Graham Butcher

That is exactly what I thought and all the examples I could find on YouTube also stated that, but there are indeed some new sensors on the market that are 2 cores only, and so they must rely on the ABS control unit to act as their load.

That is precisely what I thought the sensor consisted of, but no, there is electronics inside them for sure, they are 100% polarised and the positive and negative of the supply must go to their dedicated pins on the actual sensor. I tested the sensor using my Fluke 85 DMM and the resistance specification of that meter is upto 40Mohm and the sensor when connected one way round (and they are only 2 pin sensors) gives a reading of O/L (in excess of 40Mohm) and when the connections are reversed, reads 7.5Mohm. A straight forward coil is not polarity minded.

Thanks for the feedback on this issue, here is the current status of the problem. I have cleared the error codes 3 or 4 times now and the problem goes away. It can be clear of errors for weeks at a time and then suddenly it will strike again. Clear the errors, and it can then either come right back on again, or it might be clear for a few miles / days before coming back again. It is always the same codes each time, and it always mentions the rear N/S wheel sensor and each time I have switched over to live data and driven for while observing the live feedback from all 4 wheel sensors, which always comes back with all 4 sensors reading the same values. I Googled the results about the N/S rear wheel sensor, and it came with many YT videos on the problem, suggesting that I should use a multimeter to check the resistance of the sensor and the general view was that a value of several Meg ohms was not acceptable. One video suggested it should be around 50K ohms, and a manufacturer of ABS systems, own channel, said that the average reading should be around the 1K ohm, I was reading 7.5M ohms on the one fitted. I went and purchased from GSF motor spares, one of their Premium range sensors at a cost of £39.90 after their Easter discount and before I set about replacing it, I measured its resistance, and it came in at 3.5M ohms, and I thought WTF, this looks faulty going by the YT videos were suggesting. After looking into it in a bit more depth and asking on an electronics forum, it seemed that the sensors are Hall Effect sensors and that these could have various resistance values as they contain microchips inside the sensor body itself and that these chips, given the current global shortage of microchips, might have slightly different chips fitted and hence the different resistances, but still function OK. The car has been bottomed on a couple of occasions while been driven slowly over rough ground, so it may have damaged the cabling under the body, the cabling in the wheel arch is fine. Couple this with the fact the live sensor readings has made me come to the decision that the problem might well be under the car and that I cannot access it any more because of my age, without a pit or a lift, so I have booked the car for a full diagnostics check with VW group specialists using the same software as the factory, to investigate and cure the problem. I have reservations about it being on the wheel at all, be it the sensor or the reluctance ring on the hub, for the reason that if the ring had damage then it would be showing up when doing live data readings, and with the vast amount of potholes on our roads, especially in Essex, constantly jolting the car, some which really make the car shudder with the impact, could be making any damaged cabling make intermittent connection problems and setting alarms off again. So I have returned the purchased sensor for a refund, as I might have ended up fitting it, and still having the problem, then replacing the reluctance ring and still having the same issues, all the time building up the cost, and still having to resort to the garage who has the equipment to resolve it for me at extra cost. Had the live data tests shown up an issue coming from the N/S rear wheel, then I would have replaced the sensor with the new one. But without being to pinpoint that the issues was indeed at the wheel, I might just have been building up the costs unnecessarily, which is something I need to avoid being a pensioner. I think you all for your inputs, when the garage has concluded, I'll let you all know the outcome, but won't be until next month now when they get around to looking at it for me.

Well, after reading these reports, I decided before going ahead and fitting the new sensor I purchased that I'd do some live data testing with my OBDII device plugged in. Drove it around the town a couple of times and the data never missed a beat, all 4 wheel sensors gave perfect results, so that to my mind should really confirm that both the sensor and the hub ring must be OK and the message I'm getting from the device is a generic one. I have saved screen prints of the fault codes which I have the following: 18255 Please check DTC memory of brake system ECU 0047 TV-Tuner (R78) 13637396 Manufacturer-specific code (tap to search) 13705985 Databus - Received error message 01316 ABS Control Module 02214 Tyre pressure warning 00290 Left Rear Wheel speed sensor (G46) So armed with this data, is it best to book it in and let the garage run through and cure the problem?

Arh, this looks interesting, just where will I find this connector, under the bonnet or what?

No, because I have difficulty getting up and down (too big and old for that malarkey) and the units are so hard for me to get access to without either a pit or a lift to give me easier and direct access.

Thank you for these measurements, even taking the findings of the person in the video where he measured 50,000 ohms, that makes this new one I just purchased from a motor factors, 70 times that value and taking your value of 1.1k for a new Octy sensor, it makes my new one 3,182 times higher. I really can't see that there would be any reason for one to a fit a Superb should be any different, so I'm feeling pretty pleased that I didn't fit this one as it rather looks like it's duff already 😲

Thanks for the reply, how many miles had yours done at that point and was there much rust around the wheel area? Mine has zero visible rust anywhere that I can detect so far, and all the hub ring videos I have seen appear to be very badly rusted.

I have just got this problem with mine and posted on here about it. My local dealer cannot get round to it for 3 weeks, so I have been searching for info myself on how to cure the problem. I found a video (below) on Octy, so I checked the resistance on mine, and it was 7.5Mohm and his faulty one was 9Mohm and his new one was 50Kohm. So I have been out today and purchased a good one from a decent brand (Hella) but checking the resistance it measures 3.5Mohm, so not fitted it yet in case it's faulty as well 😨. Checked a few YT videos and some people say refer to the workshop manual for values, I cannot find any mention of the resistance in the manual, so I'm still not sure.

I have had a few issues with the dash warning lights coming on with warnings for Power Steering, TCS, ESC, ABS, Bulb failure and Tyre Pressure all at the same time. Plugging in my OBDII device it checks for error codes and one code that is not an actual number is for the left-hand rear wheel sensor which is the ABS sensor. I switched over onto live data setting on the OBDII and selected ABS sensors mode and drove for a short while and observed the readings, all 4 wheels were turning at the same speed? So I cleared out the codes and all seemed OK for a few weeks and then the same thing again happened, cleared the codes, all OK Next I searched the web looking for clues and I came across this video of a person having similar problems with his Octavia so I pulled my N/S rear sensor and checked its resistance value and it 7.5Mohms and in the video he says the resistance of his faulty one was 10Mohms and his new replacement was 50Kohms. So based on that I went and brought a new sensor made by Hella, not a China knock off, and before fitting I measured the resistance, and it reads 3.5Mohms. So I have not yet fitted it as I don't want to fit it in case it is faulty, so does anyone actually know what the correct value should be? I have been through the downloadable purchased workshop manual, and it does not give that information.

No, according to my dealership, petrol cars are not being sold as much as diesels. I expect that is because diesel is more expensive at the pumps, even though you get better MPG with diesel. I have heard similar stories from other people as well. Road tax on a diesel tends to be more expensive because of the higher emissions, that could also be a contributory factor. Whatever, I, for one, won't be selling my diesel anytime soon, that's for sure.

I can join you there, I'm 6ft 4" and so are my 3 sons and with my seat in position they can just about still sit behind me. I have heated seats all round and in the rear there are also removable footrests like there are in a Rolls-Royce as well as the door mounted umbrellas. The BMW 5 Series is supposed to be from a higher level car range, but like so many cars in that arena, its more about paying for the badge. A while ago, while waiting for my car to be manufactured, I was given a hire car for a couple of months, Mercedes C class, it was really awful, once you got over the excitement of sitting behind that 3 - pointed star, you begin to notice the annoying things and the other small shortcomings, especially the lack of interior space. There is no mistake, space is a luxury. My car was at the dealers recently having a now radiator fitted and the driver who picked me up when the car was ready was telling me that he was selling his wife's Hybrid car and buying a 2nd hand diesel Octavia as people are panic selling their diesels and buying EV's following the governments announcements to ban sales of new ICE cars in 2030. This translates into excellent prices to be had on 2nd hand diesel cars at the moment. I plane to run mine for as long as possible, I relish the idea of shelling out thousands for new battery packs, or having to keep stopping to recharge. One thing you can be sure about is that when transition to EV is complete, electric prices will escalate like a skyrocket, plus when we all need the electric to be there, it won’t, there will be all kinds of outages due to storms, equipment failures or industrial action etc.

Oh, that's not so good. My car has only had me as its driver from new, it was my company car and had no issues with it at all until I retired and purchased it from the leasing company. Within a couple of months of buying it, I got sideswiped by a foreign truck on the M25. Had it repaired, then a year later, someone ran into the rear ☹️. Got it repaired then a few months later the alternator belt snapped on me. Overall though, the car is excellent, its never been thrashed in any gear, never been driven hard so it made perfect sense to buy it, I know the cars entire history. So far it has flown through every MOT without any problems.

I'm not so sure that it is the engine struggling, but more a case of the low RPM exposing more of the pure grunt of the diesel engine (assuming yours is diesel as well?) I always try and ensure that my RPM's are around the 1500 to 2000RPM max, so I'm not expecting any issues with the dual mass flywheel as I believe that the dual mass comes into effect at higher RPM's in much the same as the weights on the distributor of an old pre injection petrol engine come into effect at higher engine speed to advance the ignition timing. What is your mileage, as I've heard it said that the flywheel is not normally an issue until well over the 100,000 miles. My mileage is 70,050 and is an 8-year-old car now and still drives as if it is a new car.

I think you will find that the precise time when the DSG shifts will vary according to eng and also the gearbox oil temps, how heavily the engine is loaded and the throttle position etc. I notice that when the temps are low, the changes occur later as the oil imposes a load on the transmission. When the oils are at normal temp, and I'm on flat piece of road and only light throttle applied, that mine will often slip into 4th at around 1200 RPM (24/25mph) and into 5th at around the 30MPH mark and pulls happily. Apply any more throttle or a slight incline and it drops a gear.

I have been having to top up the coolant level every 2 weeks or so for the last 4 to 5 weeks, about a quart has been added each time and after a couple of weeks delay, my dealer has been able to have a look at it and has said that the radiator is leaking and needs a new one at a cost of around £450 which I assume is the fitted cost. It seems a bit expensive to me, but is it really? I don't actually know what is involved in replacing the rad on this car. Many years ago when cars were so much simpler to work on, I used to do all my own maintenance and whipping a rad out and getting it re-cored the same day was not an issue. There used to be loads of companies doing rad repairs but I have not seen one in years now.

We both have the same problem, I'm 72 and certainly nowhere near either size or the flexibility I was a few years ago, so I reckon it will be my son who gets the job of doing these lamps then. A couple of years ago we replaced the heater blower motor which is located on the passenger side and that was a real pig to do, having to do most of it by feel, which is less than ideal. Thanks for the reply and photos, they will be a great help.

Does anyone know how to access these lights and what bulbs are required? These have recently blown and I'd like to replace them if easy to without having to go to the dealers/ Checked the owners manual and it makes zero mention about these lights at all?

Recently I have noticed that the woofer had stopped working on the front passenger door. The car has the uprated Canton sound system installed from new. Can anyone tell me just how you get the door card removed in order to access the speaker, as I'm guessing that is where the problem lies. A couple of years back I was sideswiped by a Lorry on the M25 and that door received some damage, so I'm kind of hoping that when they repaired the door, that maybe the speaker connections were not properly made and that it has become disconnected? What tools do I need to access the fixings on the door card, I don't want to risk damaging it at all by not knowing what tools are needed or where to apply them in order to ensure safe removal and refitting of the door card.

Well my last post on this topic said that I'd give my views on the Carista in a few days..... well I think almost 2 years later its about time I did that . What can I say, it appears to do its job very well, it has found a few codes and corrected them but all of them were to be fair, minor codes to do with customization of the door locks, window and DRL lights etc so from that aspect, I'd be happy to purchase one for that aspect only. I think it is a worthwhile tool to have in the glovebox and the only slight downside is the annual subscription, but frankly it is not cancelling it as it is only a few £ a year, and you never know how many times you need to use in a year.

OK, an update on the trim problem, after a very long time of trying to find one in car salvage yards, I have finally located one and will driving around 200 miles in a round trip to collect next week. It only cost £24 but sadly not in colour, so I have to source the matching paint still, but I'm looking forward to fitting this as I'm getting fed up with the ugly look of old trip after it was ripped out by one of those American style car washes. I don't appear to have posted a photo of the poor trim piece, so I'll post below now. If it all goes well, I'll lift out the O/S one and fit it closer to the windscreen as that one is now slowly being lifted out of the channel with the wind hitting it. Thanks for the useful tips and comments already posted here.

Don't know if you have resolved the issue now or not, but my unit also lost all of its POI files and all related menus were greyed out as well. My service dept were unable to offer any help and then this year in desperation I purchased a new map update disc and installed it, when completed, it had also installed a new set of POI's and so everything is now working OK.

Update on the missing POI data, this week I discovered a company selling map update CD's, I purchased one, installed it and now not only do I have the latest maps but also all the POI have restored so I once again search for the nearest garage, bank etc when in a strange location.

Does anyone know just how the trim strips on the roof are held in place, these are the ones that are located each side of the car just above the doors, in the gutter? Are these just a simple press fit or are the glued into place? I'm looking to replace one that a car wash recently yanked out and the operators have only offered my 50% of the dealers price to supply and fit a new replacement. they are claiming that they cannot be certain that the trim wasn't already hanging off prior to going through wash. The wash is an attended one where at 2 or sometimes 3 people walk round the car with soapy brooms and scrub the panels with them and also apply high pressure jet washer to bad spots prior to entering the drive through section. I would have thought that if the trip was sticking up before going into the washer, that someone would have spotted it and pointed it out to me. Had it been one of the older style machines where you drove into the wash and then it started with no attendants what's so ever, I'd say fair enough, down to me but surely not when they do the prewash by hand, they should accept liability for the damage in full?

The other day I needed to look for a petrol station that close to me when I was in a strange location so I went to search via the Columbus sat nav but discovered that the menu option for POI is greyed out so I was unable to use that menu? Has anyone else come across that and if so what did you do to cure it?