The impact of ARB will depend on the type of roads you drive on.

On smooth roads and where bumps run the width of the road (so both wheels ecounter them at the same time) there will be little difference. The big difference is when you drive on potholed roads when wheels encounter irregularities one at a time - in this case the ARB couples the disturbance to the wheel its connected to on the other side of the car.

If you frequently drive potholed roads then going back to 17" would be your best option. Any 18" tyre will have a thin and relatively stiff sidewall so there may not be a major difference between brands.

Hi bahnstormer,

would you mind trying the softest setting and keeping the 18"? This would more or less match my actual setup. I'm enjoying it.

HTH

Hi bahnstormer,

would you mind trying the softest setting and keeping the 18"? This would more or less match my actual setup. I'm enjoying it.

HTH

I was thinking of this as a first and quick option; just got to find somewhere to be able to get under the car to change the setting.

mine came with the 18" pilot exalto 2 wheels as standard and i never found them intruding in any way.

my guess is that it must be the arb being too stiff maybe.

you sould drive with my coilovers then:eek: nightmare on uk roads, perfect in germany though

Hi Peeps

Just thought Id add my experience with a Neuspeed ARB on my PD VRS Estate with 18" wheels. I have it set on max stiffness and the balance seems about right - generally very neutral with nice turn-in and none of the previous understeer. Lifting off on corners induces controllable oversteer with no tendency for the backend to step out uncontrollably. Ive tried it at speed in the wet and its turn-in is less pronounced than the Fabia VRS with Jabba RARB - its still quite hard to get the backend really out of line - which is just what I wanted. Its not scarey. I agree some suppleness is lost and it feels a little more nervous on the awful roads where I live - but its no big deal. I frequently carry about 100-200kg in the boot and body roll is significantly reduced without causing any scarey sudden change of direction stuff. One word of warning for the DIYer - The OEM RARB bracket uses stretch bolts - these will need replacing with new or alternative bolts because , as i found out , they simply snap off when used again. Neuspeed dont include any new bolts in their kit. Fitting though is quick and easy with a pair of ramps to gain access.

The OEM RARB bracket uses stretch bolts - these will need replacing with new or alternative bolts because , as i found out , they simply snap off when used again. Neuspeed dont include any new bolts in their kit. Fitting though is quick and easy with a pair of ramps to gain access.

Where does this information come from? This really surprises me since ARB bracket bolts in generally are done to a relatively low torque - never heard of stretch bolts being used in this application on any car.

stretch bolts?????? definately not on the drop links as they have a ball joint on them. and I cant imagine they would have them on the brackets. i always thought stretch bolts were used where a really tight seal was required(amongst other things) i cant see why the anti roll bar would require stretch bolts

stretch bolts?????? definately not on the drop links as they have a ball joint on them. and I cant imagine they would have them on the brackets. i always thought stretch bolts were used where a really tight seal was required(amongst other things) i cant see why the anti roll bar would require stretch bolts

Stretch bolts are used on the RARB brackets with a torque setting of only 20nm. I'll attach a photo if you want. It surprised me too. One snapped in half during hand tightening with a 3/8 socket wrench . I replaced my stretch bolts with ordinary high tensile bolts plus spring washer and washer.

OK, but where do you get this info? They are only a stubby little bolt and I can't see you getting any stretch at all at 20Nm (not unless the bolt is made of rubber!). I can't see why you would want a stretch bolt in this location, since all the load is in shear, not tension.

OK, but where do you get this info? They are only a stubby little bolt and I can't see you getting any stretch at all at 20Nm (not unless the bolt is made of rubber!). I can't see why you would want a stretch bolt in this location, since all the load is in shear, not tension.

Im told it is due to assembly processes and the use of stretch bolts gives greater consistency in ther clamping forces.

See pic. I snapped one with minimal force. Thats why they must always be replaced and not reused. Not really progress IMO. My landrovering days showed the value of reuseable boltstime and time again

Try here http://www.boltscience.com/

That bolt has been overtightened past the yield point and snapped.

I think you're assuming its a stretch bolt because VAG give a torque+angle setting.

Stretch bolts have an long unthreaded body ('shank'), usually narrower than the threaded portion, which stretches and acts like a spring in tension when the bolt is torqued up. They are used in applications where a powerful and constant compressive force must be applied to a joint (e.g. cylinder head, main bearings, sometimes subframes).

The fasteners for the rear ARB brackets are really setscrews (as opposed to bolts) and threaded all the way to the head - they are not stretch bolts.

There is no way that bolt should have sheared with 20Nm torque applied. Either the bolt was faulty or the torque wrench was way out of whack, or set wrongly.

You are correct in that ideally these bolts should be replaced after each use, as should the self-locking nut on the drop link lower joint.

Hi bahnstormer,

would you mind trying the softest setting and keeping the 18"? This would more or less match my actual setup. I'm enjoying it.

HTH

Got my bar reset on the 'soft' (about the same as medium on a Whiteline bar) setting this afternoon and initial reaction is that the ride is definitely more compliant and having done a twirl around a few roundabouts any move back towards understeer seems negligible; probably helped by my WALK that really pulls the car into a corner.

So far so good.

Edited 23 May, 200917 yr by bahnstormer vrs

cant argue with that.

having a compliant ride with negligent difference in handling is exactly what everyone wants.

bahnstormer does that mean that in hidsight you might have stayed on your previous ARB had you realised the positive effects of WALK.

Yours and genoas WALK review sold me on it, so next I need you to trial the whiteline bumpsteer kit to let me know the benefits:O

Sy:thumbup:

cant argue with that.

having a compliant ride with negligent difference in handling is exactly what everyone wants.

agreed.

bahnstormer does that mean that in hidsight you might have stayed on your previous ARB had you realised the positive effects of WALK.

Carlsberg (probably)

Yours and genoas WALK review sold me on it, so next I need you to trial the whiteline bumpsteer kit to let me know the benefits:O

OK; if you pay for it for me!

OK; if you pay for it for me!

oh but thats just not cricket:O

Im interested in the bumpsteer kit, but i dont quite understand its use, they believe the mk5 platform suffers from excessive bumpsteer, I just cant say i know what it is or what it feels like.

That bolt has been overtightened past the yield point and snapped.

I think you're assuming its a stretch bolt because VAG give a torque+angle setting.

Stretch bolts have an long unthreaded body ('shank'), usually narrower than the threaded portion, which stretches and acts like a spring in tension when the bolt is torqued up. They are used in applications where a powerful and constant compressive force must be applied to a joint (e.g. cylinder head, main bearings, sometimes subframes).

The fasteners for the rear ARB brackets are really setscrews (as opposed to bolts) and threaded all the way to the head - they are not stretch bolts.

There is no way that bolt should have sheared with 20Nm torque applied. Either the bolt was faulty or the torque wrench was way out of whack, or set wrongly.

You are correct in that ideally these bolts should be replaced after each use, as should the self-locking nut on the drop link lower joint.

Yep agree with all that. The only time Ive come across stretch bolts before is when Ive done work on cylinder heads but that was years ago - and they were like you described.

The thing that surprised me was how easily the bolt snapped whilst I was simply hand tightening before attaching the torque wrench - I assumed it was some new fangled thing. when in fact it was just rubbish/knackered bolts. Ive got 2 torque wrenches and they tighten to very similar amounts , so unless they are both out by similar amounts then I think they are OK. But I'll go check them with a mates wrench - just in case.

And my aplogises to those clearly more knowledgeable in this matter than I.

If Id have read the workshop manual more thoroughly I would have seen that they are listed as screws !

Edited 24 May, 200917 yr by Jules59

Yours and genoas WALK review sold me on it, so next I need you to trial the whiteline bumpsteer kit to let me know the benefits:O

Sy:thumbup:

Seems easier to say than to do: Julian of balanced asked me not to order it, because it was so hard to get... God knows why.:confused:

While suspension "shakes" due to a bump, toe of two front wheels changes differently, so you have a steering effect. AFAIK this kit should work against this effect. Look for example at this description on:

Razors Edge Bumpsteer Kit

Ciao

Seems easier to say than to do: Julian of balanced asked me not to order it, because it was so hard to get... God knows why.:confused:

that is very strange, that doesnt make sense at all, in fact why even put it on the website.

still want it though with all the poly bushes also, then handling complete

Got my bar reset on the 'soft' (about the same as medium on a Whiteline bar) setting this afternoon and initial reaction is that the ride is definitely more compliant and having done a twirl around a few roundabouts any move back towards understeer seems negligible; probably helped by my WALK that really pulls the car into a corner.

So far so good.

I spoke too soon; so far NOT so good.

Having reset my bar to 'soft' I had picked up a noticeable 'cheep' from the rear of the car, when going over short, sharp bumps. It was a noticeable almost metallic 'cheep' and different to the 'squeak' I'd had on previous occasions when the bushes need regreasing on my Neuspeed bar and besides, when resetting the bar to soft I had taken the opportunity to regrease the bushes anyway.

Managed to have a look under the car today and found the culprit - in resetting the bar to 'soft' it changed the angle of the bar due to the length of the droplinks and the bar was now sitting only about 1mm from the lower arm of the rear suspension. This meant that, when going over a sharp bump, the bar would hit the lower suspension arm and 'cheep'! Oops; not very satisfactory.

So; I reset the bar back to 'medium', clearance looks fine and a quick road test proved all quiet, except that I'm now back to a firmer ride than I'd like.:(

Options now? Keep the bar on medium and return to my 17s or find some longer droplinks that will allow me to use the bar on 'soft'. Decisons, decisions!

?????? thats a bit suspect i think. my car is minimum 30mm lower than standard if not more(Ive had some severe issues with grounding on humps) and i have not had any knocking at all.

new drop links will definately sort it though.

I shall endeavour to have a look under mine tommorow and see how many mm mine is from the lower arm.

Incidently, how far off the lower arm is your bar on the medium setting?

Neuspeed rear anti roll bar and neuspeed drop links

this guy had similar noises with neuspeed bar. from mk5 golf forums

?????? thats a bit suspect i think. my car is minimum 30mm lower than standard if not more(Ive had some severe issues with grounding on humps) and i have not had any knocking at all.

Don't forget that 'lowering' reduces the distance between body and suspension as the springs are shorter; it won't affect the relationship between subframe, lower arm and arb.

new drop links will definitely sort it though.

Agreed, but they will have to be longer than the 4" of the OE droplink. Thanks for the link to Neuspeed/Golf V thread; I had found the Neuspeed link on Awesomes' website last night and, apart from the cost :eek:, am not sure about them 'cos if they are the same length as OE then I'll still have the problem.

I've found Whiteline to suitable drop links of variable lengths at around £85 - £95 but it is stated (by Demon Tweeks) that they will increase road noise over OE; understandable as they are direct links with no noise absorbing bushes as on the OE.

I shall endeavour to have a look under mine tommorow and see how many mm mine is from the lower arm.

Incidentally, how far off the lower arm is your bar on the medium setting?

I'll see if I can have a look, but I think we are talking 5mm+

?????? thats a bit suspect i think. my car is minimum 30mm lower than standard if not more(Ive had some severe issues with grounding on humps) and i have not had any knocking at all.

by that i mean its strange that it is so close when you have not got your car lowered. you normally only require the longer drop links when you have really slamed your car. like i said, mine has beeen lowered 30mm+ over vRS standard with my rear bar being on stiff and it is fine.

I had a Whiteline adjustible ARB fitted to my Impreza Turbo which instantly eliminated the understeer. At the time of fitting I also had four wheel alignment. The work was done by Whiteline dealers, Powerstation of Tewkesbury. Although they specialise in Subaru (their premises are adjacent to Litchfield Imports), they have extensive tuning experience and are a very highly regarded company.

Been fiddling under the car this afternoon with some interesting results.

Here is a pic of my APR bar on 'soft' with it being only a mm or two away from the lower suspension arm (note damage);-

and on 'medium' and still pretty close;-

and here is a mod that I have done to effectively lengthen the drop link and have the bar on a medium/soft setting;-

However, having thought about the issue, lengthening the drop link isn't a great idea as it puts the end of the arb closer to the ground. The optimum would, I believe, be for the arb to have a more acute angle between the main section of the bar and the flat end, for example 125 degrees instead of 150 degrees. I'll have to see if I can have a word with APR.