Hi,

My first thread and I thought I would tell you about my top tips from my experience of changing front headlamp bulbs on an 2008 Octavia 1.9TDI.

I bought a set of H1 and H7 Extreme brilliance Xenons on a two for one deal at Halfords. I do fully accept that I might have been persuaded to try another brand but opinions and reviews differ on this matter and I felt everyone has to try these things for themselves. Your mileage may differ as the saying goes.

The owners manual begins:

– Pull the locking lever of the headlight as far as the stop in the

direction of arrow .

– Unplug the plug connector and carefully take out the headlight

in the direction of arrow .

Installation takes place in the reverse order.

This is correct and is fine as far as it goes. However, it neglects a couple of points worth recounting here.

Once you get the lamp unit out of it's position the electrical plug connector connection will be a tight fit with the socket on the lamp unit having a lug at the bottom of the socket "locking" the plug and socket together and preventing the plug connector working loose whilst driving.

I found it necessary to pull the headlamp unit out somewhat and turn it upside down to see the lug on the socket. I used a small screw driver to depress it and allow the plug connector to come off.

At this point the headlamp will drop on the floor, crack the lens, break the seals and allow water to ingress over winter destroying the internal reflectors!

Thus, my first tip is to have a soft blanket and pillow on the floor and / or a assistant ready to catch the lamp when the the plug connector flies off the socket on the lamp.

The next issue is paintwork protection. I covered the edge of the wing over the headlamp and the top of the bumper with a strip of electrical tape to prevent the hard plastic and / or wire clamps on the back of the lamp unit from coming into contact with the paint and chipping it.

If the wiring loom is short, and the passenger side on mine was, then extra space can be got by flipping off these wire clamps and then removing them by pulling gently apart and easing them out of the holes the wire end sit in. They go back just fine after the bulbs are changed and retain their springiness.

The large plastic cover shielding the bulbs also drops off at this point. This allowed me to get the passenger side lamp unit out far enough out to turn upside down and give access to the wiring plug connector. This point is where the electrical tape saves your paintwork. Masking tape might also work but I think it thinner and more likely to allow scratches through to the paint.

It seems to me it would be worth replacing the side light bulbs at the same time since they are deep in the lamp unit next to the dipped beam bulb, don't cost much, and I don't fancy doing this more often than necessary.

When changing the main beam bulb there is a large soft rubber cover, on the inside surface of which I found the fingerprints of (presumably) the operative who fitted the bulbs at the factory. Not quite the same as opening Tutankhamen's tomb or gazing on the face of Agamemnon but comforting to see the humanity all the same. Of course it does mean that Skoda workers don't wear gloves whilst assembling Halogen lamps and this might explain any early failures in headlamp bulbs.

On the subject of gloves, latex “surgical” gloves will protect the gloss on the bulbs and give beter grip.

Just before you put the lamps back, take a look through the headlamp hole at the fuel filter casing and take a moment to record the numbers on the casing of the fuel filter.

These will assist in ordering the correct filter. I have read there is a choice of three or four available for these cars and on mine, at least, these numbers are not visible as the casing is turned away from view.

Finally, on returning the lamps to their position and just before pushing them into their locked in position, remove the electrical tape from the bodywork.

Remember to test the lamps before driving. Job done.

On another related issue. Once you have dropped your screw driver behind the space where the head lamp used to be it falls further into the bowels of the car and sits there on top of the engine shield. Unless you have very skinny arms it seems you may have to take the bumper off to get it back!

I recommend a blob of BluTack on the end of a wooden dowel about a foot to 18" long. Feed the dowel into the car and the Blutack catches the screwdriver and you can lift it gently up to where it can be grabbed.

BluTack is also excellent on the end of a screwdriver to stop screws dropping into cars or computers. This is particularly so when screwing upside down and one never seems to have enough hands free.

Incidentally, In Iceland, where I worked for many years, the noun employed universally for blutack type products translates as exactly as “teachers' chewing gum” since it is commonly used by teachers in classrooms as a replacement for the chewing gum that kids use to put up posters.

Anyway, In respect of the Halfords' bulbs, they are tipped with a blue coating on the main beams (H1) and this gives the head lamps a new look. I wasn't expecting that.

As for brightness, we shall see...

Have a look at the hints & tips sticky:

http://briskoda.net/octavia-ii/octavia-ii-help-hint-threads-links/103741/

You'll find there's a link there to a nice 'how to' on the headlights, with photos and a good explanation already from 2007:

http://briskoda.net/general-technical-guides/new-octavia-headlight-bulb-change/69565/

Steve

Alternatively you can fill your boot with John Innes No.1 compost.:dtp:

I think your guide is useful & quite humorous too... so good for you, a great first thread!

As for you Wardy... did you even read it? It was far more than how to change a bulb - leave the guy alone! :P

Thanks for the support - I was just trying to move from Lurking on the board to making a contribution.

Well done you. That's what I like to see, newer members looking to contribute.

Well done you. That's what I like to see, newer members looking to contribute.

+1, not just for the contribution, but also for the attitude of established members here in encouraging newer members to the community

I find the loom is way too short for me to clear the bumper sufficiently particulaly on the passenger side, and i've ended up damaging the paint trying to remove the plug.

I've found the best way (for me) is to put a thin cloth/tea towel between the bumper and the headlight and turn the headlight throughout 90 degrees and leave it sat ontop of the bumper/headlight rack, whilst working on it.

Pull the clips off of the dust cap, take the electrical connector off of the bulb, unclip the bulb and refit in the opposite manner.

Alternatively you can fill your boot with John Innes No.1 compost.:dtp:

Beat me to it...

This sounds far too complicated for my liking. A trip to the dealers it is

Some good information there FriendlyFire.

Hope you don't mind but I've edited the first post in my photo guide (the one that Wardy mentioned) to add a link back to this thread.

http://briskoda.net/general-technical-guides/new-octavia-headlight-bulb-change/69565/

Some good information there FriendlyFire.

Hope you don't mind but I've edited the first post in my photo guide (the one that Wardy mentioned) to add a link back to this thread.

http://briskoda.net/general-technical-guides/new-octavia-headlight-bulb-change/69565/

Not at all - To be honest I read your thread some weeks ago and I found it spot on and very useful. Perhaps I should have acknowledge that myself (please forgive) but I was just hoping to add a little light-heartedness to the subject as well.

[rant] I must say I miss the old days when a man could change a light bulb with a bent spoon and a piece of hairy string not like today when you need to take a day off work to visit a dealer. [/rant]

This sounds far too complicated for my liking. A trip to the dealers it is

What simbo said, really is a piece of cake to do.

Oh good post by the way FriendlyFire

Seriously I found this made me smile........a lot!!

That godforsaken SOB of a connector is a bloody nightmare!!!

oh and what moron put the sidelight in that position - talk about almost impossible to remove!

Still things could be worse - i used to have to get my partner to change the headlight bulbs on my Mk2B Punto - When I first got the car I wanted to fit some uprated bulbs so had a go and thought "nah, something is wrong here" so I went to the dealer and asked "how in gods name do you change a passenger side headlight bulb"?

Answer from a suitably sheepish Service Manager at Tates in Portslade "Ah yes, not the easiest job in the world - you have to remove the fusebox I'm afraid and we charge 1hr labour"

I just stood there with my mouth open - £85 + the cost of the parts for a single bulb to be changed............

The Skud is a positive DREAM compared to this...........still hate that sodding connector though!

I find the loom is way too short for me to clear the bumper sufficiently particulaly on the passenger side, and i've ended up damaging the paint trying to remove the plug.

Same with me.....luckily I got myself a paint repair stick when buying the car. Here in Germany your passengers side is our drivers side (left side when sitting in the car), but the looms are too short here just as well... ;-)

@FriendlyFire

Well done....good job, cheers.

Just fit an aftermarket proper xenon kit with ballasts instead of the tinted bulbs. The light output and spread is far superior to uprated tinted bulbs, and also last for years and years.

No MOT or CANBUS issues either.

I did a bulb job today and took a pic of the removed headlamp. The 'fuse' is only a plastic tab designed to prevent the 'locking lever' unlocking, which it doesn't do very well. The lever, more of a 'pullrod' connects to a locking plate underneath the middle of the headlamp.

The seals around the headlight are a bit sticky (when new) so it doesn't just slide but needs a little coaxing from inside, but not too much cos once free it does slide easily. The connector (1) will come off with a little circular wiggling (I used a folding chair to support the cluster whilst wiggling) then you can close the bonnet and take the whole thing indoors.

The H7 bulb is reasonably accessible but the H1 bulb is relatively down a hole. The connector on the H7 is designed for installation but not bulb changing, There are two spring clips holding the connector (2) but they don't unclip unless held open and there isn't much room to do that inside the chamber. The connector and bulb will unscrew, bayonet-style but you still have the same problem with the spring clips *plus* the bulb is likely to jump off from the force needed to remove the connector.

The spring-clip/bayonet part doesn't really hold the bulb without the connector but it does locate the orienting tag on the bulb flange. If you pass the rear of the bulb into the clip and grip by the bulb connectors you can get both into the reflector and turn to secure, then push the connector back on. Probably easier if using gloves, but I've changed similar bulbs in other cars easier before without.

The H1 bulb is less accessible, further down the hole but the connector (4) comes off reasonably easily, there's no spring clip holding it. Two spring clips (3) hold the bulb in place and look like you'd pinch them together to release. They actually move apart, which is convenient as there isn't really room to get a finger and thumb down the hole and each spring can be released separately with one finger.

I found it easier to remove and replace the H1 bulb by gripping the pointy end of the whole cluster, turned to face the floor, and 'planting' the bulb in the reflector, which does have the locating lug this time, and letting gravity keep the bulb in place whilst relocating the spring clips.

I tried to push the cluster back in without opening the bonnet, but after re-attaching the main connector realised I'd closed the lower securing lever. I managed to wedge the cluster in sufficiently so that I could open the bonnet without the cluster sliding out again.

The cluster went back with a little wiggling and all lit up OK. I'd put the brightness at 50% up from the standard on one cluster, but haven't done the other side so I can compare in darkness.

It took me about 45 minutes but I was being extra careful and not rushing, I would expect 5-10 minutes for the other side. I'd only do an emergency headlight bulb change *after* doing this dry run. I wouldn't recommend doing it for a first time out in the wilds, especially the H7 bulb, which is the most likely to 'need' replacing for urban drivers.

I'd put the brightness at 50% up from the standard on one cluster, but haven't done the other side so I can compare in darkness.

I had a look tonight and the new H7 is about the same brightness as the factory fitted H7. The H1 seems a little brighter but nothing drastic. For a new Octavia probably not worth doing, but MMV for an older model. I'll keep them as-is now and see if they last or age differently.

Thanks for this useful posting.

I did a dipped-light adjusing for European driving and used the PDF manual from 2007, also found on this forum. The tips here in this thread however about taping off the paintwork and having some soft support under the lamps proved ever so useful! It must have saved my paintwork from a few scratches.

The total adjustment on both lights took me 45 mins, taking my time to prepare the job.

Cheers, Manske

Some great tips just bought a56 octavia so will be reading up on this again when that fateful time comes. Thing is as a taxi driver i might have 2 attempt this in the dark armed with a torch and in the middle of sum godforsaken rainswept country lane.Never mind on my previous citroen c5 u had 2 take nearly the whole front end off just 2 change a bloody bulb.

Thing is as a taxi driver i might have 2 attempt this in the dark armed with a torch and in the middle of sum godforsaken rainswept country lane.

Hmmm, might just be worth your while doing a practice run first (in a nice warm, dry, well lit garage), then you'll know what to do and can carry any tools you'll need (head torch, needle nose pliers etc)

I've given up on the "uprated bulb" side of things having fitted Phillips units to my Punto and going through too many blown ones for it to be cost effective and not only that, it was a MAJOR pain in the butt to change them so when the Skud came along with its projector lights I was always going to fit HIDS

I've had a £59 kit from Hids Direct sitting in the garage for the past month because I've just not had time to fit. Came to do battle with that bloody connector on the weekend so opended up the kit and to be honest, I wasn't completelt happy with the quality. Couldn't put my finger on it but decided to send it back and purchase one of their "wideview" kits for £150 which are made in Korea and by all accounts are ver veru high quality. The other reason was I want to ensure all the kit - ballast etc are concealed in the OEM box at the rear of the headlight.

They arrive tomorrow and I hope to fit it on the weekend.....weather permitting! I might even document the install and take lots of pictures............

Some good information there FriendlyFire.

Hope you don't mind but I've edited the first post in my photo guide (the one that Wardy mentioned) to add a link back to this thread.

http://briskoda.net/general-technical-guides/new-octavia-headlight-bulb-change/69565/

has anyone got an updated link ? This one seems to have been removed