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Just Changed Rear Pads - Should i be worried?


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Its taken me a few hours to go through the excellent guide on here to change the pads on the rear. After struggling and getting confused as to what i should turn and in which direction with the rewind tool, it ended up being quite easy.

But does anyone know what those strange metal brackets are for that you need to wedge into the small gap between the disc and mounting brackets?

When i've assembled it all together the wheel seems to have a bit of resistance, which i assumed was just that the pads needing to bed in. Is this right?

Just thought i'd go for a quick 10 min 'safety check' drive to make sure the brakes were working, and they felt better but when i came back the discs were hot to the touch and the wheels weren't spinning freely still. Should i panic? Take it to the dealer etc?

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Wasnt really any rust just dirt but i tried cleaning what i could off, but you can only really do the horizontal sections as i couldnt get in down by the disc. The pads sat quite well in the shims so didnt think there was anything wrong.

Would it be worth trying to refit the shims?

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Those shims were quite difficult to fit into the gap by the discs but they werent interfereing with the discs. But it was when the pads and the piston block were mounted that it was noticeable.

Thanks for the help Lummux. I'll try again tommorow!

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The calipers went on with slight persuasion, so maybe i didnt wind the calipers back enough but thought it would ok. So as you wind it back determins its rest position, so it needs to fully clear the pads?

Is there an easy way of removing the calipers as your fighting the piston when sliding it off? What should i do with the handbrake cable?

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I rewound the pistons as far as i could which helped. I think what it is, is that the rusty rim on the disk is just catching the pads.

Err how important is the sticky backing on the pads? I take it using copper grease isnt a good idea? :o

Looks like i'll be changing the pads again then! And probably the discs as well! I'll do it properly eventually!

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I rewound the pistons as far as i could which helped. I think what it is, is that the rusty rim on the disk is just catching the pads.

Err how important is the sticky backing on the pads? I take it using copper grease isnt a good idea? :o

Looks like i'll be changing the pads again then! And probably the discs as well! I'll do it properly eventually!

The sticking backing is meant to get its backing paper removed and it should reduce squealing - you covering it in copper grease will just mean it can't "anti squeal" as well as it could long term. If the discs are not badly corroded on the swept areas, warped, or are at their minimum thickness, then they should still be servicable. I think that I know what you mean about not winding the pistons back far enough - there is no obvious "stop" point. One point, just in case someone has adjusted the handbrake cables, with the handbrake "off" take a look under the back of the car - are the handbrake levers resting on their "back stops"?

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