I got the yellow spring for the 007p dv today and put it in. Unfortunately I don't see any changes in the car's behavior: when accelerating in 4th, from 80km/h up (for example) the car pulls, but from time to time there's a small hiccup which occurs together with a "air"/"hissing" sound, like the turbo's discharging.

Any ideas?

So umm... i was reading around here and someone mentioned that there is a lambda sensor on the exhaust manifold. Is this also the case for the mk1 vrs? I'm still thinking about that loose wire I have that the Skoda dealer said it's coming out of that lambda sensor... Any idea where this wire from the lambda sensor should be going?

There are two lambda sensors on the Vrs one just before the cat and one just after but not on the exhaust manifold. They go into little plastic box's near the exhaust.

There are some pics on Robs ever helpful website Rob's Skoda vRS near the bottom

Hmm, I'm pretty sure the wire's not long enough to make it to that little black box, but I'll check it next time car's up on an elevator. Thanks!

I got the car on elevator today. Yet another mechanic looked at it. Conclusion was that "the wire is coming from the 1st lambda probe, but it was blanked and another one was installed just before the cat". There are indeed two probes one just before the cat and one just after the cat and they're both wired. What I don't get is why these guys keep telling me that there is a lambda probe up there on the engine?!

I think what they're saying is that the pre-cat lambda has been relocated further from the engine and the "spare" connector is redundant.

I know, but, from what i understand and also what martziniuk said, the pre-cat lambda should be just before the cat and that's where it is right now. But my wire comes out of something up onto the engine.

Or maybe I don't understand correctly: Isn't the cat after the downpipe? If so, the thing the wire's coming out from is somewhere above the turbo so it can't be just before the cat...

Hi all, I finally managed to buy a KKL cable and run some diagnostics and some logs on the car. Since I'm very much new at this I would greatly appreciate any advice on:

1. What groups I should log (for my engine I mean) - so far I've done 003, 115 and 118.

2. How I should log - so far 2000rpm -> 6000 rpm WOT in 2nd and 3rd gears.

3. How should I interpret the results. This is especially tricky for me

I attached three logs I did today. Can you please share an opinion about them?

A note about them:

Log 1 - 1st run 3rd gear - this went really well, the car pulled very ok up to about 150km/h.

Log 2 - 2nd run 3rd gear - this went not so well, from 3000-4500 rpm there seemed to be little power compared to the first run, after 4500rpm it went ok

Log 3 - 3rd run 2nd gear - this went also ok, but well, 2nd gear usually does

Another question is: I ran an autoscan and also attached the log. Any ideas about the faults in there? I cleared the one from the engine block with "voltage too low" and it didn't come back. What could it be from?

For some reason I can't attach anything, please find the files here:

Free File Hosting Made Simple - MediaFire

18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low

P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

is because you have had the battery disconnected usually.

Dunno what these are from

Address 17 -------------------------------------------------------

Controller: 1U0 920 811 C

Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V07

Coding: 23112

Shop #: WSC 31480

2 Faults Found:

01314 - Engine Control Module

49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

01304 - Radio

49-00 - No Communications

Address 19 -------------------------------------------------------

Controller: 6N0 909 901

Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001

Coding: 00006

Shop #: WSC 31480

2 Faults Found:

01314 - Engine Control Module

49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

01304 - Radio

49-00 - No Communications

Figures look very jerky, I would get the map looked at, there are some poor efforts out there.

Edited 31 January, 200917 yr by martziniuk
Chassis number removed

Raising the dead thread with some updates, in case anyone's interested

I'm now 99% convinced that the turbo on my car is a K04. I managed to look around it with a mirror while the car was on elevator and there's the triangular KKK logo on it. Also, the downpipe is "sideways" and looks very similar to this one, although it's not so nice and polished

Also, due to some recent problems i've been having with a "mixture too lean" code, 24.4% multiplicative trim on group 032 and no boost whatsoever I replaced my MAF. Turns out the MAF is actually an S3 MAF, which is quite a bit larger than the RS one (leart this the hard way after ordering 2 RS MAFs and thinking the shop was stupid). The S3 MAF makes sense, I guess, since I have the K04 on. One question I still have is if the rubber hose from the MAF to the turbo is still the RS one or the S3 one (i have to change it soon because it's cracked just at the MAF joint, although now it's held in there by the clip, don't know for how long tho')... I took the code from the hose to both Audi and Skoda dealers and neither could find it (presumably changed code in the meantime). Also (if anyone else has one of these S3 MAFs), it looks like only the original Bosch MAF fits in the air filter perfectly, I ordered 2 other "after-market" S3 MAFs and they rattled around (they were 2mm smaller in diameter). Anyway, now with the Bosch one it's all good, running perfectly, and the m.trim is down to 5.5% (after about 25km of driving around).

I still don't know about the map, but hopefully I'll meet in the near future with a Revo dealer and he said he'll help me find out.

Cheers

New update: this is starting to drive me crazy

After a week of running ok I experienced my first no-boost situation today again. Just once in a 2hr trip, and it ran fine after it. Upon arrival I hooked up the vag-com and here's what I get:

"17536 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Mult): System too Lean P1128 - 35-00 - -"

This comes after a week that I scanned the car every day: there was no code, but the fuel trim 032.2 went up and up, from 5% when I replaced the MAF with a new one to 22.7% today.

Despite all this, the car seems to run ok, here are some logs from last night: Free File Hosting Made Simple - MediaFire (it's the zip file called "16 apr 2009.zip")

Tomorrow, if weather is fine, I plan on checking every hose I can find for leaks. Any other ideas?

ps: from what I know, running lean means running hot and I've read that risk of melting something is great. My question is, how real is this risk? I mean, the engine doesn't seem to run hot (needle stays at 1/2 gauge), would I actually know if I run the risk of melting something?

As weather was fine , I checked for broken hoses today, but couldn't find none. The one hose I couldn't check was the one from the MAF to the turbo. Down close to the turbo there is oil and dirt on it, is this normal?

However, I did find something else: one of the three screws holding the downpipe to the turbo was very loose, as in almost fell of. I tightened it and now I can say that the car runs perfectly on acceleration ( before I had hiccups and could literally hear the turbo discharge, then charge again, then discharge, I guess this is where it was leaking air, now there are no more suspicious sounds and pulls evenly from 2000rpm to 6000rpm in every gear), but upon resetting the trims and going about 20km, the multiplicative is back at 20% (while the additive is abut 0.9%).

Any ideas what else I can do? Replace O2 sensor maybe?

Oil contamination could be normal; it's hard to say beyond suggesting you clean it off and see if it comes back in a week or 2, and worry about a bad seal it it does.

I think the loose screw is probably the cause of the bad running. Ref the trim values, that could be a result of the non-standard turbo if you're running a stock map, or a map that's not quite right on a remap.

Are you running the TT/S3 injectors?

That's a good question. Judging from the receipt from the tuner, I'd have to say no. Hopefully this week I'll manage to go get them cleaned, then I can take the code off them and find out Also, with the same occasion I want to find out if the FPR is 3 bar or not.

In the meantime I ran some tests with vag-com for the O2 sensors (blocks 034 and 036 I think) and they came back fine, so I guess the sensors work as advertised

Here are the tests below, in case anyone's interested:

VAG-COM procedures for testing the MAF, O2 sensors and catalytic converter

In order to test your MAF, O2 sensors and catalytic converter, check out the following blocks in the "Engine" control module with your VAG-COM. Blocks 002, 030, 032 and 033 are done in "Measuring Blocks" while blocks 036, 034 and 046 are done in "Basic Settings". Let me know if you have any questions about how to run the tests. (NOTE: The following tests are MKIV VR6 specific. If you have a 1.8T or 2.0 engine, the procedure from running the automated tests is slightly different. For a 1.8T engine, see this THREAD for instructions on how to initiate the tests. I'm not positive about the initiation procedure with a 2.0 engine, but from what I've found, with an AEG engine you manually raise the engine speed to between 1800 and 2200 RPMs, and with the AVH and AZG engines, you derpress the accelerator to the WOT (wide open throttle) position to raise the engine speed to ~2000 RPMs.

Block 002 - Load Registration

- Check the MAF airflow reading at idle. Make sure the car is running and warmed up and the A/C is off. Go to Block 002 and look in Field 4. The value at idle should be between 1 and 25 g/s. If it's lower than 1 g/s, then there is probably a leak in the intake tubing between the MAF and manifold.

Block 030 - Oxygen Sensor Regulation

- Go to Block 030. Field 1 is a three-digit binary code which gives the status of the pre-cat oxygen sensor. Field 2 is the same thing but for the post-cat oxygen sensor. The digits indicate whether or not the sensor heater is working and whether or not the oxygen sensor control is operational and active. The value should fluctuate between 111 (heater on) and 011 (heater off). The last two digits can also fluctuate between '1' and '0', but should be predominantly '1'.

Block 032 - Oxygen Sensor Control Learned Values

- Go to Block 032. Field 1 represents the fuel trim at idle (additive) and Field 2 represents the fuel trim at part load (multiplicative), i.e., while driving. The value should be between -10 and +10% (negative indicates the engine is running rich and positive indicates the engine is running lean). If the value is close to +25% (which is the upper limit), it usually means that the MAF is bad. If the value is somewhere betweeen +10 and +25%, it could mean that the pre-cat oxygen sensor is bad, there is a leak in the intake or that the MAF is on it's way out. The value I found for my car (VR6), which has a new 2.0 MAF and new oxygen sensors is +1.6%.

Block 033 - Pre-Cat Oxygen Sensor Control

- Go to Block 033. The value in Field 1 represents the pre-cat oxygen sensor control. The value should fluctuate at least 2% in the -10 to +10% range.

Block 036 - Post-Cat Oxygen Sensor Control

- Go to Block 036 (this test must be done in basic settings, not measuring blocks). Depress and hold brake pedal to run the automated test. The engine RPMs should raise to around 1400. Field 1 is post-cat sensor voltage. It must fluctuate slightly between 0 and 1V. Field 4 will say either 'TEST OFF/ON' before/while the test is running and either 'B1-S2 OK' (sensor is good) or 'B1-S2 NOT OK' (sensor is bad) after the test is finished. Release the brake pedal after the test finishes.

Block 034 - Aging of Pre-Cat Oxygen Sensor

- Go to Block 034 (this test must be done in basic settings, not measuring blocks). Depress and hold brake pedal to run the automated test. The engine RPMs should raise to around 1400. Field 1 is the engine speed. Field 2 is the catalytic converter temp. Field 3 is the value which tells you how aged the sensor is (not sure what it's called). Field 4 will say either 'TEST OFF/ON' before/while the test is running and either 'B1-S1 OK' or 'B1-S1 NOT OK' after the test is finished. The aging value must be above 0.80. The value for a new sensor is 1.99. The value will decrease as the sensor ages. Release the brake pedal after the test finishes.

Block 046 - Catalytic Converter

NOTE: The test in Block 034 must be done just before this test or it will NOT initiate!

- Go to Block 046 (this test must be done in basic settings, not measuring blocks). Depress and hold brake pedal to start the automated cat. test (last approx. 100 secs - the cat needs to be warmed up above a certain threshold for an accurate reading - the threshold is usually 400°C). The engine RPMs (Field 1) should raise to around 1400. Field 2 is the cat. temp. This will also rise during the test. Field 3 is the cat. conversion efficiency. If the cat is good, the value should be below 0.50 at the end of the test. Field 4 will indicate if the cat is good (CAT B1 - OK) or bad (CAT B1 - NOT OK). Release the brake pedal after the test finishes.

Note: for the tests to start on my car I had to go WOT, accelerator pedal fully depressed (the revs don't rise though ), then step on the brake and then release the brake (or something like that). Then the revs rise to 2000rpm and the tests start.

Cleaned injectors today on ultrasound and also checked their code: 06A 906 031 BA. They seem to be standard 1.8T injectors according to http://www.usrallyteam.com/content/tech/18t_injectors.html.

Also, I have the 3 bar FPR, says so on the side.

Sadly, there is no difference in fuel trims. I reset them, the car ran like crap for about a 2-3 minutes then recovered as it adapted, now the trims are at 0.4% and 19.9%.

One interesting fact i noticed, because I drove around after resetting the trims. The first value went from 0.0% to 3.2%, then back to 0.4% where it remained. The second value only went up, from 0% to 19.9% (and yea, CEL is right around the corner) :(

On Monday I'm scheduled for a fuel pump check.

In the meantime I'm trying to buy a replacement turbo intake hose, but Forge told me a dubious 68mm diameter for the S3 one, while my current hose has 80mm. I'm currently waiting for their answer, I hope it was a mistake.

Edited 23 April, 200917 yr by jmf

Is there a mechanical component to fuel timing control, other than using the TDC sensor?

You are running the wrong size injectors then. The AUQ which is our engine runs the 314cc injectors, this is with the k03s turbo but you're running the K04 turbo. You now effectively need the same fuel setup as the Audi TT BAM engine which has 386cc injectors. This is possibly why you are running lean.

Good point Martin; is there any way you can check the injector peak duty cycle with diagnostic software? Otherwise I may be able to find an injector sizing formula I know I have a copy of at home over the weekend.

Based on the logs I did and the formula "(injection time(ms) / (120000/RPM))*100" I calculated that at aprox. 5000rpm the injectors are 95% open.

The point about the wrong size injectors is a valid one, however, what stumps me is that the car ran for about 4 months without any codes (although it had a 032.2 value of 18%) and only recently began throwing the code and adapting up to 24.5%.

Any idea how much the S3/TT225 injectors go for?

If you're running 95% duty cycle at 5_000rpm then Martin's dead right; your injectors are maxed out before you red line and quite possibly before 5_000 on full throttle, so you need bigger injectors. I'm not very bright , but I can remember Dave Walker saying you shouldn't run over 90% duty at peak power!

Ok, I just got a quote from dubtuning.com at $370 (incl shipping) for a set of TT225 injectors. Sounds pretty reasonable to me as the local Audi stealership quoted about $200 apiece

Have you tried fleabay or a scrap yard, you should be able to pick some up quite cheaply.

I searched around on ebay but no luck (or i'm not searching properly). Scrap yards around here don't usually take s3's apart

edit: I found these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DeatschWerks-Audi-1-8t-Audi-TT-450cc-injectors-450-cc_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ33554QQihZ026QQitemZ390043187048QQtcZphoto

Overkill?

even later edit: seems Deatschwerks also have 370cc injectors for the TT http://www.deatschwerks.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=0_90_91&products_id=103 . They should work for me, right? Anyone know anything about Deatschwerks?

Edited 24 April, 200917 yr by jmf

I'm afraid my knowledge of injectors stops here lol.

I would try get some as close to the TT injector capacity as possible (386cc according to your link) but not as high as the 450cc ones.