GREEBO_22

when i went to mib-helper 0. Validating data... Provided data: MEN2_EU_VWGPX_P1470L is valid. Jump to: FW, maps, RSDB, PPOI, Activator, VIM, SW, tools, kits. 1. Firmware details: Generation and tier: MIB2 Entry Region: Europe Brand: Volkswagen Version: ???? Trade Name: unknown Firmware version: P1470L (MU: 0965) Firmware type: Production Hardware vendor: LG 2. Latest available firmware updates: Latest official firmware update: MEN2_EU_VWGPX_P8050L (MU: 8742, details). Latest possible firmware update: MEN2_EU_VWGPX_P8050L (MU: 8742, details). Download firmware updates from here. External amplifier (Bose, Bang&Olufsen) might need dataset after update. Fix "B201A - Checking SVM" fault after update here.

Google mib-helper then click on "enter sw train" put in your sw version see whats availible download as much as you can as the site is regually off line and when see your google results you will see youtube clips to help you out

@JayLibove looking at your eBay link, the items being posted from Shenzhen, China, so more than likely the person is just reselling it from AliExpress quick Google on their site comes up with similar items for a lot cheaper but I don’t know how the price would change for your location

I bought these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006419747360.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.26.21ef1802RN8g9I they fit in the rear of my boot near the back seat (2017 Superb Hatchback) and i got a spare set thinking about cutting a couple of holes in the tailgate trim and fitting them into the tailgate so once the tailgate is open light shines down i later realised that id need a switch, so started looking for 12v led lights with a built in switch, these look promising as cutting 2 round holes will be tidyer than trying to cut straight lines, but i dont know how bright they would be https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165754443736 i was thinking of wiring the led lights into the wiring for the numberplate lights, as the extra lights would be powered off during the day,

One “SMALL” project done ??? I’d love to know what other “small” projects you are thinking about doing And I’d love to know how to do the jobs myself too ( or if you’re thinking of selling the kits),,, love to try the massage chair too

My mistake… thought we were talking about Skoda drivers, not BMW drivers 😜

i had a simular problem when fitting a carplay unit to my mums DS3 the base was flat and the dash was curved, i used a dremal and stanley knife to cut a couple of lines parlualy through the baseand then used a cigar lighter ( looks like a mini blow torch) to heat the plastic and bend it to the angle of the dash, the supplied tape stuck down much better

i was under the impression that Lane Assist "pulls you back" into your lane if you unintentionally drift out of your lane, so if you intend to cross into another lane and indicate before starting to move into the next lane it will allow you to complete the manovure

As I said I don’t know the layout of your car, so don’t know where your intercooler or coolers are, my Exeo was the 170 BHP so had two rather than one in front of the passenger wheel and a connecting pipe in front of the drivers wheel, it was a drivers one that gone, in my case… so not sure if it helps, but if it gives you something else to check out then it may give you some ideas Good luck

While not knowing your car it reminds me a bit about my old Seat Exeo, it had 2 intercoolers in front of the front wheels in the bumper from time to time there was a whooshing noise but not all the time, i couldn’t work out where the noise was coming from until the seal popped out between the plastic and the aluminium cooler when it gave up completely the car lost all boost (on the M6 in the right had lane while overtaking) and went into limphome mode then i could rally hear the noise while driving but not on tic over,, i ended up getting a stick on the accelerator to try and replicate "driving at speed" might be worth a look if the noise is coming from the intercooler area

yep thats true for most things, i was going to do that for the dash cam, but when i realised that the ciggerette sockets were perm live and that i could add one "jumper wire" and a fuse to make the ciggerette sockets ignition live ( and i was taking out the glovebox to put the wiring in for the RVC) on my previous car i needed more fused items so i used a piggy back fuse to trigger a relay to an additional 6G fuse box😇

Well I’ve finally been able to start playing with the car ,, after trying to find out what fuses do what I started looking on eBay, saw a fuse box for a 2017 Superb for £10 so bought it… I worked out if I made a Y piece out of 3 of the wires from the eBay fuse box and using another wire I could sort out the little niggles So by I made a Y piece about 4“ long and pushed the terminals into the 3 yellow Xs and then put another terminal with a longer wire ( which I put a bullet connector on into the blue X This meant I could move the 20a down and make the cigarette sockets in the car Ignition live instead of constantly live, The X next to the 10a fuse is the ignition supply so I put a 25a fuse in to power the cigarette sockets and the other connector which will supply the dash cam

@ironduke87 just wondering where abouts you are (I’m in the Midlands) and if you still had the 18” insert??

Well, I haven’t found out why the iPhone wouldn’t reconnect via USB on CarPlay,, I’m assuming some sort of driver issue,, I received a replacement dongle with a different firmware than the previous one ( I think from a different seller, but I’m not sure it’s hard to tell on online nowadays) plug that in phone connected up straight away and it’s all working via Bluetooth

This is the dongle I mentioned ( but forgot to add image)