rbss

CarParts4Less which I think is the same outlet as ECP?

TBH, I think I've checked only one pad with the sensor cable, and didn't think they were any different...? No longer have the old parts, otherwise I'd get them out and re-measure everything, I wonder if the new pads are maybe just so slightly different in measurement (would need to be 1-2mm) and whether they could be causing this... Just checked the ECP website, all different pads for my car (including the Brembo pads) seem to have identical fitment/dimension details ....

Last year I have replaced front and back pads and discs in my Kodiaq - we were going to go for a long family trip across Europe, so wanted to have nice and new brakes. Replaced originals with the Brembo, all parts were bought online and stated that these are direct replacement of standard parts. One thing I have noticed after a while is that sometimes the car makes a knocking noise, which sounds like it is coming from the suspension, as it usually happens when the front of the car goes into a hole etc and the nose of the car dips... Took the car to two local garages (one of them is the guys who worked for Audi garage before so they know the parts quite well), they checked everything and said that no issues with suspension. They checked some other things and said that most of the bushings etc look like brand new, there is no loose parts etc. Strangely after the car was taken down from the car lift and put back on the road, the noise disappeared for a day or two, but it comes back on again. I started thinking that the only thing that has changed really is the brakes, and I can't really see how the discs would cause this noise, the only other part would be the pads - so I am thinking about replacing the fronts again this year to see if that noise disappears. Does anyone know what brand/type are used for the 190bhp 4x4 Kodiaq mk1 ? The parts I have now are shown below I think these numbers are universal, they seem to work across few car part shops: Brembo pads - 10144422A Brembo discs - 10444212A

Not sure what "jolt" it is, but my car was also making a weird noise and stuttering a bit when starting, especially when I was turning... Cleaned the Haldex system (pump filter), put new oil in, resetted the pump and it improved massively (the car still does the noise when I start dynamically, but it's much reduced from what it was). Not sure if it helps, but it's worth checking , the oil and parts are under £50, and a bit of work under the car to get the pump/filter out.

Yes, I'd need to stress though it needs to be correct grease - I think previous owner of this car was lubricating the latch but with some very dense grease, which accumulated more and more dust/grit and in the end caused the failure of the latch ...

Ok, trip to the garage, 2hrs of work, and bonnet is now open. All done under £100 and no damage done (I think they have taken out the bottom grille and worked their way up to the lock), but it's going to be the lesson I'll remember till the rest of my life

Hello! The bonnet lock in my wife's Octavia (17reg) was really sticky, sometimes I could not open it easily, sometimes it was difficult to actually get it closed... Having some success with small jobs on my Kodiaq (discs/pads replacement, boot lock replacement) and being cash strapoedm, I thought I will just get the part from TPS and replace it myself. I managed to take the old lock out, install the new one, I think I have connected the Bowden cable as it should be (, and connected cables in the little plastic box, then, being just too happy that the job goes well, I installed all screws back, and .... closed the bonnet, without actually trying first if it's going to open. As you've guessed, I cannot now open it at all... Using the door handle, the bonnet does not open, I don't want to pull it too much, I think the cable might be stretched slightly already, so I am trying to understand what needs to be done to open the bonnet if the cable is not attached, or snapped... Did anyone did this before? I was thinking how the lock looked like when I was changing it, and the only thing that crosses my mind is that the front grille might need to be broken to get an access to the lock (even then it won't be easy, at it was hidden it it's own plastic box...

quick update, friend from VW garage confirmed this is plug-and-play part, so all good. Just need to put it all back together, make sure all works correctly ... just in time for Xmas!

Replaced the servo motor, in temp position now, it works! Tailgate closes, and soft-close locks the tailgate, then the light on the dash (boot open) disappears . Before I put everything back together in final places, is there anything in VCDS coding that needs to be done to this module? Checked all (I think) the service manuals and this servo motor is not shown anywhere, so no idea if there is any coding/basic setting to be done? Would be good to know so I don't end up breaking the new (£132) part shortly.

I really hope it's the servo motor .... after a bit of reading last night realized it could be also the foot sensor, or the sensor in one of the struts... Asked local TPS if they got the struts just in case... they don't stock them, and the guy said - they are quite expensive, each is 570 (or 507, I think I've fainted when he started "five hundred... :D:D:D). Hope it's the cheaper option!

I have also borrowed VCDS and found some things... 1) In the series of the sensors on the bottom, one of hte sensors (IDE09519-MAS09067) seems to be showing 1. I think when I open the tailgate all of them are ones, which would indicate that tailgate is open - but when it's closed, this sensor still shows that tailgate is open? IDE09499-IDE01991 Motors for tailgate: activation-Motor 1 for tailgate: status OFF IDE09499-IDE02012 Motors for tailgate: activation-Motor 2 for tailgate: status OFF IDE09499-MAS09001 Motors for tailgate: activation-Closing Assist Motor OFF IDE09501-MAS09012 Motors for tailgate: elec. current-Rear lid motor 1 0.00 A IDE09501-MAS09013 Motors for tailgate: elec. current-Rear lid motor 2 0.00 A IDE09519-MAS09054 Status of hall sensor in motor for tailgate-Motor 1 for tailgate: Hall sensor voltage supply On IDE09519-MAS09055 Status of hall sensor in motor for tailgate-Motor 2 for tailgate: Hall sensor voltage supply On IDE09519-MAS09066 Status of hall sensor in motor for tailgate-Motor 1: Sensor 1 00000000 IDE09519-MAS09067 Status of hall sensor in motor for tailgate-Motor 1: Sensor 2 00000001 IDE09519-MAS09068 Status of hall sensor in motor for tailgate-Motor 2: Sensor 1 00000000 IDE09519-MAS09069 Status of hall sensor in motor for tailgate-Motor 2: Sensor 2 00000000 2) this other fault seems to be confirming the servo motor failure? This error appeared on the day when I couldn't open the tailgate Address 6D: Trunk Elect. (J605) Labels:| 5Q0-959-107.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 959 107 L HW: 5Q0 959 107 J Component: HDSG-Modul H13 0261 Revision: -------- Serial number: 31623211100000 Dataset Number: V03935259NH 0001 Coding: 1B08 Shop #: WSC 33361 790 00144 ASAM Dataset: EV_DeckLidCONTIAU736 001014 ROD: EV_DeckLidCONTIAU736_VW37.rod VCID: 41DF4B1031005E42405-8014 1 Fault Found: 0065 - Rear Lid Closing Assistance B113E 29 [008] - Signal Implausible Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 4 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 40 Mileage: 152024 km Date: 2023.12.18 Time: 18:24:41 Status of closing assist-Limit switch for pull-shut assist.: Not operated 3) This is other fault seems to be pointing to the rear lid opener control module - but this error was logged back in September, so not sure if this is relevant ? (if memory serves me right, there was one time when my battery gone a bit low after car was sitting for few weeks, and I had to recharge it, but cannot remember if this was around the same time) Address 05: Acc/Start Auth. (J518) Labels:| 5Q0-959-435.clb Part No SW: 3Q0 959 435 G HW: 3Q0 959 435 G Component: VWKESSYMQB 037 0907 Revision: 00037000 Serial number: 0460673218 Dataset Number: V03935268ZS 0001 Coding: 032C0C070F Shop #: WSC 33361 790 00144 ASAM Dataset: EV_KessyHellaMQBAB 004041 ROD: EV_KessyHellaMQBAB.rod VCID: 3E2530EC40FE21BA3D7-806A Rear lid opener control module: Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 3G0 962 243 B HW: 3G0 962 243 B Component: GEB.F.Heckoef H17 0904 Serial number: 58291568 1 Fault Found: 65794 - Function Restricted due to Insufficient Voltage U1400 00 [008] - - [Function restriction due to temp low voltage] Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 6 Fault Frequency: 73 Reset counter: 105 Mileage: 149500 km Date: 2023.09.17 Time: 11:52:03 Terminal_15_Kessy_specified_value: On Terminal_15_Kessy_actual_value: On Terminal_15_central electric_actual_value: On Terminal_15red_Kessy_specified_value: On Terminal_15red_Kessy_actual_value: On Terminal_S_Kessy_specified_value: On Terminal_S_Kessy_actual_value: On Terminal_S_central electric_actual_value: On Terminal_50_Kessy_specified_value: OFF Terminal_50_Kessy_actual_value: OFF ZAT_pressed: OFF Park selector lever position: Engaged and locked Request active: Condition not met Enabling Steering Column Lock: Condition not met Enabling immobilizer: Condition met No active error mode: Condition met Key signature validity: Condition met Control Module Voltage: 8.510 V Driver information key position copy workshop: not active Driver information: roll warning: not active Driver information: emergency shutdown: not active Internal_key_position: no_message Driver information comfort switching: not active Vehicle speed: 0.0 km/h Engine RPM: 0.0 /min Status of vehicle locking: Vehicle unlocked Approach to the inside: not active Actuation to the inside: not active Approach to the outside: not active Actuation to the outside: not active Pulling actuation: outside door handle: not active Coding information: coded Approach to the inside: not active Actuation to the inside: not active Approach to the outside: not active Actuation to the outside: not active Pulling actuation: outside door handle: not active Coding information: coded Approach to the inside: not active Actuation to the inside: not active Approach to the outside: not active Actuation to the outside: not active Pulling actuation: outside door handle: not active Coding information: Not coded Approach to the inside: not active Actuation to the inside: not active Approach to the outside: not active Actuation to the outside: not active Pulling actuation: outside door handle: not active Coding information: Not coded Driver door: closed Front Passenger Door: closed Left rear door: closed Right rear door: closed Active_LF_scans: Init ID-sensor 1 authentication: status: No response ID-sensor 2 authentication: status: No response ID-sensor 3 authentication: status: No response ID-sensor 4 authentication: status: No response SPN_Byte 0: 00 SPN_Byte 1: 00 SPN_Byte 2: 00

New lock installed, unfortunately it works just the same way as the old one. The tailgate goes down but it is not locking properly - it sits 2-3mm above it's final position and dashboard still shows open tailgate... So it looks like it's the servo motor (attached) for the soft close that needs replacing... Is there anything I should know before replacing that? Seems easy enough, 4 plastic fittings holding it, one electrical plug and the cable that needs to be adjusted.... Again, not sure if there is anything to do with the VCDS?

Thanks! So far I managed to take half of the plastic trim off, the other side (next to the window) is stuck solid. Oh well, tonight is another night

I'm planning to start changing the lock tonight - any advice before start? VCDS coding required? Any other tips? All help hugely appreciated!

Also, just wonder if it's just the lock mechanism that is faulty - it appears there is also a servo-motor for the soft-close function of the door?