You wouldn't Adam and Eve it. Problem sorted after all that !

Edited 1 May, 200917 yr by Littlebull
Cured !

CV joint maybe on its way out, if it starts to make a knocking noise it might be this.

check simple stuff like catching of wheel rub marks on arch lining.

Crap in you brake disks ect.

If it gets worse it could be your CV joint or bearings at a worse.

Does it only happen when you have it on full lock? This may sound silly but it isnt the noise of your power steering pump is it? just like to check all options

check your cv boots see if theres grease everywhere

I would say that if its a clicking noise on full lock it would be your CV joint. You guys that have there cars modified and that are being driven "briskly" are going to put more stress on driveshaft components.

Flog it, and buy the "Skip"

Hi

I would sugest you run your hand around the large end of the rubber gator, if it is greasy you can bet it will be the CV joint. Mine has gone twice (fortunately replaced under warranty) Either side of the 3 year warranty.

My wife has a GT TDI Golf and hers did exactly the same.

First time for me was light tapping turning right and the second time was loud knocking - which encouraged my vehicle to limp onto a recovery truck and turn up outside the main dealer. Its amazing how many main dealer staff hid from view.

which encouraged my vehicle to limp onto a recovery truck and turn up outside the main dealer. Its amazing how many main dealer staff hid from view.

They weren't D M Keith in West Yorkshire by any chance were they ??? IMHO Ive had absolute shocking service from them in the past and I know several that have also commented the same.

On a serious note with the fear of sounding like a dumb blonde thats not mechanically minded. What the heck is a CV joint ???

Can somebody please take a pick and show me where to look exactly ???

CV joint, Constant Velocity joint. Because the car is driving and steering with the front wheels the drive shafts have to have some form of flexibility when the wheel is being steered.

If you remove a front wheel you will see the disc and brake caliper, look behind the disc and there is the drive shaft coming from the gearbox diff into the wheel hub. At each end of the shaft there is a rubber gaiter (boot) the boot in the back of the wheel hub contains the CV joint.

What the heck is a CV joint ???

Its a constant velocity joint. There are generally two on a driveshaft. One at the gearbox end (inner) and one at the wheel hub end (outer). From underneath, you may have to remove undertray look at the inside of a wheel. You will see a shaft going from the wheel/hub to the gearbox. At the end of the shaft (at the wheel) you will see a rubber boot( some say that it might resemble a large walnut wip). This boot covers up the internals of a cv joint. The internals consists of bearings in a casing which are packed with grease. If the casing cracks or wear has taken place then you will hear clicking on full lock.

EDIT: Baten to it by Moley!

I have NOT heard a clicking noise (yet) but... when I turn a tight right hand corner (turning the wheel 180 degrees or more) at say 20 to 30mph and with NO radio or fan on I hear a whirling (turning) noise from the wheel arch area and I have NEVER heard it make that noise before.

If it is a CV joint how much do you think Im looking at £££ wise ??? :(

Ive got an extended Skoda Warranty but its like trying to get blood out of a stone.

I will have a good feel around that CV joint tomorrow and take some pics to see what u guys diagnose.

I took these pics about 15 minutes ago of the CV joints in question outer and inner.

What you think ??? Ive got no idea lol :confused:

It's difficult to see the problem from the photos, the boots look OK. Jack up the front of the car and put it on axle stands, spin the wheels and listen for the noise, turn the wheels from lock to lock and spin the wheels to see if you can hear where the noise is coming from. The only problem with this test is that sometimes with the weight of the car off of the wheel you can't hear any noise. With the wheel on the car and the car jacked up is there any movement when you rock the wheel at the top and bottom, if so it could be a wheel bearing on the way out.

if so it could be a wheel bearing on the way out.

Just spoken to my local garage (Trustworthy) Gordons Tyres I described exactly what the noise was and he said exactly above sounds like a wheel bearing is on the way out :(

Im off up to the garage at 3pm for him to just have a quick look but how much do you reckon Im looking at fitted ???

I had my nearside wheel bearing replaced last November on my vrs. Cost £170 at an independant...

If you can, get the car into a steady turn that makes the noise going as fast as you can stand/manage, then brake. If the noise gets worse or stops when you brake, it's definately a bearing, because when you brake you take all the play out of the bearings.

Just spoken to my local garage (Trustworthy) Gordons Tyres I described exactly what the noise was and he said exactly above sounds like a wheel bearing is on the way out :(

Im off up to the garage at 3pm for him to just have a quick look but how much do you reckon Im looking at fitted ???

I am having EXACTLY the same problem!! I popped in to Skoda in Llandysul earlier this week and they said wheel bearing too, having it done Tuesday, didn't ask about price or anything....

Well went to the garage today and took the mechanic out for a spin but couldnt hear the bloody noise so he didnt bother taking the wheel off to look.

I will get it checked else where (obvious they couldnt be bothered) but in a related threadmy camber is negative and causing my inside tyres to wear too fast on the inside wall.

Have you had the car lowered (springs or coilovers)? If so you're pretty much bound to have introduced some extra negative camber.

Regardless, if you suspect excess camber or caster causing tyre wear, you need to take the car for a full alignment check, but there's no point in doing that until the suspected wheel bearing wear is fixed or known to be something else.

Camber and castor aren't adjustable I don't think. Not easily anyway.

You can have the toe adjusted though.

I know that, but you can't fix suspension if you don't know what's wrong with it in the first place.

Oh and LittleBull, I've jst remembered some years ago getting a new tyre on my car at a garage. By co-incidence there was another one in getting a new NS lower ball joint and LHF tyre. The old tyre was down to the belts on the inside! :eek: :eek:

If you put lowering springs on your car make sure you get a 4 wheel tracking test done by your local garage

Anyone an idea of the cost of the CV joints mine need replacing

OEM CV joint kit is in region of £100 to £120 and then its labour.

Mine was under warranty but dealers quoted £200 all in for work and independent £150 all in.

After having a full Geo check done at IVC VAG specialists in Leeds (Excellent) they concluded "Nothing wrong with either CV joints or wheel bearings" but they did find the reason what it was making the noise and its nothing serious at all.

The front nearside wheel is minutely miss shaped (which is not noticeable to the naked eye) and causes unoticeable vibration when cornering hard right in wet weather which makes the noise.

I was just bugger me! I've spent nearly £200 to diagnose that lol. All I can say is bloody pot holes ! Im voting Conservative next time lol.

I've wrote a letter to complain to my MP about thr roads lol

£95 all in from an independent using OME