Cepheuz is it 136 or 135 engine ?

it must be a 135 in my opinion with 8,8:1 compression ratio like mine felicia.

because 136 engines have higher compression ratio than 135 (different pistons)

Cepheuz is it 136 or 135 engine ?

it must be a 135 in my opinion with 8,8:1 compression ratio like mine felicia.

because 136 engines have higher compression ratio than 135 (different pistons)

i think that the best way to figure that out would be to look at the thermostat housing, i know that a engine just like mine but in a 98' model had the housing in metal, with the sender bolted in and with only 1 wire (or two i don't know for sure) but mine has a plastic thermostat housing with the temperature sender of 4 wires clipped (not bolted)

that's the only noticeable characteristic i have found at first glances, i was trying to look for the engine code but got aloof as to the correct location (close to the water pump i couldn't see any numbers or markings

for engine code you may look up your regeistration papers ?

bytheway mine felicia is very early production of face lift versions every plastic bits have a production date stamp 04/98

for example under ash tray there is a stamp says 16/04/1998 for production date.

or lay down the back seats you may able to see stamps also..

and also i've sticker says skoda 135 glx which was given us with the car when we bought it in 05/98

my point is im pretty sure it shuold be a skoda 135 engine (1289cc 43kw 58hp)

for engine code you may look up your regeistration papers ?

bytheway mine felicia is very early production of face lift versions every plastic bits have a production date stamp 04/98

for example under ash tray there is a stamp says 16/04/1998 for production date.

or lay down the back seats you may able to see stamps also..

and also i've sticker says skoda 135 glx which was given us with the car when we bought it in 05/98

my point is im pretty sure it shuold be a skoda 135 engine (1289cc 43kw 58hp)

mine is a 2000 GLX, and i think the engine specs sound about right, does your's have a plastic thermostat housing ?, if it does, then yes, whe could be talking about the same engine (unless they changed the engine from 98 to 00)

no no i dont think it was changed. i also have a plastic thermostat housing

have a look we take engine away last year for changing timing chain and clutch set also up engine mounting bush.(we decide it'll be way too easy to take it away instead of doing step by step )

yup, i just checked with a ultra bright flashlight and cleaned the area with a steel spongue

on the side it says the engine # 3 numbers a dot and the 135,

on the top, its mark "L" right where the thermostat housing is

so if its the compresion you talked about, what is the octane requirements of my car ?

Edited 5 January, 200917 yr by Cepheuz

In Turkey we have 4 choices.. regular 95 octane pump gas very interesting out of spec 97 octane (they call and sell it 95 octane+ some addetives ) 98 octane and shell v-power racing 100 octane.

i used 95 octane for 6 years. now i've LPG conversion kit.

i recommend you 95 octane, nonetheless combustion chamber design can handle with 92 octane.

it depends on your experience.

but in my opinion this engine will achieve better results with 95 octane.

thanks for that i read that filling with gasoline with a co octane rating higher thatn what the car need is realy no gain sinces it doent affect performance

but basicaly, to me, is more of a well this works better, this is it, jejeje

turkey has good standarts, i mean the regular being 95 octane, that says a lot

but you sayd my engine's compression ratio is 8.8:1 right,?

what octane is needed for that compression ratio ?

you know its not a exact way to determine octane rating for internal combustion engine just looking its compression ratio, there are some other important details like combustion chamber design and intake system (turbocharge, sc atmospheric)

but we re talking about 135L engine so in my opinion this engine can happily run with 92 ~ 95 ocatane.

i believe 135 engines combustion chamber desing and dome over the piston allows it to happily combust 92 ~ 95 octane (or even less than 92 with some igniton setting changes :confused:)

good, so my mark is 92ROZ

This is a sip from the web page of the pretrolium distiller here in the dominican republic;

REFIDOMSA comercializa dos tipos de gasolinas automotrices:

• Gasolina regular sin plomo con un octanaje RON mínimo de 89 unidades

• Gasolina premium sin plomo con un octanaje RON mínimo de 95 unidades

RON: se refiere a la tendencia de detonación de la gasolina a bajas velocidades.

so the normal is 89, and that gave me 33km/g(us) and the mix of 1 to 1 is 92 and that gave me 42km/g amazing 3 octane numbers in differences and look at the efficiency of the motor, i'm now running straight 95RON, lets see what happens

its very considerable difference

let me give another example ;

in my family we have another car its 2001 opel vectraB 1.6 elegance (vauxhall vectraB facelift with z16xe coded engine)

if i use regular 95 everything is fine but i experianced that 98 octane fuel is more efficent.

in my opinion ECU detects knock via KS sensor and make some adjustments in ignition map.

believe me it gives at least additional 60km for one full tank. also the noise from hydrolic tappets at very low rpms which i noticed with 95 octane had gone.

so dig it with 95 octane it'll be good i think.

the felicia 1.3 does not have a knock sensor.

o.k. in my car the 89ron gave me 33km/g, the 1 to 1 mix of 89 and 95 (92ron average) gave me 42km/g and the straight 95 gave me 30km/g

for my car to take advantage of the 95ron i would have to advance the timing and i suspect it would only yield 33km/g so is a no contest, from here on, i will pump 92ron when available or mix regular and premium on 1 to 1 ratio

i know know why tuning the ignition timing with a vacuum always yielded good result, as it similar to what the computer does in your cars, advance the timing as much as possible without getting knock and you will get the best result from the car

so the timing of the car (stock) is set to use 92 or 91 octane, if you have a MPi the computer will take take 89, 92, or 95 fine cu's it will adjust the timing accordingly but WILL yield slightly lesser performance with 89 and 95 (but 95 will feel smoother and give a placebo effect)

Edited 9 January, 200917 yr by Cepheuz

this is an extract from wikipeadia about gasoline octane rating;

87 octane fuel, the "regular" gasoline in the US and Canada, is 91–92 in Europe. However most European pumps deliver 95 (RON) as "unleaded", equivalent to 90–91 US (R+M)/2, and some even deliver 98 (RON), 100 (RON), or 102 (RON).[2]

so that's why ahmetH and i where talking diferent numbers, so the 92 i'm pumping and its giving est results is something like 98 and the 95 hes pumping is like the 89 here,

so guys, remember to only pump 98, you'll get the best performance and mileage without having to "tweak" the ignition