-CAN one needs 2 relays installed and connections from the HVAC controller to the relay carrier, along with heavy wiring back from the relay carrier to the element (there are three wires, ground, low and high power). The CAN one only needs one wire run from the engine bay, a heavy power supply. The GND is already inside. The CAN is available at the HVAC controller. It's much easier to install. I suppose if one wanted a more DIY install, the non-CAN item would be easier as you just need to get switched 80A power to it somehow (I'd guess solid state relay would be simplest). That's entirely up to you. If you're happy with your heater, then you don't need it. If you curse at the amount of time it takes to defrost your windscreen then it might be worth it to you.

Probably R4 or R11

The arch trim piece at rear, I've broken multiple clips off the black plastic piece when removing it. Be very very gentle when prising it off.

I'd say boost leak based on that description. This should also throw a EPC light and code if it's enough of a leak. So start by checking all of the intake path between the turbo and the manifold.

I kept this one from 2008 as I found it interesting, it seems to largely match what the Superb does. Despite the file name it is in English. Adaptivni_svetlomety_AFS_ENG_07_2008.pdf

Yes all three are on the same fuse. See below diagrams. Take them with a grain of salt, these diagrams are from 2017 and VAG likes to change things all the time, especially which fuse does what. Screenshot 1: Fuse 40 definition states sockets U1, U5, U9. and U18. Screenshot 2: You can see the fuse "SC40" connects at "B150" to three points on another diagram, points 436, 443 and 447. The numbers in the boxes refer to the numbers at the bottom of the page; you find the page with the numbers and that's where the lines reappear. Screenshot 3: The three red/green lines reappear, going to U1, U5 and U18. U18 is the one in the luggage compartment. Screenshot 3 also doesn't explain that: U and U1 are the same thing, but it depends on the smokers pack. If smokers pack installed, then you get a lighter socket with the heated element. Otherwise it's just a power socket. U5 and U9, same as U and U1 above. U18 - no option to light a ciggy, just a power socket. If you have the U13 230V socket in the middle row seats, then that's a different fuse and the other pages of the diagram imply that both the 12V and 230V outlet there are on fuse 46 but the front and luggage ones remain on fuse 40. Here is the fuse box. See fuse 40 (highlighted yellow) has room to move down (red marking) which is different to all the other fuses around it. To repeat, not all cars had the metal contacts fitted in the lower position. Mine did not. You can check yours with a flashlight.

Look at the fuse box behind the glove compartment.. The fuse for the lighter circuits (can't remember the number). You'll see this fuse holder position is slightly different than the nearby ones, there is a 2nd position where you can move it halfway down. The lower position will make the sockets switched (terminal 15), the upper position is always on (terminal 30). In some markets, the lower position won't have the metal contacts in there. Here in AU the contacts weren't there. It's simple to buy the contact (I think it was part number 927839 but I'm not totally sure on this) and enable the lower position. I just ran a wire at the rear of the fuse box from an upper fuse on T15 down to that lower position contact and now I can change it as desired from T15 to T30. Sorry this is all vague, I didn't document or take any pictures of this process. I recall it was a pain working in the tight space behind the glove box. TLDR: Look and see if your fuse box already has the extra contact in the lower position for the lighter socket and if so it will be easy.

@blakep82 Have a read through my writeup (below) There is a PDF linked in the comment with instructions. I retrofitted the PTC heater to my 2013 3T Combi.

It's called "optical" because it comes up on the head unit as a picture with lines. Self parking still uses ultrasonic sensors. @hoffren you need a scan by VAS or VCDS to get more information. But it sounds like you may have a cabling problem if you're getting bulb out messages with no bulb failures.

I never managed to figure out how it knows which wheel is which. There are measuring blocks in the module that list things like signal strength and 'calculated distance' etc. I looked into it but never found a decisive answer on how VAG does it. I found generally across manufacturers there are four ways: - Direct assignment, i.e. you register the sensor in the position - Antennae in each wheel arch liner that is for that one sensor (I think FCA does this) - Using the ABS modules at each wheel to wake up the sensor on demand to figure out which is which - Some other sort of magic. Anyway all the howto's I read for VAG said put it in the rear, so that's what I did. In my picture in my thread, it was hard against the rear bumper-sheetmetal-bit and I had issues with the front-left (furthest away) dropping out sometimes, particularly when roads are wet. I moved the module forward a little bit with a 3dprinted bracket and it's been mint ever since. The other big problem I had was purchasing Chinese sensors, they all failed after about 18 months. I replaced with genuine Huf sensors and they've all lasted > 3 years now. In terms of why do it, before I had direct TPMS I checked the tyre pressures every week manually. With direct TPMS now I can check whenever I want without mucking around. Still have to haul out the spare wheel every month though so it's not a total solution. Could get standalone TPMS for that I guess but it's less important to me as I also carry a compressor anyway.

I have done this. I put the receiver under the rear bumper, drivers side. You do need ODIS-E to program the module once, as it will not come with appropriate settings. Once ODIS-E'd, you can then just use VCDS to adjust. My thread here:

To close this one out, I sent two requests to Skoda via their web form. Both never received a response but the map updates are back for my unit as of some time last week on this address: https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ I downloaded the latest one and it's updating now.

I do, I'll put it back in if/when I sell the car.

My dealer here (Eastside Skoda in Nunawading) just quoted $1,320 AUD for just the fronts. I told them "yeah, nah". I'll DIY it.