Sharpyy

It will be a slightly different setup on the BMW though, I'd hazard a guess that the same principles still apply.

I had the same problem as this, I think you commented on it mogwye. Have you tried the solution I found with the diesel purge?? The whole set up cost me £15 and it stopped my ticking injector. Let me know if you need help with this but Youtube has a really good instructional video for a PD engine.

Is it 100% coming from the injectors?

A long thread, some big washers and a few nuts to make a puller then have at it !!

I directly messaged them on Facebook and they took a week to get back to me, I ended up getting one from other sources.

I'll be there too, two birds with one stone as it's fathers day Sunday

So they are, looks like I'm ordering another two couplers and a 90 degree bend.

Forge is on my list of next to buy mate then I will replace the 90 degree intercooler pipe with the one from SFS as described below in your original thread.. That alongside new seals and clips can only help the situation. Also going to clean the whole intake/intercooler and do the elephant mod at the same time, I've got access to a local dyno as well so I'll show the befores and afters.

I was lucky enough to find it on eBay for a bargain price of £3, it was a one off though. I know Pepper Performance (you can find them on Facebook) do them in stainless ally, just send them a message or call them. You're looking for 75 degree mandrel bent 51mm (2") pipe.

The turbo one has to come from Forge as it's a high temp one but I'm torn between the SFS one or making my own on the bottom pipe to the cooler. What's your plan?

This is different on the Fabia Vrs, there's a black plug that has to be removed and you have to use a small drill bit (3-4mm) to lock the selector. Everything else is the same though :yes:

Thanks to CarlVrs' list (which can be found here) I ordered the top boost pipe replacements to cure my boost leak. The parts turned up today, next stop is the bottom boost pipes!

There should have been a bit more info on the first fault code which would maybe give you a more detailed fault. What's the code you had, copy it word for word and repost. Just check the vacuum pipes are all connected and not leaking/split.

18263 - Powertrain Data Bus: Software Version Monitoring P1855 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent Any further details?? P1556 - Charge pressure control.. Check your vacuum pipes

Fairly small show mostly full of air cooled Dubs, I went last year and it was pretty good to be fair: http://www.aliveandvdubbin.co.uk/

I'm in

Anyone from Briskoda going to this at Jimmys Farm near Ipswich??

Mr Muscle trick??

PROBLEM SOLVED !! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: Number 3 injector was playing up and showing an irregular value in VCDS (can't remember what value) so I followed the diesel purge video on Youtube for PD engines, NOT putting it in the fuel tank to dilute but directly into the fuel system. No more ticking! Thanks for all your comments and I'm glad I didn't completely rule out the injectors. No harm in giving it an engine flush, it won't do any damage at all.

Small update: I've purchased some Liqui Moly Diesel Purge which i'm going to apply after the fuel filter in a closed circuit. If it changes anything I'll let you know. Have you given yours an engine flush? Yours sounds oil flow related due to it only happening when the engine is cold.

I'll give this a look-see and that might narrow it down. I've got a friend on the forum who has the same engine as mine and there is no ticking from his. I don't want to rule out the injectors completely yet though as some say there can be a ticking from a dirty injector, there's no harm in giving it a direct diesel purge. I'm 100% sure it's not a normal diesel noise, it's a light ticking that can be heard with the bonnet closed and the engine cover on. It's been like it since it was purchased, 1 & 4 on the cam were worn. I know it seems a bit anal to be going this depth into it but it bugs me not knowing what it is and I don't want it to develop into further problems. Thanks again!

An engine flush won't do any harm I guess, It's had 3 oil changes in the last 3,000 miles so it's not the oil. An air lock would still be under pressure though wouldn't it, surely not enough to make them bounce around. Thanks for your help. I agree, it would be another possible problem off the checklist. The strainer isn't something I'd thought of really, it's no where near of a nightmare job compared to the camshaft change so it's worth half an hour to take it off. Before that though, I'm going to flush it and add a magnetic sump plug to see if that picks up anything. Thanks for your help

I had this problem recently and after changing the camshaft and tappets it's no better, I'm looking into whether oil pressure can be the problem behind this.

I know it will do no harm, just would like to know what is causing it is all :evil: It's the same whether it's from cold or hot. Might try an engine flush and see if that makes a difference?

I recently changed my camshaft, liners and tappets due to excessive wear thanks to previous owners running the wrong oil. Before I changed these, there was a ticking sound coming from the tappets when the engine was idling. I was hoping to cure this when the camshaft & tappets were changed but it still does this, not as often but still the odd ticking noise. It doesn't effect performance or fuel economy it's just annoying and something isn't right. I set up the timing using VCDS so now it's 0.5 degrees and I don't think it's the fuel injectors as it's not a rhythmic ticking, my theory is the oil pressure is not high enough to adjust the hydraulic tappets. Is there an easy way to check the oil pressure, maybe using VCDS? Any help is appreciated.