Jump to content

Coming soon, the greatest Favorit project ever! (Probably)


favguy

Recommended Posts

The next shot shows the front battery rack in place, with two of the 110Ah Floodies present (I'm running a total of six of these initially, just to get road legal and test out the car and systems, then onto 144v nominal of proper lithium! )

SDC11893.jpg

Still got to do the battery hold down at this point.

The next picture shows the control box with the main cabling done and the throttle and pot box set up. The 12v control wiring, pre-charge and instrument wiring is still to do:

SDC11892.jpg

The next shots are of overall progress to date. The space left on the shelf is for future placement of the DC/DC converter. This will be run in conjunction with the small 40Ah accessory battery you can see in the rear right of the shots.

The black grommet in the control box lid is to allow access to connect the emergency shut off cable to the main breaker once the box lid is on.

SDC11890.jpg

SDC11887.jpg

SDC11888.jpg

That'll do for now, I'll be back soon, the plan is to have the car ready for, and MOT'd by the end of next week

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, just wow.

Really loving your work and it's very pleasing to see this progressing so well.

What do you estimate the range and speed to be with the current temporary batteries?

Phil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I've been working steadily on the car, the day job has, as ever, has kept getting in the way, but I'm very nearly ready for the MOT now.

I've spent a a good full four days finishing up all the control wiring, building safety interlocks on the gear selector to lock out the throttle function when out of gear, installing the impact switch cut off circuit and manual emergency circuit breaker control, finishing the voltmeter/ammeter/temperature guages wiring etc.. Doesn't actually look like much progress actually, but seems to have taken ages.

I've tested it all out with just 12v on the main pack at this point. All seems good.

Just have to run the last battery box cabling now and then overhaul the brakes, and I'm off for the MOT

Finished control box:

SDC11905.jpg

Close up of the circuit breaker access for turning it off or resetting:

SDC11908.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wish I could be there to see the look on the MOT tester's face when you take it in!

Never seen this model/version............."I built it myself".............This ain't self build it's to OEM/pro............ :giggle:

Mind you Bossfox I'd like to see the MOT testers face when your project goes in for it's first MOT............ :rofl: .....hang on there's a driveshaft down the back here........my book says these are front wheel drive (FWD).....must be wrong.........wait a min'...theres still the driveshafts to the front??????............I get it.........when it says FWD in the book it must mean Four wheel drive!!!!!!......... :rofl: :rofl:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, so I've got the control wiring finished and tested out at last .

One thing that's been bothering me for a while is that an MOT tester, or any other third party for that matter can "blip" the throttle as you might in an ICE when the car is in neutral and we all know how that can end!

So I built a throttle override switch to run in parallel with the throttle and keep resistance at zero when not in gear.

SDC11934.jpg

The two microswitches are normally closed and wired in series so keeping the throttle locked out until either switch is activated by engaging a gear. One switch covers 1,3,5, the other 2,4,R.

You can see it fitted below along with an additional control disk monted on the gear linkage.

SDC11939.jpg

SDC11944.jpg

OK, that's it for now, just still got to run the battery cables to the rear boxes and overhaul the brakes, MOT is booked for next week, at last..

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just realised, you may all not know why this matters. With a DC series wound motor, if anything more than a very low voltage, 12v-24v is applied to the motor at no load (ie. flooring the throttle pedal in neutral) the motor will almost instantaniously accelerate to a dangerously high RPM and could destroy itself and/or possibly the gearbox!

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just realised, you may all not know why this matters. With a DC series wound motor, if anything more than a very low voltage, 12v-24v is applied to the motor at no load (ie. flooring the throttle pedal in neutral) the motor will almost instantaniously accelerate to a dangerously high RPM and could destroy itself and/or possibly the gearbox!

That would not be good. Clever yet simple solution you came up with there.

I what gear will you set off in? I assume it would be possible to set off in any gear but in kindness to the gearbox and clucth I'm guessing you would use 2nd?

Finger crossed for the MOT. Is there any additional checks that need to be done with an electric car?

Phil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all,

Will usually set off in 2nd unless on a very steep hill, could probably even use 3rd, but the acceleration will be a little slower.

There is no clutch, the motor is linked to the transmission via a damped coupler (see earlier posts on this). A clutch isn't needed as there is no large rotating powered mass to remove as with the original petrol engine, just the additional few KG's of the motor armature, which isn't powered when the throttle is released, so you can change gear at will clutchless :)

I'll have to be there during the MOT, as the tester won't have a clue how to start it!

Starting sequence:

Ign. on position gives accessories only along with brake pre-charge as needed (if not still under vacuum). To prepare for drive, the key is momentarily turned to the start position and the drive system relay latches. The drive system active (Amber) warning light comes on along with a Red pre-charge warning light. The controller is soft started by charging the capacitors through a resistor. After 8 seconds this is complete and the main system contactor now closes giving full pack voltage to the controller and the pre-charge warning light goes out. The car is now ready to go. (You can't go before this as the throttle is locked out). Simples!!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Forgot to add, there are no additional MOT checks for an electric car other than the usual cables and batteries must be secure etc. In fact the test should be a bit faster, with no exhaust, emmissions, or fuel lines to check.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all,

Will usually set off in 2nd unless on a very steep hill, could probably even use 3rd, but the acceleration will be a little slower.

There is no clutch, the motor is linked to the transmission via a damped coupler (see earlier posts on this). A clutch isn't needed as there is no large rotating powered mass to remove as with the original petrol engine, just the additional few KG's of the motor armature, which isn't powered when the throttle is released, so you can change gear at will clutchless :)

I'll have to be there during the MOT, as the tester won't have a clue how to start it!

Starting sequence:

Ign. on position gives accessories only along with brake pre-charge as needed (if not still under vacuum). To prepare for drive, the key is momentarily turned to the start position and the drive system relay latches. The drive system active (Amber) warning light comes on along with a Red pre-charge warning light. The controller is soft started by charging the capacitors through a resistor. After 8 seconds this is complete and the main system contactor now closes giving full pack voltage to the controller and the pre-charge warning light goes out. The car is now ready to go. (You can't go before this as the throttle is locked out). Simples!!

you forgot to add the last line of command.............

"Engage warp factor 9"..........

:giggle:

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lol that just gave me a great idea for an additional project. A security system that delivers the full voltage of the battery system to the base of the seat :giggle: The chair, the chair! lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Community Partner

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.