FinnVrs

I but these my Fabia SWAG 4044688298393 And yes right side this small bushes ( front side) was totally rust inside and fail MOT test. So later on i bought this wishbone which include this small front bushes. But like other say it was litel pit tricky done it but i done it. i use this kind system to taking off old one..... And i made tool my self like this when i install new ones.... yes it take some time to do but its not that harder anyway...

Well i just give a "last shot" this well serviced car. I do not spend any money on it. It was included orginal turbo,clutch, never changed head gasked, etc etc...So i do not gona start to wait which part/s failure next time.... So i bought next car to me...;)

Hi my car lost 1st and 2nd gear. It all happened while driving a car. I was parking a car and when I first shifted from 3rd gear to 2nd gear and from there to the first. I thought I hadn’t changed gears but would have remained neutral. The gear selector showed 1 gear and when I released the clutch nothing happened .... Later I went to test the car and noticed that the reverse gear works and the clutch works like before when I reversed the car. I was also able to leave for a small downhill in 3 gears. So now there is 1 and the second gear is lost. When I engage 1 gear and release the clutch, a small noise is heard from the gearbox. Like a wheel that doesn't engage properly then the car doesn't move either;). When I press the bottom of the switch, the sound disappears. But like I said, reverse gear works and doesn’t sound. Likewise, the 3rd gear also didn’t hold sound. If the cluch or flywheel were broken then hardly then the other gears would work at all ?? What to do? Is there any good advice? The car didn't have to make any suspicious noises before the gears disappeared and everything worked normally until ... The car has now been driven 380,000km. clutch and everything else still original ..

I have use Gates and Ina brand and order those autodoc web site. Cost about 100 euros. Full set inc water pump

Good morning one more thing that came to mind. I looked out and noticed that the outdoor temperature is now -8 degree. Yes I have the upper and lower grill blocked. Yes I have had an external engine heater on as well. After all, when I leave my home, I put the car’s interior blower in position 2 at first. When I get to drive on the highway then I put the fan in position 3 or 4. Previously, I did a test on VCDS and monitored how long I had to drive until it reached ( same road same speed and about same outdoor tempereature ) +87 degrees in the engine cooler water. +87 degrees is the general temperature because the thermostat opens. I did this test without a block and blocked , I varied the speed of the heater fan and its effect on engine warm-up. In addition to this, I used the same gear and speed when I tested it. As has already been said here. By blocking the upper and lower grill, the cold stay out of the engine room and the engine heats up faster. In addition to this, it also keeps the engine room cleaner, which is not a bad thing at all Note that the value displayed by the instrument cluster is incorrect with reality. I had the thermostat in my car broken and had trouble getting the instrument panel to show exactly 90 degrees. It was often a little below. The reality was that the right temperature was only about 70 degrees. And when I drove in town, the meter was 70 ... So the truth was already maybe 50 or less.

Hi, the 1.9 tdi motor heats up reasonably well if the thermostat is in 100% condition. I have put a piece of rubber mat in front of the grille up and down. This helps keep the heat going while driving in the city. If you want fast preheating I recommend this, https: //www.calix.se/en/products/search-products-cars? Action = vehicleDetails & vehicleId = -1364532323 Or the brand Defa This is just an engine heater but if you want you can buy a kit and also install an interior heater. These include timers, etc ... It's a little colder here and there have been no problems ...;) My car is equipped with a 1000kw additional heater also already factory installed (some kind of winter package, etc ...)

I have used Ina/skf and gates... All those have done what they have to do... About 5 years or 90.000km...

And check these too!! Every pipes which are near tandem pump...Those pipes can "look good" but ... Yes i have replace 2 pipes all ready. One which is under tandem pump and other which was come out cylinder head same side than tandem pump. It was guite hard to found where these leak was because its leak so litel....but least once a week have to but some water less or moore...

I have 205-45 / 16 spare wheels....but how about 215/45 /16....

Hello i just come to say i done it and im happy. I bought new disc and new brake bads too which is brembo (metal hybrid etc ) This kit works well if i shud say somthing about this kit......Less is moore now i dont have to push that much brake pedal what i have to do before i upgrade this. Yes i change front and back....And yes i havent get any moore brake noise at all. Another reason why i done it....Because this kit was nice price...all stuff was only 159 euros 😄.

I dont know, i have driven my VRS now about 230000 miles and it still doing fine. Orginall turbo/clutch/etc..I havent open engine at all. Yes i have change those things what have to change like brake disc pads and so on..

I bought about 6 month ago 25mm Eipach lowering springs and Sachs 317 645 shock front and back come Sachs 280 565 shock. My tyres is 215/45-16 and im happy whit this setup. Its stif enoght but still riding comfort is ok.

I use INA or GATES both are good brand. Autodock sell those kits around 100 euros. Include full set..

Hi again I don't know what all this can do .. I have changed the charger and when I measured directly from the charger I got the value to 14.5 volts. While measuring the battery terminals I got 13.5-13.9 volts. I don't know where this 0.5-1 volt lost. Temporarily solved the problem by placing another wire alongside the original. Now when I measure the voltage at the battery terminals I get the same 14.5 volts from both measuring points. I flickered the lights at idle and did not charge the battery properly while driving. I'm looking forward to seeing how the power steering works now. Previously, I noticed that in the hot summer it didn't work properly. I was just wondering if the cause was a bad battery voltage. Thanks and sorry I used the google translator directly for this post;)

There is so many kinds a curves..🤣🤣🤣

Daaam shame on me

Okey now this setup is tested quite well on daily driving. And some thing what i notice...Cornering and "street race" Motorway long and tight ramps i can break later and accelerate earlier and its fun all so traffic lights accelerate its easy because car body dosent "raise up" and tyres star slide now it just go . Why i say all of this because....If you wanna do some good your old furby...Start upgrade spring and Shock Absorber and conosle bushes etc...then maeby new bads and brake disc etc and later on chip tuning etc.... My next thing is maeby rear swing bar

These tyres i have all ready try, (185/60-15 studded winter tyres) 205/45-16 orginal vrs size and all so 205/50-16 and now i running 215/45-16 and i have now Eibach 25mm lowering springs installed and it look so nice now

Ouh if you have time to wait and be sure everything goes well then order new thermo cover. But i dot see any other reason why not to use old one.

I use old one when i replace new thermos and O-ring. If you get old one whit out any damage i didnt see any reason to change new thermo cover.

Ouh one moore thing i use 215/45-16 tyres

The car had already been driven for 350,000 km and now the shock absorbers and springs had to be replaced. This unit provided a nice ride comfort while still being stiff enough. Eibach Pro-Kit 25mm / front SACHS GAS STRUT 317 645/ rear sachs 280 565. This unit provided a nice ride comfort while still being stiff enough. Driving comfort and practicality remained well. Speed bumps still get well over and long throws on the road do not interfere with driving. The sharp bumps don't bother me too.The price of the parts delivered home was € 340. Parts of the chassis have already been replaced, such as the Seat Cupra console pushes and so on...

I also had the same problem, I solved by buying new tires, then the problems would disappear. I looked at the tire and noticed that it was made about 10 years ago. Even though there were 6mm left, the rubber was too hard and no grip left. Last summer i bought another tyres and wheels size is 215/45/ 16 and wheels is 7 inch wide and offset is 42. that tyres size is sooo nice because it is higher than the original size 205/45/16. i have stock suspenson and springs.

I took a picture of my own part and it's just code 045121121A because I figured someone would ask for this part number! 100% correct!

Do not worry though as far as I have understood correctly the model 2012 vw transporter uses the same locks.... I also wondered how the 2008 vw Polo lock work my 2004 model fabia The only thing I knew when ordering that part was that it was a central locking car. But after all everything goes ok and it works well