here you go

i'll email you the autocad dxf file ed

edit: email sent, dont forget you will need longer bolts, don't use b&q cheapo ones either, get some high tensile ones

Edited 25 September, 200817 yr by TeflonTom

nice one mate. bolts is never a problem, i have thousands of nuts an bolts in all sizes floating about at work.

i don't PAY for stuff ,honestly!

TeflonTom you have a PM... thanks

Its not a new idea, plus if you make them wider at the bottom you can dial in some negative camber.

How much would you need taper the spacers, mainly how much negative camber will the suspension take without excessive damage to the tyres and will too much increase understeer without the same amount of front camber increase, So is 1mm differerence from top to bottom too much basically?

dont over do it otherwise the rear wheels will want to carry on in a straight line when you go round corners (ie: the back end will kick out)

i would start at 0.5mm

I'll come up with some figures assuming you start with 0 camber, if Tom can tell me the OD of the space plate, rather than the distance between the top and bottom mounting holes.

been to the scrap yard and got some mk3 golf gti rear stub axles and brake caliper carriers, they look a bit rough but they will clean up ok

tom, whats the OD of them spacers? and the hole size, i'm gunna make them by hand cuz the laser bloke is on holl.

Does rear discs on the back make much of difference to drums?

I have read of handbrake slippings on discs due to the contracting when the brakes cool.

But then I'm a n00b and have to ask silly questions.

yes, that is someting that has been quite common over the years on vw's.. you park on a hill after a 'sporty' run, then return an hour later to find your car stuck in a tree at the bottom of the hill

re: difference, not a lot really, the rear brakes barely do anything tbh, i thought it would make a nice project that's all

You have quite a few projests and the finished article should be a great result.

yes, that is someting that has been quite common over the years on vw's.. you park on a hill after a 'sporty' run, then return an hour later to find your car stuck in a tree at the bottom of the hill

re: difference, not a lot really, the rear brakes barely do anything tbh, i thought it would make a nice project that's all

And maybe some nice calipers painted up red showing though the alloys?

i'm not sure, my front calipers are black, so it might be better to leave them unpainted

Does rear discs on the back make much of difference to drums?

I have read of handbrake slippings on discs due to the contracting when the brakes cool.

But then I'm a n00b and have to ask silly questions.

I've heard this too, and seen a number of investigated cases, where it was discovered that the problem was the driver not putting the hb on properly in the first place!

I've heard this too, and seen a number of investigated cases, where it was discovered that the problem was the driver not putting the hb on properly in the first place!

Perhaps you need to risk stretching the cable and pull it tight?

Solution: install a hydraulic handbrake

rear discs, as tom says ent a lot more powerfull than drums, when the drums are ajusted properly and not full of $h1t. the drums on the back of most fellys are not working at all. so switching to discs will make a huge differance, as discs work propper(ish) all the time.

hear goes the "one year on" epic BUMP!!!!!!!!

i have my second rear beam nearly all built up using corrado rear stubs/calipers but i need to get some 4 stud discs as the vr6 ones are 5 stud.

the anti roll bar is off the front of an R32 mk4 golf.

all i need to figure now is the hand brake cable. i dont think its gunna be long enough??????????????

also need to get some flexxy lines and splice them in.

Good job!

Sounds good and wish I had the time and skills to do some more stuff like this.

I am thinking of a rear disc conversion as the cylinder on the back O/S has started to leak so my thinking is I might as well do it while replacing parts any way.

Will have a look round and see what I can find.

Phil

got the new 4 stud discs today. pressed the new bearings in and fitted them to the rear beam.

i also flipped the calipers over so the right is on the left and left on the right.

i have done this because of the hand brake cable roughting is fouled with them the right way round. just need to pick up some flex hoses now and its all good(ish)

it will be quite difficult to bleed them when the calipers are upside-down

not sure, now the bleed nipple is slightly higher than the brake line.

they look the same at a clance, infact could i swap the bleed nipple and the brake line round so then it would all be the right way round exept the hand brake link.

Duno in the specific case, but there are such things as "either way up calipers", where you could do this swap as long as you reversed the positions of the feed and bleed.

not sure, now the bleed nipple is slightly higher than the brake line.

they look the same at a clance, infact could i swap the bleed nipple and the brake line round so then it would all be the right way round exept the hand brake link.

yes you could swap them round, i cant see any problem with that but be sure to check they have the same thread pitch. most brake fittings at M10x1