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xpower

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    2020 Tesla Model 3 performance
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  1. You need to mimic the resistance of the speaker. for this you need a 7.5 ohm resistance. 7.5 ohm at 12v in theory would produce 19.2w of heat. if you can find a 7.5ohm resistor capable of dissipating 20w of heat that would be fine, but lower heat ones are available cheaper. I chose to split the heat dissipation in half, with each 15 ohm resistor carrying 10w of the heat. total resistance in parallel is then 7.5ohm. For me it would be much more reliable long term.
  2. I don’t have the car anymore, but I’m 99% sure it’s petrol engine side.
  3. You can’t access it from the top. it’s under the drivers side headlight. only access is through the wheel arch.
  4. It’s in the drivers side wheel arch if I remember correctly 👍🏻
  5. I used a male plug so it was plug and play, something link this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08P9J9V1H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZSD88GD34KFDEKYEASY3 Then just 2 15 ohm resistors in parallel soldered to that connector. quite easy in the end.
  6. You can disable it by unplugging it (drivers side wheel arch) but it generates an error. 2 x 15 ohm, 10w resistors will remove the error. it’s heaven to drive without it….. you just have to take a few torx bits out, reach up and unplug it. took me around 15 minutes
  7. There is no coding required, since the BCM was never designed to work with 55w ballasts there is nothing to code to. The only thing which may be changed is the dimmerwert channel to 127% but it should be set at that from the factory for the OE ballasts anyway. You shouldn't need the canbus controllers either, not with morimoto ballasts, the cheaper ones you do due to flickering but your BCM is already coded to accept ballasts. As I haven't fitted the D3S ballasts I don't know what the connections will be like but it should be straight forward. The original ballasts are bolted to the underside of the headlight, the morimoto ones cant go there as the OE ballasts form a water tight seal. You will have to find somewhere else to mount them. Just don't mount them to a metal surface (via a bracket etc.)
  8. The fault code is for the electronic coolant pump, the pump is a 3 wire setup (this is an example as I don’t know your engine code) 1) 12v feed 2) PWM signal to pump (this allows the current to flow from 1 to 3) 3) Earth See pics
  9. Not that I'm aware of, or at least not at the time I did it. There were some sellers on AliExpress if I remember right, there is a member on here who brought a set of boosted D3S ballasts and they were a straight swap. I'll have a search for the post Here are the type of thing (please check fitment) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32926208372.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.1ad45c28aMbKqN&algo_pvid=6385550d-c64d-4a8c-b23f-926b3de66035&algo_expid=6385550d-c64d-4a8c-b23f-926b3de66035-2&btsid=0ab6f82c15893642407613939e6b58&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
  10. Hi I don't think that boosting the 35w bulbs will be an issue, they will go down in colour temperature slightly but not that much. 5500k @35w will probably be 4500k - 5000k at 50w. It is easier to do option 1, rather than the option I chose :-) There was no coding on the Morimoto ballasts, as they practically are the same as the OE ballasts. If I was doing this again I would probably get another set of headlights and fit in a set of BI-LED projectors :-)
  11. There are 2 Skoda TSB’s for engine overheating / coolant warning etc. when you get the engine overheating warning is it accompanied by a coolant low level warning? The 2 TSB’s are: 1) 2046852/7 The coolant level light illuminates, engine overheat message 2) 2039483/9 High temperature reading, coolant light illuminates (this one is the updated water pump fix)
  12. I had a mk7 golf that would creak when it was warmer. A new febi-bilstein strut top fixed it :-)
  13. Quads look good, not over the top for me. They fit nice, I’m not for these fake exhaust trims.
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