2004 fabia vrs, 30,000, first clutch as far as im aware and now slipping due to what many describe on this site as bad driving. So im opening this thread for advice on how to drive keeping the clutch sweet. Also does the fact its cold at the moment cause more slipage then usual because I find once it stops slipping it wont slip again on the same journey no matter where on the rev range i boot it. Mine will jump just after 2000rpm to 3000rpm and then stick around there until it catches up, very fustrating!

cheers

Do you mean how can you drive it to avoid the slipping? If so someone else can answer that. Some people reported having some luck by mistreating it a bit to clear any possible glazing. Try a search

Otherwise...

Don't hold on the bite at traffic lights/hills etc. that's what the brakes for

Don't short change

Don't hold the clutch half in

Don't boot it below 2000 rpm

etc.

Basically... clutch either fully engaged, or fully disengaged. In between = slippage = pointless wear on an expensive part.

don't sidestep the clutch at 60mph in an attempt to try to spin the wheels...

Yeah was after that kinda of advice so thanks. Will see how i get on as i do have a bad habit of using the power to low down the range but the vrs has so much pull it doesnt feel like you need to shift down but for the sake of the clucth i reckon i can change my habits.

ps...would never try and spin the wheels at 60mph lol

I think the major part of your problem is :

2004 Skoda Fabia VRS in Red. Remapped to 190 BHP and 310LBS of Torque.

Uprated clutch investment is needed I recon otherwise you could be changing the clutch quite often. Also seeing as the car has that good chunk of torque - why not uprate the parts required now that they need raplacing and use it!! That's what my plan is going to be anyway!! lol.

Yeah was after that kinda of advice so thanks. Will see how i get on as i do have a bad habit of using the power to low down the range but the vrs has so much pull it doesnt feel like you need to shift down but for the sake of the clucth i reckon i can change my habits.

ps...would never try and spin the wheels at 60mph lol

I did... in my Skyline...

never again.......

I think the major part of your problem is :

2004 Skoda Fabia VRS in Red. Remapped to 190 BHP and 310LBS of Torque.

well spotted that'll also do it

Do you mean how can you drive it to avoid the slipping? If so someone else can answer that. Some people reported having some luck by mistreating it a bit to clear any possible glazing. Try a search

Otherwise...

Don't hold on the bite at traffic lights/hills etc. that's what the brakes for

Don't short change

Don't hold the clutch half in

Don't boot it below 2000 rpm

etc.

Basically... clutch either fully engaged, or fully disengaged. In between = slippage = pointless wear on an expensive part.

What i dont understand is why is the clutch slipping, when i boot it at low revs the clutch isnt engaged. sorry if that sounds stupid. What about when your in a slow moving que and you dont use any revs to lift the clutch off in 1st, is that doing harm?

What i dont understand is why is the clutch slipping, when i boot it at low revs the clutch isnt engaged. sorry if that sounds stupid. What about when your in a slow moving que and you dont use any revs to lift the clutch off in 1st, is that doing harm?

tbh, booting at low revs is more likely to hurt your flywheel than clutch due to the extra vibes, but is when the slippage will be more noticeable.

I take it you mean pulling away without the accelerator, just using the clutch slowly? That is probably slightly better as the revs are lower, but at the point you're moving up from the bite your clutch is effectively slipping and causing wear... that's how it works.

I normally wait until the gaps big enough to just pull away then coast in first gear for a bit :p unless I'm causing a blockage behind me.

I did... in my Skyline...

never again.......

:eek: £££££££

190 BHP through a clutch designed for 130 BHP, never going to last long unless you nanny the thing, which sort of defeats the purpose of a remap. If you are keeping the extra horses, you really need an uprated clutch. Even a mild remap to 160 BHP is pushing it.

Even a mild remap to 160 BHP is pushing it.

That's a very different point of view to what's normally posted. The impression usually given is that the power is irrelevant, it's the torque that's liable to damage the clutch. There are literally dozens of people on here with JabbaSport 170bhp+ remaps on the standard clutch who've done 50K miles plus with no clutch issues. The advice I've always seen is don't use full throttle in 5th or 6th under 2000rpm as that helps protect the clutch from the massive torque.

I personally know 7 vRS owners with Jabba remaps from early in the car's life who now have over 60,000 miles on their cars with no clutch issues at all. When you get your car remapped Jabba tell you up front that they can give you a very large amount of torque indeed with a custom remap, but they limit it to about 300lb/ft torque unless you want an uprated clutch.

Just having a quick look at all the other ECU tuners, they all seem to top out about 300lb/ft torque as that seems to be the 'safe' limit for the standard clutch, but I'm sure someone else will pop in here and correct me if I'm wrong. I'm also quite likely to get my lb/ft and nm of torque mixed up. Darned imperial/metric thang:confused:

I'm very interested in this as I'm toying with the idea of getting my 70K mile vRS mapped for the first time and what everyone says is that remapping a high mileage car isn't ideal but the engines are strong and the standard clutch will almost certainly need replacing soon, if not immediately after the remap. And that it's torque related, not power.

Mine has just gone 105K with FSH and it's been on a motorway all its life, it drives better than my last one which I had from new -28K and it's faster and tighter than the old mans one which is on 48Kish.

Mine's going for a map soon on the standard clutch and of course it'll probably toast it but if I get 10k out of the clutch that's in there, then that's a years motoring for me so great.

I changed the turbo at 98K too so that's ok luckily!