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You need to mimic the resistance of the speaker. for this you need a 7.5 ohm resistance. 7.5 ohm at 12v in theory would produce 19.2w of heat. if you can find a 7.5ohm resistor capable of dissipating 20w of heat that would be fine, but lower heat ones are available cheaper. I chose to split the heat dissipation in half, with each 15 ohm resistor carrying 10w of the heat. total resistance in parallel is then 7.5ohm. For me it would be much more reliable long term.

I don’t have the car anymore, but I’m 99% sure it’s petrol engine side.

You can’t access it from the top. it’s under the drivers side headlight. only access is through the wheel arch.

It’s in the drivers side wheel arch if I remember correctly 👍🏻

I used a male plug so it was plug and play, something link this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08P9J9V1H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZSD88GD34KFDEKYEASY3 Then just 2 15 ohm resistors in parallel soldered to that connector. quite easy in the end.

You can disable it by unplugging it (drivers side wheel arch) but it generates an error. 2 x 15 ohm, 10w resistors will remove the error. it’s heaven to drive without it….. you just have to take a few torx bits out, reach up and unplug it. took me around 15 minutes

What year and spec Octavia do you have?

There is no coding required, since the BCM was never designed to work with 55w ballasts there is nothing to code to. The only thing which may be changed is the dimmerwert channel to 127% but it should be set at that from the factory for the OE ballasts anyway. You shouldn't need the canbus controllers either, not with morimoto ballasts, the cheaper ones you do due to flickering but your BCM is already coded to accept ballasts. As I haven't fitted the D3S ballasts I don't know what the connections will be like but it should be straight forward. The original ballasts are bolted to the underside of the headlight, the morimoto ones cant go there as the OE ballasts form a water tight seal. You will have to find somewhere else to mount them. Just don't mount them to a metal surface (via a bracket etc.)

The fault code is for the electronic coolant pump, the pump is a 3 wire setup (this is an example as I don’t know your engine code) 1) 12v feed 2) PWM signal to pump (this allows the current to flow from 1 to 3) 3) Earth See pics

Not that I'm aware of, or at least not at the time I did it. There were some sellers on AliExpress if I remember right, there is a member on here who brought a set of boosted D3S ballasts and they were a straight swap. I'll have a search for the post Here are the type of thing (please check fitment) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32926208372.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.1ad45c28aMbKqN&algo_pvid=6385550d-c64d-4a8c-b23f-926b3de66035&algo_expid=6385550d-c64d-4a8c-b23f-926b3de66035-2&btsid=0ab6f82c15893642407613939e6b58&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

Hi I don't think that boosting the 35w bulbs will be an issue, they will go down in colour temperature slightly but not that much. 5500k @35w will probably be 4500k - 5000k at 50w. It is easier to do option 1, rather than the option I chose :-) There was no coding on the Morimoto ballasts, as they practically are the same as the OE ballasts. If I was doing this again I would probably get another set of headlights and fit in a set of BI-LED projectors :-)

There are 2 Skoda TSB’s for engine overheating / coolant warning etc. when you get the engine overheating warning is it accompanied by a coolant low level warning? The 2 TSB’s are: 1) 2046852/7 The coolant level light illuminates, engine overheat message 2) 2039483/9 High temperature reading, coolant light illuminates (this one is the updated water pump fix)

I had a mk7 golf that would creak when it was warmer. A new febi-bilstein strut top fixed it :-)

Quads look good, not over the top for me. They fit nice, I’m not for these fake exhaust trims.

Nope, just line it up and screw it on :-)

I just used self tapping screws - much easier!

I cut a hole in the headlight cap then purchased some grommets to bring the wiring through (so no risk of water leaks). Morimoto D2S led wont work, I looked at it. There isn’t anywhere near enough space for the heat sink to swing around. Getting a 12v feed isn’t an issue, that’s easily available within the headlight. It’s a tough desicion, if I were to do it again I’d go with some bi-led projectors. The problem is when I was looking for Qashqai headlights on eBay they were still quite expensive. it wouldn’t be an easy task but just think, you could have LED headlights without regretting you brought a FL (and having to look at it everyday) :-)

The D2S bulbs are a direct fit for the D3S, the main issue is the connector on the back of the D2S bulb fowls the casing of the headlight when the AFS motors swing the projector full swing. its doable though (I did it) but takes a little bit of fettling :-) oh - I sold the vRS and brought a Golf R :-)

All the tuning companies do a great software update for it

If you want LED, the simplest solution I could think of is to retrofit the bi-led projectors from a Nissan Qashqai. They are a small projector with a nice smart cut off. Depending on the size you would have to totally modify the mountings so the ASF could 'swing' the projector around in the housing. Had I kept the vRS, that's what I may have done. I converted mine to D2S so I could run 50w ballasts, whilst I found the brightness ok, the cut off wasn't razor sharp like bi-LED. If not the Qashqai bi-led's the the BMW mini bi-LEDs are very impressive with a blue hue across the whole cut-off. Problem is they are more expensive.

If your car was pre 2017 you could set the brightness to the same brightness when the torch was there. as yours is a later one the access code has not yet been found to allow this mod.

What that video doesn’t tell you is when they are programmed like that, they will come on everytime you unlock the car and not go off until you key on the ignition.

Try using a nice bright torch and shining it directly onto the instrument cluster, leave it there for 10 seconds. Are you happy with the brightness immediately after? Note that it may only last a few seconds.

You need to scope the indicator signal to the bulb, also check the PWM state as that can often play havoc if you are using it as a trigger for another electronic circuit.

I ‘think’ the new 7spd is the wet clutch like our 6spd. Couldn’t agree more with the shift point comments, if only the tuners would listen :-) At least the REVO map fixes the auto kickdown in M mode