The 18104 is usually caused by a dodgy cruise control stalk from what I've read and I've already had the other stalk replaced. Do you have any links as I'd be interested in seeing what was said to try and find out more.

http://www.volkscity.com/Files/VW%20GOLF%202800%20V6%204MOTION%202.8%20BDE%20Eng.pdf

"18104, P1696, CAN data bus, Steering Column Electronics, Incorrect signal; - Wiring, matching resistor in ECM"

also

Google Translate

18104 incorrect signal from the module can (?) the steering column

1 Fault Found:

18104 - Powertrain Data Bus: Implausible Message from Steering Column Controller

P1696 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

Readiness: 0000 0000

18104 - Powertrain Data Bus: Implausible Message from Steering Column Controller .....

etc etc

I did have the alternator voltage checked and it was showing 13.9-14.2V (At battery terminal) which seems about right to me.

Yep, sounds pretty normal.

I took the old battery out and found the covers for the water and checked all of these. All were fine in terms of water level, but the lead plates were white and hard with some odd almost furry coating around a few bits.

I put it on a charger and the thing went from around 50% to just fully charged inside of 2 minutes.

Unless the battery was already fully charged that was way too quick. Definitely worth doing a proper load test to see how the battery copes.

Something else is that I took the main beam headlight bulbs out and found one of them was 100W the other 55W. Obviously this won't have helped things, but I can't see that it should have caused the whole lot to go mad.

Seeing as a 100W bulb draws nearly twice as much current as a 55W globe I'd be replacing that with a 55W bulbto see if that helps (VAG electronics do often seem to go weird if they get a low voltage supply)

BTW I found that Philips x-treme were the best 55W bulbs for output, but if you want an even better H7 bulb then Osram make a 65W Rallye bulb)

I've picked up some +30% 55W H1 bulbs at £3 a pop and the dipped beams are osram silverstars so should be fine.

I agree that the battery being fully charged in no time is way way too quick and combined with the higher rated main beam might have been an issue.

Anyway, 2*55W bulbs in and the problem is still there, but only when the electric rear and steering were going.

I might go collect a new battery and change it to see what the effect is as it does sound a bit more like it might be this than earlier.

Right well one new 780A 77Ah Bosch battery later and the problem at least seems to have gone away, even with 2*100W mains in and everything one.

Obviously there is the issue that the battery might just be masking things, so I'll give it a while and see how things go.

Hopefully the new battery will fix it, but I still have some doubts - when the engine is running I would have thought that the alternator should have produced sufficient current to run everything at once without any dimming (except when the engine is idling).

As you say, the new (higher capacity) battery may be masking the problems for the time being. Please keep us informed about how it goes after a couple of weeks.

Hopefully the new battery will fix it, but I still have some doubts - when the engine is running I would have thought that the alternator should have produced sufficient current to run everything at once without any dimming (except when the engine is idling).

As you say, the new (higher capacity) battery may be masking the problems for the time being. Please keep us informed about how it goes after a couple of weeks.

I'll certainly update this one as I am wondering if the newer batter just has enough charge to deal with things.

I will also note that the dimming on all lights that one usually sees when manoeuvring in the garage has gone.

The old battery after another inspection did indeed go from about 80% to full in a couple of minutes again and the plates are looking distinctly white like limescale (hard sulphate I'm guessing).

FWIW the car was fine until i left it unused for two weeks, drove it once then left it another week. I have a feeling this may have been the cause as otherwise it's driven daily.

Another thing I'm wondering is maybe the alternator could keep up with 2*55W dipped + 2*55W main, but not 2*55+1 or 2*100W main.

I guess the only way i'll find out is to see what pans out in the next few weeks.

watch those 100w bulbs mate - they do nasty things to plastic lenses........

I've seen the yellowing and cracking that happens with prolonged use.

Edited 7 October, 200916 yr by wardth

watch those 100w bulbs mate - they do nasty things to plastic lenses........

I've seen the yellowing and cracking that happens with prolonged use.

They were only on main beam and not dipped so only had occasional use on dark roads; however the +30% 55W bulbs will be back in tomorrow.

The 100W went back in just to try and see if the flickering happened with them in.

Out of interest, what do you call prolonged use?

A few other oddities seem to have gone with this battery change including most oddly a stutter when pulling away slowly :confused:

The current drain between 2x100w and 2x55W isn't much compared with the alternator output (200W/14v = 14.3A, 110/14 = 7.9A, vs alternator output of 140A). I'd be more concerned with overloading the headlight/switch wiring or too much heat for the plastic components in the headlight itself. Worst case scenario is sitting, not moving with hi beam on on a hot day/night.

It's not a problem, the car now has 55W bulbs back in. The 100W bulbs were just a tester.

Things still appear to behaving as of today, but will find out in a few weeks.

Well things are still behaving so far.

It does seem likely that battery had passed it's best, which is a very poor show at just under 4 years old.

yeah 4 years is not too good really.

"Prolonged use" - I mean used on and off over a period of a year or so. My mate fitted some to his Golf and the lenses yellowed with the heat and UV radiation they generated! Seriously it cost him two lenses at about £275 a pop!

I've just bought the WideView HID kit from HIDS DIRECT. Bought one of the £50 sets and was not impressed with the build quality so sent it back and spent £150 on this one. Arrives tomorrow and will hopefull fit this weekend. Will try and do a photshoot account if I can remember / be arsed.

Ahh right the 100W bulbs I have are UV blockers so should be fine for plastic lamps. The 55w without UV blocking will cause plastic headlights issues too.

Either way I took the safe option and put a pair of 55W H1 UV blocking headlights in there.

The reason I find 4 years irritating, is that while petrol car batteries used to live about 5 or 6 years a derv would make 10. It appears the electronics in modern vehicles really takes it tole on them.

The reason I find 4 years irritating, is that while petrol car batteries used to live about 5 or 6 years a derv would make 10. It appears the electronics in modern vehicles really takes it tole on them.

The real problem is the primitive charge control systems used in cars. If you wanted to change over to the more sophisticated charge control systems used on alternators in some boats and motorhomes which monitor current in, current out, battery temperature as well as battery voltage, and also switch to a controlled voltage "float" when the battery is fully charged, and have an anti-sulphation boost mode as well, then good quality batteries (note the stipulation) could last for 10 years.

Of course you could probably buy 10 or more batteries for the amount it costs for installing one of these complex charge controllers. :thumbdwn:

Well on inspection today it looks like the altenator pully may be sticking a bit.

Could well explain a lot of things, but not why the old battery was dead, then moving up to charged so easily.

Anyone seen the repair docs for the superbs with sticky alternators as it looks like the octy may well have the same issue as the older superb alternators.