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LowPass filter for Front Speakers

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Hi Guys

Anyone knows if the front bass-speakers in the doors

have at low pass filter somewhere in the wirering between

the radio and speaker.

I saw that the trebble-speakers in the A-beam have a high pass filter built in,

and thinking that the bass-speakers would have one like it for low pass.

I've installed new speakers, but there is no response on the +wire for the bass.

Ground wire is ok when testing with a multimeter. But nothing when

testing if there is conection between the radio and speaker on the +wire.

I moved the original front speakers to the back-doors and dragged new

wires, and it souns like crap. Sounds like they are trying på play full-tone.

So my thought is that there must be at low-pass filter somewhere in the

original front door speaker wirering. or am i wrong??

It's af Fabia Sport 2008, with the Dance radio.

Hope someone has an idea, thanks

Edited by mathiask

Hi Guys

Anyone knows if the front bass-speakers in the doors

have at low pass filter somewhere in the wirering between

the radio and speaker.

I saw that the trebble-speakers in the A-beam have a high pass filter built in,

and thinking that the bass-speakers would have one like it for low pass.

I've installed new speakers, but there is no response on the +wire for the bass.

Ground wire is ok when testing with a multimeter. But nothing when

testing if there is conection between the radio and speaker on the +wire.

I moved the original front speakers to the back-doors and dragged new

wires, and it souns like crap. Sounds like they are trying på play full-tone.

So my thought is that there must be at low-pass filter somewhere in the

original front door speaker wirering. or am i wrong??

It's af Fabia Sport 2008, with the Dance radio.

Hope someone has an idea, thanks

What I'm going to tell you is my assumption - not because I know. Although there's a HPF on the tweeters it doesn't necessarily mean that there's a LPF on the woofer. HPF's are placed in line with tweeters to avoid high voltages (bass) entering the tweeters, since they are more easily damaged than woofers.

However, you can buy a LPF to put in line with the woofer (or build one yourself, using a coil etc - there are formulas you can look up on the web to calculate the values of the coil and so on).

WRT the speaker sounding crappy at the back - it can be one of two things:

(1) acoustics of the back door are crappier than those of the front

or

(2) the rear signal from the radio is different than the front. In this case, to check whether this is true or not, connect the speaker to the front signal when placing it in the rear door and see if the sound is the same or not.

  • Author

The new speakers are a component set, so it came with at HPF/LPF, and

i connected that to the original wirering.

Still there is no connection when i test the +wire from input-end at the radio

to the output-end at the speaker. I was told, that it usualy means that there is a "condensator" (sorry, don't know if this word is correct) which blocks the signal.

I was told, that it usualy means that there is a "condensator" (sorry, don't know if this word is correct) which blocks the signal.

Probably you mean condensor or capacitor.... that blocks a DC signal but lets an AC signal through, depending on its capacitance. In fact that's why they put a condensor/capacitor in series with a tweeter as it lets high frequencies (treble) through and blocks low frequencies (bass). This is because the lower the frequency, the nearer to DC it goes (and therefore the condensor/capacitor blocks it).

Now probably if you're testing the continuity of the wire using a multimeter (and if there's a capacitor connected to let only high frequencies through), the multimeter sends a DC signal and it is blocked by the capacitor. However I can't understand why there would be a HPF on the wire between the radio and the speaker connection in the doors - and did you say that you passed the wire yourself for the rear doors or did you use the existing wiring?

@mathiask - one question since you seem to have pulled out your DANCE radio... do you know if the radio has an RCA output to connect to an amplifier or active subwoofer?

that's what i want to know as well to save me trying to get the headunit out. i know the fabia mark 1's standard stereo has 2 pre outs which you can use with pre out adapters but not sure of the Dance radio.

Why did you move the front to the back. i thought the sport model already has rear speakers.

what size speaker fit in the rear and front and do i need a speaker adapter plate for the rear?

that's what i want to know as well to save me trying to get the headunit out. i know the fabia mark 1's standard stereo has 2 pre outs which you can use with pre out adapters but not sure of the Dance radio.

hiya... after I asked the above question with regards to the pre-outputs I was having a look at the DANCE radio manual that I downloaded from Skoda website itself, and there's a section named "External Amplifier" (I've pasted it below), so I'm assuming that this radio has preamplified outputs, which would solve all my problems of trying to tap the outputs to the speakers and using hi>lo convertors since the latter will reduce sound quality.

This is the extract from the user manual:

20j2pvm.jpg

  • Author

Sorry guys... No RCA pre out...

I put in a MDS XD10 tube, it has a speaker input.

MDS XD10 10" Rør-subwoofer (DA800) billig hos CARSound Bilstereo - Bedre lyd i bilen... (Subwooferrør m. indbygget forstærker og slavebas)

(sorry it's in Danish :o)

You could also use a high/low converter like the one from Audison, I read that

they were one of the best ones.

To reply on an earlier question, I used the existing wireing, I just passed It

through the LPF so from the radio, my front output is connected to the LPF

and then new wires to the HighPass speakers and i patched the LPF back

to the original wireing... I haven't had to much time to test it, but i'll test

again this weekend, and hopefulle find out what i did wrong, or else i'll do

my own wires... ( to patch it back i bought an ISO adaptor and removed the pins

and wires, and used that, so i didn't have to cut my original wires)

I fitted Rainbow 6,5" in the front with adaptors, and moved the 5,25 to the back doors

(there is an original adaptor fitted on these)

Edited by mathiask

  • Author

By the way....

The radio is very simple to remove.

Carefully remove the frame on the edge around the radio with a screewdriver, and it is

fitted with 4 torx screw... :thumbup:

Think it's torx 20.... But not sure about that one... ;)

I thought it had speakers in the back originally too... But no...

Not mine, obviesly...

Edited by mathiask

Thanks for the tips. You said that you moved the original 5.25" front speakers to the back and put 6.5" on the front..do you think 6.5" speakers will fit in the back doors?

how did you remove the front pillars to get to the tweeters in the front? and did you find that the when you pull the 'door pull' inside of the door was tighter than before?

By the way....

The radio is very simple to remove.

Carefully remove the frame on the edge around the radio with a screewdriver, and it is

fitted with 4 torx screw... :thumbup:

Think it's torx 20.... But not sure about that one... ;)

Thanks mate - very useful. My Fabia's still on the way... but that's one of the first things I will look at and enhance in my car... :)

  • Author

>

Thanks for the tips. You said that you moved the original >5.25" front speakers to the back and put 6.5" on the front..do you think 6.5" >speakers will fit in the back doors?

>how did you remove the front pillars to get to the tweeters in the front? and did you >find that the when you pull the 'door pull' inside of the door was tighter than before?

>

With the adaptors for 6,5" i'm sure they will fit nicely.

But i would do some soundproofing in the door.

The front pillars were removed with violence ;-)

It's fitted with about 3 metal clips which are located

in the mid of the pillar.

You can say what you want about Skoda, but all the plastic thingies

will not even fall off if a huricane went through the car...

I don't really know what you mean about the door, but i haven't noticed

any difference...

Edited by mathiask

>

With the adaptors for 6,5" i'm sure they will fit nicely.

But i would do some soundproofing in the door.

that's something i'm considering but i'm not sure i want to do the boot because it will be visible when i sell the car in the future. i want to be able to take all the upgraded speakers out easily when i come to sell the car in the future.
>The front pillars were removed with violence ;-)

It's fitted with about 3 metal clips which are located

in the mid of the pillar.

surely there is a way to remove the front pillars as i can't imagine skoda technicians use viiolence to remove them
>You can say what you want about Skoda, but all the plastic thingies will not even fall off if a huricane went through the car...

I don't really know what you mean about the door, but i haven't noticed

any difference...

i'm talking about the hinged door pull thing to unlock/open the rear door. When you pull it you will hear a thump or clunk which is the sound of the lock being unlocked. I find that this thump is slightly louder and i need slightly more effort to pull the hinged door pull thing.

having heard how difficult it is to remove the front pillars i'm thinking of leaving the standard front speakers alone, but i wonder if spending £150 on front components would make a big difference because the original speakers sound pretty good for factory fitted stuff. i think i might just fit some rear 6.5" speakers

also, do you think all these modifications tot he original stereo, fitting amp, etc. will invalidate the warranty. i've got about 2 years left.

  • Author

All done ! ! ! Almost...

I got them working... Once I started taking it apart, i found some kind

og loose conection for thr right speaker..

And the cable-shoe (connector?) for the left speaker had cut the wire :D

So it was all just plain old slobyness.... :thumbup:

But the radio does not have an ignition output, so i will need to find

12v somewhere else to get the sub turned on when the igition/radio is turned on...

Sounds great.. I actualy think I would have been pleased with just

replacing both front and rear speaker with 6.5"

But I think i'll install the tweeters in the back too, and not just the woofers.

The original tweeters has built in HPF so it should be a piece of cake...

Once i get the door disasembled.

Regarding the front pillars, "violence" did not mean that i took a hammer

and opened a can of woopass... But it took

some work to get the clips to let go. A good pair of gloves does wonders.

About changing only the woofers, I was told that it is best to change both,

because of the cut off frequency or something like that.

With regards to not wanting anything in the trunk (i know the wife-factor), i used a "Speakon"-jack with 8 wire, so i kan quickly unplug the sub, and not have any wires...

Works like a charm...

Thanks for all your reply guys...

Edited by mathiask

  • Author

...also, do you think all these modifications tot he original stereo, fitting amp, etc. will invalidate the warranty. i've got about 2 years left.

I don't know the laws in UK, but here in Denmark, it does not invalidate warranty.

Only if my modification is a direct cause of the faliure, and it is up to the dealer

to prove it.

Sounds great.. I actualy think I would have been pleased with just

replacing both front and rear speaker with 6.5"

I'm still thinking of whether to replace the front speakers or not as they don't sound bad to me. I don't want to replace them with something worse sounding or only very slightly better given all the hassle and cost.

are the speaker cables for rear doors difficult to install, any tips on removing all the neccessary bits of trim would be great? what do i need to remove? i hope you don't have to take off the seats (as there's wiring to mess up for the side airbags) thanks

  • 2 weeks later...

do you know how many ohms are the standard speakers?

do you know how many ohms are the standard speakers?

usually 4ohms - that's the standard for car audio.

usually 4ohms - that's the standard for car audio.

yes, i just want to be safe as some of the 6.5" speakers I am lookin at come in 4 and 2ohms

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