VRSD30

Yeah seems it's quite normal, just spoke to Turbo Dynamics and they confirmed shaft play is normal until you get oil flowing through it, they get loads of phone calls about it.... Got a bit worried then!

Yeah the manifold is coming off when the turbo gets replaced so going to clean ASV, EGR & manifold. Had a look in the ASV and it's proper clogged up with tar! Is that the exhaust gasses mixing with oil/diesel to create the sticky gunk? On another note I've got my new turbo this morning so had a look at it and there's some slight play on the shaft which is enough to feel a rock in the shaft, is that normal?!

New turbo going on this week and I'm wanting to clean all the crap out of the inlet manifold & EGR when it's off. Any good cleaning products you'd recommend for the job? I've seen someone use Mr Muscle oven cleaner for the inlet manifold and it foamed up in the pipes and seemed to do a good job! May give that a try but any advice welcome

Was it that colour when you got it? I'd be surprised if head gasket leaking oil into the coolant would've turned the new G13 brown straight away. Could be rust if the coolant has degraded over time and hasn't been changed for many years/miles and they've been topping it up with just water which would cause corrosion, and I think radweld can make coolant turn a rusty colour.

Millers Nanodrive EE 5w40. As long as it says VW 505.01 or VW 507 on the bottle it will be fine

I've just ordered a standard Sachs clutch & DMF from Darkside and it's also listed as suitable for the PD150 and the PD160 in the Ibiza Cupra, so obviously it can handle more power than the PD130 puts out but not sure how it would fair with 220bhp and xxx amount of torque! Probably gonna order a new turbo this week as a preventative and for piece of mind as mine is starting to whine more especially when cold and I don't want to risk it blowing to bits and firing shrapnel into the engine! As you'll have to make sure every last bit is out or it could knacker a new turbo.

Ordered a Sachs kit from Darkside. Going to change the clutch release fork while the box is off but can't find any on line, does anybody know where I can buy one from or should I just ask the dealer for the part? Is it worth changing the master cylinder as well?

Well I know the DMF is deffo on the way out now! Sat in traffic this morning and for the first time I heard the dreaded DMF rhythmic rattle, it's not too loud yet but put the clutch in and the rattling stops. Whether that's the cause of the vibration at idle I don't know. So what would you recommend, Sachs or LUK clutch kit?

Mine has whine first thing when starting from cold but not as loud as yours, doesn't last long then it goes quiet once the engine starts to warm up, then just what I would say is a normal whistle on boost. Could it be some play in the shaft that's worse when cold?

How many miles has yours done? Hopefully they'll find the cause! Keep us posted.

I don't know tbh, if it was a fault with the injectors or the loom I'd have thought the performance would be affected and it would still judder when cold? Everything is spot on other than idling judder when up to operating temp, intermittent not a constant judder either.

There's a few of the Shell oils that do meet the VW specs and the newer ones are not to the usual viscosity that have been available for many years, there's now a VW 507 which is 0w-30 and the Shell lube match shows a 505.01 5w-30 recommended for the PD engine. They only show VW specs on the front of the bottle. 0w-30 http://www.shell.co.uk/motorist/oils-lubricants/helix-for-cars/helix-fully-synthetic/shell-helix-ultra-professional-av-l-5w-30.html Says 5w-30 top of page but 0w-30 on the bottle :wonder: 5w-30 http://www.shell.co.uk/motorist/oils-lubricants/helix-for-cars/helix-semi-synthetic/shell-helix-hx7-professional-av-5w-30.html Don't sit idling much myself, but becasue of some road works on my normal route there's some long delays and I notice it more!

Some of the Shell Helix oils do meet VW 507 or VW 505.01 so maybe OK depending on which Shell oil has been used. I've had a DMF go on a vRS before and it felt different to what I'm experiencing now constant chugging and it was also rattling and knocking like hell. If it's something to do with the injectors then surely it would do it all the time, cold engine or warm and performance would be affected in some way? Cold idle is perfect and it also drives faultless, when it starts once up to temperature and sitting in traffic you notice it more but increase the engine speed slightly and it stops.

Well they said there was nothing wrong with the engine after running diagnostics, told me to keep an eye on it! Nothing wrong with the way it drives and it only does it when warmed up. On another note I'm not sure I trust them at all now as the last two times have resulted in arguments between me and the service dept & technicians over correct oil for the PD! Last time I queried the oil on the invoice as it said Shell Helix AG 5w30 which has these specs - API SN; ACEA C3; dexos2, he told me they use it in most cars! After an argument they drained the oil and replaced with a VW 507 spec oil. Decided to try them again, so the car had a service yesterday and I supplied them with some Millers 5w40 EE, went to pick the car up & paid them. Got into my car service book not stamped and there was a bottle of coolant, screen wash and a 1L bottle of Shell Helix AG so I looked at the invoice (should have checked properly before paying) and they had charged me for 4.3L of the AG oil and for the 1L top up bottle totalling £62! So I went back in showed them the oil on the invoice and asked where my bottle of Millers oil is because there should be just under 1L left from the 5L bottle I supplied, he disappeared for about 5 mins to look for my bottle of oil in the workshop and it had been used with just under 1L left in it. He apologised for the mistake on the invoice and gave me a refund back onto my card. Before leaving I said if you had've put that oil in my car then like the last time you would've been draining it out straight away for the correct oil. Then the service manager came out after over hearing and asked what the problem is and I just said if that's the oil you use for servicing PD engines then it's wrong! He said it's the correct oil for fixed intervals on the PD engine, I asked him to look at the bottle and show me where the VW 505.01 PD approval was but there wasn't any VW spec on the bottle at all! Then he said the ACEA C3 means it is suitable for the PD engine on fixed intervals along with most other cars they service. I just said well if you get any PD engines back that you've serviced with top end wear then that'll be the reason and I left. Always supply your own oil unless you know the garage that you use actually know what they're talking about!

Was sat in traffic lights for a bit earlier and I could feel a minor kick from the engine almost like a slight miss fire, idles ok apart from that and the rpm doesn't fluctuate and it's not a constant vibration. A slight increase in engine speed with the pedal and it stops. Car drives spot on apart from the common BLT stutter up to 2k rpm. Any ideas? Going in for service tomorrow so will mention it to them.

They weren't uprated and deffo not the Fabia, the Ibiza had only done 5k miles so doubt the clutch was worn and the vRS had just had a new clutch & DMF before I bought it, just a standard Sachs kit.

Going for a service on Wednesday and having the fluid replaced.

I've never driven a PD 130 that had a very light clutch, had an Ibiza FR and a vRS in the past and they always seem heavier on the clutch than most other cars I've owned, which is good as I'm not a fan of cars with light clutches.

My last one needed a clutch & DMF and the bite point was quite high and the DMF was rattling, so the low bite point can also signal a worn out clutch? Good going if it's still on the original.

Sounds similar to mine being within the first quarter maybe mines slightly lower, is yours still on the original clutch? How many miles you done?

I can get used to it in fact I quite like it! Just concerned it might be a sign something is wrong, as I said everything else with the clutch/dmf/gearbox seems fine. Each car will be different with clutch feel and as my last car had a light clutch and a bite point close to halfway up that's making the vRS feel different until I get used it.

Probably worrying about nothing but it's been over 2 years since I last had a vRS so can't quite remember where the clutch bite point was and if it's normal to be close to the floor. The one I've got now has a low bite point not far off the floor, maybe 2/3'' at most and the clutch feels heavier than most other cars I've driven but I do remember that being the case from my last vRS and you don't really need any revs to set off in 1st gear. No problem selecting any of the gears, no DMF rattles/knocking and no clutch slip when pressing hard on the go pedal. It's done 121k miles so it's possible it may have had a new clutch at that mileage, it may just be that getting back into another car you haven't driven for a long time that it feels different to what I've been used to for a while. That's the only concern I've got with the clutch and apart from that it feels spot on, anyone else's vRS clutch take up close to the floor which hasn't led to any issues? Getting the fluid changed this week when it gets serviced.

It doesn't look half as tatty in the pic as the turbo on my last vRS. The original will be a KKK, who makes them is it Borg Warner? I'm wondering if it's a good idea to replace the turbo as a preventive measure rather than wait till it fails as they can blow bits into the engine! Done 121k miles if it's on original so not sure how much life it'll have left. Then again it may have many more miles of life left! Don't think so, the engine isn't turning over when it makes the noise, it starts a second or two after being shut down. Not sure! As I said it's like an almost fog horn sound, trying to think of another way to describe it but can't...

Haven't done an oil analysis with them but I have used Millers oils, very good quality.

You take good care of the vRS! Even at 240k I'm sure it'll still have plenty of life left if you keep up with the high maintenance... What spec oil do you use, 505.01 or 507.00 and how often do you do oil changes?