rbss

one note to add, I bought my battery from Tayna batteries - much better prices than local shops!

In my car (I guess yours is similar age) I had the following problems : 1) battery went kaput - replaced the battery ,still had a little hiccup in the first week after the battery was replaced, but everything works now (perhaps computer had to re-learn the new battery or erase old things) 2) start-stop system has a voltage settings that prevents to stop the engine if the battery voltage is not sufficient. I actually used it to disable start-stop completely, raised the default setting of something like 12V to 14V and now the system is now disengaged 3) other issue that I had was the key-fob battery. Sometimes it showed me the message that the key fob battery was low, but the last time when the battery went dead it did no show anything on the dashboard. 4) also replaced the start-stop button in the steering wheel column, as this started to be a bit picky - sometimes took 2-3 presses to actually start, or stop the engine.

It's been a while since original post, I just recently came across it.... I was looking for the source of the rattle in my wife's car... We had this rattle for ages but could never find it. I initially looked at almost every plastic part in the dash, as the sound was almost coming from the inside of the dash. I have checked the metal part you shown on the photo, and realized this part rattles when it touches the plastic vent pipe coming down to footwell just above the clutch pedal (and because it was resonating in this pipe it sounded like somewhere inside the dash). Using a sharp knife I cut down a tiny amount of the plastic tube, so it was not touching this metal bracket, but also used some material and cable ties to wrap up the bracket... Result .... I can now hear multitude of much quieter rattles all around :D but I'm happy as the main noise-maker is finally gone! Thank you for pointing me in this direction!

btw, have they sorted your gearbox ?

I'm off-ski to Poland as well, next Saturday, if the car won't cause any more troubles... so far it's starting all the time :) With regards to the brake pads, in my last 5 years I bought countless number of car parts for our family cars, always based on the reg plate finder on popular websites and never had an issue with the wrong ones being sent.... You would need to take the wheel off, and you might be able to measure the brake pad in the brake calipers if you've got ... calipers (suwmiarka/ Vernier caliper).

The other two keys are sitting far away from the car, don't think they would be interfering. btw. the message that was showing before during the start is the standard "safelock" message. Started the car few times yesterday, three times today, starts ok just now.... Spoke to Fifetech Auto, they gave me a list of things to check, but so far all these things do look ok, and since this is intermittent issue, it will be a nightmare to diagnose... Skoda Aberdeen are happy to book me for diagnosis .... on the last day of July :D:D:D Love how you can explain to them - this is the car, this is the issue, this is my timescales... "ok, let me check and call you back asap" - when they call you back after 2hrs, they say wrong car, wrong issue, and completely outside the dates you mentioned ... :D

I don't normally do work on my cars either - but when I heard this huge bill, and having bad experience with this dealer in the past, decided to do them with my friend. With the fronts, you need to take out the calipers as well, but the rears, you can actually take out the pads and wiggle out the discs without taking the calipers. So in my case it was dead easy, but as I have said - you will need someone with access to VCDS or other system like this to be able to disable the electrical parking brake to change the brakes. Where you off to in EU?

Check yourself to see how they look like. I had the same "diagnosis" from Skoda, and they wanted some ridiculous money. Bought all the parts and replaced them myself. The pads were minimum 5mm in my case, and not 3mm (and under 3mm) as Skoda claimed. Replaced them anyway. replacing rear pads and discs is easy, but you'll need to release the parking brake for the procedure. If you check your pads and they are truly 3mm, I'd get them changed, especially before longer trip. You can probably change both pads and discs for less than 450...? What did they say about your gearbox issue?

Haha, the record is so blurry that I don't even know, but it wasn't any error etc. I do have 3 keys in total, but yes, only use one, with the others sitting in the cupboard.. Good shout, might be a faulty key as well.. As far as I know no synchronisation is required, I always try to do it in minimum time - have new battery ready and change it in matter of seconds, done it few times and never had to code/synchronise it. With the key batteries, I'm sure in the past I was getting a message saying to replace the battery, this time absolutely nothing, despite some logs as shown in VCDS. Of course tried to start the car 3-4 more times today, and starts like nothing happened. I seriously hope that perhaps it was a low key battery, but I not know for sure :D Definitely check the dealers before I go.

Thanks Linni, will try that, hope there will be a slot available before I need to go to EU .... Will also give the guys at Fife Autotech a call, and see what they say...

Thanks Nigel - I have checked the VCDS again for errors and there is was a few (report attached) - one about NOx sensor, but also stored fault about low key battery and fault of the steering assist system. I have replaced key battery, and car started 3 times, but I am not sure if this is truly the end of it ... It's really annoying that it's an intermittent issue, so even more difficult to diagnose... And as usual, we're 2 weeks away from long trip to Poland, and the car starts making tantrums .... Preview attachment Log-TMBMK9NS6J8047143-162004km-100664mi-15052025.txt Log-TMBMK9NS6J8047143-162004km-100664mi-15052025.txt 49 KB

video.mp4

Just checked the battery with VCDS, shows 74% SOC and 50Ah usable capacity.... really puzzled now... I've got video from non-start, but it's 17mb, need to find out how to compress it ....

Fitted the new battery (checked terminals etc) into the car, and when I was coding it with VCDS I noticed that SOC and capacity was quite low - so then charged it with the battery in the car. Took a car for a 300m drive yesterday, got back home safely, this morning was trying to start the car.... same story - car doesn't start, I will check it later on to see what the battery is showing, but I am guessing (with the stress on the word guessing), that the alternator is not charging the battery as it should ...

Hmmm, after hooking the battery to the charger, it was showing roughly 60% charge, so left it for few hours until it stopped charging. That was last night, just checked the car with the VCDS and it shows 88% state of charge, and usable capacity as 45Ah.... Car definitely starts much quicker, compared to the old battery (initial cranking was quite slow and engine was starting after 2-3 turns, now the engine starts almost instantly) I wonder if these values are correct, or because the battery is connected in the car the values shown aren't totally accurate? not sure why the battery would have 45Ah compared to the 70Ah stated by the manufacturer ? Need to go to another 300m drive tomorrow, hoping I'm going to make it :D

Some years ago remember that diagnosis fee was waived if there was a genuine problem they have to address (just to stop people coming in with "I think I can hear a noise that no-one else can hear in my car" :D:D:D). But wouldn't surprise me if they changed that policy ...

New battery is in, coding done. All went well, however....! I don't have battery tester (other than the VCDS when the car is running), and didn't think twice about connecting the charger to it first... Installed battery, and after little spin and coding it, checked some measured values .... strangely, the new battery was showing state of charge of only 75%, and usable capacity as 37Ah. Took it for a short drive around the town, and it charged up sligthly to 79% and 39Ah. I think I will hook it up tonight and make sure it is fully charged, but I do wonder - should new battery arrive fully (or close to fully) charged?

Not sure what is the best procedure, but if you have the all-in service, definitely good idea to ask them about the code, how this can be diagnosed by Skoda and repaired... Even if they go and say "yes, no problem, we'll replace the part" , you might need to wait few weeks for the part itself, or availability or free slot in their garage...

Thank you kindly. Regarding re-charging the battery, I have started doing this since winter, after the car was unused for some time and I tried to start it (without thinking!), I've got lots of random errors, and even message on the dash "please start the engine manually" (eeeehh?). I have charged the battery, took a car for a drive, and all was fine. But then noticed that every now and then the car starting was a bit more difficult, so when I wasn't using the car for 2-3 weeks, I would charge the battery every now and then. This week was the first time when the car wouldn't start despite being on a fairly long drive. It's a 2018 model, assume the battery is original, so not surprised it is failing...

Just waiting for my new battery to arrive, but started to think - how do I go about coding it in the VCDS? Does it need doing in all cases? I've tried to purchase the same spec of the battery, but some details are changed. Old Battery: Varta 7PO915105 AGM 12V, 68Ah, 380A DIN 680A EN/SAE/GS New battery Varta 570 901 076 AGM 12V, 70Ah 760A EN So - new battery has slightly higher capacity (70vs 68) and higher max current (760A vs 680A). I am not sure about the nominal DIN rating that was 380A on the old battery. First time I will be doing this, so would be great if someone could confirm which settings must be changed in the VCDS? Thanks!

Had similar issue last year, albeit with DQ500 box. Expensive to repair. Once you get the error, it happens more often with time - and happens when the gearbox gets to normal temperature. Spoke to Skoda in Poland (they supplied the part) and they told me they had a customer in the past who was running with this error for a while, simply ignoring it. Eventually this led to some other issues (whole ECU entered some emergency mode) and became much more expensive. My car broke 2 weeks before I was going to drive from UK to Poland, repair at Skoda garage there would be a bit cheaper than in the UK, but I decided that having family onboard and taking a ferry/driving 250 miles in the uk/700 miles in the EU isn't worth the risk.

checked the car with VCDS. loads of errors. cleared them, tried to start the car.... cranking, no start. started second time. Checked errors- "failure to start due to low voltage". Checked some values in the VCDS, I think the battery had it's time... Voltage at 60%, capacity at 18Ah, down from the 68Ah....! But at least I know the alternator works, as I could see the voltage slowly being charged while the car was running. Off to the Tayna website to purchase a new batt.

Anyone knows what is causing this issue? Same symptoms as on the video from @MSD007 , and very similar to @ChazzyB . Went to Edinburgh yesterday, about 150m drive, this morning car started fine, came back home. In the afternoon went to local BQ shop, about 5 miles drive, came out from the shop and car wouldn't start. Started eventually after 4-5 attempts. I had issue with low battery in the winter, but since then I have been using little charger to keep it charged when car was not used, and after 150 miles drive yesterday and another 150mile drive today, it should be fine...?

My Kodiaq in Sport mode is not too bad, but normal mode is just ridiculous. I understand this is not a Porsche, but if you need to plan ahead to press the gas pedal to account for something like 1s lag before the car says "ooooh, we're driving now, ok, let me drop the gear" , that is just ridiculous. What annoys me even more that most of these things is just programmed in a very bad way in the ECU straight from factory ... Since some more responsive settings are available in VCDS (allegedly), I am simply trying to find out what they are and "improve" my car My old Geriatronic (XC90, 2.4D, 165bhp) was one of the best cars when it comes to usability, but driving was seriously dangerous. The throttle lag was (measured) 2s! Trying to merge with the traffic was always increasing my pulse Was ok-ish driving on the Scottish roads, but one travel to Europe and few hours of driving on German Autobans was more than enough, sold the car instantly when I got back home

Watching this with great interest... I have also seen on some page that there is supposedly a setting "audi response" vs "skoda response" in the vcds, but could never really find it. Remember reading on some Polish forum that guys changed this and it was additional improvement, further reducing the throttle lag, tried to contact the guy who wrote the post, but since the thread was few years old, he probably never seen my questions... Anyone had other ideas how to reduce the lag? I am driving mainly in sports mode, but even then it's really noticeable. In "normal" mode, my skoda is unbearably slow, drives almost like an old volvo xc90 with "Geriatronic" gearbox...