Ooopnorth

I most definitely put myself in that class (ahem..)

Ere' ...It's hard to know what to believe these new-fangled, phishing, taking-the-'michael' days. But, why would he be telling porkies? As it happens, I can only, quite self-evidently, drive like I do anyway

Is this true? Collecting my car last week from the dealership with delivery miles on it, the branch manager, who handed it over to me, explained that the car would learn (onboard computer, etc.) my particular driving style in the first 500 to 1000 miles and then it would be fixed (albeit that it could be reset by servicing IT gismos if urgently needed). Consequently, his advice was that if i wanted the vehicle to be 'brisker' later in it's life I should drive accordingly during this mileage range with the proviso that during the running-in period (also 1000 miles) I didn't go over 4000 rpm, or brake overly hard (unless in an emergency). Indeed, he suggested that doing some towing during this period could be beneficial. I haven't and won't be towing. I'd gleaned enough generally to know that running-in involving lots of steady revs such as long motorway driving wasn't ideal, and that a wider rev range was apparently best practice (hence the drive home down the twisty A7 through the Scottish borders), but having a fixed, 'forever' driving style! Maybe that has it's benefits? What are the implications if you buy a used car with higher mileage, if that's true?

I've been adopting this option now (into N and electronic parking brake on) for the last couple of days and all seems fine. As with this vehicle the electric parking brake doesn't have to be switched off (it does it automatically when you move off in D), it's even easier than in the manual car with the mechanical handbrake needing to be button pressed and lowered - not that that was any great chew either.

Great posts here. Thanks to everyone for their opinions. I'm sorted now. It's going to be into N and parking brake on when in the described situations.

Thanks 'guys'. This is all very helpful info for me. The gearbox concerned is a CVT! That's right, I've traded in the Yeti (tearful sniffle) for a Subaru Outback. We're keeping the Fabulous Fabia, as it's our regular nip down to the shops set of wheels and general; runabout second car (we live in an isolated, rural, very hilly, spot which is several miles from 'civilisation'). I'd have preferred another manual but that was all that was on offer in the model choice and, as I said above, I'm finding it quite enjoyable to drive. PS - I did research this thoroughly beforehand and I'm aware of the reported issues and quibbles about CVTs, etc., but with a 5 year warranty I feel reasonably reassured. Time will tell, eh?

Agree, I tend to switch the auto stop start off automatically (I don't live in an urban area and on our Skodas (X2 past and present) the cars used to regularly stall when it was on), but, yes, that's another permeation I'd not even thought about if it was engaged. Yeap, B seemed dodgy to me too.

Yeah, that makes sense to me too..but reading the car's handbook the only description for using N (n the Driving the Vehicle section) was when the battery was dead and the car needed to be pushed, moved somewhere, or when 'starting a stalled engine' (not sure how that would happen in an automatic, but hey-ho).

First time ever driving an automatic and I'm enjoying it, but.... I'm trying to find an answer to what to do with the gears when drawing up to, say, traffic lights, where it's not just a momentary halt but likely to be a minute or indeed more. In a manual I'd shift into neutral and pull the handbrake on. But what about in an automatic? I've searched the internet, YouTube and looked at the highway code and there's no definitive answer. Choices seem to be: A. Stay in Drive, foot on the footbrake. Easy and quick to move off from but leaves drivers behind looking at bright brake lights and also if I'm shunted from behind or my foot slips off the brake we move forward. B. Stay in D but put the parking brake on and release the footbrake (strain on the transmission?), or put the AVH on? C. Shift into N and either keep my foot on the footbrake or put the parking brake on? Advantages - easy and quick to move off, but clearly less secure if shunted? D.. Go the whole-hog and shift into P and put the parking brake on? Advantages are secure, but disadvantages mean slower to move off and also while shifting back to D and passing through N the reversing lights momentarily come on, which I've seen happen when behind a car and now understand why. This can be disconcerting for the driver behind - I know! E. Any other answers? - No reference to anchors please

Very good suggestion. I found this Michelin tyres aren't bananas :) Now you've got me thinking, as I'd concluded it wasn't worth the risk... ummmmm !

Yeah, I was coming to that conclusion, but then thought about other issues. The tyres are being sold by a 'trading' company down in Bedford. I looked on their website and they mainly sell stuff like boxes of crisps, cooker cleaning fluid and cheesy wootsits So, I was wondering how these tyres have been stored since 2018. On top of a cupboard, under a skylight. Under tons of Haribos, and the like. So I'll give it a miss this time. Thanks for you reply though. PS I like your Border Terrier (?) photo.

I'm looking for a single tyre to match the other four on the car - Bridgestone Duelers . However, Bridgestone now say the tyre model I need is being discontinued. I eventually tracked one down on the 'internet in a rather obscure place, but the tyre is new. The tyre DOT is 48/18. I'd intended to use the tyre as part of a 5 pattern wheel rotation system. Current tyres are 43/19. Any thoughts?

Yes. I've been using the garage for many years now, having bought my first used Octi 4x4 1.8T from them, and they've serviced my two yetis and my partner's last two Fabia's. I rate them very highly and they've been more than helpful and fair with us. It'll definitely be sent back to them.

Agree. I use an independent Skoda Specialist, rather than a franchise Skoda stealership .

Mystery solved. I'm not going barmy, (well the jury is still out, but not conclusively - yet) and there was 'a thing', a foreign object, plugged into the port. The RAC chap pulled this out of it https://caristaapp.com/ I assume it was placed there during the last service. Re the engine management light - as happened before, it was a 'glow-plug' issue. RAC bloke thought that with the rapid drop in temp over the last 2 days (this morning it was -1 degree C up here), it triggered the light. He's reset it, via OBD, and restarted the engine. All seems fine, and the light hasn't come on again. Fingers crossed.

Thanks for the reply Graham. I can't believe I would have missed this white plastic light emitting object, as it's in such contrast to the rest of the dash and car's interior. The 'light' is emanating from within the body of the 'object', on one side, resembling some illicit tracking device! There are no serial numbers, leads or sockets, on it. S/Assist just phoned to say they'll be 30 mins or so - the suspense!

Had mine done at Brookroyd Garage, nr Harrogate a few weeks ago as part of a 60,000 miles service (and it required new discs and pads all around too - damn it!). Looking at the invoice, and picking out the belt change bits, it reads the 'timing belt kit' cost £90.19 plus VAT, (part n. INA530065010) and the water pump cost £115 plus VAT (part no. 201441312). Invoice quotes 'replaced cambelt and tensioner' £200.00 (that's £50 x4 hrs).

So I'm just waiting for the Skoda Assist 'chap' to arrive as my Yeti's engine management light came on this morning. Car runs and drives fine, no tickover issues, etc. Last time this happened it was a glow-plug issue, but maybe not this time. I thought I'd remind myself where the ODB port is. Down under the dash near the drivers right leg - yes? Except when I've just looked there I found a strange white plastic oblong thing with a red light in it shining where the port should be. I've not pulled at it or anything. The light on the 'thing' stays on even when the car door is shut (with the ignition off). Maybe its been there all the while that I've owned the yeti (4 years) and I've never noticed it before (how unobservant is that?) while cleaning the interior and washing the mats and pedal etc. But really? The car was serviced (60,000 mile) a few weeks ago, and has done only a 400 miles max since then so I'm also thinking it's something the mechanic left in the port? Anyway, Skoda Assist is due anytime now so I'll let you know, unless you can tell me before hand, that I'm a numpty and it's always there :) !

I have the same problem on my 2016 Yeti (manual) and since I've owned it (4 years). I now always switch the stop start off 'automatically' as soon as the engine is running. It only becomes a problem when someone else drives the car (not very often) and I've forgotten to remind them to ALWAYS switch the s/s off. As others have said above, it can be dangerous as it seems to cut out when just moving off, such as leaving me stalled and needing a manual start, while halfway across a carriage way, or when turning (usually right) at a junction. Very occasionally, it would start itself again when I dip the clutch. Hey ho!

I'm looking for something similar too. A nearly new 4X4 that's more robust than the Yeti. I'm ruling out all the new Kias, Hyundais, Toyotas (can't afford a nearly new LC) etc. so in my price bracket it's either a nearly new Shogun Sport (4) or an Outback. I need something that can reliably travel across a few fields and manage moorland, plus tow a horse box, and isn't too uncouth to use on the roads without breaking the bank in running costs. It needs a decent ground clearance and I also need a 4x4 (L4) system that I can use on the road (rules out many pickups) and not just on rough surfaces, so the SuperSelect II Mitsubishi system seems ideal. Weirdly, the recent Mitsi UK / Europe news coincided with me checking out a Shogun Sport (Commercial) at a local dealer and as a result has rather stalled my thinking at the moment on the SS. Yes, the price is great (they've even knocked £7,500 off the cash and PCP price in the last few weeks) and as it's basically a L200 parts should be readily available for years, and reliable. They can also be serviced at any garage as basically they seem to be rather 'old school' diesels. Possible warranty and recall issues have made me wonder though, and if the Colt Car Company goes tits-up, that could create some large ownership headaches. Obviously, resale value would be pants, although I'd be looking to keep mine. I've also kept an eye on Subarus for several years, but have always defaulted to a Yeti and borrowed a friends Sorento (older model) when needed. I have also been a bit put off by the reported boxer oil issues and the servicing difficulties, meaning my local, well trusted, independent Skoda mechanic has advised against a Subaru - they service a range of makes. Still there's a decent warranty and the Outback is a lotta car for the money (there's a new Outback coming so the present model may even get a bit cheaper). I'd be interested to know how you get on if you go for a SS or Outback.

Thanks for the advice guys. Appreciated.

Checking the Yeti yesterday (oil level, tyre pressures, etc.) I noticed the fluid level in the coolant reservoir was a few mms below the min level. The car has been standing idle for a week. Should I be concerned? If it needs topping up, what's the 'best' pre-mix to use? Thanks.

"The life of the engine". I guess that begs the question of whether such manufacturers have a similar expectation for the life of their engines compared to what many of their customers might hope for. While some manufacturers in the UK have recently started to offer 7 year/150,000 mile manufacturer warranties (Ssanyong for example) others don't (not yet anyway). But heyho these new fangled things 😄

Thanks for all the advice. I'd read somewhere recently that some vehicle manufactures have started to build engines and place the timing chain (not the belt as with the Yeti) INSIDE their engines, also with the water pump placed there too. Is that true and if so do you know which vehicles have this design (so I can avoid)?

Cheers Schtum, that's really helpful.👍