rbss

one note to add, I bought my battery from Tayna batteries - much better prices than local shops!

In my car (I guess yours is similar age) I had the following problems : 1) battery went kaput - replaced the battery ,still had a little hiccup in the first week after the battery was replaced, but everything works now (perhaps computer had to re-learn the new battery or erase old things) 2) start-stop system has a voltage settings that prevents to stop the engine if the battery voltage is not sufficient. I actually used it to disable start-stop completely, raised the default setting of something like 12V to 14V and now the system is now disengaged 3) other issue that I had was the key-fob battery. Sometimes it showed me the message that the key fob battery was low, but the last time when the battery went dead it did no show anything on the dashboard. 4) also replaced the start-stop button in the steering wheel column, as this started to be a bit picky - sometimes took 2-3 presses to actually start, or stop the engine.

It's been a while since original post, I just recently came across it.... I was looking for the source of the rattle in my wife's car... We had this rattle for ages but could never find it. I initially looked at almost every plastic part in the dash, as the sound was almost coming from the inside of the dash. I have checked the metal part you shown on the photo, and realized this part rattles when it touches the plastic vent pipe coming down to footwell just above the clutch pedal (and because it was resonating in this pipe it sounded like somewhere inside the dash). Using a sharp knife I cut down a tiny amount of the plastic tube, so it was not touching this metal bracket, but also used some material and cable ties to wrap up the bracket... Result .... I can now hear multitude of much quieter rattles all around :D but I'm happy as the main noise-maker is finally gone! Thank you for pointing me in this direction!

btw, have they sorted your gearbox ?

I'm off-ski to Poland as well, next Saturday, if the car won't cause any more troubles... so far it's starting all the time :) With regards to the brake pads, in my last 5 years I bought countless number of car parts for our family cars, always based on the reg plate finder on popular websites and never had an issue with the wrong ones being sent.... You would need to take the wheel off, and you might be able to measure the brake pad in the brake calipers if you've got ... calipers (suwmiarka/ Vernier caliper).

The other two keys are sitting far away from the car, don't think they would be interfering. btw. the message that was showing before during the start is the standard "safelock" message. Started the car few times yesterday, three times today, starts ok just now.... Spoke to Fifetech Auto, they gave me a list of things to check, but so far all these things do look ok, and since this is intermittent issue, it will be a nightmare to diagnose... Skoda Aberdeen are happy to book me for diagnosis .... on the last day of July :D:D:D Love how you can explain to them - this is the car, this is the issue, this is my timescales... "ok, let me check and call you back asap" - when they call you back after 2hrs, they say wrong car, wrong issue, and completely outside the dates you mentioned ... :D

I don't normally do work on my cars either - but when I heard this huge bill, and having bad experience with this dealer in the past, decided to do them with my friend. With the fronts, you need to take out the calipers as well, but the rears, you can actually take out the pads and wiggle out the discs without taking the calipers. So in my case it was dead easy, but as I have said - you will need someone with access to VCDS or other system like this to be able to disable the electrical parking brake to change the brakes. Where you off to in EU?

Check yourself to see how they look like. I had the same "diagnosis" from Skoda, and they wanted some ridiculous money. Bought all the parts and replaced them myself. The pads were minimum 5mm in my case, and not 3mm (and under 3mm) as Skoda claimed. Replaced them anyway. replacing rear pads and discs is easy, but you'll need to release the parking brake for the procedure. If you check your pads and they are truly 3mm, I'd get them changed, especially before longer trip. You can probably change both pads and discs for less than 450...? What did they say about your gearbox issue?

Haha, the record is so blurry that I don't even know, but it wasn't any error etc. I do have 3 keys in total, but yes, only use one, with the others sitting in the cupboard.. Good shout, might be a faulty key as well.. As far as I know no synchronisation is required, I always try to do it in minimum time - have new battery ready and change it in matter of seconds, done it few times and never had to code/synchronise it. With the key batteries, I'm sure in the past I was getting a message saying to replace the battery, this time absolutely nothing, despite some logs as shown in VCDS. Of course tried to start the car 3-4 more times today, and starts like nothing happened. I seriously hope that perhaps it was a low key battery, but I not know for sure :D Definitely check the dealers before I go.

Thanks Linni, will try that, hope there will be a slot available before I need to go to EU .... Will also give the guys at Fife Autotech a call, and see what they say...

Thanks Nigel - I have checked the VCDS again for errors and there is was a few (report attached) - one about NOx sensor, but also stored fault about low key battery and fault of the steering assist system. I have replaced key battery, and car started 3 times, but I am not sure if this is truly the end of it ... It's really annoying that it's an intermittent issue, so even more difficult to diagnose... And as usual, we're 2 weeks away from long trip to Poland, and the car starts making tantrums .... Preview attachment Log-TMBMK9NS6J8047143-162004km-100664mi-15052025.txt Log-TMBMK9NS6J8047143-162004km-100664mi-15052025.txt 49 KB

video.mp4

Just checked the battery with VCDS, shows 74% SOC and 50Ah usable capacity.... really puzzled now... I've got video from non-start, but it's 17mb, need to find out how to compress it ....

Fitted the new battery (checked terminals etc) into the car, and when I was coding it with VCDS I noticed that SOC and capacity was quite low - so then charged it with the battery in the car. Took a car for a 300m drive yesterday, got back home safely, this morning was trying to start the car.... same story - car doesn't start, I will check it later on to see what the battery is showing, but I am guessing (with the stress on the word guessing), that the alternator is not charging the battery as it should ...

Hmmm, after hooking the battery to the charger, it was showing roughly 60% charge, so left it for few hours until it stopped charging. That was last night, just checked the car with the VCDS and it shows 88% state of charge, and usable capacity as 45Ah.... Car definitely starts much quicker, compared to the old battery (initial cranking was quite slow and engine was starting after 2-3 turns, now the engine starts almost instantly) I wonder if these values are correct, or because the battery is connected in the car the values shown aren't totally accurate? not sure why the battery would have 45Ah compared to the 70Ah stated by the manufacturer ? Need to go to another 300m drive tomorrow, hoping I'm going to make it :D