Aw, after 5 years of impeccable service - my came to a halt last night with a dull thud. Called out AA man - who says he thinks it may have dropped a valve.

Now, I have had a authorised LPG conversion on this car for 60,000 miles and I don't think for a minute this would be the reason, but my problem is the LPG conversion was done by a specialist and the servicing by Skoda - so I'm wondering who my first port of call should be - If I got in touch with Skoda I'm sure a new engine/rebuild would be a fortune (more than the car's worth)?

It's been services as per the schedule but I don't think the cam belt has been changed - and it's done 83,000 miles.

Where would you start?

Many thanks in advance.

I'd start with a good independant. Neither your LPG fitter, who's warranty ran out 4 years ago, or Skoda's changing of oil and filters can affect a valve or a cambelt. Though I must say you are brave with cambelts, way over 4 years and 80k you are....

First thing I would do is strip off the cambelt cover and swing the engine over on a socket if it will go, inspect the belt and timing. If that is okay, it's camcover then head off till you see the damage.

1.8T's are known for dropping valves every now and then, so it's possible. Your cheapest fix is likely to be a 2nd hand engine. Even a short engine (no turbo etc) would do presuming your turbo didnt' get chewed up by bits of valve and piston. Same result for snapped cambelt.

If there is no block damage and the pistons come to the same height on dial gauge (no bent conrods) and are not damaged, a used head may do the job. Though I'd refirb it first, a head centre should charge around £100 to check it's flat/blast it/clean it/seat the valves.

Greg.

Edited 12 December, 200817 yr by DGW
Quote deleted.

Though I must say you are brave with cambelts, way over 4 years and 80k you are....

The 1.8T current recommendation is 4 years/60K so even further over the required change period.

Thanks for your help Greg. Very helpful.

Now I've been blind in having my car main dealer services on the dot - would they have not changed it by default? I didn't realise I would have to instigate it.

I'd have expected a Skoda dealership to at least explicitly ask about the cambelt. I know mine did (I refused because the service book says it was done 3 years and about 30_000 miles [6 months and under 6_000 miles before I bought it] ago), so I'm hoping they'll ask again next year.

It depends how bothered the apprentice working on it was, and if you are at the end of your 30 minute slot and the next one is waiting. Some are better than others. A bit like VW do specify DSG box changes, but a lot don't get done even though it's taken in for a 'service'.

A FSH is a good thing, but I always look *what* has been done as well, a few stamps mean a few oil changes but maybe not much else.

Greg.

Thanks for your help Greg. Very helpful.

Now I've been blind in having my car main dealer services on the dot - would they have not changed it by default? I didn't realise I would have to instigate it.

Well upon inspection, it appears to have not dropped a valve at all! Neither is it the cam-belt.

A spark plug has forced itself out! Not sure yet how much hassle this is going to be.

But thanks for all the help/info here!

GREAT stuff! Presuming that the threads are damaged, it can be helicoiled or have an insert fitted. Either way it's repairable, hopefully in situ if someone has long applicator to drill/tap it.

Greg.

Well upon inspection, it appears to have not dropped a valve at all! Neither is it the cam-belt.

A spark plug has forced itself out! Not sure yet how much hassle this is going to be.

But thanks for all the help/info here!

I wouldn't want to drill/tap a spark plug in-situ... :eek: surely you'd need to remove the head to do it without dropping swarf etc into the engine :confused:

Only possible on an alloy head, cast swarf is too much to risk, but it's not just possible it's very common and been done thousands of times.

There are a few ways of doing it, starting by solvent cleaning the bore and drying it so no sticky oil on the bore attracts swarf, opening the inlet valve on that cylinder and with the piston near BDC and air blower on the manifold you get a jet of air up out of the hole. Above the plug hole the shop vac sucks the air and swarf out. Drill slowly, fine dust travels up easier than big mounts of swarf.

Even vacuuming it via the manifold while drilling, then using a high pressure air gun to blast out inside the cylinder while the vac is still on when you are done tends to do the job.

Personal preferance of course, I know of a main dealer that will only fit a new head for this issue and an engineering shop that fixes them in situ no problems. So pays money and takes choice. I have done it the latter way with no issues.

You oil the bore up again when done, before starting up

Greg.

I wouldn't want to drill/tap a spark plug in-situ... :eek: surely you'd need to remove the head to do it without dropping swarf etc into the engine :confused:

:iagree:

This is no big deal for an alloy head as most of the swarf comes off in coils rather than grains.

It is important to find a shop that has some experience doing this. Last time I needed this service I contacted the same shop that skims heads for head gasket changes. This maybe a good place to start.

HOWEVER, if you haven't had a cambelt change, then it maybe worth taking the head off and doing the gasket too.

It's a case of balancing the costs.