Seanl

Been using it for ages! The pictures on the site even have the ECP water marks, and they have been delivered by the ECP van in the past! I spoke to a guy that works there, and it is indeed a sister company. The reason its so much cheaper, is that they have no local retailers and have no forums to run. Parts are shipped directly from the ECP/CP4L warehouse, apparently cutting out the middle man. (Although they go to the local retailers for delivery!) lol

If you still want to do it, just stick the carpet to the ply wood with carpet adhesive (available from all diy stores!). Thats good enough to stick it, and remain in place for as long as you'll own the car mate.

Yeah your right there! Always have to double check its locked before walking away! The keys are of poor quality plastic tbf, although as long as you don't smash them about, they will suffice. I'd bought a used Golf key from the bay of E that I tried to use to swap it all over, but the PCB is slightly larger and different shaped on the RClick remotes, so it doesn't fit unfortunately.

Its a 2000 year 8v, Bought back in August/Sept (cant remember exactly) with a shade under 39k. FSH and condition to match the low milage - pretty much mint! - now on around 44,500 miles. Only problem we've had was as mentioned, thermostat. Not too expensive, and takes 5 minutes to fit!

ah I didnt see that when I did a search, good guide! Ive got a new fluke so will be wiring up indicators next week some time hopefully. There really should be a sticky for all guides to make things easier to find. There doesnt seem to be much in the useful info thread, and what there is ate mostly vrs specific, not such a useful thread after all!

The fact its a trade sale will mean you will have little room for haggling on the asking price. The positive on that though is that you have a bit of come back should anything go wrong within the warranty period given. You could get more for your money by buying private, but you won't get that reassurance of a warranty. Early 8v engines could suffer with problematic HGs, but with it having decent mileage, that would suggest its been replaced in the past with the upgraded HG. Other than that, its the usual fabia issues tbh. Leaking rear door seals, thermostat, bushes etc. Its not bad for the price being a trade seller tbh, and its worth a look as your close. If your unsure after seeing it though, wait it out for a better one.

Heres a guide I did for my old Golf3, should be pretty similar mate. http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=204972.0

George wet vac with APC diluted 20:1

Its because you think you've lost power, your flooring the throttle all the time trying to pluck it back from thin air!

A couple of pens, some loose change and a condom in the hidden compartment in the glove - Bearing in mind it was a 1 previous owner of elderly female variety.......... And a full tin of de-icer behind the passenger underseat cover - was driving me nuts the random knocking as I didn't know the compartment existed!

Whilst its at idle and the owner is away from you, hold down the engine plastic cover! If it goes away, you have a great bargaining chip as it has an "unknown noise", yet you know its something seriously easy and cheap to sort!

You can check your ABS sensors manually if your worried about anything like that. Assuming they are the same type of sensors across the range and have not changed much, here is a write up I did when I had my Golf3. http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=204972.0

Glass looks to be delaminating. Moisture looks to be getting behind the laminated sheet (presuming its laminated glass mind you!). Are you sure your not looking at current MPG, rather than journey MPG, as if you coast on current, it will obviously go up massively.

I went to VW and got the 10w-40. Will probably quieten down the engine a touch too. Got filter and sump plug washer from Skoda, filter was £7.20 incl VAT, & copper washer was 50p.

Sorry guys another oil thread! 8v MPI - Ive just phoned Skoda for a price, and they've told me £38 for 4 litres of 5w-40 pd! I was under the impression I needed 10w-40, which incidently I can get 5l for £18 from VW! Bearing in mind I need just short of 5l for the change, and the car has only done 44k, which would be best, or should I just get the synta silver anyway? Cheers all!

Well I'd say that yes, that is excessively worn and an MOT failure! lol!

I agree, Ive taken mine and the missus car to the same place for years, and have a good rapport with the tester. I sit in the cabin whilst he goes round getting me to do the stuff whilst he is doing his checks. He always lets me know if there is anything that may need doing in the near future ut is not enough for even an advisory, as he knows I do all the work on my cars anyway. Never had a failure in 6 years of using him!

Yeah looks like a cheap ebay tuning box. It just gives false temp readings to the ecu, so engine would have been running a bit rich. Wouldn't have thought it would cause too many problems now you've removed it, (assuming your car is running fine with no faults now), and you may even see an improvement in MPG. Long term usage may have caused increased ring wear and compromised the the lambda probe, but if emissions are ok atm, all should be good.

I thought Trip Computer and A/C were standard even on the Classic? Mine has them anyway..................

You'd have to run it from the B pillars and back to the front, but you could go direct from the switches for the interior light. They'd switch off when you close the doors then too.

Me, the missus, and kids (5yo and 6 month old) regularly take the Fab to visit family in both Plymouth (hers) and Bristol (mine) for the weekend. Its plenty big enough for an all in 1 travel system and our bags in the boot. Ok, sometimes when we have a ton of stuff like we did at Christmas its a bit of a squeeze. Ask yourself honestly, how often are you likely to need to put most of your wardrobe in suitcases to throw in the back, as well as the pushchair, kids, everything else! Its plenty sufficient imho!

I bought an RCL kit just before X-mas, as I/SWMBO was sick of getting soaked running to the car in the rain, and waiting until the handle was pulled for the passenger to get in! This coupled with a young un' whinging about it as well, just wouldn't do! I've converted standard CL to RCL in the form of my old Golf3 GTI, and know my way around electricerals on Marine platforms, so was happy enough to crack on. I bought http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1497.l2649 from RightClick as its a pretty comprehensive kit, and was similar to the one I'd used before so knew it was of reasonable quality. Here is the kit and its contents. First off, plug it all up and test it. The last thing you want to do is fit it all to find it has been supplied to you defective! Once that was done I fitted all the actuators. This was easier said than done! The kit comes with mounting brackets, but not screws. With the light alloy inner door skin panels, screwing into them was difficult without them turning freely. I managed to achieve it with self tappers after drilling a pilot hole, and some thread lock glue. If this is the route that you take, be careful with the length of your screws, so as not to foul the window glass or mechanism. To gain access in the front doors, remove the window winder, unscrew the three star drive screws at the bottom of the door card, remove the top of the door pull and remove two posi drive screws, and there is one remaining star drive behind the mirror positioning knob. Once these are all out, carefully prise out the door card from the bottom as the card is till held on with retaining clips. Be very careful when pulling outwards, as the door pin surrounds are very easily broken. Its also a nightmare prising the card off at the top where it forms the inner window seal, so be careful with that too. Here is the actuator fitted to the front. You can mount them in a different place, but I found this the best way. Offer them up first, then mark out where you want to drill for the mounting point. The rods for the door pins are at 45 degrees, and fold up behind the door skin. A fair bit of fettling may have to be done to ensure the actuator pushes the pin up due to the rods positioning. You can test them independently as I did, by using a 12v battery on the two supply cables, and switching them between pos and neg terminals on the battery to operate the actuator up and down. Once fitted up, mark out where the supplied rod will need to be cut off before cutting and securing. For the rear doors, just pry off the door pull tops, remove the two screws, and remove the window winder. The card can then be prised off the clips and pulled clear. Next up was running the supplied loom I decided it was best to mount the RCL brain behind the drivers lower dash. This was for ease of wiring to power sources. I laid it all out roughly first to ensure it was all long enough to reach, then set about tucking it all behind panels, and behind the dash etc. At the front, I simply used the existing gap in the door loom connector point, and threaded it through the rubber boot and into the door itself. I had to remove the alloy door skin, and reach up to pull the loom through. I re-entered the loom through the large rubber grommet before connecting up. I had some sticky foam backed cable tie mountings which I used to keep the insides away from the window winder mech, and just cable tied the wires to the existing wiring on the door skin. Rear door looms were run under the lower door trim panels, up the B pillar, and out through the rubber grommets to the rear doors. Again pulled through behind the skin through the large rubber grommets and secured front and back. Exposed cabling has since been wrapped in loom electrical, then loom tape to protect from the elements. Once this was all done, I then clipped all door cards back on, and connected everything up and tested again. It was then time to splice into the cars loom. Goes without saying, ensure battery is disconnected when playing with any wigglies! I'd already removed the lower dash panel, so decided to to splice for power directly from the back of the fuse panel. Removal of the fuse panel is just two star screws at the top and the bottom of the actual panel. This is accessed by removing the side dash cover and exposing the fuses. You can then manoeuvre the fuse panel down from inside. Remove the back cover to expose the wires. I took the positive power line from one of the 20 amp rear window heater feed iirc. (Excuse the shoddy soldering, I was using a gas soldering iron that was near completely out of gas! Its since been re-done and insulated using heat shrink.) There is an inline fuse for the RCL power, so I mounted it in the location of the fuses too. The RCL negative was mounted by crimping a ring connector to it, and mounting direct to the dash support as can be seen to the left of the fuse. Also note the antenna above the fuse. This provides v.good range for the remote's and I haven't noticed interference from any other electrics with it being there either. My multimeter has died, so I'll get another after pay day. I'll then add to this guide detailing the connections to indicators for the flash on activation and de-activation. Hopefully this helps someone out if this is the route you decide to take, and sorry about the lack of crappy camera phone pics, I got a bit absorbed in it and forgot to take many! Total time taken was around six hours, but I didn't know how to remove door cards and panels to begin with, so could be done in slightly less time if you know how to access it all.

I was gonna suggest CG Jetseal 109 too. Remember, black hole is a glaze, so all it will do is fill slight swirls thus masking them. Nattys is a reasonable wax, but not very hard wearing imo. You'll have to repeat the process probably every 1-2 months tops. JS109 will last 3-6 months depending on conditions and the amount of mileage you do. Sealants are much more hard wearing than waxes. If you want proper long protection (I'm talking 2 years!) look at the GTechniq range.

You can download VCDS lite from Ross-Tech, which gives you pretty decent basic fault finding ability, coupled with an ebay lead for less than a fiver. Simples!

But G-reg is 1989/1990............. If the battery terminal cable was at fault, its unlikely it happened just by removing the battery once to top up the PAS fluid, there must have been underlying problems already tbh. They can become brittle over time, but its usually due to continuous removal and refitting, causing fatigue on the cable. May just have to take the hit on it this time unfortunately...........