I just put the ignition to the on position and got an obliging helper to keep their foot on the accelerator pedal for ten minutes

cheers guys, went for drive and it does seem a lot smoother, I pulled the fuse out for an hour on the ecu before I went for a drive aswell.

What's all this about needing to use VagCom to re-align??

I thought you just needed to the do the drivers door open and ignition on for 2 mins trick?

That's what I have done anyway and seems fine to me.

What's all this about needing to use VagCom to re-align??

I thought you just needed to the do the drivers door open and ignition on for 2 mins trick?

That's what I have done anyway and seems fine to me.

Only if you disconnect it, and as far as I know the open door, wink at the bird next door trick doesn't work, although I'll be honest it does make some noises when you do it ao it does something, just not sure what.

Those noises are not from the TB although they are from nearby inside the manifold. after realligning my TB I still had the pipe off and turned the ignition on and the noises where from behind the TB. TB did not move at all during this phase and only moved when I started pressing the pedal to check it was moving freely. I can only hazard a quess that it is the injectors initialising.

HTH

Ian

Hmm..not sure what to think now then.

Anyone selling VagCom cheap

Get one of the local VAG-Com owners from the forum to reset it for you, in exchange for some beer money

I just put the ignition to the on position and got an obliging helper to keep their foot on the accelerator pedal for ten minutes

Sounds good

Although I wouldn't mind a copy of it. I have a Mk1 Oct VRS, my nephew has just got a Fabia VRS and my girlfriend drives a Polo..so I could use it on all of those

Great news ...

I dropped one of the bolts down the intake hose

Its also ****ing down outside now any ideas on how to get this bolt out without standing there for hours?

Great news ...

I dropped one of the bolts down the intake hose

Its also ****ing down outside now any ideas on how to get this bolt out without standing there for hours?

Telescopic magnet pen thing maybe. Saved me so many times picking up bits of metal that I've dropped down something. I even found a scalpel blade down one of the waterways in my suzuki inlet manifold!!

Failing that, maybe a magnet on the end of a bit of string.

Or it's a intercooler out job! Hate it when crap like this happens! Good luck with sorting it.

Telescopic magnet pen thing maybe. Saved me so many times picking up bits of metal that I've dropped down something. I even found a scalpel blade down one of the waterways in my suzuki inlet manifold!!

Failing that, maybe a magnet on the end of a bit of string.

Or it's a intercooler out job! Hate it when crap like this happens! Good luck with sorting it.

I just tried the magnet on string....gets caught up on the kink in the hose

I notice further down a jubilee that could come off but cant get to the screw as its aiming at the headlight. The telescopic magnet would possibly get in there...now to source one.

Places like pound shops often have these things in. Or just a motor factors that sell tools or halfrauds.

I always thought these throttle bodies alligned themselves. I know thats the case on the Felly.

Phil

Headlight out and release the hose from the top of the intercooler. The bolt will either be sitting on top of the cores in the intercooler or still in the hose, just out of reach.

If the jubilee clip has a hex shaped head you might be able to get a small socket or spanner on there to loosen it enough to twist it into a position where you can loosen it further with a screwdriver and not have to take the light out to get to it

Headlight out and release the hose from the top of the intercooler. The bolt will either be sitting on top of the cores in the intercooler or still in the hose, just out of reach.

If the jubilee clip has a hex shaped head you might be able to get a small socket or spanner on there to loosen it enough to twist it into a position where you can loosen it further with a screwdriver and not have to take the light out to get to it

Yea thats how i got it in the end light out and hose off....it was sitting on top of IC but was stuck behind some bar which is why i couldnt get it out before even though i could hear it moving.

Glad it was easy job ..but the rain didnt help at all lol .. thanx for all for help

Also TB looks nice and shiny now

I finally got around to this job today, as well.

After reading all the posts about this I thought it wouldn't be that big of a job. I had even got a new gasket, and all.

How wrong one can be. I for the world of me could not get any of my tools to fit to the bolt sitting furthest away from you. The problem is that the window washing fluid container sits so close to the TB. I suspect this is due to me having a left-hand drive car. I got one of my tiny screwdriver to barely fit between the TB and the washer container, but it was impossible to get any torque on it. My wrench kit was either too short or too long (w/ extension arm) to fit. I decided to leave the TB in place, and just remove the hose.

To get the TB off, I would have to take the window washing fluid container and what it looked like some other stuff off as well, disconnecting many wires and hoses in the process. Not a job for me, then

I was able to clean the TB pretty well even without taking it off. Sprayed some carb cleaner in there and wiped it clean. Let it dry for a while, then reconnect the hose.

Did it do any good then?

Well, before, the car was rather rough at idle (when warm) and had a definite flat spot between 1500 and 1800 rpm, which even made the car stall a few times at traffic lights After the cleaning, the idle was smooth as a baby's bottom and the flat spot was definitely not as noticable. It was not gone completely, but the power delivery felt smoother.

All in all, I was unable to do the job properly, but still managed to clean it somehow and I'm really pleased with the results. Thanks for the tip, Briskoda