Trampdrifting

Too many autocorrects in the above for my liking

Had a problem with my car the other day and found out something I didn't know existed that was causing me quite a few problems! CR170 Octy VRS 2009 The car 'Had' lumpy idle, flat spots and wasn't as economic as it was previously. It turns out there is a small valve in the head of the fuel filter housing, totally mechanical, once the housing was replaced the car felt like new again! I'd have never known it was there so just a tip for others to look out for. Simple test, if your cars got these symptoms then put a kink in the pipe that returns to the fuel tank, if the lumpy feeling clears this 'could' be your culprit! The problem is that the valve gets stuck and too much fuel returns to the tank starving the engine of fuel. Mine had total power cut of you tried to even build the revs up in the end so was an even easier test as the engine no longer cut out. The units simple to spit, it's in front of the windscreen washer bottle at the front left of your engine bay and has four pipes running in and out. These are to and from tank, and to and from engine, obviously don't kink them too hard or for too long, but a useful and free test to make before spending out hundreds on other items it could be!

It had flat spots when cruising on light acceleration, lumpy idle and felt a little down on power and economy. The valve is located in the fuel filter housing head, it basically diverts fuel back to the tank, completely mechanical so unsure how exactly it's controlled. But mine was returning too much fuel too the tank instead of into the engine, replaced this and now it runs like a dream again!

So, I had a Terraclean done on the car the other day for those who are interested and question its improvements and they are as follows: Octavia VRS CR170 Diesel, 105k miles MPG, since the terraclean I'm getting about and extra 2mpg on average DRIVE, it's ever so slightly more responsive and the whole process of accelerating and coasting along makes it feel a little more like it did when we bought it on half the mileage. OTHER, so, Terracleaning was a costly process on the day, although the service was only around £120 on the day, it's also aided my fuel return valve to fail. BUT, this was more than likely on its last legs and was probably the reason the car was running rough anyway. I'm guessing the cleaning dislodged the last few bits of carbon build up that was holding it together. But, having replaced this along with the cleaning done it feels like a different car. WOULD I RECCOMEND TERRACLEAN? Yeah i think so, it's probably a waste of time on a new car, but when you've done a few miles now as I have then you can actually feel the difference. It's not a wonder cure for the aging engine, but takes it back a good few 00k miles to a happier time!

Did anyone ever end up with the car on the forum after I sold it? Would love to know what happened to it after letting it go for nothing on a PX?

Thanks Tech1e, I'll hook it up and take a look. I think perhaps I'll see if I can pick up another sensor and take readings from both to see what I can rule out. Is the sensor the one to the left of the fuel rail?

So it may be that you can buy exactly the same light with the module to allow them to work on the canbus system.

This could be (like many of the bulbs) that it doesn't have a canbus interface / rectifier. For example, when I first bought my Mk2 Vrs I bought a Xenon headlamp kit just based on the bulb fitment, they were cheap but flagged up the warning light to tell me the headlamp bulbs were gone. I then spent some more money and bought a set that were designed to work with the Canbus system and they work exactly the same but don't create the fault. I don't think canbus is specific to the VRS so can't see that they would be selling lights that aren't compatible with the system, but, it sounds exactly like the problem I had. And as you said, you can't really fit them wrong. Take a look at the ones you bought online and see if you can find a set with and without CANBUS mentioned.

I know a friend who had something similar on his golf, it turned out to be a heater to pre heat warm air for the car in cold weather before the natural heat from the engine took its place? This was a strange foreign spec car but could be this? It was behind the glovebox?

Will the revs increase at all when you press the accelerator or does it do nothing?

Thanks for your reply! I've been off the forums for about 18 months now and it's good to see that it's still so active! I have VCDS so I could run some logs on this and see what it reports, my old MK1 Vrs lived on this as it was so highly modified, but, that's long gone and I've lost touch with it all! Could anyone possibly explain what blocks to measure etc so I can see actual against expected, I guess this could be easily measured at idle as it should be exact if the car is sat on the spot.

Hi, I've seen this in the forum a few times, but haven't yet found a thread that answers my problems, I'll keep it short and sweet to avoid rambling on. 2009 Octavia VRS, CR170 (not the PD engine) 104k miles If I accelerate hard the car cuts out at higher revs, the coil light comes on and the car rolls to a stop. When you turn the engine off and on again the fault clears and the car drives fine again. The car has just been terracleaned, has a new fuel filter including housing with valve, is freshly serviced and otherwise doesn't miss a beat and is brilliantly economic on fuel and perfectly smooth to drive. The problem has been present since about 70k miles and no amount of servicing or mileage has changed the problem or altered its characteristic is any way.

It's not the bolts I had a problem with, I've got the wobble set, it was getting the thermostat to balance in the hole while I lined the coolant neck against it. But then it was 30 degrees and I had been working on the car all day by this point! I think I was just still a little annoyed when I made this post

That's it for my post. Replaced mine last night, I'd rather replace the turbo again.

I ran mine with the SAI pipe bouncing round in my engine bay for a year and had no problems caused by that, so I'd start looking elsewhere for the answer for that one, as above something else has probably been knocked about during install.

I actually modified this part before tearing it all back out to fit a FMIC. So here's a very quick guide to modifying this commonly failed part.... Remove both the turbo downpipe and the rubber pipe connected to it in your picture that would then go on to connect to the pancake pipe. Now you should have two parts in front of you Saw off both the metal ring on the end of the rubber pipe and the area of the downpipe that it would clip into, If you want to be particular when you've chopped the end of the metal pipe off you can cut lots of little slots and bend them back on themselves to create a flange too. Now order a hose joiner that will push into your rubber pipe and a silicone reducer pipe that will take you down in size from the metal pipe to the hose joiner. Push the hose joiner into your now chopped rubber pipe, then the reducer onto the joiner, then the freshly cut metal pipe into that! Raunch it all up nicely with some jubilee clips and the problem will be gone forever. Simples. Unfortunately I did this a long time ago so cannot remember what sizes where needed to put this little mod together, but why skoda never did it this way to begin with I will never know. You can do as many people do and just replace the o ring over and over again, but this at least is a permanent fix to probably the most annoying boost leak! If anyone else wants that in more detail feel free to ask me any questions!

They are the push down ones, I'm just confused as to how they can cause the problem. Euro's do three different types, cheapest (HAAS) which did the same thing, so I bought the 'BERU' ones which are actually fitted as standard to some years and then the Premium OE ones which I'm about to take try out tomorrow when I take the others back. I wasn't even aware that there where different specs of them, obviously different quality but its the same part number be it a 150bhp golf GTI or a 225bhp Leon Cupra R.... And yet I put the old ones back in and the fault code goes away..... Anyone else seen this?

Removed and cleaned every sensor on the Engine, emptied catch tank and replaced all four Coilpacks!

Just wondering if anyone has come across this themselves? I had a mixture of different Coilpacks on my car after previous ones had blown and been replaced, but after replacing with brand new Beru Coilpacks I get an individual fault code for each one: 17763 17766 17769 17772 When I put my old Coilpacks on the fault goes away again? But on putting the new ones in again the car drives perfectly fine but the fault code causes the EML light to come on and it's described as open circuit. Anyone else experienced this before? Is it possible to be supplied with an incorrect coil pack? Muchly confused......

From the plugs point of view I took the Bosch super 4s out and replaced with the NGK's, and apart from feeling smoother to drive the problem itself hasn't changed in any way, so I've ruled out it being a plug problem. It's clearly over fuelling as the old plugs look like coal and you can still smell it pouring out the back. When it's in limp mode (from the first cold start) it drives perfect with no hesitation, but as soon as you reset it and boost starts to kick in the hesitation happens

That's true, I think they know everything there is to know about the 1.8t, but about the hoses etc, everything's plumbed together nice and tight, I've had plenty of boost leaks previous to this with the standard pipework, and this is a totally different feeling. It holds full boost perfectly if your planted, but it just splutters around that rev range. I'm just loosing the will to live with it, I'm frantically trying to track someone down with Vag Com in the Oxford area so they could run some live logs. But not even getting any luck with that :(

Ok, I'll start by saying thanks to all of those who helped out in the last post, but I thought I'd start fresh and clear up what I've done already Octavia 1.8T VRS (AUQ) It has a random misfire and holds back between about 2400 - 3000 RPM Throws no relevant fault codes up on the reader So far I've: Replaced MAF replaced N75 Replaced all four coilpacks Checked for broken/damaged cables on coilpack wiring harness Replaced plugs with BK7RE Checked and found no boost/Vaccum leaks (All replaced with Silicone) Cleaned throttle body Replaced inlet manifold gasket Used plenty of injector cleaner Run only on 99 octane Replaced fuel pump Replaced fuel filter Replaced FPR Replaced both Lamda sensors Is there something I'm missing or is that not pretty much the entire list of things that could possibly cause this misfire? Please help.........!!!! :(

Yep, that's my favourite juice too. My car seems to be a never ending circle of doom though, I solve the misfire, take it for a quick blast and shear a 'Mikalor' jubilee clip clean I half..... I heard the pop and knew it was just a pipe blowing off, but I can honestly say that's the last thing I expected to be broken, now replaced with a cheap and cheerful Halfrauds clip as luckily it happened just round the corner from one! I felt like Ray Mears performing a roadside repair!

Well guys, I've just got back from my break, fitted my new plugs BK7RE IX iridium, the car is so much smoother! Not 100% sure if the misfire has gone away yet but it wasn't there on the short drive I took it on, I will say though that the Super 4's I took out look like they had been recovered from a fire! I recently replaced a lambda sensor as it was over fuelling massively and maybe they were killed in the process! Who knows, I'll update after having a good drive tomorrow. Thanks for the advice! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

If your replacing the clutch there's two main options to look at, and this mainly depends on if the cars tuned or you plan to tune it. If your running standard power or just light tuning, I.e. exhaust/induction kit etc then just a standard clutch replacement will be fine If your planning on mapping then your best looking at changing over to a solid flywheel conversion, this is available as a kit from Euro car parts / GSF etc and offers a much more reliable alternative to the dual mass as fitted as standard, also, should the clutch ever go again you can just get away with changing the clutch plates as the flywheel is a lot stronger. The only downside to single mass is that you will feel a bit more feedback through the car / clutch pedal as the dual mass fitted as standard is designed to offer a bit of damping to eradicate this feeling. You'll probably find that converting to the solid flywheel that its actually cheaper than replacing the dual mass anyway, and the kits are relatively cheap across eBay and euro car parts etc. it's just the choice between comfort or performance and reliability. Hope this helps