Hey guys, I posted a while back in relation to poor MPG - basically my fuel light illuminates at pretty much bang on 350 miles after brimming the tank which I feel is fairly poor, particularly as someone (I think it was Moggytech) said he gets 480 miles before the warning bong! Some folks on here advised getting the fuel filter changed. I purchased a filter today from an independent motor parts shop. Hoping my MPG might increase a bit once it's fitted.

My 1st question - it is manufactured by ETL - are they any good? I would think a fuel filter is gonna be pretty much the same whoever you buy it off but I might be wrong. It cost me £15 (should have been £15 + VAT but the guy did it a bit cheaper as I was in uniform ).

2nd question - how easy is it to fit? Is there an idiots guide? My knowledge of cars is limited to pretty much topping up the windscreen washer fluid so I'm thinking I might be best taking it to a garage! Or if anyone nearby fancies doing it I'll slip 'em a few beer tokens in return!

Cheers droogies!

Mike

Edited 16 July, 200916 yr by Big Mikey
I'm a punk.

If your fuel filter is faulty the symptoms should be along the line of a miss, like there is air in the line. I personally can't see why the fuel filter would effect economy because all thats going to happen as it gets blocked up is the flow/pressure will change but up to failure/tolerence point the flow will be kept in check by the pump.

Still, it can't hurt to change it.

It's a simple process. Firstly make sure you have the right one, it should have a flat bottom with no drain. (If you have the one with the drain then you will need to remove the plastic holding cage and jury rig some sort of binding to make the new one fit in the now bigger holder, or just go back and get it swapped). Remove the old one by disconnecting the two rubber pipes (It's pretty obvious where they go as they are lablled and moulded to fit), a mole grips is probably the best tool for removing the clips, just move them back onto the hose about an inch. Then remove the third pipe by pulling the clip out and lifting the pipe up. Unclip the filter and remove upwards.

Refitting is the reverse of the removal. I always prefer to fill the new filter with something like Forte cleaner but you dont have to do this and the system will pick up the slack in the new filter so no need for bleeding/priming

Whole job takes about 5 mins

Looking at my Haynes manual it looks fairly easy to fit. Not a massive amount of work to be done at all really, a few clips from what I can gather. I'm due to have mine done in a few weeks but I don't really fancy getting diesel on our drive if I make a mistake, so I might just get a friend to fit it at his garage.

Can't help with the brand I'm afraid though!

Cheers dude, what could be causing the poor economy then? I don't drive it like a tool.

I think you should be changing the air filter if it's done more than 10,000 miles. 5 minute job, and £7 from any decent motor factor. Fuel filter will last for ages as UK diesel has a good cetane rating.

Cheers dude, what could be causing the poor economy then? I don't drive it like a tool.

Air filter could be a cause, get the codes read see what they say.

Cool, thanks guys, air filter is just a case of opening the box, removing old one and sticking new one in I guess? Is it worth getting a K&N one or anything like that or just a boggo £7 one from Halfrauds? Cheers. Mike

If your car isn't mapped, dont bother just get a standard one. It is literally as simple as just opening the box and swapping

Can someone remind me of the interval to change the Diesel filter? Cheers:thumbup:

Can someone remind me of the interval to change the Diesel filter? Cheers:thumbup:

Depends on sulphur content of the diesel. Should be good for 60,000 miles in the UK

Can someone remind me of the interval to change the Diesel filter? Cheers:thumbup:

It's 40k according to the schedule.

Paper air filter costs less from a main dealer than from halfords so that is where I'd go.

The air filters really should be changed ever service (18.5k miles) as a maximum as you notice the effect after about 10k miles.

Hello,

Suggest renew all filters every year, and a oil change.

Take the guessing and wondering shall I, shan't I out of it.

Check-out gearbox/power-steering while your at it, as well.

Save yourself a bomb by DIY and learn more about your vehicle.

I changed brake fluid, cost £3.91 inc.vat for 1 litre, Skoda dealership was going to charge min £35.00 inc vat.

It's these things that eliminate labour cost's without cutting corner's, if money is not an issue, and knowledge of your vehicle is not relevant, disregard all items suggested.

Good-luck. Ian. :thumbup:

I just spoke to the tech at Alex Lawrie Skoda here in Liverpool and he said that the air filter is replaced every 40000 miles! Is this poor or what?! I queried why it wasn't 10000 and he said it's not neceassary! My car has only done 31k so I checked the air box and the screws don't look like they've ever been touched - opened the box and the air filter was clogged up with all kinds of crap - feathers and all kinds of ****! I've brushed it off for now and am gonna change the filter as soon as I can get out to the stealer. It's £13.50 from them or I might just go to a motor parts shop and pick one up a bit cheaper.

If you're going to keep it longer than a year or so, buy a washable panel filter (I got mine from Awesome). It gets washed every 5K. Always lots of nice clean air going in and surprising how dirty the water after washing even at that mileage. Looking at the figures since new it is possible to see the decrease in MPG until the original was changed (anorak!).

So do you think it will really make a difference then? I might look into getting a washable one. The Skoda tech guy (and my dad) seem to think the difference a new filter makes will be negligable if anything at all. I reckon it will make a major difference.