Ooopnorth

Phew...sorted. You're right. Those expanding rivets on the front mudflaps are annoying. They readily went through the plastic of the mudflaps and seemed to go into the drilled hole on the plastic lining, behind, but then completely refused to 'spread' and so languidly fell out with the merest movement of the mudflap. As you say, the flaps looked quite soldly in place without them, but I hate to be defeated so persisted (sort of!) With much effort, and patience, I managed to get the driver's side rivet to remain in place (for now as I'm not confident!). However, on the nearside I resorted to using an old Subaru spreading-rivet left over from when I put mudflaps on that. These are much more user friendly. They're the same size as the Skoda rivets (depth and diameter) but come in two parts, with a central pin, which you push down into the main body of the rivet, once it is in place, and the pin causes the rivet to splay and remain in place. They're useful because by removing the pin you can retrieve the rivet out again if necessary. The rear flaps were a doddle once I saw Mumpsim's helpful diagrams. Next it's the spare wheel kit and space saver wheel fitting. Again, no instructions and Skodapartsonline informed me that they're aren't any, and didn't point to where I might find one! Thank goodness for Briskoda!

Got it! (I think). It must fit like this....with the plastic jaws (see metal pen !) clamped as such. The 'little grey matter' isn't so sharp today!

Right, I'm thinking it goes like this: But which side of the plastic mudflap jaws?

It does!! Huge thanks. I can see in diagram 3 that the 'mushroom' fixture does into the vertical hole. Great stuff. But! Having started on the fronts, and readily got to the place where I need to tighten the clamps onto what Skoda call 'the beam' , the clamp assembly isn't clear from the diagram. It states "...in the lower section of the front mudflap, fit a retaining clamp (see arrow) in the correct position such that, when the screw is tightened , the clamp cannot slip outside the tabs on the mudflap (see detail). Fully tighten...) Unfortunately, to my perhaps needing-spec-savers-eyes, the 'correct position isn't clear at all. Below is a photo of one of the clamps, the screw and a 'plate', the latter of which I'm guessing fits somewhere between one side of the metal U-shaped clamp, and the plastic 'jaws' of the mudflap which surround the 'beam', although which way up isn't clear. It has a slot in the top section, which is slightly angled away from the rest of the item. I imagine this piece of metal works a bit like a spacer, but does it fit with the 'gap' upwards or down, with the angled section towards or away from the bolt passing through the u-shaped metal? Thanks for your patience!

So, it's a nice dry sunny morning here up north and the two sets of new mudflaps packages are staring at me from the kitchen table demanding to be fitted! I've just unpacked the sets and noted that unlike the front, there are no instructions for the rear set. No worries, I've fitted many sets before, so how hard can it be! First up, I married up the new rear flaps to their positions to see what's what. There are 2 torx screws already in the wheel arch lining which match nicely the two outer most holes on the mudflaps. So far so good. Checking where the lower two holes in the new mudflaps line up with (one a horizontal hole) and the other (the most inner hole which will have a vertical fitting, from the bottom upwards), both have two empty holes already positioned in the wheel arch lining also in the the correct place, so again, that's nice. But (there's always a 'but' isn't there?) of the six fixture items (2 torx, two 'mushroom-like' screws and two 'spikey' thingies) that come with the pack, the question is which of the latter goes where? See photo of the fixtures in question. I'm hesitant just to push them in and see, as experience has warned me that once in these things can be a devil to get out again. The front set of flaps come with instructions, so they look reasonably straightforward (huh!) to fit, albeit I'll need to drill two holes in the wheel arch lining to accommodate the, this time, two spikey, expanding things/fixtures (no mushroom shaped fixture this time!). Also, is it best to use the torx already in place on the vehicle's wheel arch linings, or to use the new ones supplied in the packages? All constructive advice gratefully received.

Went for these eventually: RIDEX 2070W0005 Wheel BoltBall seat A/G, 27 mm, silver, SW17, Steel, Male Hex Article number: 2070W0005EAN: 4059191605279 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ridex/13547056

Thanks for your thoughts on the price. I agree. I've had a look at a few Skoda UK parts websites but they're not listing basic bolts. I could give them a ring of course. No, I'm actually replacing all the security bolts with standard bolts. We've done this on all of our cars over the years after encountering some very annoying issues, such as changing the spare on a dark, cold winter road side and finding the anti-thief socket/bolt isn't playing fair. A few winters ago, on a cold evening outside the drive, I also managed to switch most of my summer alloys over to the winter wheels and tyres, but found that the security bolts on the last wheel just wouldn't budge. So, all in reverse and the summers back on again - urgh. Rush drive down to the nearest local garage for assistance, and they couldn't shift it either. Eventually. a few days later the local Skoda dealership drilled out the last intransigent security wheel nut and I had to buy a whole new set of security bolts (to pass on when I eventually sold the car). Alloys tend to not be stolen so much these days (am I tempting fate!), so they're more trouble than they are worth, just in my opinion of course.

Looking to replace the locking wheel bolts on the Karoq and wondered if either these: RYBO Alloy Wheel Bolts - M14 x 1.5, 27mm Thread, 17mm Hex | Replacement Bolt Kit for Audi & Volkswagen Car Models | Car Accessories (Silver, Set of 4) https://www.amazon.co.uk/RYBO-Alloy-Wheel-Bolts-Replacement/dp/B0DJR3CS9Z/ref=pd_ci_mcx_mh_mcx_views_0_image?pd_rd_w=c9YH9&content-id=amzn1.sym.d63274d0-bf52-45e7-ae69-2bcf85c5865c%3Aamzn1.symc.ca948091-a64d-450e-86d7-c161ca33337b&pf_rd_p=d63274d0-bf52-45e7-ae69-2bcf85c5865c&pf_rd_r=QW9BXSM2AT7XD6007SY3&pd_rd_wg=JnySx&pd_rd_r=13f6ff3f-7df4-4957-83c8-65ddd805afbb&pd_rd_i=B0DJR3CS9Z&th=1 or these: VAICO V10-3211 Wheel Bolt Length: 48mm, M 14 x 1,5 mm, M14x1,5mm, Spanner Size: 17, Ball seat A/G, Original VAICO Quality https://www.autopartspro.co.uk/skoda-carparts/karoq-nu7/128289/10313/wheel-bolt-and-wheel-nuts? would be equally suitable for a Karoq 2.0 Tdi 4x4 (2024) ?

I wonder if any other formites have any issues, such as rusting, with the towball once (as recommended) the powder coating is removed before using it for towing. Also, is the housing that the retractable towball is positioned in, when not in use, a source of problems, such as rust or build up of dirt?

The space saver wheel and fitting kit arrived yesterday and I'm planning on putting it all in the boot soon. I've had a quick glance and it all looks fairly straightforward, but wondered if there is any advice to save time or angst from other formites who have already completed the process. I've noticed already that apart from removing the reversible boot liner, that the carpet liner below that seems to need detaching from under the varioflex seats. There's are plastic torx type fixtures holding it in place under the seats. There aren't any instructions with the kit but the three pieces of foam (two half-circle shaped to surround the wheel and a straight piece for behind the seats?) obviously slot into the boot space. I seem to recall that when I fitted the kit in my last Yeti, that there were plastic screws that fixed the polystyrene 'boxes' to the carpet lining below the rear seats and fixtures to secure the boxes together. This kit looks different, and there are 'prongs' on the bed that I imagine hold the foam pieces in place. It looks like the raised boot floor will mean the tie-down points will be too submerged to have easy access to. I recall that last time I attached braided loops to these to provide some form of attachment for loads.

Do you know, after posting the above message I did wonder that myself too. I think you're right, that it may have been possible that she was so distracted by the newness of the procedure for her (DSG, electronic parking brakes, etc.) that she didn't have sufficient pressure on it. Thanks.

So we've had the Karoq for about a week now and my partner is getting used to driving the DSG auto after trading in her manual Fabia. Today, we drove for about 30 mins and then parked up. My partner stayed in the car, with the engine running (the weather was cold), parking brake on, while I called into a shop, before returning some 10 mins later. She then tried to shift from P to R, but she couldn't move the shifter. At first we thought this was down to her rheumatoid arthritis affecting her grip we thought this might be affecting her ability to press in the shifter button. But then I tried and the shifter wouldn't move for me either. So, as one tends to do in tech problems, we switched it (the engine) off and then turned it on again. All sorted, following the restart. But I'm concerned that I don't know why this happened and I'm not sure if it's a fault with the DSG or something we did or didn't do correctly. I've been driving a Subaru auto with CVT for 3 years now and have never had a similar issue, but I'm aware from the Subie manual that there is a possibility as the owner's handbook explains the process for freeing the stuck shifter. I've scanned the Karoq manual and noticed a similar set of advice there too. The car has clocked up 700 miles from new. It was in Eco mode (not sure that's relevant). Any thoughts?

Ah, that could be it. This 4x4 car comes with the Performance Pack.

Over the past few weeks I've spent an unhealthy number of hours closely scrutinising autotrader and other sources for the details, stats, photos, etc. of far too many Karoqs, and especially those with 4x4, prior to purchase. It's just out of my idle curiosity, but does anyone know why for some vehicles with 4x4, the offroad button (i.e. top-left of the 5 buttons circling the lower half of the gear shifter cluster) is there, marked 'offroad' in place, while in others it's blank? It doesn't seem to matter whether the vehicle is older or brand new, Sportline or SE L. I haven't checked whether diesel or petrol is a factor. Is this just a random thing, depending on whoever was on the production shift that week in the factory, or does it have some deeper meaning ?

Sorted! It's an Apple/Android thingie. Downloaded the MySkoda app onto my partner's Samsung phone and there it was, plus a few other items/options not available on Apple app. Thanks for the above hints, etc.

Yes, that's where I thought it would be having watched a short vid. above. But the MySkoda app, in the inspect menu only has 'Driving Data' (distance; travelling time; speed; fuel consumption), "Vehicle Health Report' (last update" We have not found a defect') and "Service Partner (leads to a map of local dealerships). In the other sections the Home lists 'does and lights' or Vehicle Status (range). The 'More Tab' looked more promising and lists 8 categories, but searching each revealed no Digital Certificate. I wonder if the change to MySkoda from 'Skoda Connect' has removed this option to generate a Digital Certificate. I've also looked at the Skoda Connect - Lite app in the Apple Store - no joy there either. Hey ho...

Is the Digital Certificate still available? I ask as I've just signed our vehicle up to Skoda Connect and can't find that section in the App.

This is all very helpful - thank you. As one of my favourite economists/philosophers says: “There are no solutions. There are only trade-offs.” ― Thomas Sowell

I've noticed that some of the genuine Skoda winter wheel/tyre combos come in 215 width, and I wonder if that is to do with: 1. Belief that narrower tyres are better in snow, although this suggests not (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wf_mIlU82Ac 2. Snow chains fit more readily on a narrower tyre? Our Karoq came with 225s, hence that sizing for a straight swap- summers to all-season.

Decisions! Decisions! Still can't decide whether to buy a set of winter rims for the Karoq or to just go for all-seasons and be done with it. Swap off the current Goodyear Eagle F1 tyres that came with the car and store them incase we need a new set (following a major unrepairable tyre damage event) of tyres. I appreciate the alloys will have to brave the worst of the winter salt, but we could always buy new alloys many years down the line (we tend to keep our cars for 8yrs plus on average) if needed. Thoughts on the CC2 (I know they get good online reviews, but...)?

Thanks. Yes, it has the performance package. I'll check that out.

Experimenting with the new (to us) Karoq while driving home, I noted that if we put the car into 'eco' mode and then later selected 'comfort', the car switched itself from eco to comfort. It seems both can't be selected simultaneously . That is, you can't be frugal and comfortable at the same time . I understand that sport mode stiffens the suspension, and so would be incompatible with the softer suspension setting of 'comfort', but eco? Any ideas/explanations why?

That's clearly the case and I've found on Skoda UK's website the following: and https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/aeea340d-ab9b-4f3b-99a1-61ed5924c575 What's confusing (probably only to an old duffer like me!) is that the dealership's card glossy folder boasts, on the inner leaf: "Free Roadside Assistance and Breakdown Cover: All new and used cars sold come with 12 months Free Roadside Assistance and Breakdown Cover including Home Start". So actually new or nearly new cars have the reminder of the 3 yrs warranty and RA since first registered!

Yes, that's what I thought too. Did your car arrive with any documentation detailing this? It seems strange to have no mention at all in our bundle of docs. Thanks.

Sorry, but another basic question- on this topic. Do all new Skodas come with 3 years Roadside Assist? And if so, is this transferred to a pre-reg car when sold? I intend to email the dealership tomorrow, but thought I'd ask here too for confirmation. We collected the car last week but have spent the last few days away with friends so I have really had a great chance to check this out. On my previous Skodas (2x Yetis and an Octavia) the nearly new cars arrived with a great package of docs, glossy leaflets etc. with all the details in. This one only came with a slim 'cardboard box' with an equally slim manual and no details about the warranty, etc.