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electrical problem


phillip

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Yesterday my Octy vRS developed a strange fault with the electrics. I flashed my main beam to let someone out of a junction and my wipers operated. Since then the wipers don't work when using the normal wiper switch, but do work when I operate the main beam and sometimes when I indicate :confused::confused:. They sometimes also move very slightly of their own accord.

I have recently been having problems with the main headlamp/wiper/brake light relay behind the dash board, so have just been and forked out £24 for a replacement thinking that would cure the problem, but it hasn't :eek::eek:.

I have just disconnected the battery hoping that the electrics will re-set themselves, as is sometimes the case, but am also thinking that it might be the contacts on the steering column storks that operate the lights and wipers, however I am having trouble getting the steering wheel off !!!

Has anyone had this problem, or can suggest a fix ???

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I have now reconnected the battery, but the problem is still there, and I have also noticed that my headlights don't work, or the main beam, although the main beam light on the dashboard lights up for a few second then goes out. Basically the electrics have gone haywire :eek::eek::eek:...HELP !!

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Possibilities are (most likely first):

1. The multifunction switch.

2. The wiring to the switch.

3. A short on the relay plate.

When you flash the main beams do they flash as well as the wipers working.

I would put money on the switch. If it were a straight forward short between the two circuits, I would expect the wipers and main beam to come on together whether you used the wipers or the main beam.

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The cause of electrical problems are very dificult to pin down. The first place to start would be with the stalk switches. You can remove the steering column shrouds and disconnect the indicator one and see if the wipers operate normally, if they do, then the indicator stalk is likely to be at fault. The shrouds can be removed without removing the steering wheel. Alternatively you could try spraying some contact cleaner into the base of the switches.

Removing the steering wheel means removing the air bag, you should be very careful and have the battery disconnected, also the slip ring for the electrical contacts is quite fragile and should not be turned once removed. If the car has ESP it may well need re-calibrating when re-fitted.

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Had a go at removing the shrouds this aft. but could only see one screw underneath, and two more screw holes appear to be masked by the steering wheel !! How do the shrouds come off without removing the wheel ??

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It is possible to rotate the steering wheel to reveal those screws and remove them using a long thin cross head screw driver. There are two very long screws that are on the underside, they hold the two halves of the shroud together. There is also an additional fixing close to the adjusting lever for which you will need an Allen key.

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Then I agree with Railroad.

I don't think it is anything to do with the stalks, column wiring or slip ring. The reason I can say this is that the switch controls the relay and the relay controls the power circuit. If the problem was between the switch and the relay control coil, then you would get nothing or full beams (no dimming).

I assume that the battery is good, so a bad earth would be the most likely cause. Find the earth point that is common to the wipers and the headlights.

Don't take the column to bits yet. You have take the wheel off - it's a real PITA and should be a last resort.

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Just checked the earth points too (well the one at the side of the battery box), and that appears to be okay. Am I correct in thinking that there is another earth point on the inner wing under the battery box too ??

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The best way to check earths is with a voltmeter. Remember, a voltmeter measures difference between two points. It does not measure or indicate presence of current. A circuit can be accurately checked under load with a voltmeter.

Place your probes/clips on battery negative and an earth point. Switch the load on and any reading on the voltmeter will tell you what the voltage difference is. It must always be less than 0.5V (500mv). If it is more then you have a bad connection between these points, or a high resistance cable. This is called voltage-drop. The same goes for checking on the positive side of a circuit.

Many people incorrectly use a voltmeter like a test lamp, and then wonder why they can't understand what it's telling them.......

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Never had any official training on electrics, or if I did it was too many years ago :rofl::rofl:, but the phrase "YOU LEARN SOMETHING NEW EVERY DAY" definitely applies here.

Fortunately I wasn't working last night or tonight, and am off tomorrow too, so will get my voltmeter out tomorrow and give it a try :thumbup::thumbup:.

And yes, I am probably one of those people that you mentioned :D:D!!.

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How weird is this....went to get it out of the garage this morning and everything is working fine :orb_duh:

Keeping my fingers crossed that it stays that way too.....but how can it suddenly cure itself overnight ????????

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Hi Philip, I got the PM ok, but don't really have time to check the fora until lunchtime. Also, I'm never on-line at weekends, ok. Thanks for the compliment, but I'm no guru, I just have good teachers: You know who you are I hope guys!

Having read through the story so far, I'd agree with the loose connection theory, but can't see an obvious place to look.

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