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Mrr4nd411

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Posts posted by Mrr4nd411

  1. 1 hour ago, Mickmartin said:

     

    I'm sure I read the OP put "steel seal" in as a quick fix to repair the head gasket, This could in theory cause blockages as I personally wouldn't dare put  that or similar products like rad weld etc in a modern car, never mind  of these little complexed engines.

    Agreed, under normal circumstances I wouldn’t put steel seal into any engine but after ringing round a few garages and a very specialist who all refused to do a HG (the specialist actually quoted me for a new long block with a total price of £5200) I felt it was a do or die situation for my engine, as it turns out the leak tester showed the HG leaking pre steel seal and not leaking after (still wouldn’t advise anyone using steel seal), there may well be a blockage somewhere though, unsure if it was blocked before or not though.

     

    1 hour ago, Mickmartin said:

     

    Bare in mind, You can pretty much pick up a whole car for the money some breakers want for an engine, Break the car and make your money back if your heading this route.

    I have a plan for my parts and a spending limit, I will update if all goes to plan with a total cost breakdown in the future. If not I will probably break the car as it’s in very good condition 

  2. 24 minutes ago, J.R. said:

    I have not read all the postings but have you not tried a cheap combustion residue test of a sample drawn from the coolant? They are very cheap, easy to use and will tell you definitively if the problem is a combustion leak under boost.

    I haven’t seen a tester that uses the coolant as a sample, I have used the tester that uses a liquid that reacts to co2 attached to the top of the expansion tank, but applying boost while testing is challenging, too sudden accel/decel while having it attached either blows the liquid out the tester or sucks it into the expansion tank, plus the bonnet needs to be open and I don’t have anywhere to do it that isn’t public, if you have an example of the tester can you link it? 
     

    thanks!

  3. 1 hour ago, sepulchrave said:

     

    I think you're almost there, you've proved the engine core is solid so you don't need to change it.

    Flush the cooling system properly with a hose while the thermostats are out in case there is oil emulsion from the previous HGF trapped in the rad or the matrix.

    Yes, I think this will be a last ditch effort, but your right, it’s worth trying before going to the effort of removing everything, when I have some time I’ll have a go!

  4. 57 minutes ago, bigjohn said:

    It has two cooling circuits with the two water pumps & thermostats - designed for rapid warm up to reduce emissions etc.

    Hey @bigjohn 

     

    I have replaced the mechanical water pump as I had read it was a common failure point, I haven’t touched the aux pump however flow in the pipes can be felt while the pump if running after turning the car off, I guess it could not be working optimally, as for the stats I have recently removed both, keeping them out isn’t a long term solution, it was more to see if it changed my symptoms, I found one stat had been broken closed and thought this was the answer to my nightmares however even with completely free flow I am still having overheating.

     

    The rad has crossed my mind multiple times however while the engine bay is covered in coolant residue the rad appears to have none, I haven’t checked temps across the core but top and bottom pipes are both hot after a short drive, what’s bothering me the most is that I can drive the car around at 30-60mph with light throttle with zero issues, but sustained 70mph or 3/4 throttle accelerations is causing temp changes to oil and coolant and a loss of coolant too.

     

    Because of this I think the engine failure is only showing up under boost, considering the level of workmanship I have uncovered so far on relatively un-invasive work I have serious trust issues. Although I would love to know the issue for my own peace of mind and possibly to help others in a similar situation in the future. Since the car does run and drive and completes some journeys with no issue I’ll probably continue driving it until I’ve found a suitable donor engine 😞

     

    I can’t lie I have fallen in love with my little fabia but until I stop staring at my temp gauges I can’t really enjoy it

  5. Okey dokey..

     

    little update:

    compression test and leak down test done today,

     

    compression on all 4 cylinders was between 145-150psi.. nice and matchy 

     

    leakdown test was below 20% on all 4 cylinders.. again nice and matchy… 

     

    Still over heating.. still losing coolant. Still no sign of where coolant is going, noticed it spitting some watery substance from the exhaust when bounced off the 4K soft rev limit, didn’t smell like antifreeze but probably is.

     

    at this point I think I’m going to change the engine, I’m sick of this one, I’ll take this engine apart once it’s out the car

  6. 1 hour ago, Mickmartin said:

    Can send you over the workshop manual if you need it.

    Thank you and Yes please, that would be very helpful

     

    Yeah I think it’s time I accept that it’s the HG, even though I’ve found issues elsewhere it does keep coming back to HG, at this point it’s wondering if I should just replace the engine,

     

    the thought crossed my mind about picking up a written off polo blue gt (2015/16 1.4 turbo) and swapping the engine in(and mapping it to 180bhp) the loom would be a PITA but at the end of it I would have a car with the same power that’s more economical and more reliable.

     

    if I do all that work to find a crack in a cylinder wall or a warped head I think it might break me. Especially as I fear I’m going to uncover more of this engines secrets the further I dive into it.

     

    out of interest how many hours go into changing the HG on this engine?

     

  7. 11 minutes ago, Wino said:

    I wouldn't. 

    I think that's been consigned to history. More likely the head needed a skim but didn't get one, at a guess.

    According to the garage the head was sent off to be skimmed

     

    but if it was a warped head surely I would be loosing coolant all the time and not just under high boost conditions? 
     

    unless there’s something I’m missing…

  8. So today had another successful trip and a less successful return trip..

    (40mins there, 50mins back)
    no over heating at all on either trip though!! Which is a biiiig improvement, max 95degC oil temp both ways


    On the way there I drove very gently, but still did the speed limit (probably 10 mins or so at 70mph) didn’t loose a drop of coolant!

     

    on the way back I spent less time at 70 but I let the car have a few more aggressive accelerations (3x 5k gear changes in 2nd) and I’ve lost maybe 200ml of coolant…

     

    call me crazy but would anyone have a reason for this other than the head lifting?

     

    ive so far not been impressed with the work that was carried out when the head gasket was done so why would I not suspect the head not being torqued properly or not re torqued after a heat cycle?

     

    I don’t really fancy taking the rocker cover off and I’m not even sure if the head bolts are accessible without removing the cams so if anyone has something else I should try first let me know

     

    cheers 

    Tom

  9. 4 hours ago, Wino said:

    Maybe the oil cooler would be a good thing to check for coolant blockage/flow. I assume there is one.

    While I believe I have the temps more under control now I might be treading on my own toes, without thermostats I am not getting enough flow to the heater core, not too concerned however looking at the coolant diagram I may not be getting enough flow to the oil cooler either.

     

    at this point I’m probably over thinking everything and I’m just writing my random rambling thoughts in this forum but only having the time to work on the car once a week for 6 hours means I’ve got far more time to think about the problem than actually solve it 😓

    6E66AE07-CE1D-4736-BFB4-662B26B04812.jpeg

  10. 15 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

    That's a good catch with the thermostat, having run engines on the dyno I don't like to see oil temps much above 120 degrees because hot spots will be getting marginal, whatever you do don't even think about oil temperatures on the turbo return or you'll have a full on nervous breakdown and need a different forum!

    Thanks! I promise I won’t look!

     

    been reading up on people saying A car shouldn’t even be reaching 90degC coolant without thermostats..

    tempted to pull all the hoses and the rad and flush them through, make sure there’s no blockages,

     

    didn’t notice any expanded hoses when I was poking around after it was up to temp so I’m thinking they don’t need replacing.

     

  11. As I understand it around 145degc is when a synthetic will degrade, don’t take my word for it, this is just what I have read, in my case I believe my engine with little load shouldn’t be running so hot, even if it’s not doing damage to the oil I still feel there is something not quite right. Especially when people with the same engine are reporting much lower temps.

     

    sounds like your car is working properly, if you run the car unloaded would the temps be between 90 and 100 on the flat? 

     

    Hopefully an oil change for me will answer my question or create many more.

     

  12. 26 minutes ago, Kobayashi said:

    Does the manual oil temp gauge move from 90c ie past the 50% mark ,as I've seen mine at 107c on digital but it has never moved from 90C

    No, the coolant temp gauge sits perfectly at 90degC, the digital oil temp get up to 107degc, I’ve been driving it gently though, i haven’t tried hard acceleration yet, going to try a few more gentle drives before I test it more, still think the oil is getting hotter than it should be 

  13. On 16/09/2021 at 20:48, sepulchrave said:

    Let us know how you get on.

    Okay here goes…

     

    removed thermostats:

    front thermostat appears in good order, no buildup on it removed anyway

     

    rear thermostat had lots of white calcium buildup on it.. and the coolant sat behind the plunger was white.. assuming previous owner kept topping it up with tap water.. thermostat removed

     

    I cleaned the housings, light dusting of o-ring grease, and refitted,

     

    Fresh coolant goes in and bled the system (took ages but I think it’s bled now)

     

    not getting hot air in cabin (slightly warm), I can only assume this has to do with not having thermostats to restrict coolant in certain directions to properly flow to the heater core, not majorly concerned.

     

    results:

    coolant temp is absolutely solid now at 90, no concerns about the coolant not flowing properly etc, also no obvious loss of coolant so far (several short drives and a 40-45minute motorway trip

     

    However oil temp is still concerning me, it got up to 107 on a steep uphill 50mph burst and was around 105 motorway cruising, I understand this could be sensor deviation but I’m still concerned about the oil that’s in the car, I would have changed the oil today but couldn’t get my hands on a filter and didn’t see the point in changing it without fitting a new filter,

     

    Also did a combustion test again, no sign of HG leak, even tested to tester on the exhaust to make sure it was working and it is!

     

    This is my update for now, I have a 40 minute trip to make on Tuesday, hopefully it’s another successful journey.

     

    I feel like I’m getting closer to resolving this!

     

    thanks

    Tom

  14. Thank you for all your responses, so I’m not saying your wrong about HG as tbh it’s been a high possibility from day 1 but I’m going to throw a spanner in the works

     

    When i initially thought it was HG I bought a combustion tester and sure enough it turned yellow indicating exhaust gasses in the coolant

     

    I figured I had nothing to loose and poured in some steel seal..

     

    since then I have rechecked with the combustion tester multiple times and it hasn’t changed colour at all, not only that but there’s no white smoke from the exhaust and the tail pipes are never wet.

     

    this is the one thing that’s throwing me off HG and why I think something else caused the old HG to go,

     

    I have changed the waterpump

    now and that improved things slightly, I think my next step is going to be fit the cap I have just bought and possibly remove the thermostats.


    If that fails I’m not sure how much more time and money I’m willing to put into it, real shame because it’s a fantastic little car

  15. 15 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

     

    He didn't get it done, it was done by the previous owner, if you overheat any engine badly enough it'll blow the HG.

    Yeah I believe there’s an underlying issue causing the overheat and the previous owner ignored it until the HG went.

     

    yesterday morning it drove for 40 mins of mixed motorway, 50ave zones and city driving and maintained 104degC oil temp, and lost a very small amount of coolant,

     

    yesterday afternoon the exact same journey in reverse it immediately overheated. Also the coolant is being compressed into the hoses, (I get a low coolant level warning, coolant bottle empty, when I release the cap it refills the expansion tank), I’m not sure what’s causing this, I have ordered a new cap which is arriving today (febi branded) other than that I’d be guessing at thermostat/thermostat housing.

     

    When the HG was done none of coolant residue was cleaned so the engine bay is mostly white making it very difficult to figure out what’s old and what’s new, however I do find new marks on top of the expansion bottle which confuses me.

     

    as for replacing the HG no one I’ve called wants to touch it, the closest I’ve got to a repair bill is £5200 for a new engine 

  16. Thanks @sepulchrave

     

    i know I’m being a bit hyper aware and I defo haven’t learnt to trust the car yet (or trust the last garage that worked on it) especially since at no point during my ownership has it been in a reliable working condition.

     

    I guess I’m just trying to rule out small issues before any potential big issues,

     

    the 3 big problems I hope I have now solved, coolant loss, over heating coolant, and misfires,

     

    just want to get the car in to a state where I know when I get in that I’ll get to where I want to go, also this means any future issues I may be able to diagnose more quickly,

     

    I just want to learn as much as I can about this engine since it clearly has quite a few gremlins

     

    i think I’ll change the oil (£40 oil and filter isn’t the end of the world) if I’m still getting the same oil temps I’ll relax, like you said could just be sensor discrepancy,

     

    at least for now I know 30 min drives with gentle foot is fine, 

     

    I trust my own work so I guess the more I replace the more I’ll trust it

     

    Tom

     

     

  17. Thank you @e-Roottoot

     

    I have no idea what oil it’s running as it was apparently serviced a month before purchase and I only ever remember to check the level when the car is up to temp (shows over max) 

     

    might drop the oil and fill with 5w40 fs, any recommended brand?

     

    is there any other causes of high oil temp other than incorrect oil/oil level or possibly low viscosity from previous overheating?

     

    I don’t even know is these engines have a dedicated oil cooler or where it’s located, 

     

    thanks

    Tom

  18. Hey guys, I changed my water pump yesterday and after getting up to temp before driving and then driving for 30 mins the car didn’t over heat, want to do some more/longer/higher speed trips to see if it’s completely resolved or not, just wondering but what kind of temp is normal for the oil on these engines?

     

    with a very relaxed drive with a few spirited accelerations I was at 104degC, is this what’s expected? I know the twin chargers are a very hot engine anyway

     

    thanks

    Tom

  19. @Kobayashi thank you,

    the more I think about it the more your answers make sense, 

     

    the coolant is getting to 90 and holding until the oil reaches 100 or so then the coolant starts rising,

     

    must be a duff pump, surely it wouldn’t hold 90 otherwise, even a leak in the system would cause the coolant to continuously rise in temp,

     

    have to dig into it after I’ve sold my bmw now, can’t keep paying for double insurance!

     

    lucky that my other Skoda hasn’t missed a beat in 5 years of ownership ☺️

    • Like 1
  20. Good afternoon!

     

    recently bought my 4th Skoda 

    an immaculate 2011 vrs white with black roof and some extras (rear electric windows, sun roof, climate control)
     

    prior to purchasing I was aware of the many issues surrounding these engines and did a fair amount of research and felt confident about inspecting it,

     

    id say I’m mid to good at knowing my way round a toolbox so 90% of problems I should be able to solve.

     

    the only issue expressed by the seller (private sale) was that it was consuming some coolant and he couldn’t figure out where but it had had the head gasket done (and head skimmed) in March this year, the engine bay shows evidence of the HG clearly going quite spectacularly!

    on my drive home the car overheated and misfired although I could control the temp by coasting.

     

    I believe I have fixed the misfire, I discovered that there were 2 different types of spark plug fitted… I have fitted the NGK BKR7IEX as recommended, since then no misfire.

     

    As for the overheating I am baffled, did a combustion test on the coolant, no obvious signs of leaking, no smudge in the oil, oil level is good, the only thing I have noticed happened today, I had fitted a new expansion cap, unaware that it was about 0.5mm OD smaller than the original the coolant boiled over past the cap, dropping all the coolant in the system.

     

    Thermostats or water pump seem to be the obvious culprits, I’m reluctant to replace the water pump as the garage that did the HG say that they replaced it (although the spark plug discovery isn’t filling me with confidence) 

     

    I’m wondering if there is anything about the cooling system that I don’t know about that might be causing it, as trying to search for overheating issues with this engine isn’t revealing anything

     

    side note there is a high pitched noise (almost like an air raid siren) coming from the belt drive system, I believe it to be ac compressor or alternator bearing, it stops the moment the car is revved above idle and only returns once returned to idle, could this be the water pump? The noise seems more towards the front of the engine rather than the pump but as I’m thinking it’s alternator or ac I’ve kind of been ignoring it.

     

    Thanks in advance! 
    Tom

    81B212D4-B186-4760-B0F2-48075E316775.jpeg

  21. So a bit another quick update and some more info:

    last week the car went into profusion customs for a cat back exhaust and the guys there did an amazing job! The sound is exactly what I wanted, I nice noise under full throttle with a few little crackles and pops but almost silent when cruising, then this morning remap kings came out to do a stage 1 remap which makes the exhaust sound even better, the diffuser and arches are also painted gloss black now, this car is really starting to come together!

     

    arches : eBay universal fender flares 70mm

    wheels: cromodora bully 17” built to 10.5j front and 11.5j rear (unknown et)

     

    the diffuser is from CSR 

     

    i still have more more in the box of goodies in the garage ready to go on (more bodywork) 

     

    watch this space

    3FEA9C1A-9A53-47C7-8D52-316493C9C45A.jpeg

    • Like 1
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