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Felicia Running problems, HELP!!

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Hi All,

I have problems with my car please help, it's a 1999 skoda felicia magic 1.3 petrol. 58'00 miles. It starts fine most of the time but it will run for a few minutes ( sometimes 1 min sometines 10 mins ) and then stops, sometimes it will start again sometimes it wont, but it allways starts in the end. I have diagnosed the problem to fuel, when it stops there is no fuel being delivered to the engine and no power to the pump, i have renewed the fuel pump, fues board, all relays and the thermostat housing & i have had the ecu codes read with no luck. When it stops it's just like somebody has randomly removed the fues to the fuel pump. I have a complete 1999 1.6 for spares.

I did like this car, i have had it as my little run around for about 4 years with no problems, but if i dont fix it soon i'm going to fry sausages on the roof after i have set it on fire. I'M NOT JOKING.

PLEASE HELP I NEED TO SLEEP AGAIN!!

seems to me that you have a partial open and idle fuel problem, most of the time is a dirty carburator/fuel injector or a vacuum leak,

if you can run the engine above 1500rpms without the engine stoping then the choke system is what keeping your egine alive for that minute or so....

is not a big deal you can fix it yourself... dont burn it

  • Author

Thanks for reply, It will run at 1500rpms when it's running so what do you suggest i do now? I have tried to clean the throttle body aswell and i'm quiet sure it's clean.

Check all the vacumn and PCB hoses very carefully. Don't just look at them, squeeze them because it's not unknown for them to collapse internally, so they collapse when the engine's running but look ok when it's not.

Thanks for reply, It will run at 1500rpms when it's running so what do you suggest i do now? I have tried to clean the throttle body aswell and i'm quiet sure it's clean.

if you cleaned the throtel body it means is not a carburator model right...

whell being a fuel injected model then the fuel injectors need cleaning

the intake system is clogged or,

you havea vacuum leak.

i bet it was runing well before, but my curious mind wonder, How many miles per gallon wher you getting?, what do you remember doing before car began having this problem?

At any rate, if its the injectors, on a half or less thank of gas treat fuel with fuel injector cleaner and set the car idle to the lowest rpm you need for it not to tick over(i bet i'll be something arround 1000 to 1200rpm, and give it a good run 80km/h or more constant for a good wile, that will clean them up

if its the intake clogged replace air filter an check the system for obstructions

if its a vacuum leak, check all vacuum hoses one must have a leak or fell off..

can you please tell me how is you idle, rough, quiet, serene, or choppy, and when was the last time you serviced you engine

Cleaning the injectors is pretty pointless. By the time cleaning them does any good, they're goosed anyway (Source Dave Walker).

Cleaning the injectors is pretty pointless. By the time cleaning them does any good, they're goosed anyway (Source Dave Walker).

Dude, i di not know that, i'm not a mechanic, just someone who fiddles arround a bit too much and has a nack at fixing anything (people call me McGuiver here, ejejej) but you have to explain, wha does "Goosed" mean, and if cleaning the fuel injectors in that matter doent help, what is the alternative (ofcurse, without replacing them)

and my apologies for any error on judment

i love sausages send a few down to the south west lol

I now have a spare Felicia thanks to my head gasket popping on the 1.6.

Looking at getting a Favorit now with the 1.3. Going from a VW engined Skoda to a proper full Skoda :D

I now have a spare Felicia thanks to my head gasket popping on the 1.6.

Looking at getting a Favorit now with the 1.3. Going from a VW engined Skoda to a proper full Skoda :D

here in the dominican republic when that happe what whe do is clean the headgadket, the edge that meet the engine whe pass it through a machine that makes it even again and replace the seal and re-seat it on the engine, i've seen that made to a million engines that got overheated... why cant you do that on your sisko ???

Cause i cant afford what im gonna be charged to fix it.

I might strip the engine myself once my haynes manual comes through.

Cause i cant afford what im gonna be charged to fix it.

I might strip the engine myself once my haynes manual comes through.

and here it only cost like RD$2,000 to RD$3,000 pesos (thats $57 to $60 dollars US) whe ask for rectify the head gasked, but i realy think what they do is machine the head gasked but oly that, then you change the seal and thats it, maybe, what theyr chargin / what they do is something more than that...

akyways, stick to you felli man, is such a nice one, but im running the old favorit engine on mine and its not bad, just wish it gave better fuel economy and it will once i solve the carburator issue, after that im going to do some dyno testing to see if its back to stock and then tweak a little the timing and valves, to get better umph (top speed is nothing to me , never drive that fast) and fuel economy (for my style of driving)

Tonny, when I cooked the engine on the Shed the garage that was handy quoted ~300 US dollars for the head skim you describe, plus parts and labour, and I'd not paid that for the car!

Oh yeah and goosed (in this context) is one of the many British colloqual terms for broken or worn out.

  • Author

I think my original post has been hi-jacked a bit hear, can anybody please help.

Your symptoms are usually indicative of one or more of:-

1) Vacumn failure; see #2 and #4.

2) Fuel flow failure; check the filter and see if it's dry or clogged solid. If it's solid, there's your culprit; otherwise check the fuel pump, and then the injector(s).

3) HT circuit breakdown. If you have a Kettering arc distributor, start with the condensor by checking the points for pitting and piling. Also check leads, plugs and coil (pack), hall sensor if applicable and TDC sensor.

Also, if people ask supplimentary questions, they're asking for a reason; answer them!

Tonny, when I cooked the engine on the Shed the garage that was handy quoted ~300 US dollars for the head skim you describe, plus parts and labour, and I'd not paid that for the car!

Oh yeah and goosed (in this context) is one of the many British colloqual terms for broken or worn out.

Jesus Christ (oh yeah, i'm a Christian ;) ) talk about culture differences, it just shows you that here, whe get and give help and learn about other skoda ownes (including culture and habitat jeje)

I think my original post has been hi-jacked a bit hear, can anybody please help.

i was actually thinking the same thing, but tell me DRC did you run the engine @1200 rpm without ticking over?, you haven't posted your findings on this matter. Did you inspect the Vacuum ports and filters?

if you have changed the filters (both air and fuel) and still getting the same problem let us know sow we can further evaluate reason/fix

also its pretty great if someone has a problem and closes the thread with a solution, then it becomes a reference / knowledge base for other feli users

  • Author

Hi,

Thanks and sorry, it went a bit sideways talking about other issues.

The car has had a full service all filters changed, renew fuel pump off a 1.6 that was running fine, new fuse board, new relays, new thermostate & housing, all vacum hoses are ok, when the car stops there is still a very good spark just no fuel coming from the 2 pipes that connect to the fuel rail. If you leave the car for about 5 mins (very approx) & come back to it it will start again & then cut out again, ther seems to be no pattern to when it cut's out i.e. temperature or time. It's like somebody just turns the fuel pump off randomly.

Thanks & i am realy greatfull for all your time, i realy love this car & i dont want to get rid of it but i'm running out of ideas.

D, Rc.

  • Author

Sorry i forgot to say,

when it's running it will tick over fine & run as normal you can drive the car fine it will just brake down & i have to walk home:mad:

Sorry i forgot to say,

when it's running it will tick over fine & run as normal you can drive the car fine it will just brake down & i have to walk home:mad:

tick over is when the engine shuts off (so i'm kind of confused when you say it will tick over fine) and what do you mean when you say it will just break down? do you mean to say that you turn it on and drive it fine but with no warning the engine will just stop (sporadic) ?

i had that problem, with my carburetor felicia, it was the coil's ignition

no in mine, the two fuel rail one is for the return and one is from the tank to the pump (the gas pump is a mechanical one in the front of the engine) do you have your pump in the same place or is it a electrical pump in the tank? (sorry for the question felicia GLX in my contry is a bit diferent from standard multi point injection system where you are)

if is a tank pump the it should turn on as soon as the switch is turned to the on position

i would consult the hayne service manual to see where the fuel pump gets its power from (maybe there is a "send me fuel please" swich somewhere that is simply not turning on)

"Tick over" is another "UK English" colliqualism, meaning idle speed.

  • Author

The pump is electric in the tank & I know about the fuel feed & return but i have no fuel at either when it stops. The car run's 100% fine and then it just stop's????????????

Thanks again.

:) You need to get it scanned really to confirm the fault, but I would take an educated guess that your flywheel position sensor is failing intermittently...it fits on the bellhousing.
"Tick over" is another "UK English" colliqualism, meaning idle speed.

i'm learning so much :D

  • Author

Put flywheel sensor on it today and it ran for an hour with no problems at all, i'll road test it tomorrow and report back.

Thanks for the help so far.:thumbup:

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