Removing front door trim. So close yet so far!!

[superherojones]

Re: DIY Door Sealing Tutorial - Costs less than £10

I have a problem with my front passengers side electric window so i need to take the trim of to have a look at whats wrong.

The guide using the reference above is brilliant for the taking the bottom section of trim off but i really can't see how to get the whole piece of trim off. Something is still attached/clipped along the top edge along the glass. I have undown the star screw in the door handle area, but the whole piece just won't come off and i am frightened i might brake something by struggling further. The door lever and maybe the central locking pin thing might still be attached.

Any help greatly appreciated. Please!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have done so many searches and your guide is teh best but not complete for my purpose!

Cheers

Tim

[SimonK24]

Have you removed the ones under the plastic pull handle too? Once everythings undone, you 'should' be able to lift the door card from the bottom, and off she pops! Make sure you undo the central locking cable, and the door light fitting too.

If you have followed that guide, everythings there you need to know!

[superherojones]

There is one i have found for the door handle (when you remove the little piece of plastic trim), is there more than one?

I have done the door light fitting.

How do you do the central locking cable , do you have to reach in a feel your way about?

Is it a lift up move, anything to be wary of.

Thanks.

[Hauptmann]

IIRC there are two screws behind the passenger door handle. The door card should pull out an inch or two (to clear the retaining clips) then push it vertically upwards. You will then need to detach the electrical connectors from the door card (depending on model) and the cable from the door handle. The lock/unlock rod stays where it is on the door and the card is lifted vertically so it slides down.

If the windows are not working properly it could well be the 'regulators' - new ones are £38+VAT from ECP (at least that's what I was charged). There is actually a 'knack' to quickly replacing these without removing the whole carrier assembly and all its cables - PM me if you want further info.

Cheers.

[superherojones]

Thanks for the reply.

Its dark now so i will have another go at this in my lunch break tomorrow. So you reckon two screws near the door handle, i'll have a look. Anyone out there have pictures?

All the searches i have down points towards the regulator. I took it to a garage and the man there was very helpful and polite but didn't seem to want any business. He said take the cover of and have a look for your self and then come back if its not DIY'able. Seems a strange thing for a mechanic to say but maybe he saw i wasn't a complete DIY idiot (only a partial one) and didn't want to mess about with it. Still odd.

I'll try and get the door safely off tomorrow and then see if i can make out whats wrong. Anything in particular to look out for, will it be obvious if it is the regulator?

Thanks again.

[SimonK24]

If you are using the tutorial, it is Step 2 - have you done that?

EDIT

There is a step missing in that tutorial for actually removing the door panel, I think I see what you are getting at now!

Next to the chrome interior handle (electric mirror blank), there is a little plastic panel, gently pop this out with a screwdriver, and you will see one more hex screw. I think this is what is stopping you from removing it.

[TriggerFish]

Once you get the outskin off - the bit you see - you still have another skin to remove. I think it's screwed on on the earlier models, but make sure you are willing to do this work as I think it's a lot more complicated than the stage you are at now.

I also agree with Keithys' comment about the screw about the blanking plate.

Out of interest, what is it the window is doing or not doing?

[superherojones]

sleithykeithy- I have found the screw near the crome door handle (electric window blank) so its not that thats stopping me. is it something to do with the window glass itself?

I know about the 'carrier' i hope to un earth and i'm perfectly happy to stop for DIY'ing if it looks too complicated.

The window made a horrible srcaty noise then stopped working, it is stuck in teh up position but teh glass canb be pushed up and down by hand!

The motor will pull it down awkwardly and up a little awkwardly but then faulters. i'm scared to play with it too much for fear of making it worse, at least untill i have teh dam door trim off!

thanks all, stiff confused though.

[TriggerFish]

Sounds a bit like mine (although drivers side). It would move under the motors power, but didn't have enough power to go all the way up (down was fine).

Could get about half way, then had to be pushed by hand. To fix it we got it half way down, then moved it around on its sliders as it was jamming cos it was at the wrong angle. If you can tell the motor is working, could be worth trying - nothing to lose.

We also sprayed the felt effect stuff with furniture polish to lubricate it abit.

[Hauptmann]

I think your regulator mechanism needs replacing - its a very common fault across the VAG range. Not too difficult if you know what your doing, but for the person who rarely does mechanical repairs it could prove difficult. I've done a few and got the 'knack' now - can do it in about 20mins.

[superherojones]

Success, thanks all.

A goold old brave yanl was all that was required at the end.

I have posted a new thread entitled

Electric Window Problem- wire broken?

if anyone wantsd to follow my journey!

Thanks again.

[skomaz]

the yank will have disconnected the plastic cover over the locking mechanism that prevents someone with a wire unlocking the door via the window seal from the outside. It's a bit of a pain to get back on without breaking the actualor clip on the door lock pin - so just be careful on re-assembly.

The wire won;t be broken by the way - it'll be the white plastic runner on the end of the wire. You can;t get them seperately so it's either a new regulator at about £70 from a dealer or a new inner door skin at about £30 from a scrappers and about an hours graft.

Replacement metal (rather than plastci) runners are available for the golf etc. but sorting the regulator wire is too much hassle.