Ooopnorth

My partner is due to collect her new, to us, 2024 Karoq 2.0 TDi (150 ps) 4x4 SE L next week. She currently has a Fabia and when we bought it back in 2016 we ordered a set of steel wheels, shod it with winters, and over the years we've (I've) swopped over the wheels from November to April. I've wondered whether we should just put all season tyres on like a set of the well thought of Crossclimates, but we live at 1200 ft above sea level in a very hilly rural sport, wet sinking verges on single tract roads, etc., etc.) and we drive on and off sometimes muddy winter fields to do equestrian stuff. Consequently, we've put winters on both of our cars for years and have been well (and safely) served so far. As I do the swopping over on the drive it has allowed us to have the ease of changing whenever necessary, without having to go and book into tyre fitters. But, if we go for winter tyres and steels again, do you think these will fit OK? https://caffynscarparts.com/skoda-karoq-16-steel-wheel--bridgestone-winter-tyre-set-5095-p.asp I think the car currently has 225/50 R18 (the Skoda brochure says 215s! - but I think that's a typo?). It's dropping down 2' in diameter for the wheel from alloys to steels, whereas our current steels are just 1" smaller diameter than the summer Fabia alloys. My Subaru Outback also goes down from 18" alloys to 17" steels, without issues, but 16" ? I know the profile will be deeper and the ride softer, but wonder about any other issues I've not considered with this change. I appreciate the Bridgestones supplied on these rims wouldn't necessarily be our first choice, but they're a premium brand and will do initially. I'd welcome people's views - thanks in advance.

Thanks Kenny. I've read the blurb, but wondered whether day-to-day it made much difference for a 'standard' driver. We do live in a very hilly, rural spot in the, sometimes, snowy north Pennines, and we do drive on and off fields, along tracks and through shallow becks (to do horsey stuff). But we (my partner and I) aren't what you'd call sporty enthusiastic drivers, but rather 'steady away' folk. I've had two Yetis in the past, and they did have a tendency after 30,000 miles of ownership to go through a few coil springs. If this should happen with the Karoq with the 'performance pack', would we be looking towards a more expensive repair, or wouldn't it make any difference? The Skoda information above states that "the 4x4 variants will also benefit from Hill Ascent/Descent Control..." although my old 4x4 Yetis had that on the 'off-road' button.

Hi. On the same theme as this tread, can someone provide an 'idiots' guide to the 'performance pack' on the Karoq? I'm currently looking to buy a used diesel 4x4 and the performance pack comes with it. It's not something (I think) I'd usually ask for on a car, but if I want this particular used vehicle it's part of the deal. Specifically: 1. What is it? 2. What are the advantages? 3 Perhaps more importantly, what, if any, are the disadvantages?

My 2016 Fabia has just clocked up 77000 miles and looking through the past service receipts (Skoda specialist, not a main dealer) I can't see that the cambelt has not been changed yet - which seems fine from what I've read about servicing the Fabia. This year's service is due in a few weeks and I'm thinking the belt might be best changed about now. However, I'm wondering if this addition task to the annual service is something that any local competent garage might be able to do, instead of me driving further, and having to spend the day waiting, at my trusted indy Skoda I've been using for 20 years now with all of my Skodas. The alternative local garage I'm thinking of is in the next village, so I can easily get a lift home and get picked up by them later. While I really rate my indy Skoda dealer, it has always meant my having to take an hour to drive there, and kill time walking the streets of the local town until they complete the job. Now I'm getting on a bit, such wandering around and window shopping is a little more chanllenging, espcially if it's raining ! So basically - is the local garage likely to be readily able to do the belt too? Nothing too specilaist regarding the Fabia? Thanks in adavance for all helpful replies.

Thank you for your reply. I understand the points you make, but as stated above, a previous Skoda Assist callout had led to a moble mechanic (RAC) attending and fixing the problem (the slides on the calipers needed greasing), which he found out through a thorough investigation. Likewise, on another occasion when we had a tricky security wheel nut, while I was changing over to winter tyres, they came out, fixed the problem and changed all the wheels/tyres over for me too! Great service. On this occasion my partner, who owns the car, called Skoda Assist again to politely ask why it had been such a cursory visit. Apparently, the 'mechanic' had cited on his report that the brakes were "too hot" to work on. This was not true, and at no time did he state this to us,. Indeed they were cool to the touch after the 3 hours between telephone call and the visit. I was also suspicion when he asked when the car was last serviced and whether the breakpads had been changed. The last service was in October 2022 (6000 miles ago), and the pads had not been changed as not need (we've used the garage for our Skodas for over 20 years and they're great) He claimed "pads only last 15,000 miles or so!) If that were true (and I know it's not), we'd all be changing our pads every service, wih a 10,000 mile service interval. Anyway, Skoda Assist are sending another mechanic out to our home tomorrow morning, so we hope for someone who wants more than to tick off 'job done', on a sunday afternoon (he complained he hadn't had any lunch too, which given his girth may not of been a bad thing for his health, albeit adding to his irksome attitude at the time).

Our 2016 Fabia developed some offside front brake issues today. The tyre pressure warning signal came on. I stopped, checked all the tyres visually, and with no obviously low signs, and as we were just a few miles from home, we continued. Once home, I ran the pressure gauge and gave all wheels/tyres a check. All 2.2 bar (hot day/long run) except front offside which was 2.6, and that was obviously too hot to touch! With the amount of pad dust on the alloys it was clear the brake was sticking, causing lots of heat, affecting tyre pressure, caauing it to be higher than the other tyres, and hence the warning. A call to to Skoda Assist (we take this policy out each year), and they gave the option of a general roadside service today or a "specialist" service, but with the latter not until Tuesday. Opting for the former, we waited. A bloke turned up in a ittle van, from a regional garage. I described events to him, and after shining a touch onto the pads on each side; and fiddling with a trolley jack, and not being able to readily turn the problem wheel he also diagnosed the obvious. Now, in the past, when we had our old Fabia Scout, with the same issue at Tebay Services, the AA (also through Skoda Assist) - whipped the wheel off; pulled the caliper aways; freed the cylinder; and freed the pads - and we were away, down south and headed for a garage on return for a proper fix. Today however, after much sucking in of air, the lad said - "Can't do brakes on a roadside assist. Not allowed. You'll need to get a tow truck to the nearest garage next week. You might be able to drive it, but I can't advise". And with that, off he went. Can't say I was impressed, but maybe 'thems the new H&Saftey rules' and it's a tow truck to a shiny garage as the only option. Is that the 'norm' now"?

Yes, it is disappointing. Last year we had to replace the bushes on one of the suspension wishbones on the Fabia, and the indie Skoda Specialist I've been using for a couple of decades now, said they had to do quite a few on various VAG vehicles recently, and he also pondered on the quality issues with Skoda VAG parts. It was actually one of the reasons (albeit not the main one) why I decided against a Kodiaq when replacing the lovely Yeti (which had also gone through a noticeable number of pads and discs compared to my earlier Skodas) for a Subaru. We're also thinking its time to replace the Fabia and normally would have looked at the newer model or the Kamiq, but the Toyota Yaris Cross is now a possible contender. Having said that, I'll not be surprised if other manufacturers have similar quality of parts issues!

Thanks to everyone for taking the time to comment/advise and/or share opinions and experiences. I do appreciate Briskoda for it's wide community of collective perspectives. Really helpful and often thought provoking.

Thank you for replying. I understand that there will be some considerable variability in brake disc/pads durability across different drivers - as you say we all have different styles. But, as I mentioned, this was the same driver, driving the same routes since 2016. One set of original rear brake discs and pads lasted for approx. 40,000 miles, while their replacements only lasted approx. 20,000 miles. I'd always expect some variability in mileage duration, but 50% is too significant to be just down to general variability of quality. I should have perhaps been more succinct in my question and just asked whether replacement parts (Skoda) are less durable than the original parts. Thinking about this, it seems unlikely to me. Skoda/VAG wouldn't go to all the trouble of having various different production lines of different quality level, seems absurd (or would they!). Alternatively, perhaps there has been a marked decrease in the components quality generally over the last few years- cost cutting?. More troubling for me, is the thought of whether the independent Skoda specialist I've been using for years -and trusted - and understood to be providing genuine Skoda parts, has actually been providing non-genuine parts of inferior quality.

Please could you explain why this post has been moved from General Maintenance section to Skoda Fabia III section as it's a general question about brake discs and pads and their lifespan which applies to all vehicles. It's not Fabia specific and I mentioned the model simply for interest. I could have just as easily not have mentioned the model and it would have been just as relevant. Thank you. .

Today, my partner's Fabia started to have a regular 'thud', thud' sound coming from the rear brakes. We called Skoda Assist (AA) who came out promptly and found the rear discs were badly corroded and the surfaces had patches where the lining was missing. Clearly, new discs and pads will be required, and obviously the wear/deterioration was the source of the noise. So, I checked the service history and the original rear brake discs and pads had been replaced at 38,000 miles (2019). The replacements have therefore lasted only about 20,000 miles - nearly less than half the lifespan of the originals. Driver and driving conditions/style have been largely the same since the car was new (2016). Also, over lockdowns, as per usual, the car was left parked at home on a level drive with the handbrake off and in gear. We've always done that with our cars. Our Skodas (5 vehicles over the years) have been serviced at the same independent Skoda specialist we've been using for the best part of 25 years - no issues. I assume they've used genuine Skoda parts - that's what we've always stipulated. Am I being unreasonable to expect the rear discs to last longer than 20,000 miles, with the same driver doing the same type of driving as during the initial near 40,000 miles of the vehicle's life? Are genuine Skoda/VW replacement parts generally of less good quality than the out-of-the-factory parts? Thanks in advance for any comments/thoughts

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I've been impressed by the Alpins this winter, despite it not being the coldest of winters here in the Pennines. I wanted to have a set of steelies or cheap alloys for them, like I used to have on the Yeti and as I've put on my partner's Fabia. But supply issues from Japan meant the Subaru had to remain on the same original alloys. Consequently, the summers and winters come on and off the alloys. With their standard symmetrical non-directional tyres, Subaru recommend crossing the rears and moving them to the front, but just moving the fronts to the back. I can't see why I can't also do that with the Alpins, as they're off the alloys, and they don't have a designated inside/outside marking (they're symmetrical). I think (I'll stand to be corrected), the Subaru suggested rotation pattern helps to ensure even wear across the tread face and all the edges of the tyres. However, if I shifted front to rear on the same side it'll make no difference. Sometime it's possible to 'over-think' all this stuff

Ha Ha 😂 Don't beat yourself up. In the Grand Scheme of things it probably doesn't make 'a heap' of great difference. It's just that it gives me the warmth glow of self-satisfaction to have them neatly sorted and racked up (legacy of military training?).

Good. I'm not quite so weird then Just a thought. My winters are Michelin Pilot Alpin 5 SUV which are directional, but symmetrical (they don't have a deliberately marked 'outside' like some asymmetrical tyres). As they're now off the rims, I suppose they could in theory go back onto the vehicle next autumn 2022 in any corner, so long as the direction of travel was correct? As it happens, I have marked the whole set FN FO RN RO so know where they came off of. Obviously, when I've had directions tyres which remain on the rims (steelies), like those on the Fabia, they have to stay on the same side of the vehicle, but can be shifted, ie rotated, front to back and vice versa. Any thoughts?

So, like many on here I've just swapped my winter tyres over and have the summers back on. It's a biannual ritual tyre/wheel changing and I've evolved a routine, which I've followed for years. However, this morning, while flicking the gravel and other detritus out of my winter tyres and especially the sipes, by going around them with a flat bladed screw driver (I found a small screw and a nail in a couple), my neighbour asked me what I was doing. I explained about cleaning and storage etc., but he didn't look convinced, and I too began to reflect on whether I was being just a bit...erm... too 'anal' here After the gravel and bits are removed and the tyres thoroughly checked, I usually run the hose over the tyres and rims and give them a once-over with a scrubbing brush, before allowing them to dry over night and then bagging them up, having chalked the positions of the corners that they came off of on the car. Those on steelies (the Fabia), have a proper wheel/tyre trolley on which they're stored horizontally, while the others, off the Subaru, are not on rims and so stored vertically, and I give then a quarter turn every month or so, on the shelf they sit on. All in cool, dry, dark storage. But really? Is it worth the hassle? I'm lucky that I'm now quite time-rich (no bunch of young kiddies or other demands for my attention). After all, if I didn't have winter tyres, I'd probably have a set of tyres on my car for the duration of their wear (several years) and not give them a second thought apart from tyre pressure checks and a few visual once-overs. Maybe I should just chill, and bung them in the garage?

Wow! That Yeti looks really neat. The vehicle I've swapped the alloys for steelies is a white Fabia, which belongs to my partner. I think the black wheels against the white paint work with black seals around the windows and black mudguards looks tasty. However, my partners going to have the final say and I think I'll be slapping the hubs on again soon (anything for a quiet life) - tsk! Sadly, I had to swap my trusty Yeti for a Subaru Outback, which has had to have new winter tyres put on the 18" alloys as it's a 3 month waiting list for Subaru OE steelies to be shipped from Japan.

Thanks for your replies guys. There is a sort of 'gangster' aesthetic about the black steelies, but I think you're correct re protection. As I said, I tend to cable tie the hubs onto the rims which means I have to cut and replace them after a few hundred miles when I re-test the torque on the wheel bolts (I know, I know...but I'm a bit OCD on those issues) and an element of laziness was probably also behind my question All the best.

I've just dusted off the winter steelies and swapped them over to replace the summer alloys. Usually, I cable tie some plastic hub caps for their debatable aesthetics. However, a question has popped into my mind. Do hub caps actually protect the steelies and their wheel bolts from the worse of the salty, winter roads or, conversely, do they act as a haven for corrosive crud? Anyone have any thoughts or experience either way that might address the question? Thanks in advance.

Ah, you've really made me chuckle. Thank you. I always find it amusing when the pompous, self-important and self-righteous find their indignation so piqued that they utter such nonsensical dribble as "...(bluster, waffle...) less than zero!". And an exclamation mark to boot - priceless Nighty Night - enjoy your cocoa.

I've never had any issues with filling my 20 litre (metal) can of petrol/diesel at a garage. In fact, my local village garage is not self-service, and last year the guy working there filled the jerry can with unleaded (for my lawn mower). Maybe it's just in Scotland that it's an issue? So, to confirm. Filling a 20 litre (or larger) metal can (purposely built for the job and labelled correctly) with up to 20 litres is perfectly legal and to keep it at home, as well as, for example, filling another 20 litre metal can, also to keep at home, but only filling the latter half full (or any combination of cans, up to 30 litres in total) ! Should add, my understand is that its better to fill a can if possible, rather than have empty, fume filled space.

Well, I'm glad I posted that question as I was completely ignorant of the rulings! Thanks...phew. Well, problem solved, albeit differently from original intention. Odd though that you are able to continue to buy metal, 20 litre Jerry Cans at Halfords https://www.halfords.com/tools/garage-equipment/breakdown-essentials/halfords-20l-jerry-can-with-screw-cap-for-fuel---green-476094.html and other stores. Mind you, having a 1200 litre, metal, kerosene tank at home for domestic fuel does rather put it all into perspective. EDIT Ah...further info. You CAN (no pun intended) store petrol in a metal, jerry can, with a capacity of up to 20 litres https://www.hse.gov.uk/fireandexplosion/petrol-storage-club-association.htm "What containers can I use to store petrol? The legislation allows you to store petrol in the following containers: plastic containers storing up to 10 litres metal containers storing up to 20 litres demountable fuel tank up to 30 litres Suitable portable containers are defined in Schedule 2 (para 6) and Schedule 3 of the regulations. UN approved containers are an example of such containers. More detailed information on portable petrol storage containers (PDF) is available." The PDF link is useful. Should say, my can is 20 litres not 25 as originally stated above. Now I feel better

I've got a green 25 Litre metal Jerry can (you know the sort) and previously it contained diesel. Would it be okay to use for petrol now, or would the diesel residue cause contamination to the petrol and create trouble for the fuel system in the petrol car? I've read about swilling the diesel out with a bit of petrol first. Anyone tried this, or have a better means of cleaning? Thanks.

That would always be my preference too and it's sometimes a strategy I use if towing. In the actual situation I found myself in, the two vehicles had wedged themselves into the gap, trying to join the carriage way I was on (to drive in front of me, as it were), but the weight of traffic, and it's speed, prevented them making any quick exit. So I was faced with tucking into the right hand side of the central gap, which I avoided doing by stayed in the right (outside) lane of the carriage way, indicating a right turn, which subsequently annoyed the van driver behind me who also wanted to turn right. However, if I'd been tempted to tuck in to the right side of the gap, the rear end of the second car which was stuck on the wrong side of the central gap( ( to my thinking 'wrong' anyway), would have obscured me safely seeing the traffic racing up the other carriage way I had to cross. Also, it would have left me facing the wrong side of the road I wanted to drive into. Despite the wait, it all worked out well, as the two 'stuck' cars eventually drove off, and I could occupy the left (correct?) side of the gap. Also, at that point, the traffic in the carriageway I wanted to cross started to slow and eventually stop, due to the jam ahead, and two courteous drivers in the left and right lanes, signalled me to pass across to the other side and into the side road. The van drive behind me was less 'shouty' when I reached the other side of my road, despite my 'inviting' him to discuss the matter further, so to speak :)

Sorry if this is the wrong place to pose this question, but here goes. So, your driving along a dual carriageway and you want to leave the carriageway by taking a road, off to the right. Obviously, that means moving into the right lane of the carriageway you're on, and then driving into the central gap, where you wait for the other carriageway to clear before you cross it and then drive into the road, and onwards. But, where do you position the car while waiting in the central gap? My practice up to now, have been to wait on the left side of the gap (unless there are any 'stop' or give-way' markers to determine the position). I can't find any advice in the Highway Code or any clear advice on the 'tinternet. So, Briskoda gurus - what's your practice?

I eventually bought a couple of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133788861447?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818143230%26meid%3Dbfb44c136e4b4163a0a17335e5196e1f%26pid%3D101224%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D254809868817%26itm%3D133788861447%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DDefaultOrganic&_trksid=p2047675.c101224.m-1 One for my partner's Fabia too. They're light but very sturdy, easy to clean, and the yellow colour means they're not likely to get left behind if you unfortunately end up changing the wheel in some dark spot. They also could pass as a square frizzbe, if you get bored by the roadside waiting for assistance, or a makeshift dinner plate for car camping, plus a 1000 other uses the imagination could conjure up :)