Morning guys, does anyone have any opinions on the optimum camber setting for the front wheels on the octy Vrs? As standard they sit at about 0.5 degrees (top of the tyre pointing inwards slightly) and have noticed tyre wall wear when using on track. At the Nurburgring most well set-up cars were running about 3 degrees of camber all round.

I was told the octy was none ajustable and have found this to be wrong when replacing the front suspension arms. Front camber is VERY adjustable as the 3 bolts securing the ball joint to the arms are on elongated slots giving a range of approx 3 degree possitive and negative camber.

The ballance of the car on track is fantastic which makes me think it's pointless changing the front camber when the rear is fixed. Is there a way or aftermaket part that will give adjustability on the rear?

Cheers.

I think you'd have to change the rear beam to actually change the rear camber and toe settings.

If you're getting wall wear on track, what about putting the tyre pressures up a little (it wants experimenting with, and I'd not go more than about 2PSI at a time)?

Cheers, I thought as much. It's probably best if I keep the front camber the same as I don't want to loose the ballance. The tyre pressures were adjusted a bit but the tyre wall wear was done on the second carousel where I was going from a flat level track onto a cambered surface at quite some speed. There were some top set-up advice guys there who sugested 3 degrees was the way to getting extra grip but there's no point just making the front grip.

Cheers

You mean "Klien Karoussel"? I think the trick is the same as with Karoussel; take a tight line in through the end of the banking, rather than trying to drop over the lip. Oh and remember; "Never go into Karoussel on the brakes: I have been round there on the roof, and know what I am talking about"!

You mean "Klien Karoussel"? I think the trick is the same as with Karoussel; take a tight line in through the end of the banking, rather than trying to drop over the lip. Oh and remember; "Never go into Karoussel on the brakes: I have been round there on the roof, and know what I am talking about"!

What were you doing on the roof Ken? Your supposed to be driving from inside the car! You obviously saw that Mr. Bean episode with the armchair and the mini! Haha couldn't resist!

My problem was exiting the Karoussel in the wet, front end was scrabbling for grip over the surface change when booting it hard. Felt like driving with an aggressive LSD up front, trying to steer me into the walls!

What were you doing on the roof Ken? Your supposed to be driving from inside the car!

Nore the quotation marks! They were there for a reason.

I have the standard settings in PDF if they are any help too you PM if you need them.

HTH

If you were to fit TT arms for arguements sake to give the adjustability that you dont get on the std arms this can also alter the castor angle.

If you were to fit TT arms for arguements sake to give the adjustability that you dont get on the std arms this can also alter the castor angle.

But the standard arms do have adjustable camber via the elongated holes between the arm and the balljoint. My car is sat on the drive now with massive amounts of camber on the nearside front.

I thought about the TT arms but decided on new arms with TT bushes to get rid of the Powerflex rubbish I should never have had fitted in the first place.

What effect does castor angle have?

I have the standard settings in PDF if they are any help too you PM if you need them.

HTH

PM sent - Thanks

Nore the quotation marks! They were there for a reason.

Where's the quote from then? Whoever they are, theyre a hero!

But the standard arms do have adjustable camber via the elongated holes between the arm and the balljoint. My car is sat on the drive now with massive amounts of camber on the nearside front.

I thought about the TT arms but decided on new arms with TT bushes to get rid of the Powerflex rubbish I should never have had fitted in the first place.

What effect does castor angle have?

There isnt much adjustment on the bottom ball joint. The arms are barely slotted. If you have camber on one side its due to the subframe being shifted accross not the arms, trust me i've set enough up. The correct way to adjust camber is to either move the top mounting or the top of the hub, moving the pivot point will alter the castor angle and this will effect the self centring of the steering.

Ross is right the bottom ball joint does offer very little adjustment, i tried to adjust mine but there was practically no difference.

Where's the quote from then? Whoever they are, theyre a hero!

Sabine Schmit(z); I don't know if it was a 'ring taxi, a race car or something else, but she made and admitted to the mistake. If the world's best female ringmeister (and one of the top 3 or 4 irrespective of sex) can do that, the rest of us should all take note!!

What effect does castor angle have?

Mostly, it changes the amount of self-centring action you get.