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New motor ;)

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Hi all, we picked up our Octarvia VRS last weekend, Had a few problems with the central locking (now sorted) and I had my first proper spin last night. Now theres a few things I'd like your veiws on.

1. Bit of a brake wobble, not bad but will need sorting in the future. Where's the best place to buy these, G&S or eblag???

2. Seat noise or knocking, this must be a Vag thing as my mates MK4 GTI does the same thing, come to think of it my old MK2 GTI did the same thing?

3. Sterio sound CR@p, found one of the rear speakers not working, but still, an after market speaker set may be in order, any sugestions?

4. I got a Vagcom cable, and down loaded the free Ross tech program, which after much messing I got working. I had the engine warning light on, and found a fault with the inlet air flow? which I have been told is common? I didnt write the fault number befor I cleared it, but is there any way of sorting this problem? My vag com is a bit hit and miss any reson for this?

5. The car runs and performs realy well, but on over run I can hear a noise, sound more like a fluttering sound. The moment the throttle is touched again it gose away instantly. Was'nt sureif it could be the re-circulation valve leting by?

Thanks for any info on the above:thumbup:

A pic of out new family run about:-

DSCF0171v2-1.jpg

Were`s your Vrs badge from the grill?

Sorry cant help much with the above problems

And the wheels look like 16s not 17s. Is it a car of Irish origin??

point 1- i got mine from gsf for my TDi

point 2- exhaust mount maybe?

point 3- speakers are not too bad, but the head unit is, iirc. I have a pioneer mp3 head unit and alpine speakers in mine though.

point 4- my cable sometimes plays up too :-(

  • Author
Were`s your Vrs badge from the grill?

Sorry cant help much with the above problems

In the glove box:D

  • Author
And the wheels look like 16s not 17s. Is it a car of Irish origin??

Early car, reg May 2001.

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6. And another thing I forgot to mension. The rear susspension seams a bit bouncy/soft shocks seam fine. Is this why the RARB's are fitted? Firmer shock maybe?

  • Author

How's the VRS badge held on to the grill?

Araldite seems to work.

1) I get mine from an ebay supplier called Silverwagen. They're a vw dealer in Barnsley.

2) There are plastic wheels on the seats which can wear which results in a small clunking noise on acceleration and braking... They are replaceable but you may have to get them from VW rather than Skoda. My Skoda parts department looked at me like I'd just pi55ed on their kids when I asked.

3) Stereo sounds crap because it IS crap, not much you can do to be honest. Non standard speakers improved mine but the real difference was made by a new head unit.

4) Is it a genuine Rosstech cable? I had a few problems with ebay versions but my genuine cable has been faultless.

:)

  • Author

4) Is it a genuine Rosstech cable? I had a few problems with ebay versions but my genuine cable has been faultless.

:)

:o no it's one of thoes ebay jobs, was recomended from here though.

I dont supose anypne would have the part number for the seat wheels?

(2) Exhaust centre mount? The system's a beefy piece of kit, but the mounts aren't!

(3) Turn it down to a dull roar!! ;) Mine is ok for a car system as long as I leave the volume below 14.

(5) Maybe. The TDi tends to swoosh more under power as the turbo spins up though.

  • 11 months later...
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Ok, I've been servicing the VRS, located the noise to be the wastegate on the turbo, not closing properly.

I adjusted it so it had a litle preload on the diapham spring, NOISE NOW GONE :)

Now i thought it went ok before, but now she flys. My worrie is that I may have over done it, and it could be over boosting. My only expeirence is with older turbo car where the wastegate adjustment was critical, is this the case with the VRS? or does it control the boost (or overboost) by the ECU?

Is there a way of setting the wastegate rod correctly? I used to do it with a DTI and pressure gauge, but that was a long time ago.

Ok, I've been servicing the VRS, located the noise to be the wastegate on the turbo, not closing properly.

I adjusted it so it had a litle preload on the diapham spring, NOISE NOW GONE :)

Now i thought it went ok before, but now she flys. My worrie is that I may have over done it, and it could be over boosting. My only expeirence is with older turbo car where the wastegate adjustment was critical, is this the case with the VRS? or does it control the boost (or overboost) by the ECU?

Is there a way of setting the wastegate rod correctly? I used to do it with a DTI and pressure gauge, but that was a long time ago.

I'm not exactly sure, but I don't think your supposed too touch them at all on these cars.

It should go into limp mode if it feels itself overboosting.

As Fatty said it's not a good idea to mess with the actuator rod on the 1.8T.

A remap would open the wastegate later by telling the ECU to open it later, but a remap also gets the ECU to inject fuel to match. If you've adjusted the actuator then you will be getting more boost but not necessarily the right amount of fuel.

Alright Nick,

I recognise that car!!!

That enduro mag has given me some good ideas by the way!!

So you solved it, how did you guess it was that in the end?

Have not been oer recently, are you still having problems getting onto vag.com, i can bring over mine as will be over your way soon?

luca

  • Author
Alright Nick,

I recognise that car!!!

That enduro mag has given me some good ideas by the way!!

So you solved it, how did you guess it was that in the end?

Have not been oer recently, are you still having problems getting onto vag.com, i can bring over mine as will be over your way soon?

luca

If you dont mind, that would be good. I'm driving it down to the Cornwall on saturday, so I'd like to know it's right.:thumbup:

  • Author
It should go into limp mode if it feels itself overboosting.

As Fatty said it's not a good idea to mess with the actuator rod on the 1.8T.

A remap would open the wastegate later by telling the ECU to open it later, but a remap also gets the ECU to inject fuel to match. If you've adjusted the actuator then you will be getting more boost but not necessarily the right amount of fuel.

I'm guessing "limp mode" will cut the the turbo compleatly? It's defenatly not doing that. I agree that normaly you would not touch it, but it seamed that someone had already adjusted it incorretly, so I had to do something.

It's made to be adjusted, so someone, somewhere must know how to do it correctly??

Does Vag.com give you a maximum recorded boost reading?

Does Vag.com give you a maximum recorded boost reading?

It can log the pressure on the fly but doesn't hold a record of previous attempts.

HTH

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