Yearofthegoat
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Everything posted by Yearofthegoat
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I'm looking to do something similar - i.e. log in, download everything possible before the sub runs out. I'm only doing one car, so reckon it shouldn't be that difficult, but are there any easy-to-miss bits that folks have to go back for? Or is it all well laid out? Cheers
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Yeah, I thought that as well but the bolts are cheaper than a pair of compressors, and they look more fiddly if you don't have a lift or a pit to get access. Good thought though.
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Cool, so that's 3C0 513 049 BR dampers instead then, according the chimaera's table. Have requested some more quotes (for springs and shocks) so will see what they look like.
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@chimaeraLooking at your PDF (thanks for doing that), it looks like I'll need 1K0 511 115 DF or equivalent springs for a like-for-like swap. Garage chap said car is 1JA and 0YF - but I'll double-check the spring dots when I get a chance. If I want to go up a bit like @DrCorbyLee, then I'm looking at 3C0 511 115 AF or 3C0 511 115 AG - with the standard 3C0 513 049 CP dampers? So as long as I get some of those springs - Bilsteins like @rover220 for example, they should be okay. Just need to find the p/n for the control arm bolts so I can replace them. Then I can see about the dampers - which the garage would have to do. (Sorry but here's a dumb question - 'facelift' means the big changes made to Skodas around 2010 right?)
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Probably, yes, but I can't bring myself to gamble £500+ just to find out. If I wanted to check properly how could I do it? Do dampers usually wear out after 54K miles? Seems poor to me if they do as that's only 4 or 5 years for a 'normal' driver, but then it is 10 years old so maybe it's just age. I think what I'll do is replace the springs myself - seems easy enough to do. If it's still too low after that, I'm thinking the only cause then must be the dampers? Thanks
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Re. the dampers, how to tell if they've had it? There is a squeak/tweet noise behind the NS rear passenger's head when going over speed bumps, but I wonder if that might just be the seat catch (will check that out with the missus driving, usually it's me and therefore can't find the source). The car doesn't pogo up and down at all but that's not exactly scientific as a check. Hasn't failed any MOTs (perhaps not a proper check either).
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Yeah, I need to decide whether to keep it and get the work done or just call it day. Not easy, I paid £22k for it, can't get anything close for that amount nowadays.
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Thanks for the responses folks. The chap at the garage was dead against fit stiffer springs - for fear of ruining the 'unladen'/normal ride quality. Presumably that's because the dampers wouldn't match? All this came about because I have a bike rack which I use to carry 4 adult-sized bikes (I fitted the tow bar last year for that), and I noticed that the car looked a bit low and also the rack scrapes when there are speed bumps or uneven ground. Not too surprising, really but it made me wonder about the suspension. What I need is to stiffen up the loaded ride - i.e. 4up, roof box on, boot full, 4 bikes plus the rack, ideally without badly affecting the normal 2 or 4up no luggage etc. ride quality. @DrCorbyLee Looks like that quote is on the high side then. I also need my Haldex looking at, which was quoted as £150 for a service, £650 for a fitted replacement. It's a bit sad but I think I might just trade it in against an iV or a Kodiaq.
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Emailed VASmotion earlier and they rang me back within about half an hour. Their chap seemed to know his stuff (about Haldex). Might give them a try.
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I have had a quote to replace both rear springs with standard ones - the chap I spoke to said fitting up-rated springs would affect the usual ride height (which is right, I believe) so recommended normal springs with the existing normal dampers. £78.54 per spring, £306.26 two springs fitted. More than I'd like to pay but I'm not sure I could do this myself very easily. I'd need to add some MAD spring assisters to that total to help with the towing sag.
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Looks like I need new rear parts. Chassis is G15 according to the codes. Unladen stationary height from wheel centre to wheel arch is approx 360mm both rear sides, 380 front left and 385 front right. So it seems the fronts are within 10mm of the 390.8 book value but the rears are around 34mm lower than the 394.1 rear book value. It has a towbar fitted which will affect the height, so that suggests I need tow-bar-rated springs in the rear. But what about the dampers? Car is 10 years old but only done around 54K, so I think I'll start with the springs and see how it goes once they're fitted.
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Thanks to all for the posts in here. Am going to check the ride height on my '61 plate, as I think it's running lower than it should. My bike rack scrapes quite low bumps in the road which is what's made me think of it. Could of course be fine but in that case I'll consider some stiffer suspension anyway.
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Sorry for the necropost but it saves adding (yet) another tow bar coding thread (and it might help others). I've added a tow bar to my Superb (MY2012/61 plate) and have done everything okay so far using OBDEleven following the Trailer Hitch Retrofitting 1K guide: - Lights all work - Fog lights on the car stay unlit but the bike carrier ones come on instead - Dashboard ESP light stays on a bit longer than the ABS light (I believe I have MK60EC1) - Trailer picture appears on the Columbus display - Rear parking sensors don't go berserk any more What doesn't work is: - Alarm doesn't go off if I disconnect the bike carrier electrics. And I haven't checked bulb failure indication just yet. So far so good, but the one part of the VCDS guide that I haven't touched yet is 'Update the Engine Control Module (J623/#01)'. There's an entry under Long Coding for 'Trailer Recognition', which is currently 'Not Installed'. It's Byte 05, Bit 04. Before I change it to 1 instead of 0, I just wanted to check that that is actually what needs to be done. I'm guessing this deals with the engine management detecting (say) a heavy caravan and not going into limp mode? The tow bar electrics module is a Brink / Jaeger module which is supposed to be car-specific. Lastly, are there other parts of the J623/#01 ECM Coding that need to be changed as well? Cheers
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Recently fitted a tow bar to my Superb and it was the same with LV - no admin cost to add the modification and no increase in the premium.
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^^^ Same here. They're pretty much unnoticeable (I have the 'through' version). Think they're called Yakima these days.
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Very useful thread - thanks all. Seeing as a van driver decided to plough into my dearly-loved Superb (to which I had just self-fitted a tow bar ) on the M25, my search for a Kodiaq has had to be accelerated. Was previously looking at the 190 diesels but they're no longer available. Nor is the Edition, so it seems the L&K works out cheaper than the SE L, by the time I've added the options I had in my Superb. As usual, it's probably worth waiting a little yet to see what happens with prices, but yes diesel seems to be dead.
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I'm pretty sure you do still have the right to change your mind and pay it all off. We did exactly that when we bought my wife's Kia a couple of years ago. Had to ring up Kia Finance and ask for a settlement figure, then just paid it off. We were up front about it with the salesman, he asked if we could wait three weeks so he could get the commission. He'd been great during the purchase so we did that, there was only a few pounds difference to us. IIRC you can pay it off entirely within 14 days - a 'change of mind' thing - but then the dealer could have the right to withdraw the finance contribution.
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Just a quick post about number plates. I needed a number plate making up to go on a trailer or bike carrier and I first thought of Halfords as they're local (£16 bog standard amber rear plate) but they're not doing them at the moment. So I sent an email to APJ UK who are in Church Crookham, near Fleet in Hampshire (GU52 6EU). They called me back and you can just turn up for plates, no appointment needed. Very nice folk (and dog!), paperwork checked and plate done in no more than 10 minutes. £12 a standard plate, but they do all sorts of other ones too. Hope that helps someone.
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Thanks. I tested it with a bike carrier this morning , got bloody soaked but the lights all work fine and the car displays don't show any unusual errors. Am waiting for it to dry up a bit and I'll get the trim back on and call it job done. Many thanks for all the tips - def couldn't have done it myself without the help from you and others on here. 👍
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Yep, it's a permanent live, thanks again. Car seems fine - no errors in the Maxidot at least. In the morning I'll test it as far as I can (I can't code for towing just yet as the new 'nextgen' OBDEleven device was DOA, and has to be sent back to Lithuania).
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Righto. Yeah, it'll need a permanent live for the alarm going off if some scrote nicks the trailer etc. I'll fish out the multimeter.
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That's great thanks, I think I've found it - there's a spare tab and behind it a thick wide bar/rail with a thick red wire coming off it. (Sorry for the crap tablet photo): Is that the one? Yes, there's no pin 10 power in the kit - it's wired for an optional extra kit but has no feed. Thanks again for the help.
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Cheers. I've managed to get the wiring up and into the dash, all okay so far. Like you @rover220 I managed to fish the wire through from the wheel arch to the dash. Didn't need to remove the B pillar trim other than a little at the bottom of the rear OS passenger door. The last piece of the puzzle is the fuse wiring. The instructions show this: I got the pink secondary lock slid over okay, and the correct wires are in 43, 44 and 45. They've clicked in, feel sound. However, judging by the diagram, it seems that the other end of the 3-wire connector plugs into the bottom half of the aircon fuse location (unless I've mis-read the diagram). There is no tab sticking up from that location and of course there is already a wire in there - for the aircon I presume. This is probably a laughably simple thing for someone who's done this before, but where can I connect that "B+/30" end? (B+/30 means positve buss 30A?) Do I shove it in with the aircon connector? Thanks again. Nearly there now... He says hopefully.
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Thanks. Reliability is what concerns me - the connection is behind the upper trim in the boot; accessible, but not easily, so I don't want to have to repair it. I think crimping it will work fine. It won't be moving about much.
