Hi

Have the above car, with a problem.

It runs fine and then the engine "dies". The rev counter fluctuates, revs drop and car slows to 20 mph. I guess its like a "limp mode". Then it picks up and is fine.

Been to the dealers and they cant find a problem as it was fine when there.

Has anyone had this problem?

Any prompts would be good.

Thanks

Mike

I have a 1999 SLXi which is probably much the same car. A year ago the thermostat seized up up which resulted in overheating. The replacement of the thermostat and sensor brought problems. It would take ages to detail the full history but the ecu has been tested twice without showing any faults. The throttle body was cleared of carbon deposits and changes were made to the ignition timing. It's been well maintained and good mechanics have worked on the car.

The faults have been mainly on the tick over. For example, self revving and tick over being far too high when stationary. On the last visit to the garage the mechanic reckoned it could be the throttle control assembly which would be expensive or maybe the temperature sender which I had replaced. The dealer only supplied complete assemblies which I didn't feel I could fit so I made use of the thermostat, its cover and the temperature sensor unit.

With the new thermostat, sensor and ignition timing set to TDC the car was going beautifully though the temperature gauge went to slightly above the middle. All that was wrong was that coming to a halt just before the temperature was fully warmed up caused the engine to stall. My route involves heavy traffic so this has been a big nuisance.

I've just had the car back and the garage swapped the temperature sensor back to the old one. On the first drive the car went mad with self revving and the tick over when stationary was far too high. The last two drives it's settled down. The temperature gauge however is now registering well below the middle. I suspect the temperature sensor on the new assembly provided by the dealer wasn't right and that the original one may have been slightly damaged in the initial overheating crisis.

Skoda spares can be a horrendous price so really it needs to be something simple like this or the cars become more trouble than they are worth. The problem isn't exactly the same as yours but these thoughts may be of some help. When the cars are running right they are a joy and the engines are meant to be almost indestructible. Unfortunately, they seem to be rather temperamental. Faults are hell to pin down. Take it in and the car behaves perfectly but it then plays up on the way home.

I have a 1999 SLXi which is probably much the same car. A year ago the thermostat seized up up which resulted in overheating. The replacement of the thermostat and sensor brought problems. It would take ages to detail the full history but the ecu has been tested twice without showing any faults. The throttle body was cleared of carbon deposits and changes were made to the ignition timing. It's been well maintained and good mechanics have worked on the car.

The faults have been mainly on the tick over. For example, self revving and tick over being far too high when stationary. On the last visit to the garage the mechanic reckoned it could be the throttle control assembly which would be expensive or maybe the temperature sender which I had replaced. The dealer only supplied complete assemblies which I didn't feel I could fit so I made use of the thermostat, its cover and the temperature sensor unit.

With the new thermostat, sensor and ignition timing set to TDC the car was going beautifully though the temperature gauge went to slightly above the middle. All that was wrong was that coming to a halt just before the temperature was fully warmed up caused the engine to stall. My route involves heavy traffic so this has been a big nuisance.

I've just had the car back and the garage swapped the temperature sensor back to the old one. On the first drive the car went mad with self revving and the tick over when stationary was far too high. The last two drives it's settled down. The temperature gauge however is now registering well below the middle. I suspect the temperature sensor on the new assembly provided by the dealer wasn't right and that the original one may have been slightly damaged in the initial overheating crisis.

Skoda spares can be a horrendous price so really it needs to be something simple like this or the cars become more trouble than they are worth. The problem isn't exactly the same as yours but these thoughts may be of some help. When the cars are running right they are a joy and the engines are meant to be almost indestructible. Unfortunately, they seem to be rather temperamental. Faults are hell to pin down. Take it in and the car behaves perfectly but it then plays up on the way home.

did you have any service done long before putting the new thermostat ???

with a new thermostat you should expect the temp needle to be a little higher than the middle on heavy traffic and a little below the middle mark on long runs...

if you car is running below the middle mark in the temp, its not a good thing, at all so put back the thermostat...

as far as the stalling, you might want to check the Hall sender, or use the search tool in the forum and search "paper shop sindrome"

Hi

Have the above car, with a problem.

It runs fine and then the engine "dies". The rev counter fluctuates, revs drop and car slows to 20 mph. I guess its like a "limp mode". Then it picks up and is fine.

Been to the dealers and they cant find a problem as it was fine when there.

Has anyone had this problem?

Any prompts would be good.

Thanks

Mike

when you say that the engine dies.. what do you mean, does it stop or does it still run but at very, very low power...

I would start off fitting another temp sender, they dont cost much off Jorily, and then fit a coil, It sounds as if there isnt a strong enough spark, the engine knocks, knock sensor picks this up, tells ecu to alter timing, timing alters too much compared to throttle possition and then engine over revs, tries to compensate and then stalls

a common problem is the MOT sensor, is gets poluted with engine oil, take it out, clean it with contact cleaner (put it in a bag spray contact cleaner, close the bag, shake it, take it out wipe it and fit it) if that doesnt work, just replace

Cepheus, when I saw your post I thought "Why didn't he read my post instead of just quoting it?" Of course there's a thermostat fitted now! However, I followed your search suggestion and came to "temp sensor colour band important?" This is I think an important issue but unfortunately the thread fails to complete with the required information.

If such a small item can have a massive impact on the performance of these cars we need more information. I've been out to check and the unfitted sensor has a yellow band. It's in fact the original so the garage didn't refit it like they said. What's on looks new but I can't see any colour band and I'm not going to try removing it. I think the one in the new housing was blue.

Can anyone give details on what the colour banding is all about and the way the different sensor specs influence performance? In easily understandable language please. Sorry, perhaps I should have started a new thread but I reckon all these problems may be closely linked.

Edited 7 February, 200917 yr by bazz2004
Thread may go off original posters question

With the new thermostat, sensor and ignition timing set to TDC the car was going beautifully though the temperature gauge went to slightly above the middle. All that was wrong was that coming to a halt just before the temperature was fully warmed up caused the engine to stall. My route involves heavy traffic so this has been a big nuisance.

this is what i payd attention to when i posted about the MOT sensor,

now, apart from that the color bands in the temp sender are yellow and blue, i don't know exactly the diference but they are not compatible and send out a diferent reading to the computer (but not to the dashboard)

i am sorry if i don't express myself correctly, i do know i have a problem expresing my ideas so please forgive me.

i'm not a mechanic, just a person who fiddle a lot and has a bit of info from experience, thats all... i just hope i can help you pin point te problem, fix it, and not have to shell out a lot of money (trust me i make less than you and understand far too whell)

i would suggest a throttle body problem, but without seeing it it's anybody's guess

a common problem is the MOT sensor,

What the F*** is a n MOT sensor?

It might be an idea to check where the throttle cable connects to the throttle body, sometimes the clip moves on the cable outer and drops the tickover

Standard colour band is yellow on a 1.6

What the F*** is a n MOT sensor?

It might be an idea to check where the throttle cable connects to the throttle body, sometimes the clip moves on the cable outer and drops the tickover

jajaja, jesus i'm such a doof, talk about a typo

i meant MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure

i'm sorry for being a doof

Cepheuz, my apologies that you are upset about your English. From your location I'd guess your first language is possibly Spanish. Your use of English is nothing to be worried about. I am educated to university level in the UK so you should expect my posts to be good - at least in terms of English. Your posts are fine so please be more confident.

I admire anyone who expresses themselves in another language. My attempts to learn French a few years ago didn't get far and the British are shameful at other languages. I work with British born people. Some of them can't express themselves properly and fill out sentences with swear words.

Yes, I expect that I earn considerably more than you but I do not have a high powered job. I work in a warehouse driving trucks and doing jobs like order picking. I don't know for how much longer though. I'm getting close to retirement age and we expect redundancies soon.

Thank you for trying to help with your posts. You have been thanked on the forum and must not be discouraged. I'm sure quite a number of us have little expertise. Really, my aim is to get my Felicia right so that I can feel better about selling it.

This post may be a bit off thread but I'm sure that it says something that needed to be said. Please keep posting.

Cepheuz, my apologies that you are upset about your English. From your location I'd guess your first language is possibly Spanish.

i'm not upset, sometimes is difficult for other to understand me that's all, and i'll tell you why...

I'm bilingual from birth, never took english lessons, just picked it up, if you think that's weird i also work with computer, play bass (classic and electric) guitar, violin and mandolin (they're tune the same way) fix everything around the house (mine and my relatives) be it electricity, pluming, etc... draw, did studio work as an acoustic engineer / sound specialist work networks (small as of now) topography and installation and i've learned all of this empirically... not one teacher, and i never learned to drive, just go in a car and drove from the get go as it was something i did from ages(love doing that in my feli)

now that paints a picture, why... cuz i've been diagnosed with dyslexia A.T.D. by two specialist at age 8 and 14

now another thing is the way i think, i've basicaly sumarized that people think in a trail of thoughts, a line... i don't i jump between trail of thoughs and actualy think in a star matter (exapanding instead of evolving) and i think that the ideas run too fast for me to express them correctly

i belive this is why i've always had a hard time expresing myself... but i'm happy (my joke are crap down jajaja) but the best time is when i'm asleep, i can talk in a matter that people undestand when i'm a sleep

Hi all

Thanks for the time you have taken, have read with interest and will act accordingly and let you know results.

Rgds

Mike