Zib

Still on the original battery just short of 11 years old.

It's possible that the battery drained considerably whilst the car was being serviced. A decent long run or a proper charge of the battery may make all the difference.

From memory (because I no longer have the relevant car), there may be an option to enable or disable the aux input buried in the settings, which greys out the button if disabled. The input is audio only - you won't be able to control the phone via the car screen.

They are bi-xenon. There is a shutter in the xenon headlight unit that opens for main-beam. The halogen beams also come on.

Neither the 140 nor the 170 should feel sluggish, and even the 110 should be responsive at lower speeds, only feeling slightly underpowered when trying to accelerate from a higher speed (say, 60 mph plus). Their torque figures are broadly similar. It might be worth checking for any leaking hoses in the turbo/intercooler system since that can cause sluggishness. No doubt there are many other causes, especially if the mileage is high.

Did you turn the ignition on before realising any of the fuses were in the wrong place? Most likely thing is that you have blown one or more.

You most definitely can for the 110, 140 and 170 hp diesels, even if not spec'd from the factory. Not sure about the 150 hp diesel with AdBlu.

I go by this - but you need to look at both service and maintenance (scroll down the page). ŠKODA Servicing & Maintenance | ŠKODA UK (skoda.co.uk) In brief re maintenance Brake fluid - every 2 years Haldex oil - every 3 years or 30k miles DSG oil - every 4 years or 40k miles Cambelt/waterpump - every 5 years or 50k miles You may also want to add an aircon service - opinions vary about the necessity of this. Probably less necessary if you leave your aircon on more-or-less permanently, but if it doesn't blow cold, then it's likely the refrigerant has leaked. Aircon system cleanse you can easily do yourself if you get musty smells - no technical skills needed. Just buy and use a can of cleanser. Regarding the Haldex, be mindful that Skoda dealers do not change the filter, which clogs causing Haldex failure - I use an independent. There are threads about this if you search.

Skoda did several versions of the Bolero, so make sure you have the correct set of instructions for yours. Have you tried a system reset by pressing and holding the on/off button for several seconds (a quick internet search suggests 3 or 10 seconds)? If you are getting any music at all through BT Audio, then the phone is at least doing some level of pairing with the system. Part of the issue with diagnosis is that it could just as easily be an incorrect setting on the phone as on the Bolero unit. I don't have an iphone, but is there any setting that restricts the Bluetooth to audio only, rather than audio and calls?

I personally like a heated windscreen (although our Yeti doesn't have one), but some people do find the heating filaments distracting, particularly in low sunlight. So if you have never had a car with a heated windscreen, it may be a good idea to sit in one to check you are ok with it.

Like Austin 7, I switch between 17" and 16" rims summer to winter, and I would second those comments. To me, the balance of ride vs handling is better on the 16" rims. I'd suggest you get wheels with the same spec as the 16" rims fitted as standard to some models, and use a tyre size shown inside your filler cap since these will all meet the approvals and therefore should not count as a modification. Take a look at The Plumber's excellent guide on Yeti tyres and rims here:

Our 2012 Yeti 1.2 TSI DSG averaged 40.7 mpg over 39000 miles. Our 2015 Yeti 2.0 TDI 170 DSG has so far averaged 45.5 mpg over 40000 miles. Same drivers, similar journeys. Both figures brim-to-brim, not Maxidot, which was/is invariably optimistic (2% in the TSI, 6% in the TDI).

That implies to me that the battery is dead. But the question is why.

With your anticipated mileage, will that be a few longer (>10 mile) journeys, or more shorter ones? If the latter, any modern diesel may be problematic because the emissions control systems don't have long enough to clean themselves out. That's why cars in the Channel Islands are pretty much all petrol. But if the former, then you will be fine, and in your position I'd look for a manual 140 TDI, probably SE or Elegance/SEL spec. If you rarely drive briskly, then the 110 would be fine. Whatever AWD you get, make sure the Haldex has been maintained properly (or be prepared to get the oil changed asap). See threads on this forum.

Another thing you can do is make sure all the interior lights are turned off, to the switch position that means they do not come on when you open the doors. This includes the two in the rear. Leave them off for a few weeks to see if that improves things. (Turn them on if you need them, but off again afterwards.) I don't think anyone else has said this, but unless your mileage is tiny each journey, something is faulty. What puzzles me most is your comment that it is not now even jump-starting. Is the starter motor not operating, or the engine not catching? Even if the other car battery is a bit smaller, as long as it is decently charged, it should be able to start your Yeti as a one-off.